My Girl... a Boston Jeep Build - Page 28 - JeepForum.com

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post #406 of 1980 Old 07-02-2011, 08:59 PM
SaxManClay
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2000 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Weymouth
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It's about time you got it back! Now it's time to work on mine.

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post #407 of 1980 Old 07-03-2011, 07:37 AM Thread Starter
djflyy
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1999 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Installed my winch yesterday.... just have to get the fairlead on there.


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post #408 of 1980 Old 07-03-2011, 07:40 AM
OH9JK
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2009 JK Wrangler 
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djflyy
Saw these and wanted to share, they're at Lawless Chrysler in Woburn.... I'd buy one! They've got a 4-door version out front now too.
Paint or giant decal?
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post #409 of 1980 Old 07-03-2011, 10:15 PM
Cowboyup94
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Winch looks good! Looks like you cleaned up the rust spot you mentioned before on the bar.
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post #410 of 1980 Old 07-04-2011, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OH9JK View Post
Paint or giant decal?
I'll have to go and check more closely

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboyup94 View Post
Winch looks good! Looks like you cleaned up the rust spot you mentioned before on the bar.
Thanks! Yeah the Chassis Saver did a real good number on making everything look 10 years newer.
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post #411 of 1980 Old 07-05-2011, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
djflyy
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I know none of you really care about electrical stuff, but here's an interesting dilemma I've been running into.

So I've been having problems with the hood light bar. For some reason, although it worked fine in the beginning, I've been blowing fuses left right and center. I'm unfortunately not just talking 15 and 20 amp fuses, but 30 and 40 amp fuses. Continually. So what I've got to do is probably take the bar apart by cutting the black silicone that holds the lights in, and wiring it in a 2x55 watt & 2x55 watt configuration instead of 4x55. I believe I can still make it all off of one switch triggering 2 relays however, which will be good and keep things simple.

What I can't figure out though, is what's causing the blows. The math indicates that the bar should only draw 18.33 amps of power.
55 watts x 4 lights = 220 watts total
220 watts / 12 volt system = 18.33 amp draw
80% rule of 18.33 amps = minimum 21.96 amp fuse
21.96 = 25 amp fuse
Unfortunately, these fuses aren't cutting it. I've literally gone through about 10 fuses trying to figure this out, with one troubleshooting method including changing which relay the switch triggers. I'd really like this to only be on one relay, as it shouldn't be drawing as much power as it is. I guess I'll just have to figure it out.

Info to come!
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post #412 of 1980 Old 07-05-2011, 09:51 AM
OH9JK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djflyy
I know none of you really care about electrical stuff, but here's an interesting dilemma I've been running into.

So I've been having problems with the hood light bar. For some reason, although it worked fine in the beginning, I've been blowing fuses left right and center. I'm unfortunately not just talking 15 and 20 amp fuses, but 30 and 40 amp fuses. Continually. So what I've got to do is probably take the bar apart by cutting the black silicone that holds the lights in, and wiring it in a 2x55 watt & 2x55 watt configuration instead of 4x55. I believe I can still make it all off of one switch triggering 2 relays however, which will be good and keep things simple.

What I can't figure out though, is what's causing the blows. The math indicates that the bar should only draw 18.33 amps of power.

55 watts x 4 lights = 220 watts total
220 watts / 12 volt system = 18.33 amp draw
80% rule of 18.33 amps = minimum 21.96 amp fuse
21.96 = 25 amp fuse

Unfortunately, these fuses aren't cutting it. I've literally gone through about 10 fuses trying to figure this out, with one troubleshooting method including changing which relay the switch triggers. I'd really like this to only be on one relay, as it shouldn't be drawing as much power as it is. I guess I'll just have to figure it out.

Info to come!
Is this a sealed light bar? It almost acts like something is dead shorting. I would take my multimeter and start tracing all my leads to see if any of the hots short to ground.

You may have to rip everything apart to do this.
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post #413 of 1980 Old 07-05-2011, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OH9JK View Post
Is this a sealed light bar? It almost acts like something is dead shorting. I would take my multimeter and start tracing all my leads to see if any of the hots short to ground.

You may have to rip everything apart to do this.
Thanks. Unfortunately, it's pretty sealed up. I already cut the silicone and removed the lights. I'll be re-wiring in a more thorough way than I was in the mood for 6 months ago when I built it. I'm going to wire it first on one circuit and test it without sealing everything up, and hopefully that will work. If not we'll attempt a dual-switch bar.
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post #414 of 1980 Old 07-05-2011, 10:03 PM
Cowboyup94
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does it blow the fuses right away or when you flip the switch? little more info...
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post #415 of 1980 Old 07-06-2011, 06:29 AM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboyup94 View Post
does it blow the fuses right away or when you flip the switch? little more info...
Yes and no. Sometimes it would be blown instantly. Sometimes, however, it would be on for a minute or two at a time and be fine. It was all at random.


I took it apart and re-built the bar yesterday. I believe the problem was that one of the hot legs had a strand or two of wire sticking out from it's butt end connector that was coming in contact with the metal of the bar itself and was causing it to short out. This would make sense, as it would only be blowing fuses if that strand happened to be right up against the interior wall of the bar. If by some chance the connector was bounced in the right way while driving to be away from the interior wall, it wouldn't short.

Problem basically solved. Ran it with new wiring on a 40 amp fuse (i'm out of 25 and 30 amp fuses!) for a while yesterday before sealing everything up. Turned it on and off repeatedly to make sure... jumped on the jeep to make sure... haha.

So anyway. That's that.
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post #416 of 1980 Old 07-06-2011, 10:31 AM
NBFarmboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djflyy
So anyway. That's that.
Yay haha
Good to hear that's resolved
So howabout some wheeling???

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum while swearing about how my rig is not done

RAYS 4X4, an Official MCE dealer, Pm me for prices
"Redneck Rooster" 98 TJ with 5.3 Vortec, 4 speed, 37"s
Wifes "Ladybug" 95 YJ 2.5, 3.5" fenders, 33's, 1" body lift, 1" deep skid pan, york OBA 1" shackle lift
"Bullfrog" 88 XJ 4.0, Doorless, 2" lift, 33-10.5 tires, very cut fenders...
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post #417 of 1980 Old 07-06-2011, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Not till the vibes are gone... I don't think it'd make it out to New Braintree without the driveshaft vibrating off.
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post #418 of 1980 Old 07-06-2011, 08:52 PM
NBFarmboy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djflyy
Not till the vibes are gone... I don't think it'd make it out to New Braintree without the driveshaft vibrating off.
I have been there a time or two

Sent from my iPhone using JeepForum while swearing about how my rig is not done

RAYS 4X4, an Official MCE dealer, Pm me for prices
"Redneck Rooster" 98 TJ with 5.3 Vortec, 4 speed, 37"s
Wifes "Ladybug" 95 YJ 2.5, 3.5" fenders, 33's, 1" body lift, 1" deep skid pan, york OBA 1" shackle lift
"Bullfrog" 88 XJ 4.0, Doorless, 2" lift, 33-10.5 tires, very cut fenders...
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post #419 of 1980 Old 07-07-2011, 07:31 PM Thread Starter
djflyy
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Light bar is almost re-done.

The ball-joint looking things at the end of the pitman arm, tie rod (driver side knuckle) and drag link (passenger side knuckle) are all shredded and worn down after 2 weeks of driving. They were all appropriately lubed up. Wtf.
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post #420 of 1980 Old 07-07-2011, 08:35 PM
Cowboyup94
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lube em up to much or let it make contact with water or debris?
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35s , boston , built tj , chili pepper pearl , north shore jeeps

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