I am glad that I ran across your thread as I am looking at a power brake swap into my 76 J10 and this will be a great reference to use . The video was also nicely done , in fact it made me comment to my wife that we need to just move West where theres so much more open land .
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First time it's been in the light of day in almost 2 months. Did the axle swap on May 12th.
That being said, she's runnin' like a champ, as always.
So, no the not so good, brakes are still messed up. 2 issues that may be separate may be related.
1. Pedal is soft when the truck is running. Still goes mostly to the floor.
2. Pedal is SUPER SLOW on the RETURN.
Now, In my mind, the pedal may7 be slow to return simply because it's moving so far.
I assume I just need to give it another bleeding, and make sure all is good. I bench bled the master while on the vehicle, using a bench bleeding Kit (the little rubber hoses) until no bubbles showed. I then bled everything 1 wheel at a time, starting at the furthers. Had my girl slowly pump the brakes, hold the pedal, I opened the valve, closed it, repeated 3 or 5 times per wheel. However it seems entirely possible i may not have done enough.
So. I've also been searching and i've read that its possible the booster can not be right, and can be fighting vacuum on the return stroke if the pedal check valves or something arent working.
It the truck is off, pedal returns with normal speed. Regardless of how far its pressed (it doesnt press all the way to the floor).
With the truck running, it presses to the floor (obviously because of the boost), and takes a few seconds to return. I've never driven a vehicle that acts like this. basically as seen below icannot "pump" the brakes because its too slow to return.
If i disconnect the vacuum line while running, it returns like normal.
What could this be and what shall I do? I figure step one is making sure they are bled properly?
New booster is in. We're on the 3rd MC. When i had the MC out I tested it. I couldnt more it more than 16th inch when it was on the bench, so i know the master is good.
Bled the brakes again, got what appeared to be all of the air out of the lines.
Went for a ride.
Pedal still goes to the floor if i push, however it doesnt have to go all the way to the floor to stop the truck from like 25mph. I can come to a stop without having the pedal on the floor. And it feels like an okay amount of resistance. However If i press hard with 1 foot (emergency stop) it'll make its way down to the floor.
When stopped, the pedal stays maybe 1" or so above the floor, but I can push it the rest of the way. So, I'm closer. they feel ALMOST right. This is progress at least.
the pedal is still kinda slow on the return. I compared it to my buddy's ford explorer with the engine running and it was about the same speed. I may have jsut never paid attention to how it comes back under vacuum, but it's better than before.
Hi Marn. I have not moniored this site for a while. I'll be interested to see if your brakes are a vast improvement over the old ones when you get it all sorted out. Has the turning radius improved a lot? as for the pumpkin, it has a rebuilt tranny, oil pan gasket, and front and rear seals. i still need to replace the radiator, but the old one is not leaking too bad right now. i just put a stock receiver hitch on the thing, which brings up a question for all of your readers out there. What does the black box, bolted to the standard hitch, with the wires running through it contain/ what is its function? Does it contain relays that will control electric brakes?
A week and a half ago I was out there and made sure to fix the one minor leak i had. It has sat since then.
I went out today and noticed the front of the prop valve was wet. "odd" i thought, i know i had fixed any leaks, and there were never any leaks on the front flare fittings anyway. It was a dark color, so either it was dirty or maybe had dried up a bit.
I hopped up, and pressed the brake pedal. it went to the floor with zero resistance. that has never happened. I checked the master cylinder and front reservoir was almost completely empty. Wha?! It has never leaked down any amount in the entire time I've been dealing with this. I got under the truck and the front of the prop valve was all wet again. I had the girl press the brake while I watched and it just gushed out fluid from the threaded fitting that the reset pin is in (metering valve).
See video: (sorry, flashlight was in my mouth, thats why i sound funny)
What the heck? I tried to tighten it and it moved a LITTLE but i was going to start stripping the brass hex head. I couldnt get it any tighter without risking damage. I pressed the pedal again and it was wet when i got under the truck.
So, my metering valve portion of my proportioning valve is leaking. Also please note that the pin on the front of my prop valve has never popped forward. It's always "in".
I dont know alot about this stuff, but from my understanding the rear builds pressure first then the metering valve allows fluid to the front. My rear brakes have worked fine this whole time, i could lock em up, but the front wouldn't work. IT seems like maybe this was preventing the front from being able to pressurize, or perhaps it was trapping air or allowing air to enter. I don't know, but it sure seems like the metering valve in my prop valve isnt working right, which would maybe explain why my front brakes have never worked right.
Obviously at this point I know I need a replacement prop valve, but could this have been causing my issues? The only weird thing is that this didn't happen in any extent close to this before. Occasionally the front of the valve would have a drop after sitting but i figured that was the flare fittings, and i hadnt seen it leak since.
Yessir, I did hear that, good for them! Should be a pretty sweet ride.
Everybody gets all up in arms about it, but think about what the Wagoneer was. It was literally the original Luxury 4wd Wagon. It wasnt a utility vehicle like a suburban or international travelall. It was cushy, low riding, poweful, and had every option available. It was literally an expensive 4wd luxury station wagon. It was never designed to be the off-road things people build out of them.
I'm totally fine with the new one going in that direction as well, because thats what they always have been.
Okay. So it runs drives and stops now. Dropped it at Vegas 4x4, they switched my vacuum lines around and adjusted the rears and bled the system (no air). Stops like 10x better and you can feel the fronts grabbin' good. With the dual diaphragm booster I can press the pedal all the way with 1 foot and scrub all 4 tires doin' 40mph. Pedal has a bunch of travel, but that seems to be the nature of the beast.
So, back to the action.
Replacing ALLLLLLLLL the rear brakes. Shoes, drums, hardware, and self adjusting components.
Got my new rear shocks in. Nothing fancy, Monroe Sensatrack Load Leveing shocks, should help big time with the camper, and also it leveled out the one corner that sagged a bit. And, they are the correct length for this application. (Yes, i know my shock mounts are crooked).
Still working on the steering wheel:
New front shocks arrive tomorrow (monroe sensatrack), new steering stabilizer as well. I've got my e-brake cables from the 73 axle connected to the 77 axle and all is well there.
After the shocks tomorrow, i need to do an alignment, and drain/fill my rear diff. Likely going to replace the cover with something beefy just because. Then it'll be back on the road until I get around to doing the rear wheel bearings.