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Unread 11-03-2013, 11:03 AM   #481
10-3-TJ
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Hey fella's

The new steering linkages are great. Super duper strong. I imagine it will cause something else to fail because it is leaps and bounds stronger than everything else in the steering.

I have noticed that since the linkages where installed the torque from the engine either under hard acceleration or jumping out of the throttle will cause the jeep to steering one way or the other. Under hard acceleration the jeep will pull right. Then if I jump out of the skinny pedal the jeep will pull left.

I took it in to the alignment shop and its as close to perfect as they can get it. It has to be the suspension and steering changing angles as the engine torque, torques everything up.

When driving straight no acceleration, it is straight as an arrow.


My fuel filler neck was simple. I took a long pry bar and not so gently removed the plastic neck down and roll over valve.

So yes if I roll over I will spill diesel, that's a design flaw that I am aware of. But I don't really four wheel that crazy that I am in danger of rolling.

The fuel filler neck otherwise appears stock and and functions normally. Diesel pump fits in with room to spare.

For those of you running your stock TJ fuel pump as a lift pump, is yours still working. Mine is not. I read on 4BT swaps that most peoples pump went bad because the pump wasn't designed for diesel. Mine lasted about a year. The engine driven pump seems to be making up for it with no problems.

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Unread 12-12-2013, 10:02 PM   #482
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Hey boys been a minute since I posted. The Jeep is running exceptionally well.

I have been wanting a smaller more off road trailer and I hate buying stuff when I know I can built it myself. So I found this wagon that was used for carrying telephone poles. The trailer is crazy cheap but the tires are NOT. The are 7.50 by 20 and about 150 -200 a piece.

Another thing is I don't actually know what to do with it as far as design wise. I appreciate your all's opinions so let me know what you think and any ideas.
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Unread 12-12-2013, 10:14 PM   #483
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Here are the pictures.
trailer.jpg

trailer-2.jpg

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Unread 12-12-2013, 10:17 PM   #484
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and another. The problem is that the trailer is narrow and the tongue/ front arms are short. I can lengthen the front A arms but the width is staying. I would like to make the trailer similar to the military style trailers which are something like 1 ton or so. Let me know your ideas.
trailer-3_.jpg

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Unread 01-16-2014, 06:21 PM   #485
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Used the block heater for the first time last night. It worked great! The engine cranked and started like it was a sunny summer day.

I highly recommend anyone running a diesel to put a block heater in.
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Unread 01-16-2014, 08:17 PM   #486
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My diesel dreams are loaded and aimed to the point of almost pulling the trigger.

What size heater did you out in? 750, 1000?

There is a guy over around Cincinnati that sells 4bts at a reasonable price and I'm just trying to figure out how to swap out an engine in a daily driver for the 2 weeks it will take to swap thing over to a running condition.

Where in Ohio are you located? This build is one I would love to see in person after following along and knowing that you're not having many issues with it.

Sent from Teletran 1
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Unread 01-17-2014, 11:37 AM   #487
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TJ Tim,

The guy selling 4bt's in Cincinnati seems legit. I have seen his stuff on craigslist. Looks like good stuff.

I put in the 750 watt heater and yesterday it snowed most the afternoon here. No more than one inch but the hood and windshield had zero snow built up on it. It really works great. Super impressed wish I would have done that in the beginning.

I highly recommend doing the swap. You WILL run into issues which will drive you crazy but when you get the wrinkles out, its awesome. I love driving it.


In new news. I am NOT gonna do the exhaust brake, I just don't have the room with the current exhaust setup, secondly it's like a thousand bucks.

But I am getting ready to purchase a Clayton long arm FRONT kit. As I have mentioned at full flex my upper arms will contact my engine mounts. So the long arms in the front will eliminate that headache.

The engine was so tall with the high mount turbo that mounts had to be placed low in the frame which caused my interference issue.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 01:47 PM   #488
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He wants a premium of a ford setup too... I talked to him a little bit and I'm going to see what else I can find. I do know I want to go ahead and get a P Pump setup with a low mount turbo.

What clutch did you use? The stock TJ unit or did you upgrade that as well... I tried to find it in here and remember th fork problems and slave cylinder issues but not the assembly or pressure plate setup.
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Unread 01-19-2014, 01:58 PM   #489
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P pump would have been sweet. Call Dan or Sean at Jeff Daniels. They had a p pump engine when I got mine. Too much money though. As it was it was an expensive venture.

I still have my exhaust manifold. Low mount rear but it shouldn't be hard to find one. I also have the H1C with an new rebuild kit. If anyone knows anyone who wants one.

I am running a ford flywheel, flywheel cover and bell housing and ford clutch from centerforce. Have had zero issues with it.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 01:25 AM   #490
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Write I ask my question just gotta say your Tj is BAD AS* haha wish I could do this. Maybe some day in the future.

While I was reading you weren't sure if your turbo would clear with the 90* exhaust manifold you have would it have been possible to flip the manifold so the 90* was down instead of up? Nt sure if that's possible I've never really gotten to look at one of these motors very well.
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Unread 01-20-2014, 08:23 AM   #491
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Lcon98.

If I would have flipped the center manifold to position the turbo low center my alt. and ac pump would have been in the way of the intake of the turbo. I tried to keep it low initially because I kinda wanted to go the sleeper look, but obviously that didn't happen

Thanks for the great comments. Its nice to share the build with people who get it. I drive the jeep to Columbus, Ohio occasionally and it gets stares of disgust and anger. Little do they know my jeep gets better mpg than their 4 banger and eco friendly over priced plastic car.
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Unread 01-30-2014, 03:29 PM   #492
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Boys last night I made a big purchase for Oscar.

Clayton long arm upgrade arms for the front.

New 5.5 inch springs for the front. The extra 2 .5 inches will help with supporting my extra weight from the engine. This was a suggestion from Dan at bruiser jeeps in Florida.

Four new Bilstein (s/p) 5100 shocks.

This addition to Oscar should make all the difference in the world.
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Unread 01-31-2014, 07:33 PM   #493
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Oooooh
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Unread 01-31-2014, 09:33 PM   #494
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Thanks... Clayton is a bit pricey so I will do full long arm in steps.

I debated about Clayton front arms or Rough country entire kit for like 75 bucks more. Here the reason I chose not to purchase rough country. The springs sagged in the front prior to the Cummins swap and now the look pitiful.

The quality of craftsmanship as compared to Clayton was leaps and bounds different.

The shocks were okay, but I wouldn't buy they twice

Overall the rc kit was a great low budget entry level kit. The kit got me four wheeling and did as it was advertised. Now that the jeep has evolved rc products in my opinion just weren't going to last.
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Unread 02-15-2014, 07:55 PM   #495
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Today the LONG ARM install began. I seriously thought that I would have the arms in, new springs and shocks done in one day. WRONG!!! I knew the day was going to be long when five of the belly pan skid bolts came out fine, but there is always one pain in the A$$. Ironically the bolt which gave me problems was a newer bolt and newer nutzert. It appears as the portion of the nut which is captured in the frame broke and was spinning. I had put spot welds on the outer portion of the nutzert to prevent this from happening.

Next was my welding woes. It is super hard to get a clean solid weld while welding upside down. I bet I grinded and re welded each weld no less than three times. I was so upset because my welds continually looked like crap. eventually with enough grinding and re welding I was happy with the end result.

I have both brackets welded in, and the passenger side upper and lower short arms removed and the lower short arm mount removed and ground smooth. Looks really really good.
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