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Unread 05-03-2014, 03:18 PM   #226
lafortner
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Using the A9L ECU and I have a test light. I had a multi meter this morning until I fried it not watching what I was doing lol.

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Unread 05-03-2014, 03:32 PM   #227
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Just to give you a little more info. I've got these temp connections right now. The fuel pump is still running off the jeep PDC. I've grounded it so it pumps in start/run.

Next I've got the two large Red power feeds connected to

Red/lt Blue (Distributor) hooked to run only

Red/Grn (distributor) hooked to Yellow (start) ignition wire. (This is the one that either wont allow it to run disconnected or wont allow the starter to kick off while connected.)

Power grounds Black/Green grounded to the - Batt.

Yellow (Jeep) ignition (start) going to Black/Orange starter trigger coming from the ECC Relay.
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Unread 05-03-2014, 04:26 PM   #228
warthog312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lafortner
OK, I Have injectors that fire now. The motor runs for a min. but the starter wont let go with the Red/Green distributor wire connected to the yellow start only wire. The starter will let go when I disconnect the red/green wire from the yellow. But then back to not having the engine run. Anyone know of another wire I can use for 12v start only power? Thanks! Luke
Ford uses two starter solenoids. One on the starter itself, one upstream that controls momentary actuation from the ignition switch. Are you using both or just jumping power directly to the starter?
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Unread 05-03-2014, 06:07 PM   #229
lafortner
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I've got the 89 mustang model on mine. It only has the one solenoid that mounts to the firewall/inner fender from there you only have the one 6ga cable to the starter that supplies power.
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Unread 05-03-2014, 08:29 PM   #230
lafortner
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I found this on a build site that has the crank and run and crank wires reverse of what I have found else where. Can someone confirm if this is correct?


* T/Y Tack
* W/Pk to Crank only
* R/G to Crank and Run
* R/LB to Crank only
* Pu/Pk to H2O temp gauge
* G/Pu Not used for Auto (Neutral switch)
* Pu/Y Not used for Auto (Neutral switch)


Thanks!
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Unread 05-04-2014, 06:42 AM   #231
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OK, So I was running to the wrong side of the EEC relay from (start). Now the engine fires and lets go of the starter but doesn't stay running. Could this be the NSS sensor on the trans keeping it from running? Is this the kind of symptom you guys were seeing when you did yours? Also if so is there a way to jumper that connection to bypass it? I don't have the harness connections for my trans. yet.

Thanks!
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Unread 05-04-2014, 09:17 AM   #232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lafortner
OK, So I was running to the wrong side of the EEC relay from (start). Now the engine fires and lets go of the starter but doesn't stay running. Could this be the NSS sensor on the trans keeping it from running? Is this the kind of symptom you guys were seeing when you did yours? Also if so is there a way to jumper that connection to bypass it? I don't have the harness connections for my trans. yet. Thanks!
Which trans are you using? I have an NP435, and my NSS has never been an issue. Either way, it should read 0.0 when in neutral so just ground it out and you should be good. Wait for someone that has encountered this to chime in, as I think I'm the only one using a manual trans.
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Unread 05-04-2014, 09:29 AM   #233
axxxgijoexxxa
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It might depend on whether or not your wiring harness came from an auto or manual car? If its from an auto you may have a plug for a nss that needs to be cut off and spliced together....But I wouldnt think it would start at all if the nss was the problem.
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Unread 05-04-2014, 12:34 PM   #234
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That was what I was thinking too. It's almost like the engine shuts down once I let off the starter. I've tried the red blue distributor wire on run and start/run and it still cuts off after you let go of the key. :-/ Just bummed a ride to get another multi meter since my old one bit it. Thanks for all the input guys. At this point I'm alone in this deal. Having to bum rides just to get things I need and get to work lol.
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Unread 05-04-2014, 05:31 PM   #235
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I've gone over the ignition setup over and over and ran a few tests. It's looking to be the pip/pickup sensor in the distributor or the TFI module. If I can bum a ride tonight im going to go get both and we shall see. lol Pray that I can find a ride. Funny how people disappear when you're working on something lol.
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Unread 05-05-2014, 12:37 PM   #236
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Quick update on my weekend. I got the rear shock tower perches welded in, welded in patches to my rotted out bumpstops (new shocks have built in bumpstops), welded up the new skidplate patches/nuts into the frame. Then I cut the factory skidplate to accomodate the new trans/transfercase/driveshaft etc.; using it as a mockup for when I fab my own. A friend gave me some 1/2" thick diamondplate that his shop was throwing away, it was a set of 8' long ramps that were used to drive cars onto an old alignment platform. Is it overkill? Absolutely. Will I ever have to worry about it breaking? Not a chance. Time to get the old plasma cutter and stick welder fired up!


