MO2500's '97 TJ Build up - Page 135

**MO2500** · 03-19-2012, 02:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hendrix

Funny how little the front flexes. Mine was the same till I mid armed it.

Looks Sexy

The front usually flexes very well. I think once I get the sway bar setup in the rear it will level out. Right now the rear flexes and the front anti-rock keeps the body level with the front axle.

Quote:

Originally Posted by B2CARPEN

Love it Mike!

I can't wait to see you continue the progress, I absolutely love those hoops man. What are you going to do about those cut outs? Any plans to try and cover those openings with some rubber material?

I'm planning to try and close up the interior again eventually. I was thinking maybe I'll do some paneling with some aluminum sheeting to close in around the hoops. I'll probably wheel for a while before I worry about it though and then take on little projects like that throughout the year.

aw12345 · 03-19-2012, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MO2500

Thanks Jay, I think your going to have to move up to MD, or move me down to NC, one or the other

Then we can get your jeep setup the way you want it.

What kind of uptravel are you trying to achieve at ride height? If your very close to me as far as weight is concerned 150/200 is going to put you at about 7-7.5" with 14" springs if I'm thinking about this right. I'm sitting with about 6.5" with half a tank and no tools or gear in the back on 12" springs. I just screwed the pre-load spacer down to contact the springs at full droop. I think it should settle down to 6-5.5" with a tools/gear and a full tank.

If you can't get the ride height down with the 150/200, could you maybe do a tender spring? That would allow you to move the preload adjustment up and still keep the coils from dropping loose at droop. That's an option anyway (I think). I'm no CO expert by any means but I'm trying to learn and understand them more.

King claims you should have 3" of preload on your springs for the 14" coilovers. Mike yours might still settle atleast 1" if you drive it around for a few miles then with fuel and tools it could very well squat another half inch or so.

aw12345 · 03-19-2012, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hendrix

Funny how little the front flexes. Mine was the same till I mid armed it.

Looks Sexy

Coilovers flex a lot easier than the regular coil springs might have to run the rear anti rock at the second or third hole to get it balanced out.
Came out pretty sweet Mike

**MO2500** · 03-19-2012, 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aw12345

Came out pretty sweet Mike

Thanks Art

Quote:

Originally Posted by aw12345

King claims you should have 3" of preload on your springs for the 14" coilovers. Mike yours might still settle atleast 1" if you drive it around for a few miles then with fuel and tools it could very well squat another half inch or so.

Hmm, didn't know that. What the reason for needing 3" of preload you think? I would have thought just enough to keep the springs seated at full droop would be the minimum.

Mine actually squats down an inch on the drivers side just with me sitting in it. I'll have to see if it settles any and make adjustments but I think I'm pretty close on spring rates at least for the time being.

**MO2500** · 03-19-2012, 06:14 PM

Picked up $40 of paint

aw12345 · 03-19-2012, 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MO2500

Thanks Art

Hmm, didn't know that. What the reason for needing 3" of preload you think? I would have thought just enough to keep the springs seated at full droop would be the minimum.

Mine actually squats down an inch on the drivers side just with me sitting in it. I'll have to see if it settles any and make adjustments but I think I'm pretty close on spring rates at least for the time being.

Yup they will respond to any kind of weight transfer, driving it responds a lot too without antirocks it takes a while to level out after a turn also. From what I understand the springs just need some preload. You'll just have to try and see how yours work and play with them from there.

**MO2500** · 03-19-2012, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aw12345

Yup they will respond to any kind of weight transfer, driving it responds a lot too without antirocks it takes a while to level out after a turn also. From what I understand the springs just need some preload. You'll just have to try and see how yours work and play with them from there.

I'll just have to see how she does in a few weeks and adjust from there. The good and bad about the COs is that they are fully adjustable. Good because you can change things and get it dialed in just right, bad because it's difficult and often expensive to get them tuned just right. I think I'm off to a pretty good start though. If I have problems I'll certainly adjust them.

**MO2500** · 03-19-2012, 09:09 PM

I sent out my driveshaft this morning to be lengthened. Hope I get it back before April 6th so I can make my shakedown run on the 7th. If I get everything else done and only have a driveshaft keeping me from wheeling that will suck!

jose_p_adams · 03-19-2012, 09:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MO2500

I sent out my driveshaft this morning to be lengthened. Hope I get it back before April 6th so I can make my shakedown run on the 7th. If I get everything else done and only have a driveshaft keeping me from wheeling that will suck!

Where did you send it? Just curious because I have to get mine done as well.

Sgt.Fuzz · 03-19-2012, 09:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MO2500

Picked up $40 of paint

Hell yeah. That's exactly how many cans it took to paint my whole rig. That paint just plain kicks ***.

**MO2500** · 03-19-2012, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jose_p_adams

Where did you send it? Just curious because I have to get mine done as well.

Tom Wood. If you have one of their shafts they will extend or shorten and balance for a flat fee of $65.

**MO2500** · 03-19-2012, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sgt.Fuzz

Hell yeah. That's exactly how many cans it took to paint my whole rig. That paint just plain kicks ***.

I might need more haha. I'm painting corners, rockers, the back half (probably the rest of the frame while I'm at it), axle, control arms belly skid and center crossmember, CO hoops and mounts, and the wheel wells. I'll also have a front bumper and front fenders to be painted in a couple weeks as well so I'm pretty sure I might need a couple more cans. The biggest waste of paint is trying to paint tubing, about 3/4 of the can ends up as overspray on the ground and not on the part lol.

ssyj94 · 03-19-2012, 09:42 PM

You'll love the coilovers and the jeep looks great its very similar to my yj. I'd expect the rear to sag atleast 1". I know mine did running 170/250 with a comptank/tirecarrier I've got about 3/4" of preload at wich is plenty. Also that backhalf looks sweet but why didnt you just carry the tube straight out the back and raise the bumper?

**MO2500** · 03-19-2012, 09:53 PM

I simply wanted to keep the crossmember I built for it and the somewhat stock look. I did raise the crossmember up 1.25" and eliminated the BL pucks between it and the tub so the rear bumper is higher.

jose_p_adams · 03-20-2012, 05:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MO2500

Tom Wood. If you have one of their shafts they will extend or shorten and balance for a flat fee of $65.

I do. That's fantastic. Thanks!