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Unread 11-18-2013, 10:28 AM   #91
clintrivera
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Looks like the genright aluminum corners only save 34 pounds for an extra $230. Thinking about doing steel corners and aluminum front fenders. Thoughts?

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Unread 11-18-2013, 10:34 AM   #92
kyle_craig
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I went with steel corners for this exact reason. For me, the weight savings didn't justify the considerable price difference. It really depends on your priorities and budget.
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Unread 11-18-2013, 11:24 AM   #93
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34 lbs is more to some than it is for others....

I prefer aluminum anywhere it makes sense. It makes great sense on corners.
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Unread 11-18-2013, 11:52 AM   #94
AngryTJ
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I researched aluminum corners for a while and for the cost they didn't impress me. I've seen alum corners bend on rocks then bounce back to shape while the tub underneath didn't.

Granted the added weight might suck but I'm happy with my steel skids and armor
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Unread 11-18-2013, 12:53 PM   #95
dayriesw
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I run the thick steel ucf skid for trans and engine, stock gts til I get to do the savvy alum or mc mixed skid, steel genright sliders, alum tub armor (front - tnt and rear - rokmen), fiberglass hood for weight saving and better distribution of weight (hopefully to add some engine protection when I get to the more hardcore trails. I think we all want to think of our jeeps as hardcore wheelers but the ones that drive on the streets really only wheel up to 10% of the time.

And it is my personal opinion (based on what I have seen on the trail or internet pictures) that steel for front fenders is a bad idea as it transfers the energy from any impact to the weak, vulnerable tub. But then again, it has been used since before I was even in the wheeling world.

I guess it all comes down to what you are building this jeep into.... DD, mall cruiser, sleeper wheeler/DD, DD/weekend wheeler that can drive to the trail and home, hardcore wheeler that can be driven in city, trailer queen that can take a good role, or ultra 4/rock bouncer with license plate.

I feel that mine is a good mix of these: sleeper wheeler/DD, DD/weekend wheeler that can drive to the trail and home.

Edit: This happened this weekend. Watch the front bumper. If he had a stubby bumper, and metal tube fenders that contacted the tree first, what would have happen? I would rather break a fg hood than dent my tub and screw my tube fenders too. I know it may not be your wheeling style but it could happen to anyone.

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Unread 11-18-2013, 12:57 PM   #96
clintrivera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle_craig View Post
I went with steel corners for this exact reason. For me, the weight savings didn't justify the considerable price difference. It really depends on your priorities and budget.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
I researched aluminum corners for a while and for the cost they didn't impress me. I've seen alum corners bend on rocks then bounce back to shape while the tub underneath didn't.

Granted the added weight might suck but I'm happy with my steel skids and armor
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
34 lbs is more to some than it is for others....

I prefer aluminum anywhere it makes sense. It makes great sense on corners.
I'm generally of the opinion that less weight is better. The other side of that coin is that I'm adding close to 1000 pounds with the axle swap, tires, wheels, suspension, etc anyway -what's another 40 pounds?

The other thing is that it's 40 pounds in the back - I would be more concerned with more weight in the front considering the front weigh bias.


Just dropped some more cash on 35 spline 8 on 6.5" custom F450 unit bearings and a alignment bar for the rear dana 60. Cha ching.
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Unread 11-19-2013, 07:24 AM   #97
redrelyt12
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Well this seems like a thread with a lot of good input and learning opportunities for a noob like myself. I'll be hiding in the corner reading updates
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Unread 11-19-2013, 07:36 AM   #98
clintrivera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
I run the thick steel ucf skid for trans and engine, stock gts til I get to do the savvy alum or mc mixed skid, steel genright sliders, alum tub armor (front - tnt and rear - rokmen), fiberglass hood for weight saving and better distribution of weight (hopefully to add some engine protection when I get to the more hardcore trails. I think we all want to think of our jeeps as hardcore wheelers but the ones that drive on the streets really only wheel up to 10% of the time.

And it is my personal opinion (based on what I have seen on the trail or internet pictures) that steel for front fenders is a bad idea as it transfers the energy from any impact to the weak, vulnerable tub. But then again, it has been used since before I was even in the wheeling world.

I guess it all comes down to what you are building this jeep into.... DD, mall cruiser, sleeper wheeler/DD, DD/weekend wheeler that can drive to the trail and home, hardcore wheeler that can be driven in city, trailer queen that can take a good role, or ultra 4/rock bouncer with license plate.

