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Unread 07-31-2013, 10:52 PM   #2026
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO2500

Me too
Me too. Lol

So many people think toyos are mall crawler tires...but I've never seen proof of a sidewall issue ??? They are beef and perform awesome.

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Unread 07-31-2013, 11:14 PM   #2027
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Toyo's MT's are good tires a few guys I know run them. They are very similar to the old Cooper I had. Don't know why the bro's like them so much for mallcrawling but for wheeling they seem to be pretty good with a bulletproof sidewall.

I'd like to know how blue label Krawlers compare to MTR's though. Price and weight aside.

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Unread 08-01-2013, 06:00 AM   #2028
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I've been thoroughly impressed with my km2s. Hook up great in east coast wheeling. They definitely hold on to a line better on slick, wet rock than an mtrk from what i've seen. I don't have much to compare to as they are the only 35 I have ever run. They are pretty loud now though after all the side lugs are completely rounded off, and many chunks are missing out the the tred
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Unread 08-01-2013, 06:39 AM   #2029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi View Post
Toyo's MT's are good tires a few guys I know run them. They are very similar to the old Cooper I had. Don't know why the bro's like them so much for mallcrawling but for wheeling they seem to be pretty good with a bulletproof sidewall.

I'd like to know how blue label Krawlers compare to MTR's though. Price and weight aside.

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My Blue labels hook up far better than the MTRKs on the rocks wet or dry here in the Midwest. They really shine around 5 psi but weigh about 20lbs more per tire
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Unread 08-01-2013, 06:54 AM   #2030
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Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
I think you have the best tire for all that right now.... I'm not a big Toyo guy though, I have no first hand experience with their MT, but seeing Toyo tires come in frequently, separated, worn funny, and worn quickly on all the crappy lifted trucks around here keeps them in the "poser" category for me.... basically good looking tires for pavement pounders with aftermarket wheels, with only one category they care about.... Looks. I also don't like that the 35" is 13.5 wide and around 10lbs. heavier per tire..... who know's though, they might actually work good. I see them on lot's of JK's in metric sizes.


Why Art..... with my little 10" of travel I haven't even been able to wear out the stock track bar! I could manage reinforcing it though if ever needed.
haha sorry to sidetrack your build Nate and get the tire discussion going. I love my mtrs I simply dont think they are very good when wet or muddy and I just want to try something different for east coast wheelin.

As far as the rear suspension goes is the plan to keep it as is due to costs and eventually 4 link?
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Unread 08-01-2013, 07:05 AM   #2031
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi
Toyo's MT's are good tires a few guys I know run them. They are very similar to the old Cooper I had. Don't know why the bro's like them so much for mallcrawling but for wheeling they seem to be pretty good with a bulletproof sidewall.

I'd like to know how blue label Krawlers compare to MTR's though. Price and weight aside.

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As far as west coast. My wheeling bud has them

Both of us 35's. my Mtr/k's work better for the terrain out here IMO
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Unread 08-01-2013, 07:53 AM   #2032
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Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
haha sorry to sidetrack your build Nate and get the tire discussion going. I love my mtrs I simply dont think they are very good when wet or muddy and I just want to try something different for east coast wheelin.

As far as the rear suspension goes is the plan to keep it as is due to costs and eventually 4 link?
It's all good Lu, and the decision to keep the rear basically as is, is based on me not being able to think of any performance based reason to change it. Besides changing the joints. My main motivation to change it was to gain more clearance by running double triangle with a flush mounted crossmember..... I just think that might be a little over my head at this point so I'm good with keeping things as is, saving some coin, and just running what I know worked fine for me. I know I probably seem pretty indecisive, but until I actually got into this stretch, and the reality of the costs vs. benefits vs. downtime set in..... it made things much easier to decide.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 08:02 AM   #2033
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As far as the tire talk goes...... my KM2's have been awesome, I'm a pretty die hard BFG fanboy though. I think the MTRK is actually the best M/T available right now, A lot of my buddies run them and they just seem to hook up well on dry rock, wear nicely without chunking and drive well on the street. I don't know about the wet, mud or snow. And I don't get the KM2 noise issues either.... Mine are perfectly acceptable, I'd even say quiet for an M/T. Oh well...... Toyo sucks.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 08:08 AM   #2034
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The MT/R isn't actually a mud terrain (M/T).....

