Come children and gather round for the story of UPDATES as told by a man who took a "sick day" to work on his Jeep....
First, we got the tub back on the frame. Sitting pretty on those new raised body mount points from GenRight, and the Daystart 1" poly body bushings.
Saftery first kids.
Got the new gear up in the air and swinging, ready for the initial placement.
Then slid it in all gentile and smooth like Casanova.
Setting powertrain and driveline angle was a total PITA.
Turn em' and burn 'em!
Went ahead and placed it in. Still working out a trans mount, waiting on the bushing set I ordered online for the transmission because their height has a say in where I land up burning in the trans crosmember on the frame. They should be here any day now. Right now I've got a few jackstands under the trans and transfer case holding up the rear end of the powertrain.
Unfortnate notes to add: Once the engine was positioned and settled, I started putting the top end together for good. Cleaned the sh*t out of the heads and prepped them, got them installed and properly torqued per spec with new head gaskets. Then, went to put in the new pushrods and re-torque all the rocker arms. No problem.... right? Wrong! In the lamest moment of my day, I snapped TWO freakin rocker arm studs, IN THE HEAD!! Fortuitously, by the grace of the Gods both broke with enough meat sticking out of the head to get a pair of channel locks on and work them out. No damage done. At first I thought that maybe because of something I did, but everything ckecked out. The spec is 17-23 ft/lbs per bolt, and I broke them far shy of the 20 I had the torque wrench set at. After a lot of head scratching, I decided to just err on the size of caution and order up a brand new set and do it fresh. It's honeslt just not worth the risk in my mind. Imagine what would happen if that broke as I was offroad..... barf; bye-bye valvetrain.
In those last 2 pics the valvecovers and intake are just resting on the heads, nothing bolted down. I just needed to see it like that to give myself some motivation and hope for this whole project haha. It is amazing how small it looks in there with no body panels or front accessories or anything haha.
So that is it for now, I'll post updates as they come. Keep on Jeepin' everyone!
EDIT: ignore the absurd engine paint combinations, everything is going black/gold traditional Ford. I need to get rid of that bastard bozo mismatch! haha
I used GenRight's universal DOM crossmember kit, but I had to modify it a bit. The mounting flanges on the ransmission are pretty far apart and are "butterfly" style where they have an upward sweep each. Kind of a pain but I made it work. The GR kit is nice and thick, just about 3/8" steel, so it's not going ANYWHERE haha.
In the process of it all I actually kind of got an impromptu tummy tuck on the Jeep as well. The lowest point is the front output on the Dana 20, and it is only about 3" lower than the framerails. This made me extremely pleased with the setup.
Here's a (poor quality) shot from underneath. The crossmember and bushings are actually ABOVE the framerails, and are welded in inside the body mounts. All I can say is THANK GOD I did that body mount lift (GR) and body lift (DayStar). Without those there is NO WAY there would have been enough room for it between the frame and the body. Also, there is less than 1/4" clearance between the front output yolk on the Dana 20 and the crossmember. It actually sits between the output yolk and the case housing. The tolerances on this whole thing are insanely close.
And here's the view from the top. I chewed out a few inches from the front of the trans tunnell, which, in retrospect i didn't NEED to, but made things a heck of a lot easier. In the end there's just going to be a diamondplate cover made for this hole anyway, so I didn't lose any sleep over it.
I was going to re-use my custom made baseball shift knob that I had in the YJ for the last few years because it's cool and I made it myself; but this shift knob that came with the trans is just way too cool not to use. It has a lot of "character" and you can tell it has seen some sh*t hahaha. Plus it is over 40 years old, which I think is cool too.
One last thing I did is to drop the dizzy in. I love Ford for their use of a front mounted distributor. It not only makes getting it in easier, but general maintenance is easier, setting the timing is easier, and I was able to get the motor within 1/2" of the firewall because the dizzy doesnt bulge off the back of the motor like on GM/Mopar designs.
So that's about all for now. Thanks for reading my overly ambitious build thread, I'll keep coming back with updates as I find more time and money to work on the old girl. Jeep on Jeepin' on everybody!
The roller motor needs a 50oz balanced flywheel to take an 11" clutch. FWIW I'm running linkage style non-hydraulic clutch system. Also, from what I've read I need a 164 tooth flywheel to catch the starter.
