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Savvy/Currie Aluminum Control ArmsROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO December Specials at Jeephut.com

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Unread 02-26-2014, 07:24 PM   #1
awinski
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Welcome, first of all i thank you for reading through this. this here is my attempts at a planned out build thread, every new mod will be listed on this post with a page number. i ask that all comments remain on topic. if you're looking for a rock bouncing monster, this isn't your thread. if you're looking for an ultra 4 racer built with the best parts on the market, this isn't your thread. if you're looking for the macgyver rig where everything was built from scratch this probably isn't the place. but if you're looking for a kid who got bored and decided to fab some ****, looked online and found something cheap and bolted that crap on, a daily driven rig that is practical on the street and the trail, this may be a thread worth reading. it may be a learning experience for you, you may be reading and think i have no idea what i'm doing. both of these are highly likely depending on who you are. so read, or don't, and enjoy! or don't... you decide!

Welp here we go, the same jeep i drive to day is the same jeep that went through a horrible accident with me. driving to school in November i struck a horse that had gotten out of its pen, damn Amish country. that same jeep went with me driver side into a telephone pole, and rolled into a field. she was down for 55 days, had her frame straightened, every outside panel except the grill and tail gate were replaced and repainted a GM color "chlorophyll".
the day she got out of the body shop



jeep: 2012 jk rubicon
6 speed manual
originally black
power windows (got jeep for a steal)

This jeep was built with the help of krawl off road financially, and physically with good friends in our shop. Originally intentioned to be in memory of my father. As of now I've decided it is no longer dedicated to him. later on in life I will do something proper, his favorite color, a cj-7 or tj like he had, ENTIRELY dedicated to him

Heres where the jeep was before the accident:
Rock krawler 2.5" max travel
Fox 2.0 shocks
Artec front axle armor (truss, c gussets, and lca skids)
Genright front aluminum bumper
Genright rear aluminum tire carrier
Falken wildpeaks 37x12.5x17
level 8 strike 5 wheels
custom exhaust over the rear cross memeber
Poison Spyder aluminum rocker armor
Rough country 1.5" wheel spacers
Synergy ball joints
Quadratec Q-series 11,000lb winch
Teraflex exhaust spacers
ARB diff cover

all of this can be found in my other build thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/p...emory-1507354/

AFTER MATH MODS: (updated weekly)
Synergy track bar bracket with sector shaft brace, frame side
pg 1
RK track bar with Ruff Stuff heims
pg 1
RK rear axle side track bar bracket, with custom brace
pg 1
Grooved falkens pg 1
Stretching wheel wells pg 1
Suspension stretch pg 3-5
Evap cansiter relocation pg 10
Stock Fender trim pg 11
Ruff stuff heims and high steer on stock knuckles pg 12
roll pan-ish rear bumper pg 15
as the jeep currently sits:
February 26th 2014

June 2014


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Unread 02-26-2014, 07:36 PM   #2
awinski
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Synergy track bar bracket and sector shaft brace:
Love it aside from the fact that the hole synergy for the track bar is too big for a 9/16 or 14mm bolt. I fixed this by drilling out the mount and using a 5/8" bolt. Easy instructions and simple to follow

RK rear axle side track bar bracket, heavy duty and like that their new design doesn't contact shocks, welded this on and added the triangular brace you'll see to the side for insurance. Wouldn't recommend simply bolting it on to the factory bracket as mine got mangled during the accident. this caused me to basically have no rear track bar till I made it home to the welder. May be the body shops fault for not noticing but too late now. And I am happy with the work they did, end of story

Ruff stuff heims In RK track bar.
even after the artec and synergy brackets were on, i was having death wobble issues. for the longest time i couldn't figure it out till one day i watched the axle side and noticed the rk bushing was moving quite a bit. after removal this is what i found
So I threaded ruff stuff right on in and trimmed my heims misalignments so they would not only fit, but also so that track bar doesn't contact anything.

