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Artec Holiday Sale!Bead Lock Wheels! Raceline, Trail Ready, & Trail-GearROCKRIDGE4WD Introduces a NEW Jeep Wrangler JK *led* tail

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Unread 11-01-2013, 11:46 AM   #16
Imped
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Yep, it came stock on some. Mine had one. It took me a whole 3 weeks to realize it was an overlay.....that was a happy day.

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Unread 11-01-2013, 07:42 PM   #17
mncdriver
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In on this! V8 please, please, please....
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Unread 11-01-2013, 10:13 PM   #18
clintrivera
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Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Yep, it came stock on some. Mine had one. It took me a whole 3 weeks to realize it was an overlay.....that was a happy day.
I can't believe that's stock. It's horrible. Unfortunately, it rubbed some of the paint below it off so I'll probably just paint the whole thing black.
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Originally Posted by mncdriver View Post
In on this! V8 please, please, please....
I think this is the direction I'm going to take. I really, really liked the V8 in the Beast, and I would rather have an automatic for more "extreme" wheeling.

I'm tossing around the idea of doing a 4" suspension lift, 1.25"body lift, 37" tires and non-highline tube fenders. I think this will be a good all around solution without getting massively out of hand build wise.
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Unread 11-01-2013, 10:22 PM   #19
gst95dsm
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Just my opinion after following your last build, the sale, and then the purchase of the Cherokee. Why not make this really nice TJ a great all a rounder? Build it the absolute best it can be for 35's considering multiple categories (not just ability to concur the hardest obstacles). Something you can drive cross country, and wheel anywhere in the country with confidence. If your just going to chop it up, I don't see why you would start with a perfect (expensive) LJ. I know you'll do quality work but I still don't see how the end result will be much different than your last TJ. It's your money, your TJ, obviously you'll do what you want, but from an outsider looking in..... respectfully, those were my thoughts.
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Unread 11-01-2013, 10:52 PM   #20
clintrivera
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Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Just my opinion after following your last build, the sale, and then the purchase of the Cherokee. Why not make this really nice TJ a great all a rounder? Build it the absolute best it can be for 35's considering multiple categories (not just ability to concur the hardest obstacles). Something you can drive cross country, and wheel anywhere in the country with confidence. If your just going to chop it up, I don't see why you would start with a perfect (expensive) LJ. I know you'll do quality work but I still don't see how the end result will be much different than your last TJ. It's your money, your TJ, obviously you'll do what you want, but from an outsider looking in..... respectfully, those were my thoughts.
Trust me, that's certainly a strong voice in my head. I could have this thing on 35's, locked, and ready to wheel in no time flat. Would I be happy with it? Probably. Would I always be looking at it wondering what it would look like on X tire and X lift? Maybe.

Although, for me to make it reliable, I would want something more substantial than a D30 up front. That's the issue with the TJ's and LJ's. There isn't a very good, economical, upgrade path for the front axle. Plenty of options for the rear. After bending a housing and snapping an axle shaft on 32's in sand, I'm not to excised about pushing a D30 with35's. A D44 isn't much of an upgrade, so the next logical move would be to a D60. A D60 with anything less than a 37" tire is a serious rock magnet, so that's where I am with that.

Except for enlarging the rear wheel wells a little and removing the control arm mounts, I won't be cutting too much on this rig.

I know it sounds silly, but I like to have a nice interior, with carpet, good looking door panels, something that hasn't been beaten, hacked, or otherwise. I think that was one of my issues with the Beast. Every time I got in it all I saw were the flaws and things I needed to do.

I certainly appreciate the feedback though, and I may go the direction you are talking about.

After all, this is project indecision.
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Unread 11-01-2013, 11:13 PM   #21
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You're familiar with JK 44's.....

Can be built very strong and retain some nice clearance, give you great steering and brakes, and set you up at the perfect width.

It's the 'middle ground X factor.'
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Unread 11-01-2013, 11:53 PM   #22
clintrivera
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You're familiar with JK 44's.....

Can be built very strong and retain some nice clearance, give you great steering and brakes, and set you up at the perfect width.

It's the 'middle ground X factor.'
The only reason I didn't list them is that they go for a ton of money. If I could get a housing with knuckles, bearings, and brakes, that would be ideal. I wouldn't want to keep the factory E-locker, the gearing would need to be changed, and I would want alloy shafts.

I pounded the front JK D30 on the beast pretty hard on 37's with my V8 and it didn't complain, although it wasn't locked and. I would like to have a higher thresh hold for breakage on this build.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 04:54 PM   #23
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I ran a HP30 and a Superior Axle Super35 on 35's. I never had an issue. The axles never failed me. That setup worked great and with the AW4 swap it was a pleasure to drive on the highway.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 06:53 PM   #24
clintrivera
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I ran a HP30 and a Superior Axle Super35 on 35's. I never had an issue. The axles never failed me. That setup worked great and with the AW4 swap it was a pleasure to drive on the highway.
Was the 30 locked? I'm afraid that a locked 30 on 35's would be at the limit of reliability. I'm generally a careful wheeler, but it's fun to get on the throttle and make a mess every once in a while and I don't want to grit my teeth wondering if the front axle is going to stay together.

This is another scenario I was kicking around in my head

Front axle:

78-79 F250 HPD44 or 76-77 F150HPD44 narrowed with Rubicon inner shafts for 62" WMS, alloy outers, HD U joints of some sort
Reid Racing Ford knucles and passenger side high steer arm for the drag link.
Jana 54 kit with 4.88 or 5.13 gears
ARB
Poly ball joints
truss

Rear axle:

Explorer 8.8
Ultimate 8.8 kit (for width and to match front 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern)
ARB
Artec Truss
4.88 or 5.13 gears

15" Trail Ready or Raceline beadlocks
35" tires

4" short arm lift (Savvy / Currie or MC ala carte)

Belly up

Etc.

