MO2500's '97 TJ Build up - Page 19

TheMiser3 · 10-21-2010, 04:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikes_muse

I may have missed it, but what did you cut the rear crosmember with, I mean the clevis holes and the shape of the it? I don't have a plasma cutter and am not looking forward to doing it with a cut off wheel lol.

For small cuts in tight places (such as those used to cut the hole for the clevis holes) you could drill an initial hole in the metal, and then use a metal cutting blade on a jigsaw to do the cuts. A jigsaw is not really practical when you are cutting large sections of thick metal, but would work just fine for the small jobs.

Mike, let me know if you've found a better way...

johnny9 · 10-21-2010, 05:25 AM

sweet looking bumper for sure

i had a few welds on my bumoer that were fine but i didnt like myself,till someone jerked on them sideways a few times and they didnt budge lol..made me feel much better !

**MO2500** · 10-21-2010, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikes_muse

I may have missed it, but what did you cut the rear crosmember with, I mean the clevis holes and the shape of the it? I don't have a plasma cutter and am not looking forward to doing it with a cut off wheel lol.

Unfortunately, all done with a cut off wheel

I would love a plasma set up but can't justify the cost just yet since I'v been able to fabricate some pretty cool things so far with just a grinder and my welder. It does take more time with the grinder but it works for now until I start fabricating a lot more or start building things for other people

mikes_muse · 10-21-2010, 11:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MO2500

Unfortunately, all done with a cut off wheel

I would love a plasma set up but can't justify the cost just yet since I'v been able to fabricate some pretty cool things so far with just a grinder and my welder. It does take more time with the grinder but it works for now until I start fabricating a lot more or start building things for other people

Sounds like you're in the same situation as me, lol. It works, but isn't ideal. Looks like I'll be starting mine this next week I think. Thanks again for the input.

mikes_muse · 10-21-2010, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheMiser3

For small cuts in tight places (such as those used to cut the hole for the clevis holes) you could drill an initial hole in the metal, and then use a metal cutting blade on a jigsaw to do the cuts. A jigsaw is not really practical when you are cutting large sections of thick metal, but would work just fine for the small jobs.

Mike, let me know if you've found a better way...

I may have to go with that jigsaw idea. At least on the clevis and receiver holes I need to cut.

johnny9 · 10-21-2010, 12:41 PM

not ideal but torch and grinder have worked for me all my life..my bumpers and all were torched and ground,even the angles on the stinger..i see the lotto in my future tho..or i will always just get by with what i know lol..like most do

Sgt.Fuzz · 10-21-2010, 02:59 PM

Great thread and nice work so far.

2000GrayTJ · 10-21-2010, 03:17 PM

what is your rear track bar setup with the 4" lift and sye? Do you think just the cv-style bracket with the stock track bar would work? Gotta get rid of the god awful t case drop..

Great build btw definitely modelling mine after it

**MO2500** · 10-21-2010, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaFuzz

Great thread and nice work so far.

Thank you

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2000GrayTJ

what is your rear track bar setup with the 4" lift and sye? Do you think just the cv-style bracket with the stock track bar would work? Gotta get rid of the god awful t case drop..

Great build btw definitely modelling mine after it

Thanks

And yes, you should be fine. I'm running the JKS cv track bar bracket (for 3-4" lift) with the stock track bar in the rear and have not had any problems with it.

**MO2500** · 10-21-2010, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikes_muse

Sounds like you're in the same situation as me, lol. It works, but isn't ideal. Looks like I'll be starting mine this next week I think. Thanks again for the input.

No problem, feel free to PM me if you have any questions or need help figuring something out

**MO2500** · 10-22-2010, 05:43 PM

Well, came back home from school this weekend and had enough time this evening to install the ZJ tie rod and set the toe again. I painted it a couple weeks ago to match the rest of my steering.

A level clamped to each rotor is how I set my toe. Anything that has a true straight edge will work. Mark them for the size of tire (33" in my case) so you have a consistent spot to measure from. Set to have an 1/8" of toe in

And a finished pic. Sorry it's a bit dark and was also taken with my cell. With the bends in the ZJ bar you lose a marginal amount of clearance over the straight stock tie rod. However, the solid steel bar is a heck of a lot stronger then the thin, hollow stock tube lol

**MO2500** · 10-28-2010, 10:51 PM

Looks like I'm ordering a new toy. Should come in handy as the Jeep addiction continues

^ That's not the actual one

But I am getting a Pro Tools model 105HD bender, degree ring, ext. handle, and a 1.75" x 6" CLR x 240 degree die set

I already have steel to build a mount for it. This winter should be fun lol

johnny9 · 10-29-2010, 06:39 AM

sweeeet

TheMiser3 · 11-01-2010, 09:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MO2500

Looks like I'm ordering a new toy. Should come in handy as the Jeep addiction continues

^ That's not the actual one

But I am getting a Pro Tools model 105HD bender, degree ring, ext. handle, and a 1.75" x 6" CLR x 240 degree die set

I already have steel to build a mount for it. This winter should be fun lol

I've been looking into these, where did you find one of these and how much was it?

**MO2500** · 11-01-2010, 12:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheMiser3

I've been looking into these, where did you find one of these and how much was it?

Sent you a PM