Did you have schematics to go by for the wiring? Or how did you figure that out?
I have the 1998 TJ FSM that's quite simple to find online.
On the motor side, I used LT1Swap.com. I ended up sending him the PCM too, I figured with as much info as he has, he's gotta know what he's doing, and I kinda felt like for as much as I used his website, sending him $75 for PCM programming was the least I could do as thanks.
Couple questions about your wheels: Are they Pro Comp 1069's with 4.75 backspacing and 9" wide? If so are you getting any rubbing? I am getting either the 1069's in 17x9 4.75" BS or Mickey T's Classic 3 4.5" BS on my TJ SE. I would rather go 1069's as they are 200 cheaper for 5 but do want it to rub. Diggin the build come on warm weather!!!!!
Yep that's exactly what they are.
At full lock, they touch the LCA and the antirock, but just barely. I haven't done anything about it, because with tube lowers I just use them as the stop and don't push the steering so far.
My front axle is maybe 1.5-2" forward, so you might find with the axle in the stock location that at full stuff the 35s would rub the back of the inner fender.
No rubbing at all in the rear, with the 8.8 and no wheel spacers.
Shoot, I'll be out your way this weekend. Taking a little time away from doing this every weekend to get some snowboarding in at Vail & A basin.
No Jeep love this past weekend, went to Arapahoe Basin, which I guess is very close to the Holy Cross trail.
Anyway, back to the grind. I ordered a clutch master cylinder, a straight waterpump inlet, and picked up some brake line and a ford solenoid at NAPA.
The wiring continues. I knew it would be a lot of wiring. Sure didn't see it being 2 months of wiring.
Oh well, ECU is mounted, intake is in, MAF is in and wired back to ECU (had to take apart loom to do that, bummer).
Not done the wiring, but getting very close to it.
I drew this up. Been trolling craigslist for AutoMeter Ultra Lite gauges. Good things are in the works here:
The clutch master is ****ed, the metal body edelbrock just doesn't work without serious modification to either the firewall or pedal box, possibly both. So I'm steppin back from that, gonna try the TJ master with the Novak brass connector that converts it to brake line, which I guess I should have done in the first place.
The power steering cooler is in, all plumbed up, filled with fluid (and I'm sure this will surprise Steve) it ****ing leaks everywhere. The reservoir leaks at the stupid cast in fitting, the gear leaks at the pitman arm, there's ****ing steering fluid coming out everywhere.
I made a kick ****ing *** shifter handle then realized I'm a dickhead and that there's a spring & collar that slide down over it, but won't slide down over it with my cute/stupid brass knuckle gusset ****ing thing on there so that got cut all to ****ing hell.
And I'm still ****ing soldering things to things. There was a point yesterday where I hopped in the driver seat expecting to hear the key actuate the starter, and instead hear the lovely sound of silence. So that sucks ***.
lovely lunch at the junkyard.
got a XJ front shaft in piss poor condition ripe for the M18 treatment.
got 2 electric fans, 1 yet unknown, and 1 dual fan from a windstar with the wiring and dual 60A relay bank
Packed up the back half kit and put it away. I can't do that now or I'm never going to finish. So the tank is going in in a not permanent place. Still had to rework the shocks though, so the shock crossmember, rear crossmember and everything fit nicely.
The top is mounted in pretty much the same spot, just rotated 90°, and a little tighter to the frame rail, and that gives me 31" between them, plenty of room for a 30" tank with a 3/16ths mount. Yeah I'm re-using those POS shocks for now. Wanna fight about it? It's got maybe 3" up and 3" down. Come at me bro.
This will get a cover on top, the whole floor will be redone eventually about 5" above the existing one. But that will be later, all that matters now is getting the tank hung and fuel lines in.