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Savvy/Currie Aluminum Control ArmsRockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits ZONE 4.25" combo lift for TJ available at Rockridge4w

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Unread 02-21-2013, 07:35 AM   #16
1999GOLDTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
Or get the 8.8 the perches are close enough that you can squeeze the springs in like 1/4 an inch and they work. Or link it instead of ruining a tj because you wanna do leafs because you think it's so much easier

Probably sent from under my broken heep
I didn't say i wanted to opt out for easy. Let me build my jeep, I should have stated in the beginning I didn't want to argue about leafs vs short arms vs long arms vs three link vs your best buddies triangulated set up
This works for me i have the knowledge and resources available and Im comfortable doing it!

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Unread 02-21-2013, 07:49 AM   #17
Ripper3494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999GOLDTJ View Post

I didn't say i wanted to opt out for easy. Let me build my jeep, I should have stated in the beginning I didn't want to argue about leafs vs short arms vs long arms vs three link vs your best buddies triangulated set up
This works for me i have the knowledge and resources available and Im comfortable doing it!
Actually the double triangulated 4 link is under mine

And that's fine I'll leave you alone about it I just figured I'd try to get you to think about it a little more, there's a reason jeep left leaf springs
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build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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Unread 02-21-2013, 07:49 AM   #18
reichard117
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buddy, let him build his jeep his way. no its not what you would do for yourself but after numerous posts from you, he still doesn't want your advice. he wants HIS jeep to be HIS own. im sure input is welcome but not harassment. just drop it.
- GOLDTJ- good luck with your build. a buddy of mine ran is 29 spline 8.25 on 35s hammering them for 200k+ miles and broke i believe one shaft. despite what everyone says, they are a great option especially if you are gonna go with your leaf setup. cjs/yjs came with leafs. they obviously work. roll with it man!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ripper3494 View Post
Or get the 8.8 the perches are close enough that you can squeeze the springs in like 1/4 an inch and they work. Or link it instead of ruining a tj because you wanna do leafs because you think it's so much easier

Probably sent from under my broken heep
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Unread 02-21-2013, 08:42 AM   #19
Jankoid
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I've considered doing a leaf swap on my TJ. I'm doing a 4 link though because I do think they are superior when set up correctly. However, I have seen some pretty crappy coil setups and some really good leaf setups. For the cost and ease of install leafs are absolutely a viable option for a stretch. The 8.25 is a decent axle as well. An 8.8 probably would be a better choice though (welding on spring perches is about the easiest part of a leaf swap).

I'm just gonna throw this out there for you. I don't like the btf kit because it becomes a permanent part of your jeep. If you decide you don't like the leafs you are stuck with that crossmember. When I was considering leafs I was gonna use this:

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....ductid=RBB1001

Its a plate reinforcement kit for the rear crossmember. I was gonna get some shackle hangers from ruffstuff and weld them on to it. Turns out being cheaper than the btf kit, and the rear shackle hangers are 100% bolt on. If you decide down the road that leafs aren't for you and you want coils, unbolt it and sell it as a kit.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:07 AM   #20
1999GOLDTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post
I've considered doing a leaf swap on my TJ. I'm doing a 4 link though because I do think they are superior when set up correctly. However, I have seen some pretty crappy coil setups and some really good leaf setups. For the cost and ease of install leafs are absolutely a viable option for a stretch. The 8.25 is a decent axle as well. An 8.8 probably would be a better choice though (welding on spring perches is about the easiest part of a leaf swap).