That should be reasonably affordable, be able to run "cheap" 35" tires and be able to take quite a bit of punishment without a high-line or other tricks. Also give me relatively lightweight axle assemblies with good ground clearance. Also, save time by going with a bolt on suspension kit.

I know some were saying the Currie 4" kit with Fox shocks was the best riding kit they ever experienced. If it is really that good, I see no reason to spend another 40+ hours reinventing the wheel - and I'm not looking for 48" of suspension travel.

Project indecision indeed.

I sold the WJ today, so I have funds depending on what I want to do. He also didn't want the winch, so I still have my EPI9.0 with synthetic line.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:33 PM   #25
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I had a true trac in the front. Tack welded u joint caps. I have a buddy that runs a TJ 44 in the rear and a Currie 44 with stock outters in the front. Has 10 years of wheeling and annual MOAB trips. Also runs 35's.

I think by the time you get a 44 built for the front you should have just went one tons at that point.

If this jeep is going to be a no frills wheeler do what I'm doing and go one step beyond what you think you need. Take the time and do one project at a time. If you get frustrated just walk away and come back to it in a month. This has been the only project I have done in the past 20 years that I haven't got fed up with because of that reason.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 07:52 PM   #26
clintrivera
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Originally Posted by jforse View Post
I had a true trac in the front. Tack welded u joint caps. I have a buddy that runs a TJ 44 in the rear and a Currie 44 with stock outters in the front. Has 10 years of wheeling and annual MOAB trips. Also runs 35's.

I think by the time you get a 44 built for the front you should have just went one tons at that point.

If this jeep is going to be a no frills wheeler do what I'm doing and go one step beyond what you think you need. Take the time and do one project at a time. If you get frustrated just walk away and come back to it in a month. This has been the only project I have done in the past 20 years that I haven't got fed up with because of that reason.
Hmm...

To throw another wrench in the mix, a TJ LPD30 with an E locker, 4.56's and yukon's just showed up on the radar for $1200.....

Decisions, decisions.....
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Unread 11-02-2013, 08:05 PM   #27
jforse
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Originally Posted by clintrivera View Post
Hmm...

To throw another wrench in the mix, a TJ LPD30 with an E locker, 4.56's and yukon's just showed up on the radar for $1200.....

Decisions, decisions.....

It worked. I wheeled it and it got me home.



Buddies jeep with HP44 Currie and the TJ44. On 33's in this picture.
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Unread 11-02-2013, 11:06 PM   #28
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Sorry I just skimmed but saw the question of D30 / 35"tire experience.... you see how much I wheel and I don't worry a bit about it on my 35's, for what it's worth. Locked, 4.88, Yukon Chromos.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 07:52 PM   #29
clintrivera
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Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Sorry I just skimmed but saw the question of D30 / 35"tire experience.... you see how much I wheel and I don't worry a bit about it on my 35's, for what it's worth. Locked, 4.88, Yukon Chromos.
The thing is, from the videos I watch of you wheeling - I see a very controlled, smooth, finesse based driving style. That's totally fine and usually how I drive. Sometimes though, it's fun just to plant the throttle to the floor and bounce around stuff. I'm not sure your setup would survive that type of driving for long especially with a 4.0 or a V8 swap.

I did make my first purchase for the project though, and as everyone knows, one part can dictate the direction of a lot of other parts.



Picked it up for $500. Only 42K on it and comes with both a 1330 yoke and the standard rubicon yoke. This is the cheapest I've ever seen one so I had to grab it. With that said, the 5.3 swap is going on the back burner and most likely part of a 2.0 build unless I start hating the 6 speed.
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Unread 11-03-2013, 11:57 PM   #30
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If you like to push the skinny pedal at all, I would pass on a 30 and a 44. The older 44's run the same u-joints as the later model 30's. Before I swapped my 60's in, the only problems I had with my 30 on 35's was the u-joints. I broke them all the time. which in turn would take out the shaft. and the ball joints once. if you can search around and find the right 60, you can swap it in for not much more than it will cost you to polish a turd. and i'm sure you can do it cheaper than a JK 44...which has issues of its own. The housing is not up to snuff unless you sleeve it and gusset it and truss it. then guess what, you are even more than a 60.

Here is a little motivation for you. This is my dad's jeep. He has the same basic set up as mine, but it is more of a sleeper since he doesn't have tube fenders...it is a '98. 4.0L, ax15 blah blah blah. Up front is a 91 King Pin 60. Full width. It is 81" tire bulge to tire bulge. Not bad. He is running h2 wheels though. They are 5.5" of backspacing on a 9" wide wheel. He is running 4" springs...or so. His Jeep is less than an inch taller than mine on 3"-ish springs.



I would avoid narrowing a front 60, unless you narrow it to use another factory length shaft. If you break a custom shaft, it is a real pain to have to wait for several weeks to get a replacement...Also, if you are worried about width that much, I'm pretty sure you can get TR beadlocks in a 6" backspace and probably walker evans too. I'm not sure about racelines though. I know they have 4.75 on their website. I don't know if they would custom machine any though. anyway. that's my $.02. I built my Jeep on 35's and an 8.8 and 30. it wasn't long before i was breaking something every trip. since i did the tons, i haven't broken anything (knock on wood)...and I have gotten a lot heavier foot too.
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