I feel that mine is a good mix of these: sleeper wheeler/DD, DD/weekend wheeler that can drive to the trail and home.

Edit: This happened this weekend. Watch the front bumper. If he had a stubby bumper, and metal tube fenders that contacted the tree first, what would have happen? I would rather break a fg hood than dent my tub and screw my tube fenders too. I know it may not be your wheeling style but it could happen to anyone.

There really isn't a good solution to the front fenders for me. I'll need as much coverage as I can get - so I will probably go with a 6" fender of some sort. I want to keep it low on 40's so It will be highlined and I will need to have the opening moved rearward. That pretty much leaves me with Genright and TNT tube fenders. The Genright comes in AL and the TNT doesn't. The style of wheeling in my area generally doesn't involve pin-ball style tree dodging, but I did hit a few trees with my Rokmen steel tube fenders on my last Jeep and the tub was OK. I'm not sure how much harder of a hit it would take before it would deform the front?

I suppose the AEV highline kit would be another solution but they are discontinuing the fenders so If I were to damage one I would be SOL.

Quote:
Originally Posted by redrelyt12 View Post
Well this seems like a thread with a lot of good input and learning opportunities for a noob like myself. I'll be hiding in the corner reading updates
I'll be hiding in the corner too!
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Unread 11-19-2013, 07:44 AM   #99
redrelyt12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post

I suppose the AEV highline kit would be another solution but they are discontinuing the fenders so If I were to damage one I would be SOL.


It's actually just the flares that they're discontinuing, so you could possibly get replacement fenders. I don't know if they'll continue making the fenders/hood, but I at least know they CAN
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Unread 11-19-2013, 08:25 AM   #100
clintrivera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redrelyt12 View Post
It's actually just the flares that they're discontinuing, so you could possibly get replacement fenders. I don't know if they'll continue making the fenders/hood, but I at least know they CAN
Good to know. I'm not sure the AEV kit brings the fender back far enough and I'm sure the fenders aren't wide enough to cover a 80" track width. I will be interested in the hood though - and they say they will keep making that.
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Unread 11-19-2013, 09:37 AM   #101
dayriesw
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
Good to know. I'm not sure the AEV kit brings the fender back far enough and I'm sure the fenders aren't wide enough to cover a 80" track width. I will be interested in the hood though - and they say they will keep making that.
The only way I would run those aev highlines is if they gave me two sets. One to mount and one to save because I will tear them up.

Do you have any picture of the damaged rokmen fenders and tub by any chance?
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Unread 11-19-2013, 10:08 AM   #102
clintrivera
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dayriesw View Post
The only way I would run those aev highlines is if they gave me two sets. One to mount and one to save because I will tear them up.

Do you have any picture of the damaged rokmen fenders and tub by any chance?
The AEV's are made out of 16 guage, but I agree with you. I don't think it would take much to damage one.

I think if MCE made some sort of highline tube / outer "plastic" fender setup that would work pretty good for mitigating damage to the tub.

The only damage to the rokmen fender was some rubbed off paint. The tub wasn't damaged either. What I was saying is that I don't know how much more it would have taken before it did cause tub damage.
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Unread 11-23-2013, 09:15 AM   #103
clintrivera
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True to the name of this build, this is what I'm thinking about:

Hankook Dynapro MT's 37X12.50X17
Non-high lined tube fenders front
Rear tire in stock location
1.25" body lift with 3-4" suspension

"Reasoning"

I've always wanted to run the Dynapro MT's. They get awesome reviews for the type of terrain I run. They are around $120 cheaper a tire than a 40. Making a 37X12.50 fit an 80" track width will be relatively "easy" compared to a 40 X13.50. Keeping it "legal looking" will be easier without having to go to dumbo ear 6" fenders. I will also still be able to run non-highlined fenders which will save me $750 since I won't have to buy an AEV hood or deal with the headache of raising the fenders and less cutting of the rear of the tub.

I was also thinking of keeping the rear axle where it is for better break-over at the expense of less departure angle. I'm not going to run a spare tire on the back so I don't think it will be too big of an issue, plus I want the option to run gen-right's extended fuel tank in the rear for more range.

To me, this seems to be the more level headed approach to things, and with 35 spline axles front and rear on dana 60's, should be pretty indestructible.
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Unread 11-23-2013, 09:46 AM   #104
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Sounds pretty damn good to me.
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Unread 11-23-2013, 10:29 AM   #105
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X2 I've got the Dynapro MT and I like them pretty well.
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