I can't seem to find someone that offers a 164 tooth, 11" accpting, 50oz flywheel!!
I tried to source part numbers off the crap I got when I got the trans, but is really isn't helping a whole lot, as I'm getting a lot of conflicting information.
So hopefully you guys can help with what I have, what I need, and where to get it. Here's some pics of numbers I pulled off the clutch assembly that was given to me when I got the trans.
Stamped: A4D11, the clutch itself.
Stemped: MODEL 11CF, pressure plate.
Cast: 3 9L26, flywheel.
Stamped: C7TE-A, flywheel.
Cast: C5AE 6380-F(?), flywheel.
That last one is the part that is giving me a stroke. There's plenty of info around about castings ending in "E" but nothing about the "F" mine has. Maybe it is an incomlete or misprinted casting but I'm just not sure, it looks perfectly fine like it supposed to be an "F".
Please help guys, I'm stuck here on which parts to order and why. Thanks!
For anyone interested; i solved the problem in the last post by working with the incredibly helpful and nice people at Tom's Bronco Parts. Here's a breakdown of what all I need according to them, whom I trust, seeing as how they see this powertrain swap of late EFI 302s into early Bronco's all the time. I'll be ordering on Friday (payday).
And an equalizer bracket, since I'm retaining the mechanincal non-hydraulic style clutch linkage and the late model 302's don't have a provision on the block for a bell crank to bolt to. I figure even if I have to modify it to work in the Jeep frame, it'll still be worth it in time and headaches saved in fabricating something, especially being a relatively cheap part: http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/produ...alizer-bracket
Also, I snagged some FRPP 24lb injectors off ebay yesterday used and cheap, with a guarantee of functioning or my money back. We'll see how that goes. Now I just have to finish assembling the random front accessories and engine front bracketry. Anyone here know a good writeup on converting an AC unit into an air compressor?
So, a little non-Jeep news: I met with a client through work last week and noticed an old motorcycle on his property way aby in the corner leaning up a gainst a tree and all overgrown and covered in bushes and dirt. We got to talking and the long and the short of it is HE GAVE ME THE BIKE, FOR FREE!!!!!
It's a 1968 Honda CL175, and it is pretty damn cool. I'm all about american bikes, but this is just downright neat.
He bought it new in 1968 and parked it in 1983 when his clutch siezed up on him. It has literally been sitting outside under the same tree for 30 years without moving. It's a little, rough to say the least, but it is in way better condition than I would have ever though for sitting outside for literally 30 years. The frame and fenders don't have a speck of rust, the gas tank may or may not be salvagable having fuel in it for so long, i hear rust inside, so time will tell. The brakes, tires, and clutch are shot, as is the seat. But its all there, no missing parts save for some small badges and stickers. I haven't got the motor to turn over only because the clutch and brake are siezed, and it was labor day weekend so I was running around doing family stuff and fishing.
Anyway, just thought I'd share the good news. The bike is going to sit until I finish the Jeep, I can't have too many projects at one time, and would rather not spread myself that thin financially either.
Here's some pics; enjoy. And Jeep updates are coming as soon as I get those parts from Tom's Bronco Parts, which I odered on Friday. Cheers.
made a new friend that was living in the frame. we named him Lemmywinks.
And here's what she ought to look like when she's all done. A beautiful 17 horsepower at 10,500rpm (no joke, factory spec).
some new (and dissapointing) updates from the weekend.
Got the powertrain pulled for what I hoped would be the last time, since it is a total stroke to do (see image below). Lined up the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, clutchfork, basically all the stuff that transfers power. Problem is, THE DAMN FLYWHEEL HAD A MANUFACTORING DEFECT WHERE ONE OF THE BOLT HOLES TO HOLD THE PRESSURE PLATE WAS THREADED INCORRECTLY.
SO, after I hurled a wrench down the block in a blind rage, and subsequently had to stomp overe and retrieve it because that's the one I needed next (isn't it always), I cleaned up and just have to wait. I'm going to call Tom's Bronco Parts today and *politely* DEMAND a new one be sent TODAY and expedited shipping free of charge along with a return box and postage to send the old one back. I hate it when this kind of stuff happens....
