My Girl... a Boston Jeep Build - Page 41 - JeepForum.com

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post #601 of 1980 Old 09-15-2011, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djflyy View Post
Finally ordered an adjustable front track bar. Figured I might as well spend the money, get the best, and get it new. That being said, for $265 (using discount codes I found on the interwebs!) I got the Currie HD Adjustable Front Track Bar. My axle is ridiculously off centered, as noticed by even Steph this morning. It's easily 1 1/2-2" further out the drivers side. As Geoff said, it's time to let the rest of the Jeep catch up.




Well....... I was an idiot (and the Savvy website was sort of confusing) so I canceled my order at 4WheelParts on the track bar and I was going to order it from Savvy because I thought I could get the same track bar for $227. Anyway, I was way off as I was reading about the JKS but it wasn't labeled as such.

I used this opportunity to get the TJJ instead of the TJS just to upgrade the axle side bolt to a 1/2" as well as the frame side to 5/8". Total cost (delivered) was $285 with the 10% off coupon from Gerald. Should be here by the end of next week.



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post #602 of 1980 Old 09-17-2011, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Did an interesting "heater core flush" mod today in an attempt to fix the heater system on the TJ. I did a full photo write up which I'll post later. I still have to drive at night to see if it worked out correctly

Also- track bar is being delivered on Thursday.
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post #603 of 1980 Old 09-17-2011, 07:04 PM
2003X
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post #604 of 1980 Old 09-18-2011, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Here's the write-up I did for a TJ Tech Thread on doing a heater core flush on the TJ. I posted it here as well so that I have it and can find it easily



--



As the winter months near, and temperatures drop throughout New England, I finally got off my butt and decided to move forward with the famed "heater core flush" as described by many people on the forum as an easy and potentially great solution for luke-warm air from the heating system. I can honestly say that I do remember a time, albeit a few years ago, when the heater would blow out burning hot air. Over the past few winters it has gotten much cooler, to the point of keeping gloves, earmuffs, and extra jackets in the Jeep. Before the cold really sets in, I executed this process.

One of the problems I had found was that I am a very visual learner, and nobody had posted a photo guide to this on the forum here. I watched a YouTube video with a guy that showed the process, and went from there. Here's my guide with photos.

Step 1: Locate the two hoses that travel from the radiator/engine to the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay. These are the two that you will be passing water/air through to try and unclog and discharge any stray substance from. I have circled the appropriate hoses in the photos.










Step 2: Locate the ends of the hose (meaning: don't remove the hose from the firewall, use the opposite end) Remove the hose clamps from the end of the hose, and move them further back on the hose. I use a pair of large pliers, clamped the tabs, and wiggled the clamp further down the line to loosen the grip and allow me to slide the hoses off of their positions. Remember, they may be old/dried out, so carefully remove them to avoid problems. The lower hose of my Jeep took a little extra love to get off. Also, have a catch-bucket nearby to collect any of the fluid that may come out upon hose removal.






Step 3: Fasten your hose of water/air compressor into the Jeep hoses. It doesn't really matter which you start with, although I began with the upper hose. Situate the catch-pan/bottle at the end of the opposite hose, as that is where the water & debris will flow out of. I used a milk gallon at the flushing end, a funnel at the end of the hose, and ran the highest pressure water flow I could with my hose.





*For steps 3 and 4 - flush water through the system until it flows out the other end (into the catch bucket) in a clear form)*

Step 4: Reverse the process. Much alike fish scales, pieces of debris will not be freed by water moving in the direction it normally does. By reversing the process, water will be more likely to catch debris in the opposite direction and remove it from the hose. Don't forget to move the milk jug device to the other hose.





Step 5 (optional): The next step is one that some people say to do, and some people opt not to go through with. In an effort to make sure that all debris is removed, people use a vehicle appropriate cleaning product in the hoses. As noted below, please make sure that the substance you wash the lines out with is safe for aluminum (the material of the heater core) and all of the hoses themselves. Start by pouring the substance down the hose (matters not which) and letting it sit for 10 or so minutes. Then go ahead and flush it in either - or both - directions.

The most important part of this step is to make sure that all cleaning substances have been removed from the hoses, as it is not good for the radiator to receive any left-overs once the car is started again. Run water through after this step until you are absolutely sure that there is no substance left in the hoses.







Step 6: Re-attach hoses. Affix them to the appropriate tips on the engine, and replace the hose clamps to their original positions. Remember to spread the clamps as wide as possible so it can slide freely without scraping apart the hose.

Step 7: Replace any coolant fluid that may have been lost during this process. I picked up a gallon of Prestone 50/50 coolant at AutoZone for $13.99 before starting this process. If you don't have a visible loss of fluid, turn the vehicle on and depress the gas to about 2,000-2,500 RPMs for 30 seconds or so. At that point, re-check the fluid level and add appropriately.


