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New For October! Flowmaster Black Ceramic Coated 304S ExhaNew For October! Flowmaster Black Ceramic Coated 304S ExhaNew For October! Flowmaster Black Ceramic Coated 304S Exha

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Unread 04-22-2013, 07:22 PM   #136
Moabrubi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
You don't want to venture much away from that....... That's a little less than factory specs, which is desirable with the larger than factory tire size. FWIW... I'm at 5.2 according to my recent alignment. My pinion angle is between 2 and 3.... based on my crappy angle finder and crude placement.
Crappy angle finder and crude placement does seem to be an issue. When I get it back on the road I'll take it to the local tire shop for a free alignment check and see how off I am on caster. I think I'm sitting right where I need to be though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
Nope, more caster is a faster return and better straight tracking

Too much and you get prone to death wobble
4-5 is good if need be a degree or 2 less doesn't hurt.
You do not want go higher than 4-5 degrees
I think I'm pretty darn close. Caster reads 5ish degrees and pinion reads 2 degrees. I'll double check when it's back on the ground though.

Thanks guys! You prevented me from screwing up and getting the death wobblies.

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Unread 04-23-2013, 05:16 PM   #137
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My Powertank came with the monster valve kit so I decided to put them on. Pretty simple install, hopefully the rocks won't have their way with them . I'm going to carry some plugs that are the same thread in case one breaks off.

Should be able to air up a tire in about 10 seconds IIRC. Airing down is super fast too.


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Unread 04-23-2013, 10:58 PM   #138
gst95dsm
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Those are sweet! I'd like to have some myself.
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Unread 04-23-2013, 11:06 PM   #139
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Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Those are sweet! I'd like to have some myself.
I can't wait to try em out. I almost want to pop a bead just so I can hook up to the monster valve and watch it reseat .

One more dumb question for anyone. I was doing some looking around and saw that a lot of people require rear shock relocators when doing lift + TT. The Currie kit doesn't even come with these so I figured I wouldn't need them. Now I see that I might actually need them! Arghh!! More stuff I need to buy/do!

So anyone out there find out that they needed them? If so, which ones do you guys recommend? The bolt on Currie ones look like they add an awful lot of leverage on that shock mount. If I have to do this I only want to do this once (before I outboard anyways )
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Unread 04-23-2013, 11:36 PM   #140
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If you don't do it, the shock body will most likely hit the coil bucket when drooped. I would test it first. You can also clearance the coil bucket on the axle some to get it to clear. I think you can get by without them.
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Unread 04-23-2013, 11:48 PM   #141
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If you don't cut some of the back of the lower coil buckets the shocks will hit them, so yeah you need the relocators, the Currie ones are beefy
In the end relocating the shocks and out boarding them is the ticket
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Unread 04-24-2013, 12:03 AM   #142
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Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
If you don't do it, the shock body will most likely hit the coil bucket when drooped. I would test it first. You can also clearance the coil bucket on the axle some to get it to clear. I think you can get by without them.
I'll definitely test it out first, but im 95% sure I'll need them from just taking a quick peek at it. I'd rather just throw some relocators on then clearance the bucket at this point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
If you don't cut some of the back of the lower coil buckets the shocks will hit them, so yeah you need the relocators, the Currie ones are beefy
In the end relocating the shocks and out boarding them is the ticket
I wish I could just outboard it, but tires, Under Armor, driveshaft, and rear chromos are my priorites at this point. Budget isn't allowing for an outboard right now, so the $40 shock relocators will have to do. I already went over what I thought this stage of the build would cost .

I'll probably end up doing the outboard later when I get around to relocating the stock coil bucket. I'll see how it performs for now though.
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Unread 04-26-2013, 11:12 PM   #143
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Haven't really been working hard on the Jeep. There's really not much to do before I'm stuck again so I'm just doing it at my leisure. My axle seals arrived so I'll be installed my front chromos soon. Also my shock extenders arrived so I'll be putting those on as well. Ordering rear chromos next.

Since I never got a picture of the finished plate.





The contactor for the winch. I have a in/out momentary switch for the cab, but I think it needs a safety switch of some sort so it doesn't get hit on accident.



My hammering on the fender took all the paint off of it so I primed it and picked up some Duplicolor perfect match rattlecan paint. It matches pretty dang good. I started to develop some small cracks in the fender from the stress so I fixed those as well.



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Unread 04-27-2013, 06:46 AM   #144
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Dont forget to remove the bottom of the shocks when you start adjusting the pinion angle , or it will crush the shocks . Once you have your angle dialed in , start grinding until the shock clears . I was surprised at how much I had to take off , wish I could have outboarded instead .
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Unread 04-27-2013, 07:38 AM   #145
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Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
Dont forget to remove the bottom of the shocks when you start adjusting the pinion angle , or it will crush the shocks . Once you have your angle dialed in , start grinding until the shock clears . I was surprised at how much I had to take off , wish I could have outboarded instead .
Do you have the shock relocators?
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Unread 04-27-2013, 08:42 PM   #146
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Do you have the shock relocators?
No , I clearanced the buckets on mine . But not until after I crushed the shocks . Doh !
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Unread 04-27-2013, 09:59 PM   #147
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No , I clearanced the buckets on mine . But not until after I crushed the shocks . Doh !
I was going to clearance the buckets but just went the less destructive route. Plan on outboarding in the future anyways. I got lots of clearance now and they aren't as big rock anchors as I thought either. The Currie relocators are stout, I think the weak link in this setup is the welds on the axle tube.

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Unread 04-28-2013, 10:37 AM   #148
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The Currie relocators are supposed to be nice . I would have tried them , but I was in a time crunch so the grinder came out . The only negative I have seen mentioned about the Curries is that the welds at the axles do sometimes fail .
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Unread 04-28-2013, 11:24 AM   #149
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Originally Posted by G Beasley View Post
The Currie relocators are supposed to be nice . I would have tried them , but I was in a time crunch so the grinder came out . The only negative I have seen mentioned about the Curries is that the welds at the axles do sometimes fail .
They are pretty beefy, they add a significant amount of strength to the stock mount. I don't think I'll ever bend them again, if anything happens the welds will break off. I'm not really worried about that though, I can still get home and when that happens I'll probably just pull the trigger and outboard.

For those interested here they are. They attach to the stock mount in two places (one which you can't see). They would be pretty easy to make, but for $40 it's worth it to just buy them. They fit very nicely.

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Unread 04-28-2013, 11:38 AM   #150
aw12345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi View Post
They are pretty beefy, they add a significant amount of strength to the stock mount. I don't think I'll ever bend them again, if anything happens the welds will break off. I'm not really worried about that though, I can still get home and when that happens I'll probably just pull the trigger and outboard.

For those interested here they are. They attach to the stock mount in two places (one which you can't see). They would be pretty easy to make, but for $40 it's worth it to just buy them. They fit very nicely.

They are as good a relocator as they come. Eventually the whole mount will rip off
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