Project No Compromises - Update 01/12/11 - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles
Go Back JeepForum.com > General Jeep Forums > Jeep Builds > Project No Compromises - Update 01/12/11

The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!Don't forget the Jeep Forum discount, 10% off!Ruffstuff's Monster Shock Brackets!

Reply
Unread 06-02-2011, 01:15 PM   #1
Allgood_73
No Compromises
 
Allgood_73's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Nashville, Tennessee
Posts: 724
Project No Compromises - Update 01/12/11

Update 01/12/11

Alright, today I finished with the tummy tuck. Luckily when the engine skid came in, the label was taped on rather then stuck directly to the skid... therefore a little bug and tar remover cleaned it right up:



Got the engine skid and brackets primed and painted:



I originally ordered the rubicon locker pump brackets from UCF, however, after ordering them... I realized that NO ONE that had ordered them had figured out how to properly install them the way UCF meant for them to be installed and no instructions are provided by UCF. I got a message from longbluerubi telling me about a common mod to relocate the pumps to the engine bay, and considering the cost of replacing a pump, I decided to go this route. I figured it would only cost a little bit of money, it will eliminate the hassle of dealing with them every time I pull the skid down, and it will help to get the pumps out of the elements. Here's the link longbluerubi sent to me for the relocation thread:
Click Here

I removed the pumps, but have not had the time to start the actual relocation:




These are the items needed for the relocation (16 guage wire, two sizes of vacuum hoses, waterproof butt connectors, and dielectric grease):


Back to the UCF UHC and LoPro install... here is the LoPro transmission mount being prepped:




I wish I would have read this thread before hand, as I had EVERY issue he had:
Click Here

I had to keep going back and cutting more of the side metal from the stock transmission bracket since it kept hitting the skid plate's crossmember. I also did the next mistake... I did as the instructions stated and cut the exhaust hanger bracket prior to a test fit to see if it was really needed. I talked to Matt @ UCF and he is updating the instructions to have people test fit first prior to cutting, as this is a common issue.



Now that it was cut in half and the exhaust was way too low, it was time to fabricate a fix. I took a 3" wide piece of 1/8" steel and made a longer, adjustable bracket:

__________________

My Build Thread

Wheeling Trips

My Items For Sale

Thank you to all who voted me the July 2011 TJ of the Month AND July 2012 TJ of the Month!!!

Built Not Bought... pshh... how about, Wheeled Not Garaged.

An unbreakable toy is useful for breaking other toys.

Buyers / Sellers To Avoid: sidetracked
Allgood_73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 06-02-2011, 01:15 PM   #2
Allgood_73
No Compromises
 
Allgood_73's Avatar
2004 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Nashville, Tennessee
Posts: 724


My buddy welded the nut onto the other side of the exhaust hanger bracket so that it would be one less thing to deal with:


And finally, the transfer case skid was up:




The engine skid was pretty straight forward... the one part everyone told me was tough was getting a wrench back behind the bracket to hold the nut. Most people have opted to "create" their own tool by bend a open ended wrench. I happened to have a cheapo wrench laying around which was relatively short and was JUST able to fit on both sides (after messing with it for a bit):




Another issue I read about was that the arms would not bend up far enough to reach the skid plate... therefore people were cutting off a piece of the edge in order to allow it to swing up further. DO NOT DO THIS. All you have to do is ensure that the rounded edges are facing the direction that it will be swinging upward, like so:




Since there are no directions, it was slightly confusing which holes to use for mounting the bracket arms to the skid plate. The bottom holes are for if you have a MML, otherwise use the top holes.




The last part is lining up the back end of the engine skid and drilling four 3/8" holes through the transfer case skid (that took a while!). Here you can see the last bolt going in:



Finished product (UCF UHC 1/4" steel, LoPro mount, & Engine Skid with a 1" MML and 1" BL):








After getting the UCF UHC, LoPro, and engine skid installed.... I have the following comments:

1) First of all, this is a phenomenal product and I would definitely buy again. I can't wait to take it out on the trails and it'll boost my wheelin confidence knowing that I wont plow my shovel into a stump (again). That being said, please read the next few comments.

2) As stated before, I wish I would have read this thread before hand, as I had EVERY issue he had:
Click Here

3) I had one other issue in which my transmission mount holes were about 1/16 - 1/8 of an inch off and I was also missing the provided bolts. I called Matt and he apologized and said I could use any 5/16x18x1 bolt. I choose to buy grade 8 bolts and install them... however, afterward, I found this really good idea and write-up about making studs to simply put the skid plate up and hold it with nuts just like the factory plate. Very good idea to improve the LoPro design:
Click Here

3) There are NO instructions included or on the site for the engine skid plate or the rubicon locker pump mount. There are instructions for the LoPro mount on the website. Matt @ UCF said that he is currently writing up the install on the rubicon locker pump mounts and will have it ready soon. However, I still suggest to relocate the pumps since they are not cheap and you can get them out of the elements. Again, here's the link for the mod:
Click Here

4) The noise and vibrations did increase substantially for ME, even with a 1" BL and a 1" MML. I have NOT switched out the rear DS yet for a double cardon / cv... but I did remove it completely. It has eliminated the vibes, but I still have a significant increase in volume.



5) Matt @ UCF did contact me and say that he was going to order thin boxes to put the skids in from now on so that others don't have the UPS label issue.

Please don't take any of my comments as a "bash" to UCF... as I said before, the full protection system is truly awesome and I would buy it all again. The comments are merely suggestions and advise for a better install.

As for the old skid... instead of tossing it, I decided to keep it as a souvenir and place all my vendor's stickers on it.... 8 feet off the ground and hung by a french cleat:




I am now waiting on the rest of my order to come from Clayton... but so far I received my OME steering stabilizer and RE extended rear sway bar links:

__________________

My Build Thread

Wheeling Trips

My Items For Sale

Thank you to all who voted me the July 2011 TJ of the Month AND July 2012 TJ of the Month!!!

Built Not Bought... pshh... how about, Wheeled Not Garaged.

An unbreakable toy is useful for breaking other toys.

Buyers / Sellers To Avoid: sidetracked
Allgood_73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads





Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.