As with us all, there is a story behind each and every owner and his heep. Mine started with a long family tradition of Jeep owners, so naturally my first car was an 87' wrangler. After I sold it, and bought it back, just to sell it again before I deployed. I bought another one. My 87' was named Black Betty, so my wife thought it a great idea to name this one Betty White. A week after I bought it, I talked a man into trading his hardtop for my soft top. I've never made such a great deal.
I made a set of disconnect sway bars using pipe, spacers, and cotter pins that I bought at Lowes. I also bed-lined the cab. Off I went 4 wheeling around Missouri for a few months
My wife even drove a few times.
As with all yj's, there is an adherent weakness that we all must come to fix at one point in time or another. The dreaded Dana 35. I am no stranger to these, as I have now broken every single internal part, except the carrier itself. Luckily I had spare parts from my fathers TJ build so I could get by, but this is where I started.
Then I stubbied the front bumper with the stock bucker just cut and adjusted (I broke the front bumper pass side so this is a temp fix.
The ultimate plan for this rig is to keep it street/daily driver ready, all while making it a capable offroad rig with 37 inch tires on HUMVEE wheels. My build plan is as follows
14 bolt rear with ten bolt front. SM465 4 spd with a np205 pass drop.
Rear is upgraded to 1410 and disk brakes and np205 has twin stick.
Both front and rear will become coil, because I'm waiting as little lift as possible, and to spread the wheel base. I was quoted at 200 bucks a piece for custom leaf springs, and I did the math, for 100 bucks more I have can have coils.
I am also working on a 5.3 for the build as well because with 4.10 gears and 37s. hell just the 37's any gearing and the 4 cyl will be a cow.
Today I put the rear disk brakes on the 14 bolt. I bought the brakes off a guy on ebay. They seem pretty damn sturdy to me, I did weld the spacers on a little more, although I don't think it would have been a problem.
There is a snap ring that has a small bend at the break point. This bend is used to retain a small metal block which keeps the spindle nut from turning. Remove the snap ring, block, then I used a punch and a hammer to spin the spindle nut out.
After that you need to tap the back of the drum rotor with a mallet and it will pop off. There will display where the pads mount and the four bolts that hold it to the square plate on the back. I didn't take pictures until after this point.
Then you line up your bracket for your caliper. I bought a kit that included bolts so I didn't have to run around town to find them.
I put new rotors, calipers, and pads on the front and back. On all four had a small tab on the caliper.
I had to grind a small dent into the front caliper mounting plates, not until I got to the rear did I get the genius idea of just cutting off the knob.
I bought my twin stick kit from JB Fabrication , it was the cheapest around and it seems to be pretty well made. The only issue I had was the black knobs did not have the shift pattern, so I bought a pair of blemish aluminum ones from him for 24 bucks. The engraving on them weren't the same depth, but who cares? I'll just fill it in with a sharpie and call it good.
I finally got my SYE from NWF and it looks great, I'm going to call monday and see if I can return the yokes and exchange them for one 1410 tc yoke, I wondered across a 1410 14 bolt yoke, go big or go home.
I also got my ruffstuff specialties' coil bracket mounts. I planned on fabing my own up, but for 57 bucks a pair, its not really worth the week in the shop to figure out how to make them with a grinder. I prolly can't buy the metal to make them for that much lol.
I started to weld them together but ran out of wire, so it's only tacked. For the rear, since they are 3.5 instead of 3 inches cut off the tip. Works great now.
I took off the slip yoke and gear set to replace it with the kit.
It wasn't that painful, but this damned ring was a bear to get off, and impossible to get on. I left it for the night and will tackle it tomorrow.
I also fixed my driveshaft. Some idiot didn't use lock tite on the strap bolts and they wiggled out. Some lessons are learned the hard way.
I still haven't got into town to buy welding wire, mainly because I still haven't looked up what I need for gas welding. I'm getting sick of splatter and would really like to clean my welds up some. I still haven't figured out how to put the snap ring on the short shaft for the SYE without snap ring pliers. This leaves me with just cleaning up and misc activities in the shop.