As for your suspension, I can't argue with your reasoning. It's sound and you've arrived at your conclusion after researching the alternatives. The stock mount locations can work well as long as you bolt up good parts to them and keep your travel and height in check, which you do. I'd still recommend beefing up the lower mounts if you haven't already.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 08:38 AM   #2035
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The 4 link wouldn't cost you that much extra.

You're already buying new joints & making new links, already have to lengthen your driveshaft & doing the new fuel tank anyway. You'd just need to buy a few brackets, which could be homemade quite easily to save some coin, & a truss which a basic truss can be made/bent by a local shop pretty cheap. I'd say you could get the stretch done for little more than what you're spending already. What am I missing? I say just do the stretch. You knocked out a ton of work already, I'm sure you could knock out the rest just as quick as if you would keeping the stock geometry. You have to do just about the same amount of work. Only additional work you'd need to do is frame side brackets.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 09:06 AM   #2036
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
The MT/R isn't actually a mud terrain (M/T).....

As for your suspension, I can't argue with your reasoning. It's sound and you've arrived at your conclusion after researching the alternatives. The stock mount locations can work well as long as you bolt up good parts to them and keep your travel and height in check, which you do. I'd still recommend beefing up the lower mounts if you haven't already.
Ok you got me... "Maximum Traction" Tire...

As far as the lower mounts go, I don't think I'll worry much about the D35 mounts since it's now a short term item. The 8.8 will have some strong lower mounts though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102 View Post
The 4 link wouldn't cost you that much extra.

You're already buying new joints & making new links, already have to lengthen your driveshaft & doing the new fuel tank anyway. You'd just need to buy a few brackets, which could be homemade quite easily to save some coin, & a truss which a basic truss can be made/bent by a local shop pretty cheap. I'd say you could get the stretch done for little more than what you're spending already. What am I missing? I say just do the stretch. You knocked out a ton of work already, I'm sure you could knock out the rest just as quick as if you would keeping the stock geometry. You have to do just about the same amount of work. Only additional work you'd need to do is frame side brackets.
I agree with a lot of that, but I'm NOT making new links, and not deviating from the stock axle side link mounts. I'll basically be running a stock style mid arm with 27" links, using a simple combo bracket on the frame side. If I wanted to wait until I had the funding to build the 8.8, then I would probably go another route..... but just as it is i'm spending WAY more on consumables and raw material than I anticipated. Triangulating the uppers is about a $2000 decision for me right now (building the 8.8 + new links) as I'm not about to truss and change the brackets on the D35. If I set up the suspension just as it was, I can have my jeep up and running, and have several fun side projects waiting for me...... the duroflex joint swap, and a bolt in rear axle swap. As the funding comes in. It's all compromises man...... but in this case, I don't feel like I'm shorting myself anything at all.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 09:07 AM   #2037
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I was more referring to the frame mounts.......unless I'm confused, you're now sticking with the stock frame mounts right? If not, what exactly is your plan?
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Unread 08-01-2013, 09:11 AM   #2038
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Ok you got me... "Maximum Traction" Tire...

As far as the lower mounts go, I don't think I'll worry much about the D35 mounts since it's now a short term item. The 8.8 will have some strong lower mounts though.



I agree with a lot of that, but I'm NOT making new links, and not deviating from the stock axle side link mounts. I'll basically be running a stock style mid arm with 27" links, using a simple combo bracket on the frame side. If I wanted to wait until I had the funding to build the 8.8, then I would probably go another route..... but just as it is i'm spending WAY more on consumables and raw material than I anticipated. Triangulating the uppers is about a $2000 decision for me right now (building the 8.8 + new links) as I'm not about to truss and change the brackets on the D35. If I set up the suspension just as it was, I can have my jeep up and running, and have several fun side projects waiting for me...... the duroflex joint swap, and a bolt in rear axle swap. As the funding comes in. It's all compromises man...... but in this case, I don't feel like I'm shorting myself anything at all.
So you're putting the D35 back in? I thought the 8.8 was going in regardless of what you do with geometry. So, yea, that's a big chunk of change. I think I had about $800 in my 8.8 not including the ARB.

As far as the links go, I'm as confused as Connor. I thought you were sticking with all stock brackets & just making/modifying longer links to fit them.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 09:16 AM   #2039
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My stock frame mounts are long gone, sorry for all the confusion guys, I know I've been talking in circles. Specifically ill be using the combo bracket that UCF sells, that runs the links out to the factory axle side brackets.
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Unread 08-01-2013, 09:32 AM   #2040
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Here's the install I did last year..... this time it will be the same... just 6" further back.

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