Nate's 2002 TJ, simple but effective.... - Page 25 - JeepForum.com

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post #361 of 4885 Old 01-09-2013, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
gst95dsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
you might be thinking about it wrong...

its not pulling the low side of the chassis down even further, itll be pulling the high side (side with the tire drooped) toward the axle, leveling the body out in relation to the chassis. it doesnt limit your ability to flex, it controls the chassis during the usable flex.

i am convinced that i have made obstacles that other folks in my group have failed at b/c of the antirock. its really the only think that was different between the jeeps.

the antirock keeps more of the bodys weight on all the tires... more of the bodys weight on the tires = more traction.

i cant stress that it doesnt limit flex like a OEM anti-sway bar.

ill never run any jeep without an anti-sway bar of some sort again.
I meant it how you said it, I just didn't say it right! haha. I can definitely see what you're saying there, but still don't know if I would prefer it.

So let's say you have your R/F HIGH up on a boulder and all 3 others relatively on flat ground. (a common situation for me). Without the antirock my jeeps tub would be more level (with the ground) and MORE weight would actually be on the R/R. With the antirock it would be pulling my chassis down toward the L/F causing my tub to be angled more in plane with the axle and shifting weight AWAY from the R/R. I just don't see why I would prefer that. Unless I'm just totally over-estimated it's effects on the chassis and it's much more subtle than my example.

I know I should just get it and be happy, but I always have to question things for some reason.

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post #362 of 4885 Old 01-09-2013, 08:30 AM
jeepinhokie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
I meant it how you said it, I just didn't say it right! haha. I can definitely see what you're saying there, but still don't know if I would prefer it.

So let's say you have your R/F HIGH up on a boulder and all 3 others relatively on flat ground. (a common situation for me). Without the antirock my jeeps tub would be more level (with the ground) and MORE weight would actually be on the R/R. With the antirock it would be pulling my chassis down toward the L/F causing my tub to be angled more in plane with the axle and shifting weight AWAY from the R/R. I just don't see why I would prefer that. Unless I'm just totally over-estimated it's effects on the chassis and it's much more subtle than my example.

I know I should just get it and be happy, but I always have to question things for some reason.
in that situation wouldnt the jeep lean over to the left taking weight off the right rear?

another option would be stop posing on the largest rocks you can find....
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post #363 of 4885 Old 01-09-2013, 12:29 PM
yellow_snocone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
in that situation wouldnt the jeep lean over to the left taking weight off the right rear?

another option would be stop posing on the largest rocks you can find....
Thats a horrible request why would you ask that

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post #364 of 4885 Old 01-09-2013, 01:05 PM
jeepinhokie
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2.5" OME lift (stock control arm up front, stock track bar) with antirock (links were cut down to fit the low lift height)

= plenty of flex



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post #365 of 4885 Old 01-09-2013, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
in that situation wouldnt the jeep lean over to the left taking weight off the right rear?

another option would be stop posing on the largest rocks you can find....
Blasphemy !!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow_snocone View Post
Thats a horrible request why would you ask that



Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
2.5" OME lift (stock control arm up front, stock track bar) with antirock (links were cut down to fit the low lift height)

= plenty of flex



Agreed that's plenty of flex. Looking at the photo and just thinking very simply about what a sway bar is..... Here's what I think it's doing in this situation. As the L/F goes up bringing the left arm on the sway bar up, it begins to resist the R/F going down and tries to keep the chassis pulled towards the axle. Wouldn't this provide LESS traction for the R/F by reducing the amount of weight on the tire? Now the R/R probably has the most weight on it in this situation and therefore the greatest amount of traction so I doubt the sway bar is having much influence on it. The L/R however is also being lightened by the sway bar pulling the chassis weight towards the R/F, also resulting in LESS traction in my mind. I can see how having a connection like this on all 4 corners would basically PULL and distribute the weight as evenly as possible, especially if the suspension is flexing front and rear. I can see very obvious benefits to this driving at any rate of speed or side hill. But I still fail to see how I would benefit from it rock crawling. I guess it's an "overall" improvement with no measurable decrease in rock crawling ability, but at the same time no measurable increase?? Maybe situational..... might help sometimes and might hurt others.

Thanks for helping me try to understand though! I'm left handed and a red head in my defense and rarely "get" it.
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post #366 of 4885 Old 01-10-2013, 05:34 AM
jeepinhokie
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Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Agreed that's plenty of flex. Looking at the photo and just thinking very simply about what a sway bar is..... Here's what I think it's doing in this situation. As the L/F goes up bringing the left arm on the sway bar up, it begins to resist the R/F going down and tries to keep the chassis pulled towards the axle. Wouldn't this provide LESS traction for the R/F by reducing the amount of weight on the tire? Now the R/R probably has the most weight on it in this situation and therefore the greatest amount of traction so I doubt the sway bar is having much influence on it. The L/R however is also being lightened by the sway bar pulling the chassis weight towards the R/F, also resulting in LESS traction in my mind. I can see how having a connection like this on all 4 corners would basically PULL and distribute the weight as evenly as possible, especially if the suspension is flexing front and rear. I can see very obvious benefits to this driving at any rate of speed or side hill. But I still fail to see how I would benefit from it rock crawling. I guess it's an "overall" improvement with no measurable decrease in rock crawling ability, but at the same time no measurable increase?? Maybe situational..... might help sometimes and might hurt others.