--


That's it!!! Hope this helps some people get an idea as to how easy this kind of thing is to do, and give them an idea as to how to go about it! Feel free to post any thoughts, suggestions, or questions below. I'd be happy to add/change any parts of this if people have suggestions that have worked for them.

As always, PLEASE DISPOSE OF COOLANT AND ALL VEHICLE FLUIDS APPROPRIATELY. MOST AUTOZONE/ADVANCE AUTO PARTS STORES WILL DISPOSE OF YOUR FLUID IF YOU BRING IT TO THEM IN AN APPROPRIATE CONTAINER.

Happy Jeepin!
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post #605 of 1980 Old 09-18-2011, 05:47 PM
2003X
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Looks good. I replaced the 4 heater hoses when I did mine.
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post #606 of 1980 Old 09-18-2011, 06:42 PM
NBFarmboy
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nice write up, great job!!

RAYS 4X4, an Official MCE dealer, Pm me for prices
"Redneck Rooster" 98 TJ with 5.3 Vortec, 4 speed, 37"s
Wifes "Ladybug" 95 YJ 2.5, 3.5" fenders, 33's, 1" body lift, 1" deep skid pan, york OBA 1" shackle lift
"Bullfrog" 88 XJ 4.0, Doorless, 2" lift, 33-10.5 tires, very cut fenders...
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post #607 of 1980 Old 09-18-2011, 08:16 PM
SaxManClay
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Again Ryan, good job. It's really great to see you putting this out so that other people will now know how to do it. I'll have to try it on my Jeep when I finally get him back!
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post #608 of 1980 Old 09-19-2011, 07:39 AM
CrawlingForward
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Nice, I should probably do this one of these days. I know the OP replaced the radiator, and he's pretty thorough with these things, so he must have flushed well, but I should do it when I change my fluid next time anyway.

Good for you also for actually writing it up. I have all the pictures from the timing chain replacement online and all the steps meticulous hand-recorded, but I've just been really lazy and haven't done the write-up yet.

My Other Jeep Is A Jeep - Crawlingforward's Jeep-Related Adventures

95 YJ, Rio Grande - The Wannabe Sleeper Wheeler
2010 JKU, Islander Edition - The Burly Stock Overlander

- North Shore Jeep Club -
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post #609 of 1980 Old 09-19-2011, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Today I got off work early, and got to come home and finish up my steering box skid. I used some Rustoleum flat black (an absolute Jeep favorite!!) and painted it yesterday, let it cure overnight, and installed it today. I re-used the stock steering box bolt for the frame section, but then I bought a 3/8th inch Grade 8 bolt that was 1 1/2" long to attach the front lip to the bumper. Couldn't be happier with this skid as a whole. Sorry to have posted so many pictures of it, but I'm really happy about the way it turned out.

On another, somewhat likewise, note - I will be moving forward with making not only my tummy tuck t/c skid plate, but also a swing out tire carrier and perhaps even tube fenders depending on how adventurous I get.










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post #610 of 1980 Old 09-19-2011, 09:01 PM
2003X
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That looks awesome. You need to make me one.
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post #611 of 1980 Old 09-19-2011, 09:24 PM
Amills
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That steering box skid looks amazing! Excellent job for the first homemade welding project!
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post #612 of 1980 Old 09-20-2011, 12:38 AM
tsstoudt
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You did a really nice job, it's something you can be proud of, of course till you top it with something you like even more...lol.

ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
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post #613 of 1980 Old 09-20-2011, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
djflyy
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That looks awesome. You need to make me one.
Buy the steel, toss me some money for the wire, and I'd be happy to.
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post #614 of 1980 Old 09-20-2011, 05:53 AM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjjeepkid View Post
That steering box skid looks amazing! Excellent job for the first homemade welding project!
Quote:
Originally Posted by tsstoudt View Post
You did a really nice job, it's something you can be proud of, of course till you top it with something you like even more...lol.

Thanks guys! I really had a blast making it. I'm looking forward to starting more intricate projects!
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post #615 of 1980 Old 09-20-2011, 07:22 AM
NBFarmboy
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Great job!! Looks good on ya rig

Stalking your thread from the comforts of my tractor .... seriously!!!!

RAYS 4X4, an Official MCE dealer, Pm me for prices
"Redneck Rooster" 98 TJ with 5.3 Vortec, 4 speed, 37"s
Wifes "Ladybug" 95 YJ 2.5, 3.5" fenders, 33's, 1" body lift, 1" deep skid pan, york OBA 1" shackle lift
"Bullfrog" 88 XJ 4.0, Doorless, 2" lift, 33-10.5 tires, very cut fenders...
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