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Unread 03-18-2014, 03:39 PM   #61
Maertz
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Why not 1350? I personally wouldn't do a 1310 rear with 40s
1350 binds before a 1310. 1410 is stronger and can go more degrees than 1310. Plenty of the juggies out here run 1310s on 40s and lower hp. If i go strong itll be 1410. Personally i see no reason for a 1350...A friend of mine had a jk on 40 and d60s with a 1310 and has yet to break one.

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Unread 03-18-2014, 03:53 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by Maertz View Post

1350 binds before a 1310. 1410 is stronger and can go more degrees than 1310. Plenty of the juggies out here run 1310s on 40s and lower hp. If i go strong itll be 1410. Personally i see no reason for a 1350...A friend of mine had a jk on 40 and d60s with a 1310 and has yet to break one.
Ash understandable, guess I'm lucky but with the way things worked out my pinion really doesn't get bad even with the planned 14" of travel. Will be running an even 7/7 or maybe even more uptravel. I too have have a friend with a 1310 on 40s, he has yet to have an issue too haha
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Unread 03-18-2014, 03:59 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by awinski View Post
Ash understandable, guess I'm lucky but with the way things worked out my pinion really doesn't get bad even with the planned 14" of travel. Will be running an even 7/7 or maybe even more uptravel. I too have have a friend with a 1310 on 40s, he has yet to have an issue too haha
Yeah id debate a 1350 on that but on 16" with 5 up and 11 down i worried
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Unread 03-18-2014, 04:20 PM   #64
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Yeah id debate a 1350 on that but on 16" with 5 up and 11 down i worried
Haha yea that's kinda stretching it

Pun intended
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Unread 03-18-2014, 06:54 PM   #65
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if you're going to run 40's you're already looking at a axle swap so you might as well just get that nifty 1410 yoke. its worth it
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Unread 03-18-2014, 07:01 PM   #66
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if you're going to run 40's you're already looking at a axle swap so you might as well just get that nifty 1410 yoke. its worth it
I assume you're talking to maertz cut I'm not planning to run 40s
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Unread 03-19-2014, 06:31 PM   #67
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Unread 03-19-2014, 08:29 PM   #68
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Unread 03-24-2014, 10:02 PM   #69
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Welp, driveshaft is scheduled to arrive tomorrow. I'll be putting that in and driving the heep home to install the corners and do some final painting.
I'll probably leave the exhaust partially routed until I can get a quieter muffler and rout the rest of the tubing
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Unread 03-25-2014, 11:33 PM   #70
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Drove the Jeep home tonight, couldn't be happier with how the rear end feels on the road, front is still a little stiff for my liking but that'll come another time.

Exhaust will hopefully be done soon, the drone is insanely loud.

Corner armor will hopefully go on tomorrow night, will be painting the corners under the armor, then nutcerts, maybe more paint. Then install painted armor. Hope it goes well.

As far as a write up i'm apologize but most of my free time is being taken up trying to actually get this thing road legal. I'll have to try to sit down and get that done this weekend
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Unread 03-26-2014, 04:29 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awinski
Drove the Jeep home tonight, couldn't be happier with how the rear end feels on the road, front is still a little stiff for my liking but that'll come another time. Exhaust will hopefully be done soon, the drone is insanely loud. Corner armor will hopefully go on tomorrow night, will be painting the corners under the armor, then nutcerts, maybe more paint. Then install painted armor. Hope it goes well. As far as a write up i'm apologize but most of my free time is being taken up trying to actually get this thing road legal. I'll have to try to sit down and get that done this weekend
That's one of the biggest struggles about driving the vehicle you wheel, keeping it road legal and drive able while still working on it. Can't wait to see some pics!

What are you doin for lights on the corners?
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Unread 03-26-2014, 09:15 AM   #72
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That's one of the biggest struggles about driving the vehicle you wheel, keeping it road legal and drive able while still working on it. Can't wait to see some pics!

What are you doin for lights on the corners?
Haha very true, the corners I made don't wrap around, more of just a side panel. Later on ill make a piece for the rear too.
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Unread 03-26-2014, 12:25 PM   #73
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Figured I'd snap a pic today before work
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Unread 03-26-2014, 12:33 PM   #74
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Figured I'd snap a pic today before work
Lookin good!
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Unread 03-30-2014, 08:48 PM   #75
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alright guys heres my write up on the stretch.

started out by getting the jeep up on jack stands and getting everything disconnected from the axle and frame aside from the brake lines. moved the axle out of the way



then we moved on to cutting out the coil buckets, shock mounts, and old cross member with the plasma. later went back and used a cut off wheel to get all of the welds and remaining scraps


put the links in, got the pinion angle, made our new cross member made out of 2x3 3/16" steel with the coil buckets and moved it into position. tacked it in place and checked everything out. at ride height.
(pic not at ride height)


took the axle back out to weld the cross member in place and the control arms got a nice fat bead then painted.



put everything back in and got the shock mounts in, for now i am running the stock rubicon shocks because the compressed length of the fox's was just too much to find a nice place to fit them. this is also why the bump stop is set about 2" lower than it can be. later on ill either make the move to metal cloaks 6 packs. or king coil overs. if i use the metal cloaks ill simply use the same brackets, and take out the spacer i made, gaining another 2" of up travel. deciding between 12 or 14" travel. ill probably go with 12 since i honestly probably don't need 14" to run blacks at rausch and sometimes other places.
Full bump will be 1" lower than this

What it is for the next two weeks :/
buddy got fox's for his cummins



Had all of this done in one weekend, the reason I took so long was waiting for this. I guess no one can lengthen the stocker due to the not having adapters for the cv joints. Tom woods is a work of art


lastly we got the corners all finished up, started with a paper template, then moved to the rubber liner, and lastly the aluminum.


used 1/4 20 stainless bolts and nutcerts from an amish store, think i payed $5 for that and the install tool. i liked the spacer they had for the install as it had a tapered end to keep the nutcert centered, a grade 8 bolt and some wd40 also helps.
drilled the body holes to 3/8" with a step bit, hammered in the nutcerts for a tight fit, also have to mention i got the idea to use jb weld on the nutcets and let me just say idk if it was that or a higher quality nutcert than what poison spyder uses, but i had absolutely no issues with spinning nut certs. completely happy with this turn out!

flares were the last, ill be making some steel ones soon, but this works for now lol. the garden edging was so i could get it passed by a local cop and get the warning signed.



getting used to driving it, but i'm completely happy with the turn out and it also rides a lot smoother, can't wait to test it out off road once i get new shocks.
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