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Unread 03-31-2012, 03:16 PM   #181
CrawlingForward
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CTeunuch View Post
I'd keep your eye on the ring gear, but I don't imagine you'll be breaking anymore teeth with a 4cyl. Have you run the pattern? I'm sorry if we went over this, I can't remember. Are you not going to run a locker now?

Also, pretty sure I spotted the Islander today on 38 when I was headed home.
Ha ha, yup! She specifically mentioned your when she came home, actually. She said that she thought she saw a huge Jeep, and was going to wave, but got confused at the last second, ha ha (She's never seen a jacked-up ZJ before)

You had advised me to run the pattern before, but I haven't yet. My plan was to do it right before we have to take the diff apart to do the seal anyhow, but mostly I'm just intimidated by it, ha ha. Where does one even get the specific paint around here, anyhow?

I'll update a bit more on Monday, but I finally got the dangerous extra shims out and put back in the rear DS and greased the joints, but no dice on getting rid of vibrations. A little better, but not much.

I still suspected it might be that my driveshaft is too long, and I *really* had to compress it for it to be able to fit back in. Is that normal? I'll post a pic of it later even though it's the same as before.

I also made a little progress on the axle, but I'll get that fully typed up later once I download the pictures.

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Unread 03-31-2012, 03:56 PM   #182
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Also, do you remember what it was like going from cassette tapes to CD? And you were like..."eh, yeah...I guess it's better", but then you went back to tapes and you were like "HOW THE HELL DID I EVER LIVE WITH THIS!!!!?!"

....yeah, that's what it's like with 4.10s to 4.88s when you have to switch back.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 04:09 PM   #183
CTeunuch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlingForward View Post
Ha ha, yup! She specifically mentioned your when she came home, actually. She said that she thought she saw a huge Jeep, and was going to wave, but got confused at the last second, ha ha (She's never seen a jacked-up ZJ before)

You had advised me to run the pattern before, but I haven't yet. My plan was to do it right before we have to take the diff apart to do the seal anyhow, but mostly I'm just intimidated by it, ha ha. Where does one even get the specific paint around here, anyhow?

I'll update a bit more on Monday, but I finally got the dangerous extra shims out and put back in the rear DS and greased the joints, but no dice on getting rid of vibrations. A little better, but not much.

I still suspected it might be that my driveshaft is too long, and I *really* had to compress it for it to be able to fit back in. Is that normal? I'll post a pic of it later even though it's the same as before.

I also made a little progress on the axle, but I'll get that fully typed up later once I download the pictures.

I'm not sure where to get gear paint around here. I asked Napa, and they didn't have any, not sure about other stores though. You can try using a magic marker, and laying it on thick, it's harder to read the pattern but it works. You could try white lithium grease from a tub too, but I'm not sure how well it would work.
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Unread 04-03-2012, 10:22 AM   #184
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Update on axle progress:

Wiped the axle down and cleaned it up



Then gave it a good first coat of Rustoleum's Rust Reformer. Stuff is awesome.



(Note the CAD housing isn't painted. That's because I'll probably just go with the stock one that's already hooked up and definitely working.)

Started prepping the knuckles for painting when I found this....



A closer look....



Crap. So that's what the kid meant when he said "the guy said it needs a new knuckle". He was kind of a N00B, so I figured he meant the seal was bleeding onto the knuckle.

Luckily, it's a straight swap, so I'll just grab one from my existing axle, quick Rust Reformer it, and then swap it over during the switch.

Balljoints just came in yesterday, but I'll wait until everything is painted to throw them in.




On the "everything else" front, the driveshaft vibrations are still leaving me at wits end. I do need to have the driveshaft cut down, as I've only got like 1/4" of room until full compression.

But after talking to Montrose and Tom Woods, that wouldn't cause any vibrations, so I'm going to save that expense for a later point.

Here is my final driveshaft angle. Damn near perfect (after talking to Montrose and Tom Woods, they both said not to worry about the t-case yoke, just that the shaft angle was 1-2* difference from the pinion angle. Anything under 4* should be fine.)



Since the driveshaft is balanced, angles are good, and I get no play out of the pinion or the t-case, the only thing that still hasn't been inspected and approved by a professional is the yoke.

Now if you recall, I got pissed because the yoke measured out to be a Ford big-cap style yoke, which according to the internet doesn't exist. There *are* however, a ton of 1350 8.8 options out there.

Everything looks like it fits and I get no play, but it's a 1/16 of an inch we're talking here, so that's my next suspicion is that my caliper isn't accurate or that the yoke dimensions are somehow deceptive of what u-joint belongs in it, and/or I suck at measuring in general.

So for your review, here are some pictures of the yoke with measurements. Did I mis-measure and it's a 1350? Or somehow 1330?









Thoughts?
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95 YJ, Rio Grande - The Wannabe Sleeper Wheeler
2010 JKU, Islander Edition - The Burly Stock Overlander

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Unread 04-03-2012, 11:10 AM   #185
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Also, you know you've been working on the Jeep too much when this happens:


That is a hole in the knee of my Duluth Trading Company Firehose pants. Things are made out of firehose canvas and damn near indestructable. And I put a hole in them this month.

Also, I really need to start making sure I managing my Jeep time well, as I accidentally picked up another volunteer freelance project, and to top off the list, here's my newest project for the next two weeks leading up the axle swap:



That little guy is Scout, and I'm watching him for a couple weeks while his owner is moving into a new place. He's got some major barking and anxiety issues that has the owner ready to strangle him, and since dog training is a major interest of mine, I offered to take him for a couple weeks and see if I could work with him. So an hour walk every morning, an hour walk in the afternoons, plus an hour or more of training every night. Sh*t adds up.

So with two Jeeps, two motorcycles, three dogs, a full-time job and freelance jobs as well.....I have a very understanding wife, ha ha.
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Unread 04-04-2012, 07:49 PM   #186
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Is it possible just to swap the pinion yoke on the axle? I think that would have been easier than finding a "non-existent" u-joint.
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Unread 04-05-2012, 01:03 PM   #187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaxManClay View Post
Is it possible just to swap the pinion yoke on the axle? I think that would have been easier than finding a "non-existent" u-joint.
Well I feel like an ***.

For some reason it's been in my head that changing the yoke would mean re-setting up the gears. Upon actually thinking about it, I realize that of course it doesn't. (I've changed yokes before, I have no idea why I was thinking it was an issue)

Even with that knowledge, I'm not sure I would have changed it out originally, as I've been trying to keep the budget down on this. Ironic, however, because if I have to buy a second u-joint, I'll be halfway to the cost of a new yoke that could have just used my original u-joint.

I'd rather not have to buy a new yoke, but I'm meeting with Montrose Machine tonight to take a look at the yoke and whether my driveshaft needs to be cut down. Hopefully I'll have something good to report tomorrow.
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Unread 04-05-2012, 02:14 PM   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawlingForward View Post
Update on axle progress:




Since the driveshaft is balanced, angles are good, and I get no play out of the pinion or the t-case, the only thing that still hasn't been inspected and approved by a professional is the yoke.

Thoughts?
Is that a crack I see there in the yoke or is that just a scratch in the finish? If that is indeed a crack, that could be part of the cause of the vibes. Good call on having the yoke inspected. Most of us are jacks of many, many trades and masters of none. Always nice to have a master offer an opinion.
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Unread 04-05-2012, 02:32 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hallsofstone View Post
Is that a crack I see there in the yoke or is that just a scratch in the finish? If that is indeed a crack, that could be part of the cause of the vibes. Good call on having the yoke inspected. Most of us are jacks of many, many trades and masters of none. Always nice to have a master offer an opinion.
Just a scratch in the relatively fresh paint, that I'll almost guarantee came from trying to get the DS back on. I need to get it cut down, as I have to fully compress it and do some finagling to get it to fit back in.

Hopefully getting that figured out this afternoon as well!
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Unread 04-06-2012, 09:02 AM   #190
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Got it confirmed by a professional: I have a Unicorn of a pinion yoke.

Stopped by Montrose last night and they confirmed that it's a 1330 special, both by measurements, u-bolts sizes and by trying a 1330 and a 1350 u-joint.

Since the angles looks right and there's no play, he offered to balance it again, free of charge, just to confirm that it was done right by their shop. I don't think it'll solve the issue, as the DS didn't have vibrations before the swap at equivalent DS rpms, but it'll be nice to confirm.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 01:00 PM   #191
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Further progress. The pictures should mostly speak for themselves!







(I did prime before the yellow, but I forgot to grab a picture)






The old seal next to the new seals (I haven't pulled the one next to the diff yet)


Painting is completely finished (except for perhaps the hardware and the steering components that will get hit with Rust Reformer the day of the swap). All that's left is to do the seals and the ball joints!
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Unread 04-09-2012, 01:13 PM   #192
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Also, I got the driveshaft back from Montrose on Friday (he let me watch the whole process and explained it all to me. Very cool!)

I finally got it put back in this morning and I can use 5th gear again! I still have slight vibrations above 60, but it's a world of difference from before.

I will probably eventually swap out the pinion yoke for a 1330 series, as I think that might be still part of the issue, and that way I'll have the same u-joint throughout the DS.
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Unread 04-09-2012, 01:42 PM   #193
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Hooray! I'm glad everything is starting to work out for you buddy! Now you can drive the Jeep to my recital.
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Unread 04-11-2012, 08:55 AM   #194
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Seals are in! (Thanks again, Ryan!)

Tried the whole making-a-press-with-a-threaded-rod thing, but after like 8 tries, it just kept seating identically crooked.





So we ended up pulling out the diff and using the allthread and socket as a driver to hammer them into place.

Note to anyone trying this in the future: for the CAD seal, a 1 1/2" works great, but the diff seal needs to be slightly smaller, about 1 7/16". It took a little finagling and placing the socket on the outside edges while hammering bit by bit all the way around, but it is now all seated and ready to rock!



Ball-joints tonight followed by paint touchups and I should be done until the swap!


Speaking of the swap, it is definitely on for this Saturday. A couple of you have suggested you might be available and would like to help.

If so, I would *really* love the help. We'll be working at my inlaws in Medford again, but hopefully a bit warmer this time, ha ha

Just let me know and I'll send you the details!
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2010 JKU, Islander Edition - The Burly Stock Overlander

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Unread 04-12-2012, 08:33 AM   #195
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Ball joints are in!

Piece of cake.



Painted diff bolts



Played with an adjustable steering stop setup

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2010 JKU, Islander Edition - The Burly Stock Overlander

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