alright guys heres my write up on the stretch.
started out by getting the jeep up on jack stands and getting everything disconnected from the axle and frame aside from the brake lines. moved the axle out of the way
then we moved on to cutting out the coil buckets, shock mounts, and old cross member with the plasma. later went back and used a cut off wheel to get all of the welds and remaining scraps
put the links in, got the pinion angle, made our new cross member made out of 2x3 3/16" steel with the coil buckets and moved it into position. tacked it in place and checked everything out. at ride height.
(pic not at ride height)
took the axle back out to weld the cross member in place and the control arms got a nice fat bead then painted.
put everything back in and got the shock mounts in, for now i am running the stock rubicon shocks because the compressed length of the fox's was just too much to find a nice place to fit them. this is also why the bump stop is set about 2" lower than it can be. later on ill either make the move to metal cloaks 6 packs. or king coil overs. if i use the metal cloaks ill simply use the same brackets, and take out the spacer i made, gaining another 2" of up travel. deciding between 12 or 14" travel. ill probably go with 12 since i honestly probably don't need 14" to run blacks at rausch and sometimes other places.
Full bump will be 1" lower than this
What it is for the next two weeks :/
buddy got fox's for his cummins
Had all of this done in one weekend, the reason I took so long was waiting for this. I guess no one can lengthen the stocker due to the not having adapters for the cv joints. Tom woods is a work of art
lastly we got the corners all finished up, started with a paper template, then moved to the rubber liner, and lastly the aluminum.
used 1/4 20 stainless bolts and nutcerts from an amish store, think i payed $5 for that and the install tool. i liked the spacer they had for the install as it had a tapered end to keep the nutcert centered, a grade 8 bolt and some wd40 also helps.
drilled the body holes to 3/8" with a step bit, hammered in the nutcerts for a tight fit, also have to mention i got the idea to use jb weld on the nutcets and let me just say idk if it was that or a higher quality nutcert than what poison spyder uses, but i had absolutely no issues with spinning nut certs. completely happy with this turn out!
flares were the last, ill be making some steel ones soon, but this works for now lol. the garden edging was so i could get it passed by a local cop and get the warning signed.
getting used to driving it, but i'm completely happy with the turn out and it also rides a lot smoother, can't wait to test it out off road once i get new shocks.