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Unread 11-26-2013, 09:43 AM   #76
Randonexplosion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog312 View Post
When you work late into the night and have to be up early, there is a tendency to leave tools out of place, and generally the place gets filthy with cigarette butts and empty bottles and cans.
Oh man I know how that goes. It looks like there was a party in the garage

And I agree with Grant. I like my square headlights and the look of a YJ, but if you want a CJ or TJ grill then go for it.

One day I'd like to see a YJ grill on a TJ...

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Unread 11-26-2013, 10:54 AM   #77
warthog312
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My issue is mostly that I love both haha.

I know it's foolish, but my biggest influence right now is the fenders that I so crave, the Poison Spyder DeFender 3" taper steel fenders. I'm in love with them, but they don't make them for CJs. I talked to Rick over at PSC and he said I could get a set of YJ ones and hack and weld them to fit the CJ, but I don't know if 1) it would look like crap, and 2) I would have a hard time hacking into brand new fenders that cost nearly $600.

It's stupid of me to allow something like fenders make a decision like this, but it does bear some weight in it all. We'll see. If I can snag a CJ hood and Grille on Craigslist for under $200 then I'll go that route. As it is, I need a hood (CJ or YJ, I don't have either) and I need to fab up some inner-fenders, because mine were stolen (yeah, for real) when I left them in the driveway overnight and a scrap truck guy must have thought they were fair game. Ah, the joys of life in the big city, haha.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 10:10 AM   #78
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Got some more work done. Focusing on electrical and wiring these days.

Got the battery and tray in, along with the fuse box and started wiring off of that.


Got the starter in and partially wired. Ford uses two starter solenoids, one on the starter motor itself, one upstream mounted on the firewall (or wherever I choose).






I did hit one snag though, and I'm not too sure what I'm going to do about it yet. The TPS on the motor isn't compatible with the engine managment harness. I've talked to everyone at all my usual auto parts stores (NAPA, Lee, AZ, O'Riely) and nobody has an answer for me. They even let me scour the shelves in the stockroom (I've been a regular for years, they all know me on a first name basis so they let me back there without a problem) and I couldn't find an answer. Here's what the deal is:

New TPS is 3 pin symmetrical female


Harness is 3 pin aesymmetrical female



Obviously, they aren't going to connect. I've cross-refrenced all different years and models of 302 Ford motors and TPS units and I can not for anything find a TPS to fit what I'm in need of. I've scoured the Ford wiring diagrams and I'm 1000% sure that is the TPS reciever on the harness, furthermore, there isn't another connector on the harness that would accept that plug on the new TPS unit. I'm stumped.




After my brain was fed up with wires and schematics, I decided to begin the next worst task on the list.... removing all the herculiner from the outside of the tub. I really don't wish this on anyone. A flap wheel burns up too quick, a wire wheel melts the herc and sends hot particulate EVERYWHERE, a sander gumms up too quick with the rubber and is rendered useless.... so, here i am with a huge pack of razor blades and a scraper. I'm going to go to Home Depot and pick up some Aircraft Aluminum Stripper, I've read that it softens it up a little. Brake fluid also works, but can seep into the metal itself, rendering any future paint adhesion problems. I really don't want to deal with that.

For refrence, this took about an hour.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 12:34 PM   #79
axxxgijoexxxa
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Just checked my 91 cougar 5.0 its three pins in a row (tps), sorry no help.
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Unread 12-02-2013, 02:47 PM   #80
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Just checked my 91 cougar 5.0 its three pins in a row (tps), sorry no help.
Damn, thanks for taking the time to check for me. This is why I love JF
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Unread 12-02-2013, 09:21 PM   #81
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Well, I can officially say the Jeep has cost me a girlfriend....... such is life.


What's a newly single man to do? Get a stripper of course!






The only way to get the woman off my mind (being that I'm not a drinking man) is to spend some one on one quality time with my true love, the one that keeps breaking my heart time and time again, the one I've sacrificed so much for, the one whom I've spent thousands of dollars on, and been in love with since first sight... my Jeep

Went out to the garage after picking up that stripper at the hardware store (please don't use that out of context), threw the Bulls game on the radio and got to work on that stubborn herculiner.

