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ANOTHER Rockridge4wd Creation!! Spare Tire Carrier Delete Cess Recovery Gear Snatch Tow Strap OffRoad @ ROCKRIDGE4WD15 x 8 Black D-Window Steel Wheels Set of 4

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Unread 06-06-2013, 05:15 PM   #46
84_Fiero
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Originally Posted by unlblkrubi View Post
Great project. My dad had one the first year they came out. looked just like yours. Surprised it still had the hubcaps, they are great looking.
Thanks! I was very happy that it still had the hubcaps as well. They need "massaged" a little to get all the dents out from people installing them/beating on them, but they are there!

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Unread 06-06-2013, 05:41 PM   #47
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Put an order in for some grey Al's Liner. I figure I will begin working up a roof rack design tonight, expect either a CAD model, or hand sketch tomorrow, depending on how much fun I want to have with it tonight. I do have some good tunes to work to playing though, so I might take the time and work up a model.
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“And note that it behooves a good Workman to hammer his Work as true as he can; for one quarter of an hour spent at the forge, may save him an hours work at the vice.” Josheph Moxon “Mechanick Exercises” from the year 1703

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Unread 06-06-2013, 06:22 PM   #48
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I do have some good tunes to work to playing though, so I might take the time and work up a model.
Nice.
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Unread 06-07-2013, 09:39 AM   #49
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The Cult of Blue Oysters was kind to me last night and I stayed engaged enough to finish a model. So: As promised, my first revision of a roof rack.



I think it is pretty beefy right now, I don’t know if I should shed some weight from it, or leave it as is. I have to do some research on how much “off the shelf” units weigh, and what material they are made from. I have included pockets in the corners for off road lighting in the future, and will add mounting tabs for lights front, and rear as needed. Also added will be eye-hooks on the top of all 4 mounting legs, and brackets to mount a Hi-Lift, shovel, and come-along. I imagine I will be keeping the spare tire in the Jeep as opposed to in the basket. I did that with the 32” spare on my Cherokee, and don’t really want to go that route again. But who knows at this point.

Current specifications are:
Frame material: 1” x .120” wall square tube
Stiffener and floor rods: 3/8” CD round bar
Weight: 130lbs
Box dimensions: 6” deep x 52” wide x 74” long

This will take up the width of the roof, and put the front of the box around the mid-point of the driver’s side door. I had initially use a 62” long dimension (from the back or the Jeep to the back of the front doors) but looked at it again at work and decided to add a foot to it (which is why I don’t know exactly where the front of the box will live). Mounting will be accomplished by cutting a notch in the square tube, allowing a section to rest in the drip rail. A nut will be welded to the inside of the tube, and an angled part made to sandwich the drip rail between the rack and aforementioned angled part. If you wish, reference my Cherokee on page 1 and see how I mounted the spare tire carrier. I am sure there will be a few iterations to follow, but this is the gist of things to come for now.


…oh yeah, and it will fit thru the powder coat line where I work…
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"Anything that is complex is not useful and anything that is useful is simple. This has been my whole life's motto." –Mikhail Kalashnikov

“And note that it behooves a good Workman to hammer his Work as true as he can; for one quarter of an hour spent at the forge, may save him an hours work at the vice.” Josheph Moxon “Mechanick Exercises” from the year 1703

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Unread 06-12-2013, 12:21 PM   #50
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Charging system woes are no more!

I hate messy wiring… Actually hate is an understatement. So my final fix for my charging system is even better than originally thought out. A few weeks ago I bought a replacement alternator, a stock replacement, and discovered that my battery still wasn’t charging, which pointed the finger at the voltage regulator. For those who are thinking that I mean that I got a bad alternator, the voltage regulator for these old units are external, mounted on the fender. So I had the parts store order one, of course it was a special order. I picked it up this past Saturday and began a few hours of electrical fun.

First the new regulator I bought is a Delco part, it has clamp-down terminals to run the wires to, while the original Motorola part uses an electrical connector. No big deal though, the wiring is straight forward, and I couldn’t find a replacement for the Motorola part, so I began tracing wires to run. And I ran right into a brick wall. A voltage regulator requires a constant 12 volt source, easy enough, also a switched source (thru the ALT warning light on the dash), and two sources from the alternator: field, and stator. Well I know there are wires coming from the alternator, and I know there are wires coming from the dash. For the life of me I couldn’t get what should be the switched source to trip a test light when I turned the key on, probably an issue. Then determining the field and stator wires from the alternator would have been a simple matter of looking up a wiring diagram of that model alternator, but I never got there. While staring at the wiring coming out of the alternator I realized that the output did not go to the battery… It went to the voltage gage the previous owner installed on the dash… He (She?) ran the output from the alternator straight thru the firewall WITH NO FUSE BETWEEN THE ALTERNATOR AND THE FIREWALL to the voltage gage back thru the firewall to the battery WITH NO FUSE BETWEEN THE FIREWALL AND BATTERY. So, at this point I was staring at the wiring and getting disappointed, and it dawned on me: Why am I putting an alternator in with an external regulator when I could put one in with an internal regulator, eliminate 2 wires, one connection, and have a more readily available replacement part? AND I HATE MESSY WIRING TO BEGIN WITH! Yeah, that was a special moment.