Thanks for helping me try to understand though! I'm left handed and a red head in my defense and rarely "get" it.
the way i think about it in my mind.. looking at the side shot, if the body/frame were allowed to roll further to the passenger side (ie. no anti roll bar) i would have lifted the left rear much earlier on the ramp, resulting in less usable flex all around.

I would be interested in seeing what happned if i disconnected the antirock and attempted the RTI ramp again... but thats probably not going to happen. would be interesting though.
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post #367 of 4885 Old 01-10-2013, 09:03 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepinhokie View Post
the way i think about it in my mind.. looking at the side shot, if the body/frame were allowed to roll further to the passenger side (ie. no anti roll bar) i would have lifted the left rear much earlier on the ramp, resulting in less usable flex all around.

I would be interested in seeing what happned if i disconnected the antirock and attempted the RTI ramp again... but thats probably not going to happen. would be interesting though.
Well just think about what would happen if the rate of the sway bar was increased? Think about if the rate was as high as the stock sway bar.....as the rate increased the L/R would lift up higher and higher and the tub angle would become more and more severe.

I think for me as long as my springs are under tension at full shock extension all of my flex is "usable" so to speak. So i'm just going to be good with that for now and keep the antirock research and understanding going until it sinks into my thick head!
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post #368 of 4885 Old 01-11-2013, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
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Got my Iggee's today. Pretty satisfied with them. looking forward to when they are broken in and trained better. Fit is good though and material is the best i've ever seen on a "cover". I took out the seats for install to make things easier and to clean up my interior a bit.

All dirty!


Faded cloth rear seat, Faded Rugged Ridge bottoms (waste of money) and torn factory vinyl.


Simple Green to the rescue...


And looking pretty good for a cold install. Really cleaned up the interior I think.


Got my CO2 kit also.... gonna work on that tommorow.
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post #369 of 4885 Old 01-12-2013, 05:53 AM
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Nice ! I haven't seen that brand . They look much nicer than any seat cover I have seen in a Jeep .
Now go order your anti-rock .

Free stickers and picture hosting at Jeep-Owner.com
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post #370 of 4885 Old 01-12-2013, 11:04 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
Nice ! I haven't seen that brand . They look much nicer than any seat cover I have seen in a Jeep .
Now go order your anti-rock .
Thanks! And yeah yeah.... I know. I probably should. I wish I could just borrow one first!
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post #371 of 4885 Old 01-12-2013, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Thanks! And yeah yeah.... I know. I probably should. I wish I could just borrow one first!
If you buy one and decide you don't like it, you'll have no problem selling it.

Bob's boring build:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...build-1304260/

White Jeep club member #2003

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post #372 of 4885 Old 01-12-2013, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
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If you buy one and decide you don't like it, you'll have no problem selling it.
True, since I can't find one used, they must hold there value!

Got my CO2 tank mounted up today. Worked out pretty good I think. I had to fab up some small spacers to go between the bracket and the tub to space it out for my cable attachment for the swag tailgate kit. Easy stuff though.

I bought the 10lb. CO2 KIT from PolyPerformane. I wasn't willing to spend powertank money but was going back and forth between this and the Smittybilt. I'm not sure if I made the right choice! The Smittybilt is $225 right now with free shipping / no tax. It just does not come with any kind of bracket. The Poly one was $240 but I paid shipping and tax on it. The smitty comes with an adjustable regulator, quick release coupling and a nice hose. The poly comes with a fixed regulator, no quick release, and a TERRIBLE cheap hard harbor freight type yellow hose, that is surprisingly a VIAIR hose. I hate it! And just the fact that I had to run to the hardware store to buy some couplings for a quick disconnect irritates me. (I didn't know the hose was going to suck, or that no couplings were included). I should have just bought the Smitty and bought a bracket, or just pieced it together with a good powertank hose. Oh well, aluminum cylinders look cool though! I can't wait to fill this sucker up and use it!









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post #373 of 4885 Old 01-12-2013, 05:14 PM
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I bought a Powertank bracket for like $30+shipping, a fixed 150 psi regulator with quick disconnect from Outback Air for $50, you can get almost any size aluminum tank on Amazon for $80, and I topped it off with a 10' Goodyear air hose from Harbor Freight for less than $20. Just sayin... All in all, it ended up costing me well under $200, and it's the exact same thing.
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post #374 of 4885 Old 01-12-2013, 05:15 PM
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Nicely done! Not a fan of how you have your CB coax routed though.

Bob's boring build:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/b...build-1304260/

White Jeep club member #2003

www.norcal-jeeps.com
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post #375 of 4885 Old 01-12-2013, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
gst95dsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrallen View Post
I bought a Powertank bracket for like $30+shipping, a fixed 150 psi regulator with quick disconnect from Outback Air for $50, you can get almost any size aluminum tank on Amazon for $80, and I topped it off with a 10' Goodyear air hose from Harbor Freight for less than $20. Just sayin... All in all, it ended up costing me well under $200, and it's the exact same thing.
I hear ya, believe me I pieced it out several times. What you listed is already $180 though, without shipping.... and I wasn't finding any $80 tanks, or $30 actual powertank brackets. Good on you though for getting some good deals! My totals were in the 220 range piecing together so I figured I'd save some hassle and just order a "kit". Only disappointment really was cheap air hose and no disconnect.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Nicely done! Not a fan of how you have your CB coax routed though.
Thanks... and YES I agree... it was one of those temp things that's going on two years!... But you know what, you just motivated me to fix it! Off to the garage.
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