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Unread 06-17-2012, 08:24 PM   #16
teamgreen666
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1994 YJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
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great looking jeep, love the tan. I think jeep made a big error removing this color.
Will be coming down to Kittery, ME soon for some camping as we do every year for the last 5 years great little area for some time off work. Wish I had my jeep still waiting to get the new one around the end of august.

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Unread 07-11-2012, 09:01 AM   #17
BoomBoom
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Location: Olathe, Kansas
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How did the install of the Y Pipe go ? Is it a necessary thing ? I am just going to a 3" teraflex lift on my new 2012 JK Unlimited and wanted to know if I need to do this right away.
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Unread 07-11-2012, 09:26 AM   #18
en480c4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by teamgreen666 View Post
great looking jeep, love the tan. I think jeep made a big error removing this color.
Well, my understanding is it wasn't removed by choice, and that post-tsunami, they weren't able to source the pigments as the original pigments were from Japan.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomBoom View Post
How did the install of the Y Pipe go ? Is it a necessary thing ? I am just going to a 3" teraflex lift on my new 2012 JK Unlimited and wanted to know if I need to do this right away.
It's definitely necessary. After my lift install, I had my dealer (pretty mod-friendly) give the Jeep a once-over to make sure everything looked good. I had a 1,200 mile road trip the following weekend, and didn't have the time to re-torque everything myself. Anyway, after being careful during the lift install to not tweak the shaft on the exhaust, I forgot to mention it to the dealer, who put the Jeep on the lift. At full droop, it definitely hung the front DS off the exhaust crossover. Since then, I have some pretty nasty noises coming from my front shaft, and likely torched the repazza joint. If you don't need an oil change or won't be wheeling it, it should be fine. But if you disconnect the sway bar or if it's going on a lift, I'd do it sooner rather than later. I'm not looking forward to replacing my front shaft.

As for the install, I definitely have a recommendation. Buy the (4) 8mm bolts that join the flanges. I figured that since I was able to get everything apart, going back together wouldn't be an issue. This was not the case, and despite the Jeep being 9 months old, these bolts were in rough shape. The stock y-pipe removal was a piece of cake, and I got the new y-pipe in place fairly quickly. Unfortunatley the existing bolts went back in very hard, and on the driver's side, I broke the head off one of the bolts, and rounded the head over on the other. On the passenger side, one bolt went in tough, but OK, and the other didn't grab at all because the threads at the end were in such rough shape. And of course I did this on the 4th of July, so nothing was open. I don't know if it's because they're in a vulnerable spot for road salt, or if it's the cyclic heating and cooling of the exhaust. But these bolts definitely should be replaced when installing the aFe y-pipe, and should be included. < $4 worth of parts would have saved me having to spend > $80 to get it fixed since I didn't have a suitable easy-out, and access without a lift was definitely an issue.

With new bolts it would've been < 1 hr install. The hardest thing to do is removing the nut for the clamp at the back of the y-pipe. The stud is vertical, and there's very little room to get a wrench or socket up there, and once you do, there's very little space to get leverage to loosen it, and it's on very tight.


Other than that, my only other news on the Jeep is that I bought a '52 Dunbar M100 trailer that I'm resto-modding with my father. Should be a fun little project. I need to replace a bunch of the suspension components, and will be re-welding the hacked tailgate mod. But the frame and rest of the tub are pretty solid, and it should be a great little rig to use around town and eventually use as an expedition trailer (hard tonneau and RTT). Teardown is completed, and now it's just figuring out the plan moving forward. It's going to be painted to match (Sahara Tan), with a black frame, tongue and wheels and bedlined interior.

Day I brought it home:



Current condition:

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Unread 07-11-2012, 12:19 PM   #19
BoomBoom
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Thanks for the information, did you go with just the Y Pipe or the whole catback exhaust from aFe . Love the Tan and black combo.
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Unread 07-11-2012, 12:24 PM   #20
BoomBoom
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One last question, I have seen a few things about front adjustable control arms with the 3" lift... my cart keeps expanding!
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Unread 07-11-2012, 12:32 PM   #21
en480c4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomBoom View Post
Thanks for the information, did you go with just the Y Pipe or the whole catback exhaust from aFe . Love the Tan and black combo.
Just the y-pipe. I didn't have any desire to modify the rest of the system. I like a nice, quiet exhaust. The top and tire noise is enough for me!

And thanks... I love the color combo, too. I have the black Jeep emblem from the Altitude Edition on order as well, and that should be here this week. That will take care of the last bit of chrome I have.


Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomBoom View Post
One last question, I have seen a few things about front adjustable control arms with the 3" lift... my cart keeps expanding!
I have the AEV kit, so it has the geometry correction brackets. For the kind of wheeling I do, I wasn't concerned about the drop, and the benefits are noticable. The control arms are almost parallel, so they don't transfer the bumps up to the frame, and the change in angle between the upper and lower arms has all but eliminated brake dive, so it feels very stable, even under panic-stopping conditions. Finally, I wanted to maintain the rubber bushings in the factory control arms, since I don't really want to be stuck having to rebuild joints, or want any decrease in ride quality. I've gotten more than enough flex out of the rubber, and when they do break down, they're cheap and easy to replace.

Having said that, at 3" you will want to do something about castor correction. Steering feel, alignment and toe in will all benfit from either the brackets (which are usable with any lift) or LCA's. For me, it was a matter of balancing ride, longevity and the reality that I don't wheel this often enough to worry about maximizing flex when compared to other joints and their limitations.
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Unread 07-11-2012, 12:52 PM   #22
BoomBoom
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Having said that, at 3" you will want to do something about castor correction. Steering feel, alignment and toe in will all benfit from either the brackets (which are usable with any lift) or LCA's.

Just need a little help understanding what you posted, so castor correction ?

Steering feel, I have a stabilizer coming.

Alignment and toe in, I ordered the front track bar , what are brackets or LCA (long control arm ?)

Again I appreciate your help!
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Unread 07-11-2012, 01:06 PM   #23
en480c4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomBoom View Post
Just need a little help understanding what you posted, so castor correction ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomBoom View Post
Steering feel, I have a stabilizer coming.
The problem is as you lift, castor gets closer to vertical unless you use brackets or adjustable control arms to maintain factory castor. This can cause the Jeep to wander.

A steering stabilizer is a good idea, but unrelated to this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomBoom View Post
Alignment and toe in, I ordered the front track bar , what are brackets or LCA (long control arm ?)
Again, toe in is literally how much the front tires point in towards the centerline of the vehicle. It's adjusted with the tire rod. And if the castor is off, even the right amount of toe in won't necessarily return the vehicle to stock handling characteristings.

The track bar centers the axle under the vehicle, and has nothing to do with this part of the alignment.

The LCA is lower control arm. It's the one you see in your avatar photo. In the picture, you can see it's parallel with the ground. As you lift the vehicle, the axle rotates around the control arms, and the angle of it will increase from the frame down to the axle. This is also what causes the change in castor. Adjustable LCAs allow you to go longer, effectively restoring factory castor settings and improve steering feel. But the steeper the angle of the control arm, the more road feel will be translated directly up to the frame and occupant. Adjustable arms don't address this. The other solution is to use brackets that lower the frame-end attachment of the control arms. This decreases clearance, but returns the control arms to parallel, allowing both correct castor and improved ride since the spring/shock can absorb the vertical movement over bumps, and it's not transferred axially up the control arm. Most feel the LCAs on the JK are long enough (longer than the TJ) to allow for LCAs and not require the geometry correction. I'm very happy with the brackets, though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BoomBoom View Post
Again I appreciate your help!
No problem. There are a ton of threads on this, so I'd definitely suggest reading around the JK forum to learn about 4-link suspension design and how it applies to your vehicle and lift. Good luck.
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Unread 07-14-2012, 05:11 PM   #24
en480c4
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I wish I could take credit for the progress, but while I've been traveling lately and haven't been able to make a trip up to the trailer, my father has been very, very busy. We still need to weld in the tailgate and replace some of the suspension components, but the frame and tub are coming along well.

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Unread 08-24-2012, 06:59 PM   #25
en480c4
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Not a lot of money in the Jeep budget right now, but it was a nice day today working on the trailer.

After looking at the poor job the PO did cutting out the back of the tub to make a tailgate, I realized it would be all but impossible to weld it back in. And since I didn't really want to spend $100 on a replacement panel, I decided to use some 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" x 1/8" angle and 1/8" x 3" and 2" bar stock to tie the corners back together. After some careful measuring and cuts with a nice metal blade on the miter saw, some careful drilling and getting things lined up, the repair came together. It will still need to come apart to get prep and paint, but it's nice to see the tub whole again. And I like how it looks. The back of the tub is stout, and it should serve me well.



So while it still needs paint and I need to wire up some lights, I put it behind my JKU and took a spin around the block. I could barely tell it was behind the Jeep, the pintle and NDTs were quieter than expected and it looks great. The hitch looks a little low, with about a 3" rake to the front, but the springs are new, so I'm guessing after some use it will drop a bit and look a little better. The other thing that worked out well was the extra 4" I added to the lunette when I had it repaired allows the tailgate to open completely with the trailer hooked up. This will make access for gear (and the dog) much easier.