My brother happened to have a Delco 12SI alternator he wasn’t using, which made this change over all the more appealing. Here’s what you do:

1) Modify the mounting bracket on the alternator to fit the Jeep. This requires cutting the mounting tabs, I used a hack-saw. Also a section of the housing must be filed away as well to clear the adjusting arm.










2) Install and wire the alternator, you will require 3 wires. 1 wire from the output to the battery. 1 wire from the switched source (ALT light) that I was having trouble finding earlier to terminal #2 on the alternator. I chose the wire it should be, cut back the old connector and voila, the correct switched source (corrosion and electricity doesn't work so well). And finally 1 wire from the battery to terminal #1 on the alternator so it knows how much charge the battery has. This can go straight to the output of the alternator, but I chose the battery due to the extra resistance of the wire, should have the alternator working at a higher output.

Here the wire with the short RED lead goes to the battery, the YELLOW wire goes to the "power lug", the GRAY wire goes to the ALT light and the solid black wire goes to the battery to gage its charge.


That’s it, the other wires remaining from the external regulator can be cut and removed from the harness. This was so simple it’s stupid not to do, unless you are keeping a vehicle 100% original. And now that I’ve done it, I’ve seen dozens of these alternators at the 3 car shows I went to since Saturday morning!

That's the old voltage regulator on the fender next to the battery.


All I have left to do is to re-do the connections, and wires going to the battery with soldered connections, shrink-wrap, and red wires for hot leads. This was temporary to make sure I wired everything correctly, and this is far too messy for me even still.

Now I need a new battery with a couple more cranking amps… On a hot day, when the engine is hot this one just doesn’t cut it.
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"Anything that is complex is not useful and anything that is useful is simple. This has been my whole life's motto." –Mikhail Kalashnikov

“And note that it behooves a good Workman to hammer his Work as true as he can; for one quarter of an hour spent at the forge, may save him an hours work at the vice.” Josheph Moxon “Mechanick Exercises” from the year 1703

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Unread 09-16-2013, 04:40 PM   #51
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Well, after a little break, I'm back to working on the Waggy, which has officially been named "The Fett" after an old friend of the family. This fellow actually. For years he would buy Wagoneers, and when they got to the 1980's Grand Wagoneers he would complain about how fancy they had gotten because they used to just be trucks, so fitting that mine should be a '66!

I have a starter that arrived today, turns out there is only one source for a starter for an AMC 327 Vigilante, and that is from a gentleman in Michigan. So that is this weeks project. Also on the way is a new fuel tank (for a 70's vintage Wagoneer, as there isn't one available for a '66, so I am expecting some fabrication work), fuel level sending unit, fuel pickup, electric fuel pump, and windshield. From no progress for a while to a decent pile of parts; I'll be looking forward to getting this project rolling again this week!
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"Anything that is complex is not useful and anything that is useful is simple. This has been my whole life's motto." –Mikhail Kalashnikov

“And note that it behooves a good Workman to hammer his Work as true as he can; for one quarter of an hour spent at the forge, may save him an hours work at the vice.” Josheph Moxon “Mechanick Exercises” from the year 1703

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Unread 02-27-2014, 06:43 AM   #52
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Hope you can keep us updated on this Wagoneer. Looks like a great find and really nice work keeping the old timey look, along with sensible upgrades.

John
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Unread 02-27-2014, 08:17 AM   #53
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Hope you can keep us updated on this Wagoneer. Looks like a great find and really nice work keeping the old timey look, along with sensible upgrades.

John
Thanks! I really want to keep the look as-is and make a reliable go-anywhere vehicle out of it. Funny you should ask for progress, after a few months of a combination of a little progress here and there and some overall inactivity, I’ve just gotten back into the groove of working on the Waggy, and no better time to update this tread than the present I suppose!

So far over the winter I have:
1) Gotten a new fuel tank, starter, 3 axles, rear-window tracks, a rear-window air deflector wing and have a new wiring harness, and digital gage cluster on order
2) Welded in new mounts for the new fuel tank
3) Traced my driveline “bang” to the rear axle
4) Realized every bolt on the t-case joint on the rear driveshaft were quite under-torqued.

I picked up new-to-me axles for a couple reasons:
1) The stock rear Dana-44 has 2-piece tapered axle shafts and from what I can tell is generally considered weaker than a “modern” 44, and it clearly has some internal issues
2) The front Dana 30 (maybe 27) is closed knuckle and has drum brakes

The new axles are both Dana 44s out of a ’79 Wagoneer. The downside to this is that they are 6 lug, however they came with wheels I can swap my tires onto, the front axle still even has the leaf springs bolted to it. Funny thing is I bought a rear Dana 44 out of an early 70’s Wagoneer (“modern” style and 5 lug) and two days later found the set of axles from the ’79 just a half hour form my place. So that bring the case I’m just going to put the 6 lug axles in and call it a day. This will give me disk brakes on the front, a “modern” style 44 in the rear, and early indications are they don’t need too much before I swap them in.