I'm just gonna throw this out there for you. I don't like the btf kit because it becomes a permanent part of your jeep. If you decide you don't like the leafs you are stuck with that crossmember. When I was considering leafs I was gonna use this:

http://www.genright.com/ProductInfo....ductid=RBB1001

Its a plate reinforcement kit for the rear crossmember. I was gonna get some shackle hangers from ruffstuff and weld them on to it. Turns out being cheaper than the btf kit, and the rear shackle hangers are 100% bolt on. If you decide down the road that leafs aren't for you and you want coils, unbolt it and sell it as a kit.
You make a valid point I do like that option but i feel if i do anything further with my jeep after this it may just wind up on coil-overs But all things Considered I would keep the BTF kit and just use it as a rear bumper and hang big tow shackles where the leafs are supposed to mount if i go a different route
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:12 AM   #21
Sundowner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999GOLDTJ View Post
You make a valid point I do like that option but i feel if i do anything further with my jeep after this it may just wind up on coil-overs But all things Considered I would keep the BTF kit and just use it as a rear bumper and hang big tow shackles where the leafs are supposed to mount if i go a different route
In that eventuality, none of the axles mentioned heretofore have the necessary width to make your life anything except a living hell, should you decide to go the coilover route.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:16 AM   #22
1999GOLDTJ
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Haha id like to think i would be on 42s with full withs by then! D60 and D70 but thats a whole other project.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:21 AM   #23
Rockdrummer93
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Yeah there is nothing wrong with the C8.25 when it comes to strength. Though you will probably find the aftermarket for them sucks. If it were me I'd go with something a little more aftermarket friendly, especially since your going through all the work to swap in axles in the first place. I had a 29 spline 8.25 in mine and swapped a XJ44 in just so it was easier to work on. The C8.25 and HP30 are limited to 4.88s and with a 4cyl 35s or 37s might be too much. I read where 4.88s and 33s with a 4cyl is what you want. so with 35s or 37s you'd probably want 5.13s. Personally if you're going through the trouble leaves or not Id look for a set of Waggy 44s. They are just as strong, pretty much the same width and you can basically build one from the ground up with aftermarket parts. Or shoot if you look hard enough go with a f150/bronco 8.8/HP44 combo. Be a good bit wider and with a stretch would probably even it out and look badass. Just my 2 cents
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:29 AM   #24
Jankoid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rockdrummer93 View Post
Yeah there is nothing wrong with the C8.25 when it comes to strength. Though you will probably find the aftermarket for them sucks. If it were me I'd go with something a little more aftermarket friendly, especially since your going through all the work to swap in axles in the first place. I had a 29 spline 8.25 in mine and swapped a XJ44 in just so it was easier to work on. The C8.25 and HP30 are limited to 4.88s and with a 4cyl 35s or 37s might be too much. I read where 4.88s and 33s with a 4cyl is what you want. so with 35s or 37s you'd probably want 5.13s. Personally if you're going through the trouble leaves or not Id look for a set of Waggy 44s. They are just as strong, pretty much the same width and you can basically build one from the ground up with aftermarket parts. Or shoot if you look hard enough go with a f150/bronco 8.8/HP44 combo. Be a good bit wider and with a stretch would probably even it out and look badass. Just my 2 cents
'77 f150 hp44s are hard to come by though, and when you do find them they usually bring a hefty price. It is a great axle though, I was lucky enough to snag one for $150 that I plan to swap in one of my Jeeps eventually.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:30 AM   #25
Sundowner
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Originally Posted by 1999GOLDTJ View Post
Haha id like to think i would be on 42s with full withs by then! D60 and D70 but thats a whole other project.
42's run the risk of trashing a 60, unless you beef it enough to hold them...and you are going to need a LOT of stretch to make use of that large of a tire size.

In regards to the topic at hand: I think you can run whatever you like, axle-wise, but the points about aftermarket support and suspension theory are valid. A leaf system can work really well pending that it's set up really well, but setting up a rig on low/stock springs can be really difficult if you're at all concerned about uptravel...and if you want to keep your center of mass low and still get good performance, uptravel probably needs to be at the absolute top of your priority list.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post
'77 f150 hp44s are hard to come by though, and when you do find them they usually bring a hefty price. It is a great axle though, I was lucky enough to snag one for $150 that I plan to swap in one of my Jeeps eventually.
I've got an 8.8 in the back of a Bronco that I'm not using...so that's an option, too.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:31 AM   #26
1999GOLDTJ
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Ok so the the mods on the jeep so far:
AEM CAI
MBRP Cat Back
3inch Race Car Dynamics (RCD) Suspension Lift
JKS Track Bar
OME Steering Stabilizer
Lock Rite Locker
Advanced Adapters SYE
Tom Woods Double CV Drive Shaft
UCF No Body Lift Tummy Tuck (2 inches deep)
Novak Cable Shifter
Skid Row Steering Box Cover
33x10.50 BFG ATs on MT Blacks
8 inch travel Bilsteins 5100s all four corners

On My Shopping List
High Pinion D30-Bought
C8.25-Bought
Good XJ Leafs (I may just buy new ones)
BTF Stretch Crossmember
Front leaf perches
Rear Shackles set to a 45* angle
Ill Need to get my Drive shaft Lengthened
Fuel Cell RCI 2161
Comp Cut Rear Corners
CNC Fab Front Hoodline Tube Fenders
35x12.50 BFG KM2s
10 inch travel Bilsteins 5100 in the front
12 inch travel Bilsteins 5100 in the rear
Shock Hoops (To out board the rear)
Full set of front control arms either Currie or JKS

Last edited by 1999GOLDTJ; 02-21-2013 at 10:10 AM..
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:32 AM   #27
Rockdrummer93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jankoid View Post
'77 f150 hp44s are hard to come by though, and when you do find them they usually bring a hefty price. It is a great axle though, I was lucky enough to snag one for $150 that I plan to swap in one of my Jeeps eventually.
Yeah I stumbled upon one at the JY a few weeks ago. Not complete but for $140 I aint complaining.
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:35 AM   #28
Jankoid
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1999GOLDTJ View Post
On My Shopping List

Front leaf perches
Those come with the btf kit i think.

Edit: maybe not, nevermind
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:38 AM   #29
1999GOLDTJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sundowner View Post
42's run the risk of trashing a 60, unless you beef it enough to hold them...and you are going to need a LOT of stretch to make use of that large of a tire size.

In regards to the topic at hand: I think you can run whatever you like, axle-wise, but the points about aftermarket support and suspension theory are valid. A leaf system can work really well pending that it's set up really well, but setting up a rig on low/stock springs can be really difficult if you're at all concerned about uptravel...and if you want to keep your center of mass low and still get good performance, uptravel probably needs to be at the absolute top of your priority list.



I've got an 8.8 in the back of a Bronco that I'm not using...so that's an option, too.
Its All About the down travel! I may wind up trading my 3inch springs for 4 inch in the front to keep everything level. I have plenty of up travel now. its just gong to be bump stopped well. that will create a pivot point and create a sew saw like motion to allow the opposing side to droop lower
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Unread 02-21-2013, 09:50 AM   #30
Ripper3494
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Are you just doing leafs in the back? I thought it was front too. In that case it's not so bad. One thing to think about to help you stay low is you can French the leaf spring hangars into the frame. This gives you the ability to run taller longer springs without raising your rigs height.

Btw I ran 33s with 4.88s behind a 4 cyl and it worked well off highway, but I think 35s and 37s will be stressful to drive unless your mostly offroad then just gear your t case deeper

Probably sent from under my broken heep
__________________
build thread:
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/94-yj-6-0-build-spud-1218315/[/url]
1994 yj stretched, locked and loaded - 6.0l vortec lq4, 4l60e, np231, Dana 44s 37" interco trxus m/t, 3.5" bds front leafs, double triangulated 4 link rear on xj front coils.
1997 ZJ limited - BONE stock
2003 tj - 4in skyjacker, 33" mickey thompsons
my on board alternator/welder write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/alternator-welder-write-up-1301614/[/url]
my tj 1/2 doors on a yj write up
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/tj-uppers-yj-half-doors-hard-top-installation-1417686/[/url]
RC vs BDS
[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/rough-country-vs-bds-1461555/[/url]
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