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post #211 of 825 Old 05-12-2013, 01:08 PM
aw12345
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Originally Posted by Moabrubi View Post
I'm 2.5" away from touching the bumpstops. So I would need some pretty short shocks and lose quite a bit of downtravel correct? I really don't want to do that, but I didn't want to spend the $ on outboarding either. I guess I got the wrong shocks, although on the box they say TJ 4" lift.

Don't have a cherry picker or any means to flex the suspension with the springs installed.
When you get it drivable swing by my house or go to Cleghorn, plenty of flex test spots there.


My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #212 of 825 Old 05-12-2013, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
Moabrubi
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Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
When you get it drivable swing by my house or go to Cleghorn, plenty of flex test spots there.
When I get the shocks all sorted out and everything running I'll probably shoot up to Cleghorn for a test run. I guess I'll check for coil bind there. I emailed Gerald @ Savvy to see about the shocks. But at this point it looks like outboarding might be the way to go.....

Looks like I need a shorter then I originally ordered driveshaft too. Good thing they didn't build it yet.
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post #213 of 825 Old 05-16-2013, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
Moabrubi
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I recieved my Tom Woods 1310 Rubicon driveshaft today. Mine doesn't look very nice, The paint is flaking already. Oh well, it's a tool not a jewel right?



I finally go to put it on and fine tune my pinion angle when the U-Joint wont seat into the pinion yoke. So now I have to call TW and see what to do. It sucks because I had a wheeling trip planned this weekend. Guess that's not going to happen. I guess project "Longest build on short arms ever" lives up to it's name . This has taken me wayy too long!
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post #214 of 825 Old 05-16-2013, 08:35 PM
aw12345
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Originally Posted by Moabrubi View Post
The black cloud keeps following me .

I recieved my Tom Woods 1310 Rubicon driveshaft today. Mine doesn't look very nice, The paint is flaking already. Oh well, it's a tool not a jewel right?



I finally go to put it on and fine tune my pinion angle when the U-Joint wont seat into the pinion yoke. So now I have to call TW and see what to do. It sucks because I had a wheeling trip planned this weekend. Guess that's not going to happen. I guess project "Longest build on short arms ever" lives up to it's name . This has taken me wayy too long!
The U joint cups are to big or the U joint is a hair to wide?
The latter is normal a good tap with a hammer on the cup that does not want to seat will settle in place or try to squeeze the cups together with a C clamp

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #215 of 825 Old 05-16-2013, 08:49 PM Thread Starter
Moabrubi
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Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
The U joint cups are to big or the U joint is a hair to wide?
The latter is normal a good tap with a hammer on the cup that does not want to seat will settle in place or try to squeeze the cups together with a C clamp
I can get one cap fully seated, but the other one is roughly 1/4" away from seating. It doesn't look too wide. The caps look like they will clear the centering lugs but maybe I will try the C clamp and see what happens.
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post #216 of 825 Old 05-16-2013, 08:55 PM
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If you squeezed some grease in there then that's what happend. What did you spec it with? a 1310 or a 1330 U joint? Rubicons normally use a 1330 U joint

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #217 of 825 Old 05-16-2013, 09:04 PM Thread Starter
Moabrubi
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If you squeezed some grease in there then that's what happend. What did you spec it with? a 1310 or a 1330 U joint? Rubicons normally use a 1330 U joint
I didn't squeeze any grease, it came all greased up... With ALOT of grease. I just tried the C clamp and no dice. Couldn't get enough power with the little handle. I guess I will try the hammer method tomorrow and see what happens. I'm still not sure if it's the width of the joint though.

TW reccomended a 1310 U-Joint so I wouldn't get any binding with the steep driveline angle. I believe it still uses 1330's at the double cardan on the T-Case end.
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post #218 of 825 Old 05-16-2013, 09:08 PM
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Well a 1310 U joint should fit , those are not as wide as a 1330 U joint. If all else carefully pull the cups off and take some grease out or try taking the grease fitting out so you can squeeze the grease out

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #219 of 825 Old 05-16-2013, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
Moabrubi
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Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
Well a 1310 U joint should fit , those are not as wide as a 1330 U joint. If all else carefully pull the cups off and take some grease out or try taking the grease fitting out so you can squeeze the grease out
I'll probably try that too. But I'm just not 100% sure if the width is the issue. Looks like it will clear just fine .

Tomorrow I'll take a closer look at it. Width of the joint, size of the caps etc. compared to the stock driveshaft. The stock driveshaft slips in with no problems at all.
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post #220 of 825 Old 05-16-2013, 09:21 PM
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New U joints tend to do that, good wack with a hammer on top of the cup that sticking out generally seats it in the yoke no problem The diam of the cups the same as the stock U joint?

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #221 of 825 Old 05-16-2013, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
Moabrubi
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New U joints tend to do that, good wack with a hammer on top of the cup that sticking out generally seats it in the yoke no problem The diam of the cups the same as the stock U joint?
Never mind.. got it! I took it off and got my biggest C clamp. Cranked down on it real good and it went in like butter. Looks like when they greased it the caps popped out a little.

Thanks for all the help Art. This whole Jeep has been a learning experience but I'm glad you are here to help me when I screw something up .

So tomorrow when i get home I am working on this thing until it's driveable! I hope the exhaust shop is open late enough because I still need to get that redone.
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post #222 of 825 Old 05-16-2013, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Moabrubi View Post
Never mind.. got it! I took it off and got my biggest C clamp. Cranked down on it real good and it went in like butter. Looks like when they greased it the caps popped out a little.

Thanks for all the help Art. This whole Jeep has been a learning experience but I'm glad you are here to help me when I screw something up .

So tomorrow when i get home I am working on this thing until it's driveable! I hope the exhaust shop is open late enough because I still need to get that redone.
You are welcome my friend, glad it's under control

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #223 of 825 Old 05-17-2013, 04:56 AM
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Nice! Better see some pics of it in action this weekend !

03' Rubi: 2" BDS, 1.25" BL/MML, Hylined rollin' on 35" MTR's

Hylined '03 Rubi Build

Western MA 4x4
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post #224 of 825 Old 05-18-2013, 01:45 PM Thread Starter
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Finally got it out of the garage. It drove fantastic. Getting the exhaust done now.
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post #225 of 825 Old 05-18-2013, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
Moabrubi
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So it drives pretty good. The exhaust shop did an excellent job and the exhaust clears everything with room to spare. They made it so I wouldn't smash the tip on rocks anymore either.Managed to get it to 75mph in the So.Cal traffic with no vibes or anything out of the ordinary. It's got a little less power with the 35's and 4.10s but it's manageable. I can live with these gears for a while.

Drove up to my little poser rock a couple minutes away from my house to get some pics. The front's not at full bump yet in these pics. I also was able to drive through a little wash with lots of rocks, whoops, and dips and was able to go pretty fast. The Fox shocks are really a step up from my old Bilsteins in the rough stuff!











For a mostly bolt on lift. The Savvy/Currie 4" is pretty dang hard to beat. I am very satisfied .
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