Yeah I am hoping to be back to normal functionality soon. I am finally getting some movement in my wrist again. But its most definitely still healing so I have to remember to take things slow and easy and not push myself. Which is very hard for me.
I have made some progress over the past few days on some little stuff though.
I got to prime my front grille yesterday, I'm hoping to sand and paint it this afternoon. Working on installing a new heater core because its out now and I don't want to deal with it later. My luck it would blow right after I get the dash back in and all wired up. My fuel injectors came in and they are on the fuel rail, still have a few questions on those, they have plastic caps on the end that will not allow it to fully seat and seal, maybe I just need to push more but I don't want to hurt something so I'm awaiting an answer from the place I purchased them from. Got my Artec truss in the other day...all I can say about that is strait up beef, this thing is a perfectly crafted monster, really looking forward to getting it all set up over the next week or so. Also picked up a Rokmen Rear coil spring and adjustable bumpstop correction kit from a guy here on the board. So when I do my axle Ill get that done. One less thing to do down the road. Although I wish I had done this when it was just a frame, now I have to repaint the back end, not looking forward to that. Ill get some pictures of everything today.
Going to try and pull my 8.8 and start striping it this weekend or work on installing the grille if its dry and begin laying in the wiring harness. Also have to set the motor to TDC, prime the oil pump, and put the spark plug wires and distributed in. lol Not to mention the dash and all the fun that goes along with installing that. And the transfer case shifter. I'm going to stop thinking about everything I have to do still because I'm sure I could go on forever.
Honestly asap, but at the same time I don't plan on driving it during the winter, but a few runs in the snow before salt hits the ground would be fun. Like any project I take three steps forward one step back lol I'm hoping over the next few months that will change.
Next came time to remove the brackets on the axle that where way off from where they should have been. My brother was over so he helped me get those removed.
It took much longer then I expected to get everything cut off and cleaned up. But it got done.
I just tossed the upper part of the truss on to see how it lined up and it fit perfectly. The keyed truss system they have is really nice, definitely allows for a easy set up.
After playing with that for a bit and checking out what was going to be trimmed and adjusted on the housing itself, I turned my attention to the next big thing...the Rokmen rear spring re-locators.
This is how the spring looked before.
The curve in the spring does nothing good for anyone, so on to cutting.
First up is the tub, I raised it up just with a 2x4 to get extra working room on the inside frame rail. That extra little bit made all the difference
Its a tight fit cutting on the inside of the frame but a Dremel did work alright.
Only about half way through here.
After that I moved on to the outside of the frame and used a cut off wheel and a chisel to remove the rest.
Cleaned up the frame rail and it was ready for installation.
Didn't really get any pictures of the truss getting tacked up but really its not needed. We just tacked the major things together and slid the axle under the Jeep and bolted everything up to make sure, A. that everything fit, B. that clearance was not going to be an issue and C. to center the bump stop.
Clearly you can see how much the spring has been able to straighten out now that the perch has been moved.
And now that bump stop and the pad will actually hit one another where as before they would miss...making the rear bump stops completely useless.
That is almost at full compression and I still have about 1.5 inches of shock left which is what I was looking for.
The rear differential cover is...well...close. lol
We'll have to see what happens on the road.
One other thing I did was cut the abs sensor housing surround down a bit and make a block off plate for sway bar clearance.
and I used a band saw to make my life simple for cutting.
First thing you need to pull the seals and bearings out of each side of the axle and stuff a rag in the tube to catch the shavings for the cut.
Next make your cut, remember to leave the shoulder on.
Clean up the edge of the tube use files to deburr the edges.
Next take the bearing race, bolts, spacers and nuts and loosely place them on the axle. Don't forget to add some silicon to back side of the bearing race to seal it against the housing.
Tighten in a x-cross pattern until bearing race is fully seated.
At this time you can usually put on the backing plates, but I didn't bother because I still have painting on the axle to take care of.
Next its off the the press.
Stacking order is
Press everything together and then check for fitment.
Install the wheel studs with some red loctight and 90 ft lbs in your correct bolt pattern
Yeah its a tight fit that's for sure. Ill measure the depth of the solid cover so you can compare it to yours. The control arms are just about 1/2 inch longer then stock and it clears. As soon as my new order of rust bullet shows up tomorrow and I paint the frame, I'll get the axle bolted up and rerun the axle movement and check for clearance again. I also need to check and make sure my tires will stay out of my rear guards at full twist.
I'd like to paint my grille tomorrow morning if the weather is good. I'm just hoping the paint dries faster this time then it did last time. I'm using tractor paint from Tractor Supply, it takes along time to dry but does seem to hold up very well. I really want to get the front end buttoned up so I can really start wiring things under the hood.
I do still need to cut my hood... I keep putting it off maybe I'll try and do it as well tomorrow. I'm just nervous about making the cut wrong... Kinda funny seeing how much work I've done yet I'm nervous about cutting the hood. Lol
So I haven't made much progress since my last post. I did try giving my hood the cut, which the initial three inch cuts came out very nice. It was that pesky second angle cut I completely botched up. Instead of cutting on a flat plane my stupid head thought an arched cut would be a good idea...sufficely to say I picked up a new hood for $25 I'm going to try again this week.
On another note, my rear axle is all painted and bolted in under my Jeep. I just have to check & re-check the pinion angle, then order a rear drive shaft and that will officially be put to bed.
Other things that need to be done. Start laying the wiring harness into the engine bay, dash and body, install radiator, gas filler neck (cant seem to find one of these anywhere) check torque on every suspension bolt, prelube oil pump and motor, set timing, install transfer case shifter, wire the head lights new turn signals and brake lights.
Thanks guys for the complements its been along process but I'm almost there. I'm glad that my contributions have motivated others to work on there own Jeeps.
I have made some progress over the past few weeks, I've installed all the wiring and dash is mostly in, its kind of funny how long simple wiring takes even though I had every single plug marked. I still have to rewire the new lights in the grille and the new taillights. I am waiting on some LED's for my front markers and my reverse lights as well. I modified and mounted the passenger side fuse box and drivers side fuel system on the fenders. Ill get some pictures up over the next day or so with the mounting locations so ppl can have a reference for the Rokmen fenders. Finally got and installed the rear sway bar links as well.
I think I also have come up with another idea for my intake but more on that later if I can make it work.