My Girl... a Boston Jeep Build - Page 8 - JeepForum.com
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post #106 of 1979 Old 01-14-2011, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
djflyy
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Boston
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Photo from the Jeep up north during that storm this week...



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post #107 of 1979 Old 01-15-2011, 11:07 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djflyy View Post
Upcoming Mods:
  • New winch solenoid assembly - New XRC-8
  • Firestik Scanner/CB Antennas (brake light mount) In possession, ordering Teraflex brake light mount
  • Frame sanding/painting Summer 2011
  • A-Z Rocker panels Installed
Let's update this...
  • Install Firestik
  • Install XRC-8
  • Wire lighting switch panel & lights
  • HP30 front / unknown rear - 4.10 or lower gears
  • Alloy USA U-joints
  • Sand and refinish frame

I think, depending on junk yard costs, I'll be doing an XJ HP30 swap for the front, and at least an TJ SE 35 rear, for the 4.10 gearing. I think I'll end up doing 33s between 31s and 35s, as the 4" of tire size requires much stronger parts for the Jeep which I just don't see dumping money into right now. If I can swap my axles for the HP to gain some strength and at least the 2.5 cyl Dana 35 (or an explorer 8.8) for the back, then the 4.10 gears will suit 33s MUCH better than my 3.07 gearing does, without the cost of a regear. Technically speaking the Alloy products don't need to be installed for 33s as many people on here run D30s and D35s with 33s and stock U joints.

This is how I see it happening in my head, at least. How much are junk yard axles? My girlfriend has a friend who's family owns Hollands Junk Yard in Billerica so that's always an option.
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post #108 of 1979 Old 01-16-2011, 06:32 AM
SaxManClay
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I've seen HP30's go for about $100-$200, while an 8.8 goes for around $250 I think. Some people have found them for ridiculous deals, like $50.

But, if you're looking for an HP30 with 4.10 gears, good luck. Those are very difficult to come by.

EDIT: A junk yard in Candia, NH has a HP30 with 4.10 gears for $150. I'd say jump on that!
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post #109 of 1979 Old 01-16-2011, 09:23 AM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaxManClay View Post
I've seen HP30's go for about $100-$200, while an 8.8 goes for around $250 I think. Some people have found them for ridiculous deals, like $50.

But, if you're looking for an HP30 with 4.10 gears, good luck. Those are very difficult to come by.

EDIT: A junk yard in Candia, NH has a HP30 with 4.10 gears for $150. I'd say jump on that!
Where were you able to find specific junk yard inventory info? And the 4.10 was shipped with 4 cyl Cherokees as well.
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post #110 of 1979 Old 01-16-2011, 10:36 AM
SaxManClay
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post #111 of 1979 Old 01-17-2011, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Light bar cont'd... Parallel wiring. The ground will be connected to the stock bar. I used a continuity checker to make sure it was going to ground, and sure enough it shall. Life's great. I'll connect the last ground cable to the bolt that will go into the hood. Just enough wiring to be able to pull the lights out and work on them, and not have excess building up inside. Also got a shipping notification from Home Depot about the post end shipping.... 3 weeks later, but whatever.

By the way, it's insulating paper stuck from an adhesive to the cable, nothing to worry about.



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post #112 of 1979 Old 01-17-2011, 09:18 PM
Smallz
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You mean you wired in parallel right? From the pictures it seams like your wiring is parallel, just me nit picking. Series would make your lights have different intensities and would look really funny.
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post #113 of 1979 Old 01-17-2011, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallz View Post
You mean you wired in parallel right? From the pictures it seams like your wiring is parallel, just me nit picking. Series would make your lights have different intensities and would look really funny.
Bahaha. It's been an extraordinarily long day at work. Yes, parallel. You've got to understand that I deal with parallel, series, series-parallel, etc all day long and had a very stressful night tonight.

Anyway, yeah. You're right ;-)
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post #114 of 1979 Old 01-18-2011, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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How's that look? The other end cap came today miraculously, so everything's good there. Just need some black silicone and the brackets to be made.

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post #115 of 1979 Old 01-21-2011, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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So I posted a "wanted" bulletin asking about a used Teraflex antenna mount, and a guy posted and said he could cut the steel for me to make one. His price was equally expensive as the Teraflex one, so I passed, but I asked him about making 2 brackets to mount my light bar with, so that it isn't all home-brew style. He and I have been e-mailing back and forth, and he's going to make me 2 brackets to mount to the hood and then mount to the back of the stock pipe.