I'm hoping to get my Sahara Tan paint this week. Then it's just a matter of painting the tub, getting final coats on the chassis/tongue, wheels and fenders, wiring up the lights and getting a license plate mounted up. I'm very happy with how things have come together. And my father's help in prepping the tub has made a huge difference in getting this done as quickly as it has with everything else I have going on.
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Unread 09-04-2012, 05:03 AM   #26
en480c4
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Well, the trailer is home. Yesterday didn't go as well as I hoped, but it all came together in the end.

Hooked up and ready to go!





The Mopar touch up cans didn't cover as well as I hoped, so I grabbed a few cans of Rustoleum Almond to get coverage over the primer. Two cans got me two coats and covered pretty well. Then the three cans of Mopar Sahara Tan got me a coat plus areas of touch up. The Almond was a little light, which worked out well because it gave me the contrast to know if I was getting good coverage. Then I took care of the wiring and got the lights working. Finally I got the new reflectors on which I left OD, and the license plate.

So Phase I is complete. Phase II will include a lid, rack and potentiall a RTT. Schedule TBD. For now, I'm just glad to have it on the road and ready to serve utility trailer duty.
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Unread 10-02-2012, 04:32 PM   #27
en480c4
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Finally got my heated seats installed, just in time for a planned late October trail ride.

They're the Mopar seat heaters made by the Check Corp, and I supplemented the kit with their premium rocker momentary switches since the stock membrane switch's lack of durability is well documented. Once the dash was apart, I had to change the planned switch location... There was too much going on right below the power window switches to allow me to drill there. I didn't want to put them down lower where I've seen others put theirs. Luckily, the premium switches came with longer harnesses, allowing me to put them somewhere I haven't seen them put before

Anyway, here's a crappy pic... Sorry!



The passenger side is shown, and the driver's side is in the same spot on the other side of the center portion of the dash. It appears to be a perfect spot... They're out of the way, but easy to reach. And they performed great on the trip home, with noticeable heat on high in a little over 30 seconds.

Install was a breeze. 4 hrs total, including the time to remove both seats, disassemble the dash and console, separate the seats and seat backs, remove the upholstery, install the heaters, reassemble, wire up the dash and reinstall the seats. The trick of using zip ties instead of hog rings to reattach the upholstery worked great. And I'm definitely glad I took the time to remove the seats... I had read that people had successfully installed the kit with the seats still in the Jeep. I'm not sure how, and things were easy enough to do it per the instructions that it wouldn't have been worth the hassle.

Anyway, between early spring and late fall top down rides, road trips and most importantly, post ski trip rides home, the heated seats will be a very welcome addition.
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Unread 02-07-2013, 07:02 AM   #28
en480c4
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Well, I'm happy to finally have an update... I was thrilled to find a great deal from Keene Jeep on a '13 Moab take-off. A customer wanted to upgrade to the AEV Premium Bumper. It was spoken for, but shipping killed the deal for the first person so I was able to pick it up. They were great to deal with, and the bumper was exactly as described and complete.

I got the bumper on and trimmed the factory plastic air dam to hold me over until I can get the front skid ordered. It's such an improvement over the stock bumper, and I'm pleased with a slight improvement in the ride with the extra weight on the 3.5" SC. I waffled back and forth between the Tubeless and Premium bumpers, but a difference of $700 + shipping made my decision very, very easy.

A driveway shot:



I'll be adding the MW3/Moab winch plate/fairlead bracket at some point, and I'll be keeping an eye out for a decent deal on a winch. That just leaves the rear bumper and gears/lockers. It's definitely been a fun project to work through. And while doing it right the first time has meant I've had to take my time, not reworking anything will definitely be worth it.

I'm really can't say enough about how pleased I am with the Jeep's performance. It does great off road and is great for road trips, too. While I'm looking forward to addressing the gearing, the 35" KM2s and the 6 speed have been fine. Things are definitely coming together.
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Unread 04-06-2013, 03:26 PM   #29
en480c4
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Well, while it's less than ideal, I've added some steps for the Jeep. My wife is 5 months along and 5'-3", so getting in and out has become more and more of an issue. I kept my Rubicon rails, so in 30 min or so, I should be ready to head out on the trail. If I'm honest, I think they'll be great for the winter too, since they'll make getting in and out easier when the ground is covered in snow and ice, and they should keep the crap from the road off the sides. So for short money I'm good to go.

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Unread 04-06-2013, 11:23 PM   #30
john304
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JK looks great! I love that color. Excited to see how it transforms over time.
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ACE. BFG. Hi-Lift. Zone. RC. Pro Comp. ORV. Bestop.

Now I need more money.
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