Ok, so the f*cked up flywheel was replaced with a new bada** billet one, and we go to bolt it together and SON OF A *****! Now I have the wrong bolts for the pressure plate! I swear it is just one thing after another. That was earlier in the week, turns out the new HD billet flywheel is tapped out for larger and stronger bolts which happen to be a GM application, so I ordered those from ARP and they came in yesterday.
Pulled the trans up on the welding table, cleaned and gasketeted everything up, and had some buddies come over to help me shoot the damn motor on to the trans. For anyone that's never done this, it can be a total pain in the rear, because things need to be ever so level and you need to slide it in so that the splines on the trans catch perfectly with the clutch disc and polit bearing. Now, that wouldn't be the biggest problem except everything I have is cast iron and is HEAVY as sin. So get the crane, get some buddies, and have some patience; eventually it'll set in right. Just take caution not to mutilate the pressure plate fingers or the clutch disc itself, you have to go slow and constantly check things like height and level on the crane. It isn't worth rushing and f'n up a few hundred dollars worth of parts.
After we had that all buttoned up for (God willing) the last time, we pulled the tub back for a few reasons.
1) Easier to seat the powertrain back in this way. center of the frame is lower than the front so the crane doesn't have to go as high, and don't need to pitch it back and forth to clear everything.
2) If you recall I got the GR raised body mounts and welded them to the frame. Well, funny story about that; the GR kit, as awesome and heavy duty as it is, only includes the 6 mounts which run along the sides of the Jeep frame. Not the front for the grille, nor the rearmost corner two, or the inner 2 which sit approximately underneath the rear seat. So, we had to figure out a way to effectively raise the rear mounts so that all of them would be congruent with the 1" lift which is built into the GR mouns. Well, as it turns out, the factory front channel iron bumper is perfect for this application. It's thick enough, wide enough, strong enough, and just needed to be cut to size. Fantastic. So we chopped it to width and burned it in. What you can't see it all the gusseting we did on the underside to the frame and across itself and to the existing cropssmember. I'm 6'2" and 260lbs and I was jumping on that thing like Donkey Kong and it didn't budge.
Life's great when you have two cranes in the garage.
Yes, the Sox bumper sticker is staying on there, and yes, that's the AC/ half of an AC/DC bumpersticker that was cut in half when we fit it. It'll be staying as well.
I wish I'd have snapped more pics last night but we were working furiously for time's sake. As it is we didn't wrap up until nearly 2am, and I had to be up at 6am this morning. In fact, I'm updating this thread right now from my office, exhausted and questioning my sanity with regards to this project. Oh well, such is life I suppose.
So that's it for the time being, I'll post updates hopefully on monday when the body is placed for good. Also shooting to finalize the pinion angle on the 8.8 and burn the mounts in permanently this weekend; time allowing.
Figured I'd update my little thread here even though I've really been having a hard time getting a lot done. The reality of it is that sometimes life gets in the way of things like an old Jeep, and priorities have to be reevaluated.
So, I learned something about Ford small blocks. The bellhousing inspection plate is actuall one big total pain in the a** piece. GM and Mopar units are usually the standard half moon shapes that can be bolted on at the end of the process and no big deal. Well, aparently Ford thought that was too convenient; becuase their plates HAVE TO GO ON BEFORE THE FLYWHEEL. So..... this means I have to pull the drivetrain, seperate the trans from the motor, pull the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel off the motor, then install the plate, re-clean and install the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate, re-align and mate the motor and trans (oh joy), and the send it all back in the frame. Needless to say, I'm a little more than upset.
If anyone is interested, here's the part from TBP. I've had an issue with parts before but their customer service and tech support are top notch. http://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/produ...289302351w-new
So last night I went over to the garage for the first time in a few days, cleaned the sh*t out of everything and reorganized the tools, swept, the cracked a beer and lit a smoke and relaxed. Lots of crazy stuff happening in my life at the moment, and just being around the garage and project somehow helps ease my mind.
I didn't want to leave accomplishing nothing at all towards the goal, so I wire wheeled and cleaned with solvents both the firewall and engine block. No more cruddy white wall or gross off blue color block. Just seeing this was a bit of a morale boot I have to admit. I love the old school Ford black and gold scheme.
Your build makes me feel like mine is a POS. Keep up the great work!
