Now I need to ask for the consensus about cooling, everything Iíve ready says a 2 core aluminum radiator is fine, do I go with duel electric fans or a single?
You guys with V8ís, what temps are you seeing with normal driving? Is there any reason to vent the engine bay on the fenders or the hood? Keep in mind Iím down in south Texas where the average summertime temps can be 95 degrees.
I went with the single flexilite fan for the yj's and modified it to fit my novak radiator. It works real well. Yes I would consider venting the hood or side panels. I notice after I stop, the fan will kick on a few times while it sits unless I open the hood. I have not yet vented anything but I definately am.
I have a couple questions. First what kind of blaster do you have...I'm in the market rite now to buy a blaster and my boss wants to go in on with me...I'm buying it to blast the frame axles tub ect....
Second question..when blasting the axles or trans how did you ensure not to get sand in the no no areas???
how did you ensure not to get sand in the no no areas???
That's a good question! It seems to find it's way into your underwear even with coveralls on. Don't dismantle anything from the rear unless you plan to strip it completely. I already made that mistake... I was admiring the fresh paint job I just completed when I decided to give the pinion a spin - and of course, it was packed with sand and made my axle build cost much more than anticipated. Ouch!
I have a tip blaster - they are great if you can find a used one since they went out of business due to old age, not tool quality. I think good air supply is probably more imortant though - I finally bumped up to an 11 CFM IR and that makes a big difference.
Thanks Provin for the links, Iíll check them out....The blaster I'm using is from Eastwood, their combo soda/media pressure pot blaster. You will need about 8 CFM to run; you can run 2 compressors in tandem as I did. I must stress deliver the driest air you can to the pressure pot; otherwise you will be fighting the blaster clogging. On warm, high humidity days it was easier to use a cheap craftsman siphon feed.
I taped, then plastic bagged, then taped again the seals on the axle before blasting, it took longer to remove the all the tape than it did to blast.
I just finished a beach trip with the family too! I think you will need to mock up mounting tabs for that radiator, but that is easy enough. I'll post any info I find for you since you're nice enough to lead me through this...
I got a nice GRIFFIN radiator at Summit for under $200. I took it to a local welder and had some brackets welded on the side. I mimic'ed the brackets on the Jeep radiator.
The welder didn't do the curves, just straight pieces of aluminum. I notched for the headlights myself.
My suggestion is to make sure that the driver's side bracket is WIDE and that the passenger's side is THIN just like the stock brackets are. You must do this because the bottom of the radiator is about 1/4" or so away from the steering gear when you shove the rad over toward the passenger side as far as possible. It is seriously tight down there.
Let me see if I can find any "finished" pics of the rad with brackets. I think I forgot to take them.
My research has led me to belive that the angle of the engine should be level to 3 degrees of back tilt? Dead level leaves me 3 1/2 inches above the skid plate after removing the drop kit on the skid plate. Do I just fab up a 3 1/2 inch spacer?