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Unread 08-03-2012, 10:08 AM   #16
levergun
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These motors are very reliable but very loud lol. They all tick real bad when cold as mileage increases. Most of them get bad piston slap too. On my parents it got noticeable around 180k. It now has over 210k and still runs fine. Just really loud on a cold new England morning. I would not hesitate to put on in my jeep. They really wake up with headers and a cam to. The noise is just something ya gotta live with. Kinda like the 2.5 where lifter tick is inevitable.

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Unread 08-03-2012, 02:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by levergun View Post
These motors are very reliable but very loud lol. They all tick real bad when cold as mileage increases. Most of them get bad piston slap too. On my parents it got noticeable around 180k. It now has over 210k and still runs fine. Just really loud on a cold new England morning. I would not hesitate to put on in my jeep. They really wake up with headers and a cam to. The noise is just something ya gotta live with. Kinda like the 2.5 where lifter tick is inevitable.
I hear ya. My 2.5 from years ago had lifter tick, drove me insane. I dropped some new lifters in it and never had a problem again.

If this motor does it, ill get a different one. If another one does it than I will pull the heads and replace the cam and lifters. I dont live well with engine noise. But I have awhile before 180k.
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Unread 08-03-2012, 02:06 PM   #18
Why J?
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I am looking to order my shifter. I want to go with a Lokar but not sure what length to get? I would like for the stick to be close to the same height as the current AX15 stick.

16" ?
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Unread 08-03-2012, 10:17 PM   #19
firefighter315
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'Scribed! Looking forward to following along. I plan to do this very swap in the future. I have 220k on my 2000 5.3 and it is still running great. Tranny gives me a little hard shift 2nd to 3rd if its gets really hot, but other than that, still goin' great. I want to do a rebuild on both and drop them in the YJ when I get a new truck in the next few months. The 2.5 is still running great, so I'll be able to take my time on the rebuilds. I know its high mileage and rebuilds aren't cheap, but I've had this drivetrain since it rolled off the line and know the routine maintenance has been flawless and always on time.

If you are using the factory sending unit with the fuel pump assembly, they are notorious for malfunctioning and dropping your fuel gauge to E frequently. I replaced mine and am now getting the same thing after only 2 years. I've just gotten used to refueling by mileage and don't think about it.
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Unread 08-04-2012, 08:47 AM   #20
Why J?
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Well Im completely bummed. I did a compression check this morning and the results are not good.

1) 120
2) 180
3) 210
4) 210
5) 210
6) 70
7) 210
8) 70

I dont like the 120 on # 1 with everything else at or near 210. Im not excited about 210, that tells me there is a lot of carbon build up in the cylinders. 70psi in #'s 6&8 tell me either a bad head gasket or cracked head. I put some oil in 6&7 and the pressure went up to 120.

So the lesson hear is to do a compression check first thing. I have put alot of work, removing broken studs, cleaning, pulling the harness and now I have to start over. Honestly it wasnt something that I expected to happen. I keep hoping maybe I did the compression check wrong but its pretty straight forward. I pulled all the plugs, hooked the starter up to a battery and completed ground. 5 revolutions and then check gauges.

Also I was able to see that the flywheel was bent.
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Unread 08-04-2012, 11:07 AM   #21
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Ok so now Im completely confused. I just went and re did the compression check and got completely different numbers. I guess I was concerned that I am checking compression on a cold engine. So I hooked up the battery and turned over the motor a bit with out the compression guage hooked up just to listen. Nothing abnormal.

Then I put the guage on #6 which was real low. Ran it abit and the pressure steadly rose to 190psi. I thought that was weird so i pulled the guage out and rehooked it backup to #6 and it retested. This time it shot straight to 190psi. checked # 8, which had been low and same deal 170 psi. WTF? I retested 6 & 8 several more times with the same result.

So I rechecked them all.

