- Front MetalCloak bumper installed.
- Fixed rear tailgate tightness.
- Bought Delrin door bushings.
- Removed stock door bushings.
- Prepared Gen-Right gas tank for install.
- Made the following order with Gen-Right:
LED Recessed Tail Lights
LED Back Up Lights
5pc Black Hood Louver Set
Bumper Plate for Swing Down Tire Carrier
Inner Reinforcement Plate
Outboard rear frame brackets
MetalCloak bumper install:
Got the Gen-Right gas tank in and got all the tubing switched over. I need to wait to do the rear bumper and french in the outboard shock towers before finalizing the gas tank install.
The tailgate was so hard to open / close that it started rippling the sheet metal in the bottom right. When I first bought it, it required a firm push to close... but over the last year, and especially here recently, it had gotten to the point that you had to put some muscle into it. I had a couple thoughts of how I could fix it, but after reading some forums, it looked like there was some success with lubricating the pins using. Most people start off by just trying some PB Blaster... if that doesn't work then move onto PB Blaster + a heat gun to open the pores in the metal.... if that doesn't work, drill two 1/8" holes on each hinge and spray in PB Blaster.... and if that doesn't work, replace the hinges.
Well, I jumped straight to drill two 1/8" holes on each hinge, sprayed in a lot of PB Blaster, and worked the door for a few minutes. It instantly improved and steadily improved even more as I kept going. I finally got it to the point that I didn't see any further improvement and could almost shut the door from a full open position simply by giving it a nudge.
I then applied white lithium grease and worked that in for a few minutes. I could now actually get the door fully closed when it was fully opened by giving it the slight nudge. Amazing!
Here are some vids showing the different steps:
Since I was in maintenance mode, I decided to buy some Delrin door bushings from Black Magic Brakes co-op sales (http://blackmagicbrakes.com/Jeep_Co-Op.php
). While waiting on them to arrive, I went ahead and knocked out the old bushings. What a PITA, but I figured out a way that was pretty good and only took about 15 minutes:
- Use a screw driver and a mallet and knock in the top edges of the metal bushing:
- Once all edges are folded in, use the screw driver and loosen up the edges of the bushing.
- Spray in PB Blaster and then hit a larger flat head screw driver straight down on the middle of where the metal is folded in. It should come out easily (figuratively speaking) and in one piece.
- Final step is to remove the gunk off the top of the hinge:
- You can verify the new Delrin bushing will sit in properly if you can slide a 7/16" bolt into the hole and not catch on anything. It should just drop straight down: