A little while back I pulled the fan shroud off my radiator and found it was junk, one of the spot welds had let go on the bottom and it had separated. At that moment I was not very happy about it.
Fast forward to yesterday when I took it down to a local guy that has been repairing radiators for over 40 years and he explained the ins and outs of cheaper replacement radiators and the junk materials they use. When I purchased this I thought I was getting A. A good deal and B. Not a cheap replacement.
He made a few phone calls for me gave me two numbers one to rebuild the one I had ($537) or a new aluminum USA made one ($210). I opted for the aluminum.
I was expecting to pick up a "decent" radiator from him because the cost was only $210. I'm happy to say that I'm very glad my other radiator broke. This new radiator he got me is almost double the thickness of my "stock replacement" it seems like. I definitely don't have to worry about this falling apart. Also combined with my F.A.L. fan this should do one heck of a job cooling the motor.
Next came time to remove the brackets on the axle that where way off from where they should have been. My brother was over so he helped me get those removed.
It took much longer then I expected to get everything cut off and cleaned up. But it got done.
I just tossed the upper part of the truss on to see how it lined up and it fit perfectly. The keyed truss system they have is really nice, definitely allows for a easy set up.
After playing with that for a bit and checking out what was going to be trimmed and adjusted on the housing itself, I turned my attention to the next big thing...the Rokmen rear spring re-locators.
This is how the spring looked before.
The curve in the spring does nothing good for anyone, so on to cutting.
First up is the tub, I raised it up just with a 2x4 to get extra working room on the inside frame rail. That extra little bit made all the difference
Its a tight fit cutting on the inside of the frame but a Dremel did work alright.
Only about half way through here.
After that I moved on to the outside of the frame and used a cut off wheel and a chisel to remove the rest.
Cleaned up the frame rail and it was ready for installation.
So, Iíve had the flu this week and I have had basically no motivation to work on the Jeep so I thought I would do a little write-up about my new custom sound bar that I have been working on to replace my sound bar that housed two 6.5 JL Audio subs and two Pioneer 6.5ís. This new build will be housing a set of Polk 6.5ís and a Pioneer 8 inch subwoofer.
This is what I plan on running for audio equipment (unless CES 2014 offers up something better)
Head Unit: Alpine CDE-HD149BT
Amp: Alpine PDX-5
Front Speakers: Polk Audio MM521
Rear Speakers: Polk Audio MM651
Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-SW841D
To start this build off, I needed to strip the sound bar down, which was quite easy this time because apparently the glue guy at the factory was being a bit stingy, Iím not complaining, it made my life easier. Obviously I removed the speakers, lights and then pulled the outer cover off along with thick and thin foam off.
Next was to remove the section of metal where I would be building the frame of the sub enclosure. I choose to put the sub on the driverís side, so passengers in the back would not hit their heads getting in and out. I only needed three cuts because one side was only held in by a slotted/bent tab arrangement.
Next I cut three pieces of mdf to build out the walls of the enclosure. I did these a little over sized and slowly sanded them down for a nice sung fit.
Next I moved on to the base of the enclosure, I started with paper and then transferred it to Masonite and curved the sharp edge to the angle I wanted.
Happy with the fitment of the three sides I glued them in place with two part glue. If you notice I positioned the wood only half way under the metal. I did this so I would have something to staple the fabric for the top of the enclosure to. I also prepped the painted area so the adhesive would bite in for a nice strong hold for the base of the enclosure. Youíll see four holes drilled in it as well. I did that so I could bolt the base in while the glue set up.
Next I built the frame to hold the sub and test fit it for clearances. Everything looked good so I glued it all in place. You can see in the second picture that the four holes that I had drilled for holding the base in place have been filled in. By this time the glue had dried up and was more than strong enough to hold the structure. You will also notice that on the right side of the sound bar, along the metal, I drilled many small holes. These holes will act as anchor points for the fabric to be glued to allowing me to create the shape of the enclosure. The speaker ring has also had a slight change; that being the small lip I routed into it so I had a place staple the fabric down leaving a nice smooth finished edge in the end for the speaker to mount to.
