Alright guys, here are few more photos of the stereo install. I didnt take as many photos as I should have but you get the idea. If you have any questions let me know.
This is how the jeep looked for a week or two
New speaker wire ran under the trim at the rear of the headliner. Went through the back to the crossover which is now tucked up inside the soundbar behind the speaker
Ran the wires down the c pillar, behind the trim, to the amp mounted on the drivers side trunk wall
The front speaker wires were ran down the door sills under the trim pieces and up through the stock door grommets. The front component crossovers are mounted inside the door panels.
Rear speakers are covered by the stock grilles
I still need to pull the door panels off and check out what the tweeters are hitting. Something behind them is pushing them out not allowing the tweeter cups to sit flush. I will do this once the weather is nice and Im not on crutches and a leg brace.
I dont ever want to do another 4ch amp/new speaker wire/speaker install again. It was frustrating and a ton of work but I did actually get it to look nice and clean like I wanted.
Here is the trunk as of now, I plan on building a tool box that will match the dimensions of the sub box as well. Thats one of the next projects I will get to.
Id also like to get my windows tinted now that I have some expensive equipment in the jeep. The less thats visible the better.
On a slightly different note, I ordered a 2002 Suburban rear view mirror off ebay. It has a compass and temp sensor I plan on hooking up. should be here in the next few days.
But yeah my 4.0 has been hydrolocked twice, ran upside down for 7 seconds it still keeps coming back for more. its like that crazy ex-girlfriend that just wont quit..but unlike her, its a good thing haha
I got my 2002 Suburban mirror in today as well. Its a Gentex-177 model, paid 60 with shipping of ebay. I got the idea from Kitchen and his build.
(you PA guys might notice the shirt)
Heat shrinked the 7 wires \
Now I have to figure out the wiring to get the temp and compass functional
From the left: black w/white stripe, green w/white stripe, pink, grey, green, black and another pink
Edit: I think I found what I needed for the wiring,
Here is the low down on the connections to a Gentex mirror (with comp and temp) cut from a late model GM product. The connector pin numbers are found on the wire incursion side of the mating connector.
GM wire harness color function
PIN 1 PINK POWER +12 volts
PIN 2 BK CHASSIS, GND
PIN 3 LT GRN BACKUP LIGHTS
PIN 4 GY TO AUTO DIM OUTSIDE MIRROR
PIN 5 PINK TO AUTO DIM OUTSIDE MIRROR
PIN 6 DR GRN/WT TEMP PROBE
PIN 7 BK/WT TEMP PROBE
Note: Pin 3 is to be connected to the backup lights to turn off the auto dim feature in reverse. If you intend not to use this feature connect the LT GRN wire to chassis ground. If this pin is floating the auto dim will not work properly. Hope this helps. Walt
They are Icons off of a cherokee classic or limited. The darker ones come one the classics and full silver ones come on the limiteds. I actually had the other version on my previous cherokee, loved them.
Last night we got 5-8" of snow and I was heading back from a friends house around 12am and it was quite the epic journey. Took me about 40 minutes to drive what should take half. Made it home and the jeep did great.
Snagged a picture when I got back, you can also see our new 2007 WK with a hemi in the background, its pretty sweet.
Also, I had ordered a grill for my subwoofer and that came today as well.
While I was laying around today I decided I want to make a cold air intake. After reading srmitchell's write up as well as dkg4244's, I decided to head to Advance to see what they had. I want to keep mine as clean looking as possible without doing a whole lot of cutting.
I had thought about welding up a piece of 3" exhaust tube with a flange to bolt to the firewall but when I walked in they had exactly what I needed.
It is a 3" flange adapter from Spectre, part #8148. It will be mounted to the firewall where most people have drilled and plugged in their air tube.
Then I bought an intake tube with 3" tube adapters, Spectre part #8741.
Mounts right up to the flange adapter
If I can make a flange work with the stock air box I will buy another one and do that but if not I will have to figure something else out, I have a couple ideas.
I will do the actual install tomorrow with a little write up.
I started out by mounting the intake flange up high on the cowl wall, after testing it with the tube attached I found out the hood hit the tube so I had to move the flange down further. You can see the first set of holes above the new ones.
Then I cut the center out, started with a 2" hole saw and finished up with a dremel.
Test fit the tube and the hood still makes contact with it but its not as bad as before. It wont cause any harm now that its lower.
I used a left over tube adapter that I had laying around for the air box. Put a couple bolts in it to keep it from moving and pulling out. I traced the tube and then cut it out with the dremel. I kept the hole small so the rubber would be tight in the hole.
Mounted it at an angle so it would be easier to hook up the tube.
Sealed with RTV inside and out.
Then came the stock intake hole which had to be plugged. Some of you may remember the steering spacers I made out of a cutting board. Well I found the cutting board as I searched for something I could use. I traced the hole the best I could then cut out a rectangle as close to the size of the hole as possibile. Trimmed and ground until it fit snugly into the hole then RTV'd it in. I also put a couple screws in just to make sure it stays put.
Overall impression: It definitely pulls colder air than the unmodified air box did. Driving around I could hardly hear a difference unless I played close attention. If there is any power increase, it's so small I cant tell. Im not too worried about water getting in even though the intake flange is very close to the base of the cowl. I think the ribs on the tub will catch a lot and if there is any water that still gets in the air box/filter will take care of it.
The photos show what I did pretty well but if anyone has any question or comments feel free to send em my way.
The cables ran me $61 + $7.50 for the mil-spec battery terminals and $12 for shipping, came out to $80 and some change. They come with ends already crimped on, heat shrinked and ready to install. There are a couple different setups you can order, I did the 2XJ-242-A.
Here is the parts page with prices. You just find the category for your jeep and go with the cables you want. I emailed him and he helped me figure out what I needed, his name is Jon.
Now Im looking for a 2" budget boost or similar lift parts. I dont plan on wheeling it anytime soon but we all know how that will work out. After I get it lifted a little bit I think I might get a green trail ride set up for Rausch Creek.
I also got a lesson on relays while installing my Hella 500s. I ordered a factory fog switch and panel and plan on using this diagram to get it all wired up. I just need to wire up the factory switch and I will be done.
A few weeks ago I put on/helped install a 2" budget boost on my neighbors TJ and at that time I was looking for a set of Eccos which he had with a set of 30x9.50 a/ts. He told me I could have them for helping out so that's what the jeep is running for now until I get it lifted on the MTRs.