Thanks man! I've been a real bum about it lately, you know how life can get in the way sometimes.... I should have some updates this weekend. My new block plate/ inspection plate is in the mail, so hopefully this weekend I'll pull the trans off the motor for what I hope is the last time, intall the plate, slide it back together and be done with it. That'll allow me to sinch down the tub to the frame for good so I can start routing my fuel/brake/exhaust systems.
Last weekend I took a trip to the city of Joliet, which if anyone is unfarmiliar with is basically a miniature Detroit about an hour south of Chicago. Gross, I know; but they have a ton of junkyards which drives prices down, and they have massive inventory. I found an early 90s F150 with a 302 and pillaged almost all its accessories. I have to go back for the fan pulley and a few other miscellaneous things because I didn't bring all my tools last time.
Got all the brackets bolted up for a test fit. I'm going to delete the smog pump entirely (lower passenger side) and try to rig a compressor in place of the AC (upper driver side), then I have to figure out the bracket I have to make to adapt the Saginaw pump in place of the weak Ford power steering pump (lower driver side). The steering shaft is going to be closer than I'd ever have liked it to be, but inital measurments say it'll be ok... time will tell.
Last night we pulled the tub back, seperated the motor and trans, pulled off the pressure plate, clutch, and flywheel, installed the block plate/ inspection plate or whatever else you want to call it, then reinstalled the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. It was a total stroke. I'm lucky I have 2 really good friends with nothing better to do and two engine hoists. One held the rear of the body up the in the air while the firewall rested on the rear of the frame, the other pulled the trans and tcase off to allow me access to the back of the engine. We used a big ratchet strap across the front of the engine and around the frame so that when we pulled the trans, the engine wouldn't tip back all the way on the motor mounts.
Once that was all done, I started following more wires and wiring diagrams. Got the A/C delete pulley on. Got the new bracket on for the smog pump delete, just have to heat up the bolts holding the alternator to the old bracket, they're siezed in there pretty damn tight. Just to be clear, I won't be usng that crappy old junkyard alternator, but I need it for mockup purposes and eventually as a core on the new one. Also tossed on the unreasonably expensive belt tensioner assembly. Today I'll try to get the alt. on so that I can use the old faithful string trick to get a belt size figured out. Details and updates to come.
One last detail: I installed and buttoned down the oil pickup and oil pan and filter. Spent some time with an electric drill and a primer though the distributor hole priming the oil pump, and all my lifters and pushrods pushed oil up though into the heads. So that's a load off, my oiling passages aren't FUBAR.
So, I got a little more work done yesterday after the Bears game, quick update:
I got a new engine accessory bracket that has the air pump deleted, awesome. So I went ahead and pulled off the old one, and bolted the new one on. Well, I needed to move the alternator from the old accessory bracket to the new one. Bolt #1, no problem, just as it was suppoed to. Bolt #2 however.... busted the head right off. Dammit. This is one of those ~6" long bolts that goes through the front accessory mount, then the alternator sleeve, then a rear accessory mount, for added strength and to keep the pulley centered as not to spit out or chew up belts. Well, I started by cutting carefully between the alternator and the bracket so that I could get the alternator out and free. Then once I had it free, I assumed the bolt was shouldered because no one in their right mind would design a 6" bolt to be threaded all the way through the shank and have threads running all the way though the alternator itself, right?..... right? WRONG. So then came an hour or so of drilling out the alternator itself to free that belt. Thank god for my drillpress is all I can say. Oh, but I should mention, before that I made a booboo. See, I was under the assumption that the bolt was shouldered or sleeved in the alternator, so I tossed the alt into the new bracket and tried using a new bolt to chase the old broken one out.... except, it didn't. What it DID do is manage to break off the front part of the NEW accessory bracket where the alternator mounts. So, at this point I'm royally upset. After said drillpress-ing was completed I turned my attention back to the bracket. What I did is hang the alternator from the upper bolt mount that didn't break, and swing it into position, then carefully measure center on center from the unused portion of a mounting point lower on the bracket. Then came out the 1/4" plate steel, grinder, and drillpress, and basically I made a panhard bar for my alternator haha.
Pics of the above paragraph of frustration.
After that was all said and done, I replaced the rotten old pulley on the tensioner arm and realized giddily that I was ready for a belt! So, using the tride and true string technique, I determined my belt length to be 87.5". Ran to Autozone and snagged the appropriate length 6 rib, and tossed her on. Do I know karate? Because I just got a black belt! hahaha.