He did, however, ask for 2 measurements that I can't provide for him as I don't have the TJ with me. If any of you might be able to measure this I'd appreciate it. He wants to know how far from the hood hinges the windshield washer nozzles are... basically if there was a pretend straight line from the front of the hinges, how far forwards is the nozzle, so that the bracket clears it. If anyone could get that measurement for me I'd be extraordinarily grateful.

The two pieces above the bottom right hand corner (and switch) are what he's making, 2 brackets for $45 shipped, even offered me to have "Jeep" or something engraved in the bracket like the Delta ones.

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post #116 of 1979 Old 01-25-2011, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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I got bored today and did a little wiring scheme for the TJ when I get home. I'm not positive, but this is what it'll be like if I go with the relays. The panel I intend to use will have fuses built in, so technically speaking I don't need relays... just a nice thick 10 gauge hot lead from the battery wired and looped down the hots on the switches. Parallel the ground wire back out of the cab to a ground, and then when it comes to adding new lights, I simply would need to add the wire to the light itself. That'd be super easy, but I don't want to cut corners with skipping out on relays, but it's all depending on how much amperage the switches themselves can handle.

Not sure what I'll do. Any input? I know some believe relays are truly necessary... I'm not sold on that, as long as the wiring gauges and switch ratings are of appropriate amperage, following the 80% load rule.

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post #117 of 1979 Old 02-01-2011, 09:48 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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The following weeks will include a multi-post update as to what I'm doing to clean up electrical wiring within the Jeep, which in turn will hopefully expand my capabilities, and allow me many more options for accessories, as well as making things neater and safer altogether. I've been spending some serious time researching and coming up with the best way to go about all this. I've spent some time watching Seinfeld while drawing out on multiple sheets of paper my plans for this.

My list of products needed includes the following:
  • 6 Single Pole/Single Throw On/Off Toggles
  • 100 feet of 14 AWG red electrical wire
  • 100 feet of 14 AWG black electrical wire
  • 10 30 amp relays
  • Bulk fork shaped connectors
  • Bulk heat shrink tubing
  • Blue Sea Systems Fuse Block with Negative Bus for power distribution and grounding localization
Although I'm in Orlando now finishing up school (graduation in 4 months and counting!) I'll be doing most of the wiring and stuff here in my spare time. I will be digitizing basic overviews of my hand drawn diagrams to get the overall idea across, and to bounce some ideas off of the limited people who read this thread's minds.

It should only cost a hundred or so dollars in total, and will be almost entirely pre-wired so that when I'm back in Boston this summer, everything will be ready to go into the TJ. This summer will also include stripping the frame and doing a POR-15/Chassis Saver/Rust Bullet type project to try and clean her up. Depending my job transition, I'll be leaving the Jeep in Boston for a while again at the end of the summer, so I'm going to try and do everything I can to her this summer.

I'll post at another time to explain what it is exactly that I do for a living... it's pretty cool/out of the ordinary.

Thanks for reading, if anyone still does!
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post #118 of 1979 Old 02-01-2011, 09:53 PM
Mudmouse990
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i really like the lightbar its a nice sleek design which wont get ripped off when wheeling

90 yj 2.5l or pure power,thrush turbo, gutted cat, RC 4in lift,1" boom shackles, 33" BFG A/T's, outlaw alum rims,Rhino lined interior,overhead lights,connex 3300 cb, Homemade disco's, no rear trackbar
future mods- diamond plate rocker gaurds, fold down bus steps,home made front and rear bumpers , tube fenders, paint my doors red,possibly a winch, 302 ford or a 350 chevy, ford 8.8, cv style shaft and much more


Check out my build thread
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/9...there-1155268/
My Home made Quick Disconnects Write up http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/h...-pics-1182040/
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post #119 of 1979 Old 02-01-2011, 10:13 PM
Amills
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sounds like you got a good plan ahead of you
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post #120 of 1979 Old 02-01-2011, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudmouse990 View Post
i really like the lightbar its a nice sleek design which wont get ripped off when wheeling
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjjeepkid View Post
sounds like you got a good plan ahead of you
Thanks guys. Here's a photo of the bracket that is being made for the bar. Picture 90 degree bends on the dotted lines. Small circles obviously will mount to the hood hinge, and the small square section will hold the bolt to the bar itself... "JEEP" is a mock up, I'm debating that or "WRANGLER" ... thoughts?

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