Here is the fabric all stapled/glued down and ready for fiberglass resin. I keep saying fabric, what this is, is unbacked speaker box carpet. It stretches in every direction and after it is soaked with resin you end up with an extremely rigid shell.
I popped it onto the roll bar real quick to see how it would look. It will be a nice clean fit, sort of hiding in plain sight.
Mixed up the fiberglass resin and soaked the fabric, let things cure up and then sanded it down.
I then added some Rage Gold body filler and sanded it down again, slapped on a quick layer of paint and that is where is sits now.
My plan to finish the sound bar is to wrap the speaker side with vinyl and then create a top cap to attach to it covering the wires leaving a clean finished custom sound bar. I will add my finishing steps to this when itís complete.
Truly an awesome build! great attention to detail throughout
No joke, your build is almost an exact twin to mine just a few minor changes to parts specs... and I'm keeping my stock motor until next winter since I wont have time before wheeling season starts. Keep the progress coming, hopefully you're done with your flu's, colds, cuts and broken bones now
I was just looking at this to do on my frame today. Thinking it over. I was going to try a rethread. Did not know there was such a product out there, as the nutserts that you used.
whiskeywiz Thanks for all the comments.
Yeah hoping the guy doesn't even notice. But its massively stronger then what was in its place. Plus in CT they just focus on emissions, fingers crossed.
The nutserts where not as bad as I thought they would be. Granted the frame was upside down so that made it very easy. But you should be able to hammer it out in short order with it being just a rolling chassis like it is.
The rear grab handles should help keep trees just the much further away from my top and or body/fender flare...if I have to run rear flares again fingers crossed that I don't have to. I might just slap a set on for inspection.
And yes I am currently mended and spend the weekend in the garage working on the finishing touches. My rear drive shaft should be in tomorrow, so hopefully that'll get on.
Trying, I repeat trying to start her up for the first time. Does not seem to want to run. Let the trouble shooting begin.
Have oil pressure thankfully
Set number one to TDC
Aligned distributor cap to just before the number one contact
Plugs and wires worked when they came out of my Jeep, but new ones are going in a just a few minutes
Coil is new
Fuel is at the rail, and seems to be flowing (exhaust has the exhausty smell )
Seems to be burping and coughing a bit
There is only air going into the intake, no exhaust coming out of it...anything anyone can think of would be helpful
If so setting it up on TDC will not work. There is an index hole in the bottom of the distributor. Align the 1 cyl on TDC, pull the distributor and install a drill bit or something similar in the indexing hole and reinstall the distributor. Then remove the drill bit and tighten down distributor. I went though the very same problem on mine. This is the ONLY way to get it in time.
Fuel is 10 gallons of brand new high test so I know I'm good there.
And yes the distributor did come out as everything is basically new on/in the motor.
I replaced the crank sensor tonight just to remove that from the equation.
Fuel is 10 gallons of brand new high test so I know I'm good there. And yes the distributor did come out as everything is basically new on/in the motor. I replaced the crank sensor tonight just to remove that from the equation.
Then remove it and reinstall it the way I explained. I went through this very same problem on my build when I started Dumpster for the very first time.
Alright so a little bit of an update
I haven't had time to try starting it again since Sunday but with our wonderful snow storm today, I'm going to try again. I'll see if I can capture it on film.
Last Sat. I spent the morning removing the inner valve springs for the cam break in, tightening all the hardware for the front suspension, painting small parts, trimming my front track bar mount to clear my JKS quick disco's and breaking torx bit's (5 of them to be exact, and broken bit's not stripped bolts oddly enough) and drilling out a few bolts on my rear door to add the 3/16 shims to match everything up with my rear guards. Easy-outs are a great tool.
I also added all the fluids to...well everything. My intake filter and diesel oil from AMSOIL for after the break in period will be here on Friday.
ITS ALIVE!!! After 2.5 years in the making it took its first gulp of air today. Had some bright red headers and a pissed off ecm but it learned to deal
Come to find out, the distributor has two "keying up" locators, and from the factory the pin that came in it was in the wrong location. It's all sorted out now and after the 30 min break in, it was running nice and smooth. Just put fresh break in oil in and a new filter. Now its time to re-install the inner valve springs and and run it again.