The chemical stripper works great! CAUTION!!! USE GLOVES!!! This stuff burns like crazy if even the tiniest drop gets on your skin. Seriously, it feels like that searing flesh sensation of a spatter of weld landing on you, but keeps burning until you wash it off. Nasty stuff, but works like a gem! I applied it in 2 coats, 10 minutes apart, then waited 15 more just to be sure. The herc came off in huge strips with a razor blade on a handle, and it even took the paint with it in a lot of places down to the bare steel Luckily for me, the whole rig is getting a fresh coat, so I didn't mind one bit

Remember that small square that took me well over an hour and still had a bunch left? This (below pic) took me a whopping 15 minutes!


Seriously, this stuff is amazing. Just don't get it on your skin, or in your hair, or on your clothes, or on your tires, or generally near anything you care about in this world


Doing all this early body work makes me grimace left and right at the fate met of any vehicles whom reside in the northern united states.

Southerners, westerners, and desert people; get on your knees tonight and pray to Jesus, Buddha, Mohammed, Vishnu, Burt Reynolds, or even Satan himself, whomever you pray to, and give thanks that you don't have rust to deal with.

Rear corner, passenger side.


Door opening, passenger side.


Antenna mount.


Drivers side, entry.




Seriously, this is awful. I've already spent weeks and weeks repairing frame rot, now begins the body work. I picked up a bunch of contour match patch panels from autorust and I'm going to cut my teeth on body skin welding and bondo in the upcoming weeks. I am going to keep bouncing back and forth from engine work to body work to bumper and cage fabrication to keep myself from going insane on this whole project.

Side note: anyone have a set of crappy old front fenders they want to get rid of on the cheap? I just need the inners....


As always, thanks for reading, more updates to come. I'm sure I'll be in the garage substantially more now that I'm living the single life again.
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Unread 12-04-2013, 09:53 AM   #82
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Yesterday while at work I reached out to the JeepForum community in a moment of need, and as always you guys delivered in spades. I was able to get a near perfect hood for the Jeep from Craigslist for $20.00!


Thread, in case anyone was curious: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/n...r-out-1852570/


I'm amazed every time I put another big piece of the puzzle together with the project and take a step back I think, "Wow, I totally forgot this was a vehicle, and not just a frame and some tires!"

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Unread 12-05-2013, 08:21 AM   #83
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Last night I spent some time stripping the rest of the exterior herculiner. That chemical stripper makes a HUGE difference in how easily it comes off. I found that if I paint it on, let it sit for about 15 minutes, apply another coat, wait another 15 minutes, something as simple as a grill brush not only takes the herc off, but takes the paint and primer with it! All the way down to bare steel!
Past that, I sealed up the transmission and transfer case PTOs and inspection plates with respective gaskets and RTV, so those are ready for fluid now. Got the TPS issue resolved too, kind of complicated to explain, but enough time over a wiring diagram and some googleing proved to be the solution.
In the end, I bolted the hood down just for looks, and started measuring how I'm going to bring the grille mount up to meet the bottom of the grille. I just need to raise that perch which it bolts to off the front crossmember because of my Genright 1" body mount lift reposition.
It was a pretty relaxing night in the garage, and probably the last one that I won't be freezing to death. It was about 50* last night because of some freak warm streak, but overnight a cold front moved in, and it looks like tonight the low is 11*.... lame. I love winter, I love snow, I love cold temps; really, I do. But when I'm working in an unheated 3 car garage it gets reeeeeally cold and then I'm fighting things like curing time on paints and adhesives, blue fingers that won't do what I tell them to, and a general lack of focus on the project at hand because I'm shivering. Oh well, 'tis the season, right?

