Nate's 2002 TJ, simple but effective.... - Page 236 - JeepForum.com

 
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post #3526 of 4892 Old 12-11-2013, 12:23 PM
elclipo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Danno6102 View Post
Yep! & Yep! I think 2"x1/4" wall DOM was about $12 a foot. You can usually get drops a lot cheaper on their sale days.
2"x1/4" DOM is about that much here too, when they have it

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post #3527 of 4892 Old 12-11-2013, 07:43 PM Thread Starter
gst95dsm
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Not taking photos today because time is short…… but the 3rd link is assembled, clearances have been checked, frame and axle mount are burned in, and now it's just time slow down and clean everything up, paint and assemble. I'll be a bit more detailed on several of my hangups today later on. Tate's got a jazz band performance tonight!


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post #3528 of 4892 Old 12-11-2013, 07:53 PM
JJeeper09
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gst95dsm
Not taking photos today because time is short…… but the 3rd link is assembled, clearances have been checked, frame and axle mount are burned in, and now it's just time slow down and clean everything up, paint and assemble. I'll be a bit more detailed on several of my hangups today later on. Tate's got a jazz band performance tonight!
You and Tate work fast!


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post #3529 of 4892 Old 12-11-2013, 08:10 PM
G Beasley
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Nice looking work happening in the 'ate garage .

Free stickers and picture hosting at Jeep-Owner.com
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post #3530 of 4892 Old 12-11-2013, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
gst95dsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JJeeper09 View Post
You and Tate work fast!
Quote:
Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
Nice looking work happening in the 'ate garage .
Thanks fellas…. well y'all know how I am by now…. I try not to ever actually rush, but I do get a little zealous when theres work to be done.


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post #3531 of 4892 Old 12-12-2013, 12:04 AM Thread Starter
gst95dsm
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Just a few photos of the shenanigans today, The frame mount for the upper link worked out pretty good. In the top hole I have 7" of separation, any higher and I was getting into the motor mount at full hard bump.



This was my first attempt at setting the link mount on the axle. This is full bump and guess what???? Hitting the fan. It was a simple fix of moving it to the passenger side a 1/2 inch and a little more back. What I lost in doing that was perfect neutrality in the joints on the 3rd link. I don't foresee an issue as it's only a slight adjustment but still annoyed me because I could have avoided the issue altogether if I had been paying better attention to the Clayton 3 link bridge. I didn't realize that it's actually D44 specific in that it's height is set to rest nicely atop the D44 (larger) pumpkin. When used on a D30 it sit's at least an inch higher than the pumpkin. I COULD have cut that amount off the bridge and lowered it. JeremyG brought this to my attention……. only about 2 hours to late. I burned that thing in every which way so it's staying where it's at, and everything is fine, but I wish that thought would have crossed my mind.





After a couple retacks and double checks I was able to burn in the link mount.



Ok so that's where I'm at…… now it's time to clean everything up, paint it and carefully re-assemble it.

The garage was getting a little out of hand so I took an hour after Tate's performance (he killed it!) to CLEAN. It was the highlight of my day.

White Lightening



Junk ready to be cleaned and painted tomorrow



My favorite place besides wheeling….



Wheewww….. been a long day!


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post #3532 of 4892 Old 12-12-2013, 02:17 AM
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You could still do this....

Cut the welds for the upper link mount on top of the bridge, cut a section out of the bridge, lower the mount down and burn it in. Just leave enough room for the bolt and you're golden. That wouldn't be too tough to do. What do you link length and separation numbers look like right now?

OlllllllO

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post #3533 of 4892 Old 12-12-2013, 07:54 AM
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Nate You already know my suggestions and for the record even on the D44 that truss should be lowered flat against the diff. It takes lots of cutting to get it right and I have learnt the hard way that custom off the shelf parts are just that, you have to customize it if you want to maximize your results...At the very least, when you cycle the suspension are you getting any bind at your tracbar?
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post #3534 of 4892 Old 12-12-2013, 09:57 AM Thread Starter
gst95dsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
You could still do this....

Cut the welds for the upper link mount on top of the bridge, cut a section out of the bridge, lower the mount down and burn it in. Just leave enough room for the bolt and you're golden. That wouldn't be too tough to do. What do you link length and separation numbers look like right now?
I'm not going to dwell on the upper link to much, I've got clearance at full bump hard bump now, and the link is only slightly off of neutral. Your suggestion is a good one though and probably what I'll do if some reason this doesn't work out.

I'm looking at right around 29" links (all 3), 7" of separation at the frame and 10.5" separation on the axle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg View Post
Nate You already know my suggestions and for the record even on the D44 that truss should be lowered flat against the diff. It takes lots of cutting to get it right and I have learnt the hard way that custom off the shelf parts are just that, you have to customize it if you want to maximize your results...At the very least, when you cycle the suspension are you getting any bind at your tracbar?
I'm not getting any bind with the track bar, keep in mind though Jeremy that this parameter didn't change. Same shocks, same bumps. Travel hasn't changed.


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post #3535 of 4892 Old 12-12-2013, 11:58 AM
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->Horse.
Okay the last you will hear from me in this subject. When you modify link length/placement and vertical separation you modify the way the pinion tracks so either more or less caster change. My only concern was if you were binding the trackbar. Sounds like your not.
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post #3536 of 4892 Old 12-12-2013, 12:22 PM Thread Starter
gst95dsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jermeyg
->Horse. Okay the last you will hear from me in this subject. When you modify link length/placement and vertical separation you modify the way the pinion tracks so either more or less caster change. My only concern was if you were binding the trackbar. Sounds like your not.
I'm following now Jeremy. And to better answer your question, the caster change is minimal, I've yet to actually measure it but considering I'm coming from radius arms that change the caster angle a monumental amount, my track bar is quite happy with the change.


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post #3537 of 4892 Old 12-12-2013, 01:01 PM
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nate, how far are you from chula vista/san diego, CA??
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post #3538 of 4892 Old 12-12-2013, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
gst95dsm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duc202
nate, how far are you from chula vista/san diego, CA??
I'm about 5/6 hours away from there.


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post #3539 of 4892 Old 12-12-2013, 02:42 PM
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Nice work.

It's very nice to work in a clean space. I try to take some time to clean and organize during a project. Helps clear the head and is much easier to work in.


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post #3540 of 4892 Old 12-12-2013, 02:56 PM
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I seriously need to send all my work to you. You are way faster at getting stuff done.

Looks good too. Im going to keep the clayton bridge in mind.
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