So current “plan of attack” is (in no particular order):
1) Rebuild both axles with new bearings, seals, and brakes
2) Finish fuel tank install with an electric pump and SS lines
3) Swap axles in
4) Replace brake lines with SS and replace the single pot master cylinder with a new one, probably from a ’79 to match the brakes
5) Replace the starter

That will get me to a solid drivable point, and ideally I will be there by June as myself and a few others are panning on volunteering at the Butler Jeep festival.

Possible extras are:
1) Install new harness
2) Install new gage cluster
3) Rear disk brakes??
4) Make roof rack with canoe-carrying mounts and a fold-out platform to put a tent on
5) Fix the few rust areas on, and Al’s Liner the floor

As for proof of progress over the winter:

Old vs new fuel tank (can’t really tell the difference, I know…)


Fuel tank location, I’m still amazed at how clean this Jeep is…


Front fuel tank mount (never got a picture of the rear mount)


Shhhh… It’s sleeping.


First rear axle, notice the correct offset towards the passenger-side to clear the fuel tank.


Has anyone seen a driveshaft joint like this one? This is on the t-case side.


It’s well greased and doesn’t have much of any slop, so I’m going to re-use it, just not something I’m familiar with. The axle-side has a normal U-joint.


This is where everyone stores their drive shafts, right?


I'll keep more updated coming as they happen this time.
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"Anything that is complex is not useful and anything that is useful is simple. This has been my whole life's motto." –Mikhail Kalashnikov

“And note that it behooves a good Workman to hammer his Work as true as he can; for one quarter of an hour spent at the forge, may save him an hours work at the vice.” Josheph Moxon “Mechanick Exercises” from the year 1703

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Unread 02-27-2014, 08:43 AM   #54
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Great thread!!
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Unread 02-27-2014, 08:55 AM   #55
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glad to see another FSJ being restored/built. love seeing these.

keep up the good work
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Unread 02-27-2014, 09:45 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paroxysym
glad to see another FSJ being restored/built. love seeing these.

keep up the good work
I have a '77 D44 in my CJ. The stock brakes are GM 1/2 ton units and they work very well. I used the same calipers and rotors for the rear with an adjustable proportion ing valve. The rear still lock up first but I'm happy. May upgrade the rotors and pads on the front.
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Unread 02-27-2014, 11:20 AM   #57
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Great thread!!
Quote:
Originally Posted by paroxysym View Post
glad to see another FSJ being restored/built. love seeing these.

keep up the good work
Thanks! I'll see what I can do. Quite a few ideas of things to be done, just have to organize them all...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 84jeepcj7rock View Post
I have a '77 D44 in my CJ. The stock brakes are GM 1/2 ton units and they work very well. I used the same calipers and rotors for the rear with an adjustable proportion ing valve. The rear still lock up first but I'm happy. May upgrade the rotors and pads on the front.
Very good to know. I was hoping that I could use the same brakes front and rear to eliminate the whole "I need front brakes for X and rear calipers for Y and rotors for Z" scenario.
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"Anything that is complex is not useful and anything that is useful is simple. This has been my whole life's motto." –Mikhail Kalashnikov

“And note that it behooves a good Workman to hammer his Work as true as he can; for one quarter of an hour spent at the forge, may save him an hours work at the vice.” Josheph Moxon “Mechanick Exercises” from the year 1703

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Unread 03-04-2014, 06:07 PM   #58
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Seeing as the weather has been somewhat less than advantageous to work in (read: I feel like I almost lost fingers removing that driveshaft currently living in my chair) I've found it convenient to re-think my plans. I have around 20 degrees of slop in my rear diff, and I KNOW that's where the "bang" in my driveline is coming from, so I may just take off the diff cover over the weekend (above freezing temperatures = work being done) and see what's wrong. If it's not too bad (something that can be adjusted/fixed) I may just hold onto the set of axles I acquired and build them for future plans and fix what's under the Jeep now. Seems the most cost-effective option at the moment...

Any thoughts?
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"Anything that is complex is not useful and anything that is useful is simple. This has been my whole life's motto." –Mikhail Kalashnikov

“And note that it behooves a good Workman to hammer his Work as true as he can; for one quarter of an hour spent at the forge, may save him an hours work at the vice.” Josheph Moxon “Mechanick Exercises” from the year 1703

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Unread 04-01-2014, 05:35 AM   #59
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The fuel tank was installed last night. I'm not 100% happy with the front mount I made, so I'll have to re-work it in the not to far off future, but for now it will certainly do. Everything came together pretty well for only having one new part for a '66 Waggy (the upper fuel fill hose). Over the next week I'll get the fuel pump installed, and the rest of the fuel system plummed and have a driving Jeep again. Oh, I'll take some pictures too!
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"Anything that is complex is not useful and anything that is useful is simple. This has been my whole life's motto." –Mikhail Kalashnikov

“And note that it behooves a good Workman to hammer his Work as true as he can; for one quarter of an hour spent at the forge, may save him an hours work at the vice.” Josheph Moxon “Mechanick Exercises” from the year 1703

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Unread 04-01-2014, 07:42 AM   #60
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Nice waggy!!!
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