I took a wire brush and angle grinder and went to the 14 bolt to clean it up a little bit. Still have a while to go but it's looking better.
I also disassembled my tool center and reassembled it so that I would be able move around with larger stock on the machine tables. I added leg braces so I can pull it in and out without it collapsing.
you can see the ViVa paper towels in the background. they are the strongest when wet and my wife makes her own baby wipes, pretty need stuff.
I only got about half an hour in the shop today. I cut up what started out as a 5th wheel plate into a couple of clevis mounts. I done this a few weeks ago, but then I realized clevis mounts are about 4 inches long, not 2, so decided to go head and remake them.
I figured I would give you a peak at the smallest guitar/jeep building shop you've probably ever seen. (Most likely the only guitar building shop you've ever seen).
This week I plan on raising my fenders up 3 inches, finish grinding the axles and maybe welding on the coil mounts, and probably taking off the rear disk brakes to relocate the calipers above the axle, not below. Maybe even doing the relay/rewire headlight mod.
Besides the obvious torch, heat, cool, heat, cool method. In the last picture there is the steering arm on the front axle. I've taken the nuts off the studs, but im still unable to break that damn'd thing off the C. Any suggestions?
I'm assuming you're talking about the arm with the grease zerk? Do you own a pickle fork? Those things work worders.
2008 JK Rubicon
-255/80/17 BFG KM2s, 16/59 JKU springs, 2013 Rubi rims, RC stubby hybrid front bumper, XRC8 winch with synthetic line, RR evap skid, and more to come
1998 TJ Sahara Sold
-3.25" RC spring lift, Eagle alloys 125s, 33x12.5x15 Cooper STTs, XRC8 winch with stock bumper mount
1994 YJ SE Sold
-4" RC spring lift, 33x12.5x15 Firestone M/Ts, Eagle alloys 125, and a 4 cylinder to boot
1960 Willys Wagon
-Going to be restored and painted Omaha Orange
"I would rather wake up in the middle of nowhere than in any city on earth."
I ran around town today buying a proper welding mask, 2x2 tubing, circle drill bits, and a few other items.
I drilled a 1 1/2 inch hole through the bumper that came on me heep when I bought it and tapped in the spindle I bought from Ruff Stuff Specialities.
I welded the top and bottom.
I also went about cutting the 2 inch on the bottom tube for the upper spindle.
I welded it all together, and was quit proud of myself until I found out that when i put it together, it looked like a "V". I ground the bottom weld out, tapped it a few times. added some more tubing and i have....
I am thinking about cutting up the old brake drum and using the stud holes as a guide for the bolt pattern. I'm just trying to figure out how I may be able to make it 5 bolt as well as 8 so I can use the current wheels I have.
I have done some measuring and tinkering around. I've decided that I do want to put the coils centered on the frame, but I'll need to cut and re-weld the frame so that its flat from the arch to the end of the jeep. I also decided to use 36 inch dom tubing on top of the added inches from the heim and the bushing. On the Uppers on the rear, i'll be going horizontal, Baja style or whatever. the bolt will be vertical and the bushing will be on the frame, and since the lowers will be parallel with the frame i'll keep the bushing at the axle. I'll be going for 9 inches of separation at the axle. around 5-6 at the frame. I was going to use 7/8 3/4 heims all the way around but decided its not something I want to risk, so since I already ordered one set, i'll use 1.25's for the lower arms front and back. it will be 2 inch .25 Dom and I have to order it in 21 foot sections so I'll just order the Heim steering kit from ruff stuff so I don't have to order 42 feet. I forgot to order a zerk on the bushing I bought, so i'll use it for the np205 crossmember.
I finished everything but the latch on the bumper. I have 130 bucks in it, not bad. the latch will be homemade I just havn't figured out the design.
I'll post pictures once photobucket is back online.