Alright, before I'm able to sling in the new 8.8, there was some cancer that needed a round of chemo......
Rear shock towers (or at least it ued to be...)
Rear frame shackle mounts...
And then with a surgeon's accuracy....
How she sits at the moment.
The primer is just temporart to inhibit rust where I've already ground down to bare metal, it will get a POR15 job when it's go time.
I also ordered up a set of these bad boys..... http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....ductid=BMT4001
Basically just because. I wanted a 2" full poly replacement body lift kit to clear the all new brake and fuel lines, but nobody seems to make one and I don't like the 'add a spacer' type. So I'll use these new mounts in combination with my 1" poly replacement Daystar mounts. I'm running the fuel and brake ABOVE the frame as opposed to along side it like the factory did, that will make room for true dual exhaust and will keep the heat away from the brake fluid and gas in the lines.
From there I used thin cardboard (which may or may not have at one time held 24 MGD cans) and lots of measurements to mock up replacement rear framehorns. I have to go buy a whole bunch of 1/4" plate steel now, and refill my Oxy/Ace tanks because little did I realize they were tapped out when I started this, hence the ugly and incomplete sawzall work. More updates to come, but working 50+ hours per week doesn't make this the easiest to work on at night.... and it's not like I have a money tree growing in my yard either...
I managed to get some more cutting done last night. The tops and bottoms of the frame were in pretty good shape, so I've decided to just plate the sides with 1/4" steel. Here's a good question for you guys: if the added plate steel is 1/4" thicker with fishplates and bracing on each side, is there any reason I can't just space the shackles on the spring size with 1/4" thick washers so that the respective sides are parallel and don't bind? I wouldn't see any issue, but let me know what you all think. What I'm saying is that since the frame is going to be 1/4" wider with the thick steel on each side there will be 1/2" overall of a 'V' formed with the shackles going down to the frame. so it would kind of be like \ _ / .... where as with 1/4" spacer washers on the leaf spring side inside the shackle it would be parallel l_l..... I'm trying to communicate what I'm on about as best as I can haha.
Got a bit more cutting done yesterday. Chopped off the factory body mount perches, Genright's are on thier way, FedEx says Thursday. I didn't grind it all down flush and smooth yet because I have to use the previous exact locations to mock up the new ones.
For anyone that's wondering, I wanted a 2" body lift that was full poly replacement, not 'add-a-puck', and couldn't really find a solution I liked. I landed up with a Daystar 1" full poly replacement and this kit from GR: http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....ductid=BMT4001
That takes care of the sides, the farthest rear mounts I can pretty much do as I wish with, as I'm basically custom fabricating that entire rear crossmember at this point, and centering the gas tank, so that I can run true duals. As far as that second most rear crossmember that holds 2 body mounts inside the framerails, I've got one of my top men (whom works as a welder and has shop access breaks, presses, waterjet, etc.) working on a schematic for the 1" we have to make up on that. The front grille pedistal mount should kind of work itself out, with the CJ grille being 1" overall taller, I should just have to chop off 1" from the Daystar mount with the old bandsaw.
So, that's where I'm at. Waiting on my welder buddy to get those frame replacement sections I mocked up in cardboard back to me in 1/4" plate steel form.
Picked up a big fat generator from a buddy which you can see in the background of one of the photos, because my house electrical SUCKS (1960's cheapo) and I keep popping weak 15 amp breakers while welding. This ought to meet my power demands!
So, a little off topic, someone on reddit made me some awesome 3D renderings of what I hope the final product is going to look like (save for SOA/SUA discrepancy). I thought it was cool and should share with you guys my vision aesthetically. Cheers!
I stayed with a carb on my keep, "heck", only 3 out of the 18 that I've owned has been FI. I recommend the holley truck avenger series 4 barrels, they are built for off road and will take some extreme angles. I have the 470 on my 258 and love it. Carbs don't bother me at all, if it has FI, fine and if it has a carb, fine. As long as it's a good carb. I was wheeling jeeps when no one knew what FI was, or cared less.
1987 wrangler, 258 I-6, 5-speed.
2007 liberty sport 4X4, automatic
2009 ford ranger 4x4 FX4 OFF/ROAD, 5-speed
O yeah, kudo's on the ford engine, the chevy thing is done to death. The ford 302 is one of the best engines ever built.
I'm all but 100% committed to FI. I live in Chicago, it gets really cold here and I basically daily drive the jeep. So the convenience of FI will outweigh the wiring logistical nightmare upon install. And I agree with you all the way about the SBC being overdone. I'm more of a Ford guy anyway, so this all just kind of pans out for me haha.