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post #121 of 825 Old 04-21-2013, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
Moabrubi
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Got the winch in place ready to bolt in, I just need to buy some longer bolts. All I have to say about this project is what a PITA! If you are considering doing this I suggest you get the smallest winch body you can find and have at least a 1.25" body lift.

I have no idea how Stu's winch fit with only minor clearancing. I have the same model winch he used and mine hit all along the inner fender. I sunk the plate down as low as I could with countersunk bolts and all. After an hour or two of whacking and grinding I was able to slide the plate and winch in.

Here's the inner fender. There used to be a ridge there but it's pretty flat now. The black line is from where I had considered just cutting it, but just decided to grab a bigger hammer instead.



The winch in place. You can see the bungs there in the corner. I meant to take more pictures and do a write up, but oh well.



So I just need to bolt it all in, wire it all up, and drill some new holes so I can actually put my airbox back on. Hopefully this was the hard part . I don't expect the pulley and frameside attachment to give me too much grief.

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post #122 of 825 Old 04-21-2013, 09:25 PM
aw12345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi View Post
Got the winch in place ready to bolt in, I just need to buy some longer bolts. All I have to say about this project is what a PITA! If you are considering doing this I suggest you get the smallest winch body you can find and have at least a 1.25" body lift.

I have no idea how Stu's winch fit with only minor clearancing. I have the same model winch he used and mine hit all along the inner fender. I sunk the plate down as low as I could with countersunk bolts and all. After an hour or two of whacking and grinding I was able to slide the plate and winch in.

Here's the inner fender. There used to be a ridge there but it's pretty flat now. The black line is from where I had considered just cutting it, but just decided to grab a bigger hammer instead.



The winch in place. You can see the bungs there in the corner. I meant to take more pictures and do a write up, but oh well.



So I just need to bolt it all in, wire it all up, and drill some new holes so I can actually put my airbox back on. Hopefully this was the hard part . I don't expect the pulley and frameside attachment to give me too much grief.
Harbor freight atv winch is smaller, but slow as sin.
Instead of building a bolt in plate I just welded a plate to the side of the upper spring mount, gave me a bit more room.
In the end it's worth it though

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #123 of 825 Old 04-21-2013, 09:27 PM
gst95dsm
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Good job man. Yeah the hard part is over. The pulley and driver side was simple. I finished the engine bay wiring and put the rest of the Jeep back together tonight. All I got left is interior wiring.... yippee. It'll all be worth it when you hit that button, trust me.
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post #124 of 825 Old 04-21-2013, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
Moabrubi
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Quote:
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Harbor freight atv winch is smaller, but slow as sin.
Instead of building a bolt in plate I just welded a plate to the side of the upper spring mount, gave me a bit more room.
In the end it's worth it though
If I hadn't found this Warn so cheap I would have gone with the HF winch. But considering I've always had good luck with Warn winches, I know I will never need to worry about it.

Hindsight welding the plate like you say would have been easier. Pounding out the fender wasn't too terrible though. I can't wait to climb the steep hill at the Cleghorn powerline and crawl up the ledge at Bullfrog.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gst95dsm View Post
Good job man. Yeah the hard part is over. The pulley and driver side was simple. I finished the engine bay wiring and put the rest of the Jeep back together tonight. All I got left is interior wiring.... yippee. It'll all be worth it when you hit that button, trust me.
I'm just wondering if I should wait till I have my pinion set where I want it before I install the pulley so I have a straight shot. I know I'm going to need to rotate my axle a bit after the under armor install.

Man your almost done! Wiring is probably the easiest part, I want to make a really nice panel for mine though.
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post #125 of 825 Old 04-21-2013, 09:39 PM
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You don't really want more than a few degrees of pinion angle in the front man..... You shouldn't have to adjust it for the under armor. It's WAY less sensitive than the rear to you lifting up the T-case. If you get it too high your caster will be off.
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post #126 of 825 Old 04-21-2013, 09:44 PM
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Caster over rules your pinion angle, not enough caster it will wander all over the place, to much and you will get a bad case of the death wobblies

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #127 of 825 Old 04-21-2013, 09:59 PM Thread Starter
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OK... Blaine told me the opposite. He said just point the pinion just under the output for the T-case. Caster is what it is. I do believe you guys though, how the heck do I measure for caster? I've read all kinds of different theories. What should my caster angle be?
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post #128 of 825 Old 04-21-2013, 10:06 PM
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Take a angle meter/ angle finder, you can get those from home depot, set it on top of the upper balljoint and read, do this on a level floor.
Most likely when the pinion points where it needs to be your caster is close to where it needs to be. Shoot for around 3-4 degrees

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #129 of 825 Old 04-21-2013, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Take a angle meter/ angle finder, you can get those from home depot, set it on top of the upper balljoint and read, do this on a level floor.
Most likely when the pinion points where it needs to be your caster is close to where it needs to be. Shoot for around 3-4 degrees
Easy enough. I've got an angle finder so I'll put it back on the ground and do that. Thanks!

I wonder why Blaine told me pinion is more important? I thought it was kind of odd and might make handling funky.
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post #130 of 825 Old 04-21-2013, 10:44 PM
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Kinda take the middle road, get caster and pinion angle close to where you want it

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #131 of 825 Old 04-22-2013, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Kinda take the middle road, get caster and pinion angle close to where you want it
Ill do that. As long as it drives good and I got no vibes I'm happy.
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post #132 of 825 Old 04-22-2013, 09:51 AM
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Ill do that. As long as it drives good and I got no vibes I'm happy.
you basically got a range from 2 to 6 degrees where you can work with

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #133 of 825 Old 04-22-2013, 05:57 PM Thread Starter
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you basically got a range from 2 to 6 degrees where you can work with
Less caster = faster return to center correct? Out of curiosity I put the angle finder on and it was at 4-5ish degrees, but it's on jackstands. It's sitting pretty close to ride height so I don't think it's going to change a whole lot when I put it down.
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post #134 of 825 Old 04-22-2013, 06:32 PM
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You don't want to venture much away from that....... That's a little less than factory specs, which is desirable with the larger than factory tire size. FWIW... I'm at 5.2 according to my recent alignment. My pinion angle is between 2 and 3.... based on my crappy angle finder and crude placement.
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post #135 of 825 Old 04-22-2013, 07:01 PM
aw12345
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi View Post
Less caster = faster return to center correct? Out of curiosity I put the angle finder on and it was at 4-5ish degrees, but it's on jackstands. It's sitting pretty close to ride height so I don't think it's going to change a whole lot when I put it down.
Nope, more caster is a faster return and better straight tracking

Too much and you get prone to death wobble
4-5 is good if need be a degree or 2 less doesn't hurt.
You do not want go higher than 4-5 degrees

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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