Past that, I bolted down the upper intake manifold, installed a 180* degree thermostate (kind of a PITA on these motors), installed the PCV valve and filter, ran some more wires, fitted the distributor with wires, and took as step back and realized, by God she's a few random sensors and wires from running!
All in all, it was actually a pretty productive evening in the garage. Like I said, I'm only a few miscellaneous sensors and wiring/vacuum line splices/connections away from firing the old girl up. Updates to follow as permittied. Thanks for tuning in!
Saturday continued the daunting task of hybridizing the two engine managment and chassis wiring harnesses. A friend and I sat for a few hours in a frigid garage staring at pages upon pages of schematics between the two vehicles and determining which wires were to be retained, replaced, or spliced together. I swear after a few hours I could hear what I thought was bacon frying in a pan, but must have just been our brains sizzling and overheating in our skulls
We also got the body bolted to the frame for good, albeit with some work left on that front as well. Ok, follow me here, past the fenders, there are 3 body mounts along the outside of the framerails on each side, then there are a pair mounted inside the frame just beneath the rear seats, across the crossmember, then finally there are two more at the very end of the tub at the corners. We have all the first 6 done and in, with the exception of the middle one on the passenger side, which needs to be welded in along with a new support structure. This is a direct result of having a vehicle live in the midwest for twenty-something years and endure salt filled winters. The capture nut spun, and subsequently I had to hack into the tub to free it. The pair on the inside of the frame, under the rear seat, are done and mounted to my new 'crossmember', which is in fact a reenforced and reappropriated factory front bumper The last pair is not in at all, because they mount to the last crossmember, the one which 'capps off' the end of the frame, and I've been too lazy and to preoccupied with other tasks to build yet. So, all in all, we have 7/10 holding the tub down. Good enough for me, and good enough to be able to push it around and climb in and out without breaking anything.
I also took it upon myself to toss on a spare YJ grille which I had laying around. This is actually the factory grille that came on the vehicle, but I bought another one years ago and slowly painted it in the American flag motif, then swapped them out. I just had this one laying around collecting dust, and with the looming prospect of this motor running soon I need a way to support the radiator.
Sunday morning before the Bears game I rolled the rig out of the garage into the sunlight for the first time in a while, and it kind of struck me how much this is coming together, and how far I've come though all of this. I didn't stand and admire too long, as it was a balmy 18* outside
Basically I spent about two hours cleaning and organizing furiously. When you work late into the night and have to be up early, there is a tendency to leave tools out of place, and generally the place gets filthy with cigarette butts and empty bottles and cans.
Pics, for the visually oriented amongst us
As an aside: with the grille back on, the body bolted down, and the powertrain nearly complete, it got me thinking....... maybe I should leave the stock square headlight YJ grille....
I don't know. I feel as though this is a bit of a vehicular identity crisis
One one hand, round headlights are so iconic. It's Jeep's "thing" per-say. CJs are awesome vehicles, and it would be paying respect to heritage. I've literally changed almost every single other part of this car, and everyone has been more than 100% supportive, but God forbid I change the grille, blasphemy! Also, they undeniably look great; timeless.
But on the other hand, perhaps I should accept the 'redheaded stepchild' appearance of the YJ. Shunned for breaking tradition, maybe I should own that moniker; be proud of it, embrace it. There are roughly 70 years worth of 'round eyes' running around out there in the world, but only 9 years of us 'squares'.... is that something I could be proud of?
Sigh..... I don't know anymore. Let's hear what you all have to say, as I always take into account the voices and opinions of my community. As always, thanks for reading and following along, more updates to come as progress marches on.
If you'd rather have the appearance of a CJ front clip, put on a CJ front clip. It's not like you're doing a 100 pt. restoration... If you'd rather keep the YJ look, keep that (you don't have to switch).
Decide what you'd rather have and do it. If someone else doesn't like it, screw 'em. It's not their Jeep.
All I have to say is make sure that you make up your mind before you paint it. If you wait until after paint, you won't do it.
“The test of the machine is the satisfaction it gives you. There isn't any other test. If the machine produces tranquility it's right. If it disturbs you it's wrong until either the machine or your mind is changed.” ― Robert M. Pirsig, Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values