Grooved falkens. Love these tires but wanted a little more, bought the ideal groover with 3 different widths heads online for $100. all I can say is that it was well worth it. Going slow is your friend, change blades when you have to push hard, otherwise cuts like butter
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Unread 02-26-2014, 08:50 PM   #3
Walle
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Blame that on me...I'm not liked around here for not drinking the koolaide :laugh:
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Unread 02-28-2014, 11:34 AM   #4
BigBlue7
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Quote:
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...and
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Rock Krawler | TeraFlex | Synergy | Fox | Poison Spyder | Genright | Nemesis |Beer
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Unread 03-02-2014, 08:48 PM   #5
awinski
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Here's how we spent the weekend, first things first went out Friday and picked up some things. 2x3 box steel and two 4ftx12" 3/16" steel sheets. The box steel is to make dollies for my friends Coronet. (Sorry no pics, may be in the background of some tho)
And then a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" 5052 aluminum. I hope to make my front and rear corner armor out of this sheet.
The. Friday night pulled a magnum out of a feild, farmer didn't seem too upset
Not pictured, Friday morning we also picked up a roll of rubber for between the body and armor, 3/16" steel washers to weld onto each suspension mount, two 7/8 d rings, one large hook for my winch( looks cool and easier to use than and smaller hook as it'll fit around more), stainless Bolts for most of the suspension.

Alright now to the dirty stuff, we got most of the body work done for the stretch, later we will weld in new wheel wells and do some minor touch ups. To start we measured and taped, being sure to use points of reference so it could be copied on the other side
Then we made our first cuts. We wanted to save as much of the stock wheel well arch so that it could be used later on most of the had part was to cut the bracing out of the inside, and removing the cauk the body shop used (no idea if there would be more or less on a factory body). later on we'll also add add a brace for the roll cage. I've seen before people use the stock control arm for this route, may be an option for us.

Here you can see why we saved the stock wheel well arch . Welding slowly trying not to warp, this is my friend welding who is much better than I. He also has a nice tool that allows the new panel to be welded flush while having an over lap on the back side.
Pretty much finished up. Worth the extra time in my opinion
Next was to move on to the driver side. This side was scary due to the gas filler neck, we wrapped it in plastic, which probably didn't do much but luckily no boom.
First cuts done...
At this point it was time to remove the gas filler, the evap vent, and the small tube which I assume is the gas cap sensor (senses for a leak) the three connections are what your looking at under the jeep. a flat head is your friend here, and if you're like me a knife will be used for the rubber hose to the gas filler
Every thing out. I'll have you know the sensor line was plugged, the gas filler was mounted in the wheel well between tire and frame/inner wheel well, and the evap vent went back into stock location after everything. Note, this is all temporary but does work. After removal pic
Next we made a patch panel for the gas filler hole by making the hole square, then making a panel to fit. This is much easier then trying to figure make a perfect circle
Welded in with the wheel well arch like the passenger side.
Later on we painted everything with rustoleum primer. I will be re visiting this with some seam sealer and also epoxy primer when we do the wheel wells. Last but no least. My wheel poke for the next two weeks. Sorry officer
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Unread 03-02-2014, 11:38 PM   #6
NYGLT56
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Unread 03-04-2014, 12:39 PM   #7
kyle_craig
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Neat. What is the plan for the stretch? What wheelbase are you shooting for? Will you be running flares in the rear? I'm looking forward to seeing more progress.
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Unread 03-04-2014, 07:05 PM   #8
awinski
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Neat. What is the plan for the stretch? What wheelbase are you shooting for? Will you be running flares in the rear? I'm looking forward to seeing more progress.
plan is to remove the axle and drive shaft. that day we'll drive the shaft to a guy we know to be lengthened, or have my friends jkur stock drive shaft shortened. after this cut out the old cross member/coil bucket/ shock mount assembly. put the axle in place, measure for control arms and get them made. then check full bump, clearance ect. i have a piece of 2x3 box steel that the coil buckets will be welded to, this will also act as my new cross memeber. put that in place. shock mounts and bump stops are last on the list. theres a mixture of things i didn't include there and the plan may change that weekend but thats the suspension plan.
i would like my ending wheel base to be between 105-108"
the aluminum sheet will be cut to make rear sides, and later front corners. this is what ill mount the flares to.

it's quite a lot to do in 4 days so there is a lot of planning ahead. i hope to get the corners cut this weekend, and have one side of the arms welded up, so that later we just cut the other end to length and weld on that bung.

hope this answers most of your questions.
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Unread 03-04-2014, 09:15 PM   #9
Jeepin72
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Have you considered "back halfing" the frame? Blue Torch Fab has a kit or you could make one. I am at 101" and got there by moving the front axle about 1.5" forward. The frame notch and coil relocation method will only get you so far in the rear. I wish I had a few more inches in the rear. I have room at the pumpkin/tank area, but the rear coils are about maxed with the Clayton 5" stretch.

