Just like everybody else always says: It's about time i stared a build thread before i do any more work to my Jeep. That being said, lets get into it.
Specs:
2000 Jeep Cherokee Freedom edition (Hence the title) 4.0 4X4
Automatic Transmission (Not sure which one) NP231 T-case
4 door White color
Probably missed a bunch of stuff but i will add it later as i remember it, would have been alot easier if i would have started this thread when i started working on the Jeep.
Thanks! With a little help from a blow dryer, a razorblade and some adhesive removing spray it was pretty easy! Afterwards you were still able to see where they were a tiny bit, but after wiping it with a moist rag, all traces of them were gone.
So I got sick of seeing my coil spacers sitting on the work bench every time I walked into the garage, so I decided I'm just going to put them on without the double shear track bar and control arm drop brackets just to see what happens.
Wheels off, on jack stands, sway bar disconnected.
I forgot the track bar had a TRE so I didn't rent a ball joint separator, so I had to remove the whole mount. I had to cut away some of the factory splash guard to get to the bottom bolts.
i'm liking the white diff covers they match and always stand out, i had them on my last yj. and your rack is coming out great can't wait to see it finished
i'm liking the white diff covers they match and always stand out, i had them on my last yj. and your rack is coming out great can't wait to see it finished
Thanks! Painting the diff covers is a cheap and easy to do mod, but it makes a big difference. I'm hoping I can work on the rack some more this weekend. I also need to carpet my subwoofer box and amp rack. Tonight I will be putting on my control arm drop brackets! So exciting!
please tell me its stick... i do not like the autos lol 400 hp stock with a 6 speed trans. and yellow. i was thinking about getting one but i would have to sell my ta
So I'm finally getting around to posting pics of the Rough Country control arm drop bracket install that I did last Wednesday.
Here is what the control arm angle looked like prior.
Ready to get started!
Upper control arm removed.
Lower removed as well.
Adjustment caster adjustment shoe removed and control arms shortened to proper lengths.
Drop bracket installed. You can barley see the part for the upper control arm in the back.
Control arms back in. Had to use a ratcheting strap from the axle to the frame and a lot of wiggling to get the holes to line up.
Brace installed. Now a little word of advice: when drilling the holes for the self-tapping bolts that secure the brace to the frame, use a drill bit 2 sizes smaller than the instructions tell you to. I should have know better but I used the drill bit they said to use and when I went to thread in te bolts, the holes were to big! So I had to weld the bracket to the frame.
And here is the control arm angle when all is said and done.
So when I was putting it back together, the swaybar links were pushing up against the coil springs and the tires were rubbing on bumper end caps at full turn so I realized that the axle had been pushed forward too much. Then I later noticed the pinion angle was too high, so the next day I shortened the upper control arms, and voila! Problem solved! I does seem that the front is a little lower than before. Anyone else have this happen? Overall everything went smooth. Ride is way smoother!!! I need to align the steering wheel I'm guessing maybe because it lowered it a bit?
Looks good man. It reminds me of mine before I sold it. kinda making me miss it.
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