Put the tank in for the final time, it's all painted, and has a 1/2" UHMW plastic guard on the bottom. The rear crossmember will drag way before this, so it's not really a skid. We'll see how it holds up.
All I need is gas & oil, test fire is TONIGHT
^rear diff cover was pretty close to the stock skid...
Green one is the old shaft with the 8.8 flange yoke I made after the Attica incident back on page 3. Black one is a $25 junkyard Cherokee front shaft. I'll be chopping it down tonight with the old spin it on a drill method. This is my 4th driveshaft shorten job, hopefully it goes as smoothly as the others.
I broke it apart last night, made 2 good joints out of 3 old joints. Needle bearings everywhere. The centering ball is a bit crustier than I'd like, but I'm averaging 6 months on a driveshaft, not for wear, for changing axle & transfer case position.
Tonight, I'll chop it down, burn it back together, then press the joints back in.
Welp, I'm at a loss.
I moved this under it's own power yesterday. It liked rolling so much it didn't want to stop...
I have the TJ master cylinder, novak brake line adapter, brake line, SM465 stock slave cylinder. The problem seems to be 2 part, with the most of it being it doesn't push far enough to disengage the clutch, the other problem is it doesn't seem to want to return, like it needs a spring assist or something. Talked to Novak on the phone, they said they've never seen it work with the hydraulic slave bellhousing, so that effin sucks. Anybody with an idea please let me know.
left this with Dan at Jeff Daniels. Their big red 4 door YJ truck bed thing they had at PA Jeep Show has the SM465 that has the master/slave combo that works off the wrangler master. So that'll be the same design for this thing. Plus exhaust Y pipe, 2 cats, muffler, single outlet. Allegedly it'll be done in 2 weeks for 3 digits. Right...
Went to HF for a NPT tap set. They were having sidewalk sale. Must have been my lucky day, 6 piece NPT set 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" both taps & dies, 50% off $12 so it was $6.
Behind it, is a 45 piece SAE tap & die set. 1/4"-20 through 1". $140. down to $50. 50% off that. $25.
Under that was the 45 piece metric set.
So naturally I left $56 lighter, but with 96 different taps & dies. Pretty sure that was a screamin deal.
Now remember way back I got this waterneck. Needed it, because the stock one 90°s out right at the frame rail.
But the thermostat for the billet water neck didn't fit my pump.
After much research, the 2007+ truck's water pump uses the same thermostat as the pre-2002 cars, I can't use a car pump because the belt would be in the wrong spot, but the 2007 truck pump is the one to get. I hadn't replaced the pump on the junkyard motor, so buying a new one wasn't the end of the world. plus I got a studebaker magnet in my rockauto box...
The other problem, was the heater core lines came right out at the frame rail, I've had **** luck with rubber caps on heater core lines. SO hence the NPT tap set.
Well I've screwed this up something proper. I would love to be driving an extremely underpowered 4 banger right now. I've crossed the 6 month mark in what was supposed to be a 3 month process. I've yet to add up the cost, but it'd be safe to say I'm over budget as well. My wife is an awesome an very supportive woman.
The gents at the shop who were "fixing the slave cylinder" for me found play in the throw out (TO) bearing, brought it to my attention, and I agreed that them removing the trans to inspect internals was the best course of action.
Unfortunately, I'm real busy at work and don't have time to do this myself, but more than that, the guys doing the work are a lot more experienced than me so I trust that I'm getting the work done rioght, and honestly, it's not taking any longer than if I were doing it.
Upon removal, they found that I used some wrong parts when installing the clutch & TO bearing and apparently pushed the TO bearing through the front of the trans.
Clutch it toast, TO bearing is wasted, front of the trans is jacked.
To say I was having trouble with the slave cylinder was understatement of the year.
The trans would need 300-400 worth of rebuild for it to be useable. But, it came free with the Atlas, and who knows what the condition of the rest of it is. Rather than spend money rebuilding part of that trans, I ordered a new rebuilt aluminum top SM465 from Midwest Trans, it ships Monday 6/30.
The shop agreed this to be the best course of action, and offered the same labor cost for removal & install, so I'm really only out a few hundred more for a completely new trans with warranty.
Again, to say I screwed up would be quite the understatement. It is good to know now what the issue is and be moving forward. I can certainly say, that if/when I build my late 60s longbed Ford pickup that I will most certainly use a motor & trans from the same vehicle. Combining a motor/trans/case from 3 different sources is just asking for trouble, especially considering this is my first motor swap.
Cooling system is done, but I don't think I'm getting an accurate reading from my autometer gauge & temp sensor, so I'm hesitant to run it any further than a few feet through my backyard.
...but it only took a little poke to make the back end want to step out.
Also, my PS pump is shot, it's a junkyard one, and I think I messed up the return port modifying it to clear the frame. I'd like to find one with AN fittings.
Still needs the e-fan in too, I got the 16" SPAL, waiting on their shroud for the sake of simplicity.
And a little tidy-up of the wiring.
...and a shroud for the giant hole where the trans come through.
But it's moving under it's own power again, for the first time in 9 months. All in all I tripled my time & money budget. But it's "done".