If I had it to do over again or on the next Jeep...the rear back half would be key. I didn't want to do it now but wish I had. If you want to get to 105 to 108... the guys I know running that WB had to do a back half of sorts. They all built their own.
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Unread 03-04-2014, 11:41 PM   #10
awinski
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Originally Posted by Jeepin72 View Post
Have you considered "back halfing" the frame? Blue Torch Fab has a kit or you could make one. I am at 101" and got there by moving the front axle about 1.5" forward. The frame notch and coil relocation method will only get you so far in the rear. I wish I had a few more inches in the rear. I have room at the pumpkin/tank area, but the rear coils are about maxed with the Clayton 5" stretch.

If I had it to do over again or on the next Jeep...the rear back half would be key. I didn't want to do it now but wish I had. If you want to get to 105 to 108... the guys I know running that WB had to do a back half of sorts. They all built their own.
haha nope, i just cut the wheel wells where i wanted the axle, then ill move the axle there. this is not a rock monster or ultra 4 racer. imo the jk platform is too large to begin with. i do plan to make a racer in the future but either cutting up this, or going old, much older. either that or a willys wagon

the stretch is something i've always wanted to do, not only from a wheeling/ mechanical aspect, but also because i enjoy the look of a stretched two door. im not a fan of the two door jk's look in the least without a little something added to the wheel base. then there is also the technical aspect that intrigues me. i like a challenge and i enjoy fabrication.

so here i am. i plan to do my stretch without major modification. i will eventually switch up to 12 or 14" travel shocks, maybe even co's or ori's. but for now it's just a jeep that i can comfortably go to rausch or similar parks, run blacks all day without issues, and drive home. the jeep already wheels black fairly well, so this is not an area of concern.
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Unread 03-05-2014, 08:25 PM   #11
awinski
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no huge update but i ordered up some flexible fuel line today off of ebay. normally for things like this id go to the old local parts store as i love supporting them and chatting with the old heads, but sadly they didn't have anything under 2" od. also greased every zerk fitting i had (ball joints, sector shaft brace, rk lower arms) figured id give the rk heims some love as ill either sell them or use them after the stretch.
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Unread 03-05-2014, 09:30 PM   #12
Maertz
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if you dont mess up at all the 4x8 sheet will be close...i think the steel i have ordered for my new crossmembers is 2x4x.188. Looks good man, looks like were both starting around the same time! Whats the plan for the fuel line are you getting a fuel cell?
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Unread 03-05-2014, 09:58 PM   #13
awinski
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if you dont mess up at all the 4x8 sheet will be close...i think the steel i have ordered for my new crossmembers is 2x4x.188. Looks good man, looks like were both starting around the same time! Whats the plan for the fuel line are you getting a fuel cell?
this weekend i'm making a template for both the front and rear corners. Then get everything to fit on that sheet. No fuel cell. Stock location for now, just needed more rubber hose to run the filler. I broke the small line for the sensor earlier today, I'll have to figure out what I'm doing for that too
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Unread 03-05-2014, 10:04 PM   #14
Maertz
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Plan is to get a template set up for front and rear this weekend. Then get everything to fit on that sheet. No fuel cell. Stock location for now, just needed more rubber hose to run the filler. I broke the small line for the sensor earlier today, I'll have to figure out what I'm doing for that too
Thats a good call. Id have to look at mine again, but if i recall the length required on the front will be very close. Where you move the filler? I had mine temporarily in front of the comp cut, but its now gone again...I need to make a template for my new tire size soon so i can start testing where im putting my axles and shocks and such.
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Unread 03-05-2014, 10:09 PM   #15
awinski
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Thats a good call. Id have to look at mine again, but if i recall the length required on the front will be very close. Where you move the filler? I had mine temporarily in front of the comp cut, but its now gone again...I need to make a template for my new tire size soon so i can start testing where im putting my axles and shocks and such.
as of now mine is tucked up against the inner fender well, later on itll go in the front of the wheel well, circle for the stock mount will be cut into the armor. i figure if i can put the nose of the front corners go where the wheel wells will be on the rears, itll fit on one sheet.
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