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Unread 12-06-2013, 09:11 AM   #84
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One more little piece of the puzzle resolved. Ford small blocks use this kind of hard line/pipe, almost looks like giant fuel rail, that runs on the inside of the valvecovers, along side of the fuel rails, under the upper intake manifold for a coolant line to the heater core. The design is kind of dumb IMHO, it's a big 1/2" ID hard line that pipe threads into the front of the intake manifold and then runs all the way back past the back of the heads where it feeds soft line into the heatercore, then a return line in the same way. Presumably they did this because of it running in close proxcimity to the injectors they didn't want soft line to rot out and leak all over anything. Problem was that my engine is 1/2" or less from the heads to the firewall, so there's no clearance for these rails and they dead head into the firewall (talk about close tolerances with engine placement, sheesh). I couldn't really cut it short because of the return line and the barb on the end to hold the line, as well as the fitting for the coolant temp sensor.... so, off to Home Depot it was to sit and stare at a giant wall of brass NPT fittings, haha.
Took a little bit of head scratching, but I got it figured out. Picked up the appropriate fittings and got them all worked together, then tossed it into my intake which was a TOTAL PAIN IN THE REAR, because in order to get it in I had to pull the first two fuel injectors and the distributor. Not cool.
The idea is that instead of running the hard line in the lifter valley, I'm running soft line straight from the bung to inner fender, then back to the heatercore inlet on the firewall.

Ford factory design:


My hack:


And we're in:




Time will tell how this holds up.

On another note, sub-20* temps in an unheated garage extra suck. I've got an old kerosene torpedo but it's almost not worth it because it's a 3 car garage so it has to run on full blast and my throat and eyes are burning like fire the entire time from the fumes. Oh well, c'est la vie.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 09:31 AM   #85
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Oh man I feel ya. Maybe not as cold as you but we had a high of a whopping 11F the other day. It's too cold to snow. Good luck with the body work! It's coming along nicely.
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Unread 12-07-2013, 10:32 AM   #86
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Originally Posted by boatsandhose View Post
Oh man I feel ya. Maybe not as cold as you but we had a high of a whopping 11F the other day. It's too cold to snow. Good luck with the body work! It's coming along nicely.
Yup, left the garage last night about half past midnight and it was a balmy 8*

I can't for the life of me figure out how to upload video, but we got the starter motor all wired up, and jumping the leads yielded the motor turning over as it should under the power of the starter. Feels good to see it move and hear it make some noise, even if it isn't running yet per-se.

After that it was more wiring nightmares. The Ford alternator powers the Ford body harness, which in turn powers the Ford PCM, which then communicates with the Ford engine managment harness..... sooooo I need to figure out how to make a ford alternator simultaneously power a Jeep body harness AND a Ford engine harness, while one takes control of body function and the other only manages powertrain control....

Then hit another snag, the seering. The ENORMOUS Ford PS pump and res was in the way of the steering shaft on its way down to the box. The solution was a combination of ideas: grind down the shielding on the side of the pump about 1/2" (it is obnoxiously thinck) and make a custom bracket in place of the cast piece which holds the box to the frame, which allows me to set it closer to the frame itself, allowing just about 1/2" overall clearance between the shaft and the PSP. Not pretty, but it'll have to work. This is all still in the works, I just got a mockup started last night because, well, after 4 hours in a frigid cold garage, sometimes you just want to go home and go to bed.


Updates to come, as well as pics of the final steering setup I settle on. Again, thanks for tuning in
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Unread 12-09-2013, 10:27 AM   #87
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Here's a few questions that hopefully someone will be able to answer.

The Battery powers the Harness, which needs to communicate with the Ford harness. BOTH the Jeep and the Ford harnesses will need to read that there is good oil pressure, temperature, etc. to properly run. How do I get the OK signal to communicate to both computers at the same time??

Furthermore, I will be using the Jeep computer and body harness for things like lights, interior, turn signals, ignition, etc. but to get power from the main box to the Jeep harness it needs to also go through the Ford harness...? Maybe?

Last one; fuel pressure and fuel pump relays.... halp. Jeep needs to give ignition power to the relay but the Ford AND Jeep computers BOTH need to know there is active fuel and pressure.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 09:22 AM   #88
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Nothing significant to update, but last night I just kept chugging along on the electrical stuff.
For anyone in doubt of my commitment to this rig and my severe disregard for my own well being in an effort to finish this beast, here's a picture of the temp gauge in my car when I left the garage last night. Reminder: the garage is NOT HEATED OR INSULATED.