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Unread 05-06-2014, 07:20 PM   #237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lafortner View Post
OK, So I was running to the wrong side of the EEC relay from (start). Now the engine fires and lets go of the starter but doesn't stay running. Could this be the NSS sensor on the trans keeping it from running? Is this the kind of symptom you guys were seeing when you did yours? Also if so is there a way to jumper that connection to bypass it? I don't have the harness connections for my trans. yet.

Thanks!
Mine was doing the same where it would fire just fine but would stall right away. Turns out I hadn't hooked up/plugged a buch of vacuum lines. Mine (94 mustang 302) had 2 large vac lines on the underside of the intake that I forgot about. Do you have all of your vacuum lines figured out and do you have all of them capped off that you aren't using?
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Unread 05-09-2014, 09:30 AM   #238
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uhohthe50 View Post
Mine was doing the same where it would fire just fine but would stall right away. Turns out I hadn't hooked up/plugged a buch of vacuum lines. Mine (94 mustang 302) had 2 large vac lines on the underside of the intake that I forgot about. Do you have all of your vacuum lines figured out and do you have all of them capped off that you aren't using?

I'll take this opportunity to ask you which vacuum lines you're running. I've got my main line for the brake booster, PCV, and the FPR on the rail. All the other EGR/emissions crap I just have plugged off. Are you running something similar?
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Unread 05-09-2014, 07:16 PM   #239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warthog312 View Post

I'll take this opportunity to ask you which vacuum lines you're running. I've got my main line for the brake booster, PCV, and the FPR on the rail. All the other EGR/emissions crap I just have plugged off. Are you running something similar?
Yeah that's pretty much the same as me. I still have my vacuum actuated 4wd so I needed a line for that. I also hooked up the charcoal canister and that goes to my fuel tank vent. From what I understand that will help with fuel vapors.

Here's a thread with pics that I used as a reference for those lines.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/ch...-where-857712/

I just capped off the line on the charcoal canister that us labeled to go to the carb.
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Unread 05-12-2014, 10:01 AM   #240
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Nothing crazy this weekend. Now that the welding is done on the frame (well, 90% done anyway) I was able to hang up the gas tank and skid. With that in place I began to pre bend and run some brake and fuel lines. Nothing installed yet, just taking measurments and pre-bending pieces.

I did manage to score this on Craigslist for $60. Not too shabby. It doesn't include the bumper part, but I'm making my own so no love lost. I have no idea what brand it is, or how to make up a mount post for the bottom to pivot on so it can swing out. Any pics or suggestions of ones you have would help (bushing/no bushing, etc.).






One more question. Anyone know the bore diameter on the stock YJ AX5 clutch master cylinder? I have this wilwood slave that I need to mount which I believe is a .75" bore, but I need to know if that'll work with my factory YJ one, and pray to heaven that it will move enough fluid. Reason being that the Wilwood clutch master I bought is a hair too big to fit behind the YJ vac can for the brakes. I could get in there and figure something out, but I'm a little on the fence when it comes to jimmy rigging something like my clutch lines.
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