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ROCK BOTTOM prices on LIFT KITS at Rockridge4wd!! WANT TO Alloy usa heavy duty ball joint kitsWe have FLASHLIGHTS! Great for your Emergency bag!

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Unread 04-17-2013, 12:38 AM   #1471
robert_hollis
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Unread 04-17-2013, 07:04 AM   #1472
tofuzeppelin
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The new one was good man. I had high hopes due to the first ones and have yet to be disappointed by any of the series. Kinda bummed that the only thing Michigan gets i movies is a Demonic Book & Robocop.

It's cool to see that you Keeping this almost totally OE man.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 08:48 PM   #1473
Dr. Marneaus
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All freakin done!

Got everything reassembled, torqued to spec, etc. One of the knuckles is easier to turn than the other, but whatever, they both turn smoothly and are nice and solid. Before one was super super stiff.

I started doing the wheel studs with a lug nut and a ratchet and was all "this sucks, and is going to take forever" about 5 seconds later the lightbulb came on and I got the smart idea to go out and hit it with the impact gun. took all of 5 minutes.


But yeah, done!

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The Beast Build Thread: Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread ----- The Camper Build Thread: Marns 1980 Jayco JayFinch6 Build Thread

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Unread 04-21-2013, 09:44 PM   #1474
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Looking good Marn! Reminds me of those teeny tiny itty bitty rear wheel wells my grand waggy had. I did a lot of... uh.... trimming to fit 33x9.50x15's with a 3 inch body lift and add a leafs. I "think" you will be ok with the rear offset like that unless you lift it more.
This 83 FSJ cherokee I have out back... I dont think it has an offset rear and I think the gas tank is behind the axle, I could be wrong though.

You are going to be amazed when you get the front axle in and can turn a lot sharper lol.

The wheels and dog dishes look great! And nice job matching the pop up to your waggy, that looks pretty sweet together!

Last thing didnt I send you a glove box liner?
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Unread 04-23-2013, 12:33 AM   #1475
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After doing everything, one knuckle was way loose and the other was nice and firm, it was bugging me, so i got home around 8, grabbed the necessary tools (i knew off the top of my head haha) on my way through the garage from my work truck to the back yard, and broke the damn driver side down.

all came apart, but i DID have to hit the top of the ball joint a little with a hammer to get it loose. i definitely wasnt wailing on it.

Anyway, re-torqued everything to spec, and it was still loose. A little better but every time i tightened the top nut down to 100 ft.lbs i would have to go PAST that to get the castle nut to line up.

I undid everything and tried again. still loose.

tried again, still loose.

Tried one last time, still loose.

Okay. Went out and got the left over split sleeve, installed that, torqued everything down, and it was quite a bit better. It still sits low in the yoke (threads exposed) but everything is torqued to spec, and the steering was more stiff on that side than before. Still seems a little less than the other side, but im not going to sweat it. I checked, rechecked, rerechecked, rererechecked, and rerererechecked my work. I'm confident that everything was done to spec, everything is nice and smooth, and solid, so, I'll go with it.
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The Beast Build Thread: Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread ----- The Camper Build Thread: Marns 1980 Jayco JayFinch6 Build Thread

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Unread 04-23-2013, 06:55 PM   #1476
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Unread 04-30-2013, 05:36 PM   #1477
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Why. Why do I do it. Why do we do it?

Here it is the day i brought it home, in June of 2010.


Here it is a few weeks ago, essentially 3 years after purchase.



There is like $5500+ in there somewhere (beyond purchase price), and the only difference I see is a stock bumper that came with it, and mismatched wheels.

If physicists want to study a black hole, there's one sitting in my driveway.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 05:51 PM   #1478
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Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
Why. Why do I do it. Why do we do it?...
For 1400+ posts of comrade and entertainment, my friend.

Hoss
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Unread 04-30-2013, 06:02 PM   #1479
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i could have gotten that for free.
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Unread 04-30-2013, 10:57 PM   #1480
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done. or am i?




After spending 300 more dollars that i dont have on what i THOUGHT were the final parts of the axle that i needed to get it under the truck (200 bucks for tie rod ends, are you serious?) I realized i needed some brake hoses. Okay, no biggie.

55 dollars each, locally. 55 freaking dollars for a rubber hose with a fitting on each end. ARE YOU KIDDING ME!?!! It never ends. i cant stand it anymore.

I can order all three freaking stainless steel lines for a lifted rig for less than that from BJ's offroad. I am so pissed. I cannot stand this jeep and i regret ever starting this stupid freaking axle swap.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 12:09 AM   #1481
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I feel your pain dude. It's hard when you fear you're losing interest. Just think of how awesome it will be to get that thing under the jeep. After that, just enjoy it and maybe lay off the projects for a while. I wish you luck, you really have gone through everything on that rig. It's awesome.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 01:56 AM   #1482
balzer
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Pretty cheap if you ask me I have had my TJ for a little over 3 years I give $10,500 for it paid it down to $5500 refi'ed it for $13k and its back down to $7500 now. Now add in about $3000 in mods and to be honest visually it has different bumpers and a soft top with soft doors after selling my hard top and full doors.

So yes they cost money, but your into yours cheap, Im looking at $13,500 for the last 3 years and I still have the 4 popper and hate driving on the highway.

Im into my gladiator right around $3500 and its just sat for 3 years HAHAHA!
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Unread 05-01-2013, 12:30 PM   #1483
Dr. Marneaus
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found out a set of brake lines from a 76 K20 will do the trick, at 12 bucks each, and they are about 3" longer than stock.
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Unread 05-01-2013, 06:58 PM   #1484
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Pfft, I vote go the stainless route. At least then you know... uh... you'll know you've spent alot of money? Yeah, that's it.
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Unread 05-02-2013, 02:09 PM   #1485
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eh.

I'm cheap/poor/dont care, so, oem chevy parts it is.
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