Wind chill was somewhere around -15*, real nice when I have to go outside to take a leak
Also, I'm cripplingly addicted to satelite radio since I bought this new car in July. I can't live without it haha. Good thing I have a free 2 year subscription from GM!
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Unread 12-12-2013, 10:00 AM   #89
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Originally Posted by warthog312 View Post
Nothing significant to update, but last night I just kept chugging along on the electrical stuff.
For anyone in doubt of my commitment to this rig and my severe disregard for my own well being in an effort to finish this beast, here's a picture of the temp gauge in my car when I left the garage last night. Reminder: the garage is NOT HEATED OR INSULATED.

Wind chill was somewhere around -15*, real nice when I have to go outside to take a leak
Also, I'm cripplingly addicted to satelite radio since I bought this new car in July. I can't live without it haha. Good thing I have a free 2 year subscription from GM!
How's the electrical coming along? I have been avoiding even thinking about it for mine. I haven't had much progress on mine in general lately...some other things came along to tie up my time and money. Im waiting for a new seal from AA and then I can put everything back together and get the 302 in my jeep. Then I get to fun part of doing the electrical on mine. I don't know where to begin with that!

I give you credit working in the garage when its been so cold. Mine has a heater in it so I have no excuses!
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Unread 12-12-2013, 10:47 AM   #90
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Originally Posted by uhohthe50 View Post
How's the electrical coming along? I have been avoiding even thinking about it for mine. I haven't had much progress on mine in general lately...some other things came along to tie up my time and money. Im waiting for a new seal from AA and then I can put everything back together and get the 302 in my jeep. Then I get to fun part of doing the electrical on mine. I don't know where to begin with that!

I give you credit working in the garage when its been so cold. Mine has a heater in it so I have no excuses!

Here's some basic advice as far as electrical:

Lay out the harness on the floor and spread it all out. Use your wiring diagrams and schematics to figure out what each and every single connector is and does. Label them. Do one harness at a time and have a second set of eyes with you, mislabeling something costs a lot of time and headaches later down the road. Ask me how I know.
Label the Jeep and Ford harnesses with different color tape. I used green painters tape for the Jeep, and orange painters tape for the Ford. This way when there's a thosand connectors flying around the engine bay, you can kind of visually get a snapshot of where everything is falling in place.
As you're going through the harnesses clip off things you aren't going to use and yank that from the main harness (air conditioning, smog pump, etc). Size matters here, the smaller and more flexible the large looms are without all the unnecessary wires, the easier it is to route them around the engine bay.
Start with partial harnesses that connect to larger bulkheads. For example; start with the fuel injectors, tps, egr, and coolant temp sensors, these are all found on the same smaller harness that connects into a larger one. Keep doing this for all the smaller independant systems until they are done and ready to plug into the main.
Don't even begin wiring until every bolt on the top end is in, gasketed, and torqued to spec. The last thing you want to do is have to pull your upper intake maniold after there's miles of wires in the way.
After the engine is done as far as you can go, get to work on the chassis harness. Get all the basic wiring done and all the connectors in and set before you touch a pair of wire strippers. When you're absolutely positive that there is nothing else you can do without hacking in, only then begin to make things like the alternator tie into the body harness. I'm still working on this myself, because I'm thinking I'll have to use an inline fuse and possibly resistors to feed the correct voltage to the Jeep body harness which in turn feeds power to and communicates with the Ford engine harness. This is the point where things get really sticky and your brain begins to sizzle like bacon in a pan. Math hurts.

Most important:: USE THE CORRECT TOOLS AND SUPPLIES. GET PROPER WIRE STRIPPERS, SOLDER, HEAT SHRINK WRAP, A MULTIMETER, AND USE DIALECTRIC GREASE ON EVERY CONNECTOR. Seriously, don't half-a** this. You'll pay for it later. I personally am making my own schematic on draftboard paper so that I have detailed records of what goes where and does what, complete with wire color, resistors, voltage, etc. This is so much better down the line when I want to service or change something and I'm not chasing through my previous work and a bung of factory manuals, scratching my head and wondering "what the hell was I thinking when I ran these wires like this?"



Good luck. Catch up so that we can help eachother
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