Where are you guys planning to go on the run? I'll try to come and lend a hand when you do the front end, just give me some notice so I can keep the day open.
We haven't picked a trail yet, as we're waiting to see the level of the rigs that are planning on attending. Probably something stocker-challenging, but nothing epic.
The front end is scheduled for April 14th. I *finally* finished setting up the CSS and structure for my latest freelance project and I'm just waiting on content, so it can be full-speed ahead with the D30.
Nice, if you need a hand I'll plan to be there the 14th. Are you going to be working at your house this time?
No, I can work on the axles at the house, by my condo association likes to fine people for every little thing they can, especially if it's something like doing auto repair, which is specifically verbotten in the condo docs. F Me.
The actual swap will probably take place at my in-laws in Medford again.
Ok, so my updates have sucked lately, ha ha. I still haven't even gotten around to taking out the horribly dangerous stacked 8 degrees worth of shims in the back nor hooked back up the year driveshaft because, frankly, the Jeep is still running, while everything else mechanical has been blowing up, ha ha.
Hopefully sometime in the next couple nights I'll finally get around to that, but I'm enjoying driving highway in the meantime.
The fork seal literally took the whole weekend because the backup ring behind the seal had frozen to the slider with age and I had to buy a torch be be able to separate it and had to grind the ring to get everything back in, and even then everything got scratched to hell and will probably leak again soon. Suck.
Oh, and the test to see if my wife actually ever reads this.....Honey, I used the kitchen measuring cup to measure out Automatic Transmission Fluid for the fork.
With that over with, though, I finally got a chance to work on the axle last night! First thing I did was pulled the Central Axle Disconnect housing to clean it out, only to be confronted by this strange thing:
Nothing actually meshes into that, it's a bushing, I guess? The shaft directly sits and spins on it. I did some further reading and despite being completely confusing it *is*, in fact, supposed to be there. The only thing I can think of is why a bushing would be shaped like that is to allow the axleshaft to be supported but still allow fluid to flow past. Further more, it's the bushing for 90-95 YJs, narrowing down my donor axle year to 90-95.
This is what my passenger side axle seal looked like, btw. I think I figured out why it was leaking, ha ha.
And the inside of the tube....
Pulled out the seal
Cleaned everything up
Next came the knuckles
(About as dirty as my own knuckles)
Took out the steering stops (I'll need to put in new ones and adjust them once the axle is in)
And a few minutes later:
So now both knuckles are complete and the CAD is cleaned up with the seal out.
Next steps: remove old ball joints (I just ordered the new ball joints and u-bolts), grind down axle and diff cover, replace driver's side seal and clean tube in the process, then primer, paint, ball-joints.
I thought about it and I understand the principle, but honestly, I haven't had a lick of trouble with the CAD so far and with the stronger '95 shafts plus a spare set from the donor axle, it would just be another bunch of stuff to research/spend money on right now unnecessarily.
So it's not out of the realm of possibility, just not something I think I'm going to do deal with this time.
"Your order from 4 Wheel Drive Hardware has shipped"
That....is why I order from 4WD.com In addition to having lots of free shipping stuff, they almost always ship within a day or two.
Axle progress from last night:
Mostly just removed the ball joints.
Being as I have *really* bad spacial intelligence, it took me a bit to figure out how to properly set up the press, but once I thought it through, it was super easy.
A sign I've grown as a mechanic, btw, is that when I started having to put a lot of pressure on it, I stopped, re-examined how I had it set up, and fixed it. If you have to force it, you're doing it wrong.
Also continued to clean out the tubes last night. Note for anyone who wants to clean their own: a $4 toilet brush from Lowes works better than any other tool or system you could make or purchase!
Just *barely* fits, with lots of pressure between the stiff bristles and the sides. Twist it as you pull and you won't believe the amount of stuff that comes out!
Very happy to find out at the D30, when fully stripped, easily fits on my workbench!
This allowed me an easy, uninterrupted, and artificially lit work session that actually got the whole thing wirewheeled in one night! (I wasn't at all expecting this, as the 8.8 took 2 or 3 evenings. Partially because it was slathered in copious amounts of flaking POR-15, and partially because it took me a chunk of time to get it set up, and large chunk of time to break my middle-of-the-basement setup down and vacuum and wipe the walls, ha ha)
There's still quite a bit that the wire wheel couldn't get to (inside perches, sharp corners, etc.) but for the most part, all the flaking stuff is off and I'll be putting on a layer of Rust Reformer before the primer anyhow.
As I noted, the cover was very clearly pretty mashed up. Here are a couple pictures of the carnage:
As you can see, the edges of the diff have been almost smeared over...
So on the diff side, I remedied this with a quick passover of the edge with the grinder, just on the edge to make sure that something could sit flush on it.
The SOLID diff comes powedercoated, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to just scuff it up and then paint it to match the 8.8 cover. We'll see what time allows.
Also, I got a chance to check out the chipped tooth again. It's just the one and it was obviously old because the tooth was not in the cover when I got it. This isn't a ticking time-bomb or anything, right?
A bit of quick reading says that that kind of break, with a crystalline structure, is often the result of a shock load, which, considering it was previously locked and running 37s, is pretty easy to believe.
Next up should be a final cleaning/degreasing and then primer!
I'd keep your eye on the ring gear, but I don't imagine you'll be breaking anymore teeth with a 4cyl. Have you run the pattern? I'm sorry if we went over this, I can't remember. Are you not going to run a locker now?
Also, pretty sure I spotted the Islander today on 38 when I was headed home.
Think Twice Garage
"Yeah, that might work, pass me the grinder..."
94ZJ AX15/HP44/8.8/5.13's/35'' MTZ's SOLD
99XJ 4.0/AW4/HP30/8.25 build coming soon... www.undergroundjeeps.net