1)160
2)170
3)210
4)190
5)190
6)190
7)190
8)170

I did notice that the gas coming out of the exhaust port was warmish this time. Could testing cold be screwing it up? I have no ides what to do now, should I just trade it out now for another motor? This motor sat for a year before I got my hands on it, could that have causeed the intakes valves to stick?
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Unread 08-04-2012, 11:55 AM   #22
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So I found this:
From the service manual:

Engine Compression Test

Charge the battery if the battery is not fully charged.
Disable the ignition system.
Disable the fuel injection system.
Remove all the spark plugs.
Block the throttle plate wide open.
Start with the compression gage at zero, and crank the engine through 4 compression strokes, 4 puffs.
Make the compression check for each cylinder. Record the reading.
If a cylinder has low compression, inject approximately 15 ml (1 tablespoon) of engine oil into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole.
Recheck the compression and record the reading.
The minimum compression in any one cylinder should not be less than 70 percent of the highest cylinder. No cylinder should read less than 690 kPa (100 psi). For example, if the highest pressure in any one cylinder is 1035 kPa (150 psi), the lowest allowable pressure for any other cylinder would be 725 kPa (105 psi). (1035 x 70% = 725) (150 x 70% = 105).
Normal -- Compression builds up quickly and evenly to the specified compression for each cylinder.
Piston Rings Leaking -- Compression is low on the first stroke. Compression then builds up with the following strokes but does not reach normal. Compression improves considerably when you add oil.
Valves Leaking -- Compression is low on the first stroke. Compression usually does not build up on the following strokes. Compression does not improve much when you add oil.
If two adjacent cylinders have lower than normal compression and injecting oil into the cylinders does not increase the compression, the cause may be a head gasket leaking between the cylinders.

All cylinders already have oil in them from an hour ago when I last checked compression. Following this procedure I get:
1) 160
2) 170
3) 190
4) 190
5) 190
6) 190
7) 170
8) 170

Which is all very accetable.

So thats where I am at as of right now. I am planning to retest first thing tomorrow morning to get a dry test, then wet again.

i could really use some input here!
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Unread 08-04-2012, 04:58 PM   #23
Why J?
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Ok so I have calmed down a bit. I have been checking the compression several times throughout the day. Everything is still good. I believe what happened was that the motor sat drained of oil for almost a year. I think that the rings were extremely dry and that the lifters were also bleed down. So I think the act of cranking the motor over with the starter and me oiling the upper cylinders it got everything moving again. And honestly I need to do a compression check with the motor warm. So if need be Ill address this at that time if its an issue. I also put some light on the cylinder walls and they still have the honing marks.

My buddy running the yard that I got the motor at tells me not to worry. So I wont. Along with a few folks over at Pirate telling me the same. I aint gonna worry..... much. Unless someone tells me otherwise.
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Unread 08-04-2012, 05:25 PM   #24
ltrail
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if it sat a while its safe to say the piston rings were stuck and it took a little effort to break them loose. No big deal. Also when you comp check I like a little oil on the o ring at the end you are inserting into plug hole. This little bit of lube helps seal and does not let the oring bind and possibly leak some.

I like the direction you are going with this!
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Unread 08-04-2012, 09:51 PM   #25
turpehar
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If you didn't have the intake plate blocked open and the plugs all out, your first result is what I'd expect. Sounds like you stuck with it and figured it out. way to hang with it.

How is the wife?
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Unread 08-04-2012, 11:36 PM   #26
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I had all the plugs out and the throttle at WOT the entire time. I plan to check the compresson one more time in te morning and then let it go.

She is fine. I think. J/K. She has been taking all the pictures and loves that me and the twins have a project to work on together.
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Unread 08-05-2012, 08:50 AM   #27
Why J?
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So I retested this morning. Still a cold compression test for whatever it is worth.

1) 180 2) 170
3) 200 4) 180
5) 190 6) 190
7) 180 8) 180

It looks good. But I still question it so Im not sure what I will do yet. I will be talking with my buddy at the yard first thing Monday and going from there. I really dont want to put everything back on this pig to go exchange it for another motor, but with the money involved and my piece of mind I may.

What to do what to do.
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Unread 08-05-2012, 09:45 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Why J? View Post
and these:


Wow! Those are some of the nicest toes I've seen in a long time!














j/k



nice build.
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Unread 08-05-2012, 04:47 PM   #29
Why J?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockWoRM View Post
Wow! Those are some of the nicest toes I've seen in a long time!

j/k



nice build.
Been waiting for someone to comment on my toes.
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Unread 08-06-2012, 11:52 AM   #30
Why J?
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So this is what I got today!

60,000mile motor straight trade.


looks perfect inside!


I spoke to my buddy this morning and he said bring it back. He didnt want bad motors out there. So I did, didn't want to be questioning it. I have a few other things going today so ill be posting some more later tonight.
.
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