Marn's 73 Wagoneer Thread - Page 65 - JeepForum.com

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post #961 of 1735 Old 01-16-2012, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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I may try to move the rear lights more inboard closer to the hitch to offer more protection.


-Andrew

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post #962 of 1735 Old 01-16-2012, 11:51 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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I'm gonna skip the front lights, I'll just return them for the measly 9.99 I spent on em.

I just ordered a set of H4 conversion lights. Like I said, this past summer I went through and installed some relays to take the load off my light switch and dimmer, and i've been looking at the H4's ever since then, on and off, so whatever, I spent the extra 30 bucks and ordered a set.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-H6024-H4-D...sories&vxp=mtr


Here's the link to my lighting relay thread if anybody is interested
http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=145293

-Andrew

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post #963 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 12:32 AM
robert_hollis
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Busy little beaver... What about mounting the rear lights to the cross bar of the hitch? I had some Autozone ones mounted like that once.

Do the body lift NOW! It'll help you do all the gas tank stuff, with the added space. Plus, the fun of adjusting your bumpers to match, and then the space to mount your new rear lights differently.

You read it. You can't unread it!

2006 TJ
1979 SJ
1978 Cherokee Chief - bought for parts, and sold as a runner
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post #964 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 06:00 AM
homer8613
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over the weekend i read all of this build. i hate you. your an *******. j/k i now am going to go put myself in massive debt. your waggy is awesome! i love it! i wish i didnt live in the salt belt
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post #965 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 06:23 AM
hallsofstone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robert_hollis View Post
Busy little beaver...
Do the body lift NOW! It'll help you do all the gas tank stuff, with the added space. Plus, the fun of adjusting your bumpers to match, and then the space to mount your new rear lights differently.
^ I was just thinking this to myself. Would imagine that a body lift could create some space for you to work with.

Jeeping Ohio Every Day
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post #966 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 07:27 AM
MountainMan864
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Exactly. Dont go 1'' you wont notice a difference go to 2'' please. It will give you gobs more room for the gas tank like they said. You can finally say you have a 70s waggy on 6'' lift.
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post #967 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 08:33 AM
73pumpkin
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Grumpy Homer should come up to Wyoming and buy that 80 waggy pictured on my thread for $500 or less. fly into Sheridan and drive it home.
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post #968 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 08:42 AM
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Your plywood parts look great. You could have been a cairrage builder. I sometimes post my wacky suggestions for anyone who reads this thread, not just yourself. As for the front lights, I remember looking at a 68 wagoneer that had lights like that mounted above the front bumper just inside of the turn signals.
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post #969 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
Marn
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dang it, you jerks have me thinking about a BL now.

I'm not sure what I'll need to change on the truck though.

1. steering? Is the column long enough?

2. Radiator? does it need to be moved or just the shroud?

3. Fuel tank. leave it where it is mounted and extend the body bracket or install spacers and LIFT the fuel tank providing better clearance?

4. Transmission linkage? should be long enough to add 2" of lift.

5. Bumpers? Do i have to move them, and if so how do i do that?

-Andrew

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post #970 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 01:54 PM
hallsofstone
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I'll leave those technical questions to the FSJ guys.

To return to the topic of lighting, how much space do you have between the grille and the radiator? Ever consider putting some slimline round aux lights in there? Something about the same diameter as your headlights could look great. Would be a really easy way to keep that front end looking clean and still get that extra light power everyone seems to love. From my recollection of that grille design, mounting them further away from the center should still allow plenty of cool air into the radiator and plenty of light should escape the grille louvers to make it worth it.

Jeeping Ohio Every Day
00 TJ Sport - Ever evolving DD/Rig http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/j...build-1392513/
85 Suzuki GS700 - ugly

"Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats."
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post #971 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 01:59 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hallsofstone View Post
I'll leave those technical questions to the FSJ guys.

To return to the topic of lighting, how much space do you have between the grille and the radiator? Ever consider putting some slimline round aux lights in there? Something about the same diameter as your headlights could look great. Would be a really easy way to keep that front end looking clean and still get that extra light power everyone seems to love. From my recollection of that grille design, mounting them further away from the center should still allow plenty of cool air into the radiator and plenty of light should escape the grille louvers to make it worth it.
Yeah, i could do that if i could find something slim enough. The grill support is the same as the old gladiators, there is more than enough room for lights in there are they are DESIGNED to have 4 headlights, its just hidden behind the grille.

We'll see how the H4 conversion kit i ordered turns out, that should be a huge enough improvement over the crap-tastic 7" sealed beams.

Also, i just ordered a bunch of 1" body lift pucks.

-Andrew

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post #972 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 02:03 PM
robert_hollis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
dang it, you jerks have me thinking about a BL now.

I'm not sure what I'll need to change on the truck though.

1. steering? Is the column long enough?

2. Radiator? does it need to be moved or just the shroud?

3. Fuel tank. leave it where it is mounted and extend the body bracket or install spacers and LIFT the fuel tank providing better clearance?

4. Transmission linkage? should be long enough to add 2" of lift.

5. Bumpers? Do i have to move them, and if so how do i do that?
Mine had a BL on it when I bought it, so I can't answer all those in detail, but...

1. Should be
2. shroud only, I think (I have electric fan, so...)
3. I would raise it for clearance, but for now, you can leave it.
4. Should be. will need adjusting, or now's a good time to install a cable linkage.
5. You make your own simple brackets to lift the bumpers. Or you don't worry about the gap. It's all a cosmetics thing. Also a good excuse to build new heavy duty bumpers!

You read it. You can't unread it!

2006 TJ
1979 SJ
1978 Cherokee Chief - bought for parts, and sold as a runner
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post #973 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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I'm going with a 1" Body lift.

So, only things i will have to do are

lower the shroud or radiator 1", adjust the shifter linkage and possibly raise front bumper.

I'll most likely leave the gas tank right where it is now that i think about it. I dont know why I was thinking it mounted to the body, all 3 mounts are on the frame.

1" will add some lift but also make it a lot easier to access some things on the truck (bell housing bolts, etc), which is good as well.

-Andrew

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post #974 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 02:48 PM
hallsofstone
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
Yeah, i could do that if i could find something slim enough. The grill support is the same as the old gladiators, there is more than enough room for lights in there are they are DESIGNED to have 4 headlights, its just hidden behind the grille.

We'll see how the H4 conversion kit i ordered turns out, that should be a huge enough improvement over the crap-tastic 7" sealed beams.

Also, i just ordered a bunch of 1" body lift pucks.
I've read good and bad things about the H4's. Couple folks I know have them...both seem indifferent about them now after a year or so of running them. Personally, I have a hard time telling the difference at a glance. I do recall both guys being very impressed right after they installed them.

KC Slimlites should work. Consider them a contingency plan.

Jeeping Ohio Every Day
00 TJ Sport - Ever evolving DD/Rig http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f22/j...build-1392513/
85 Suzuki GS700 - ugly

"Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats."
H. L. Mencken - US editor (1880 - 1956)

K.C.C.O. www.thechive.com
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post #975 of 1735 Old 01-17-2012, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hallsofstone View Post
I've read good and bad things about the H4's. Couple folks I know have them...both seem indifferent about them now after a year or so of running them. Personally, I have a hard time telling the difference at a glance. I do recall both guys being very impressed right after they installed them.

KC Slimlites should work. Consider them a contingency plan.
Trust me, it'll be a vast improvement.

Maybe not so much on modern rigs where everything is wired correctly, but even now I'm still used to driving with my horrible old wiring system (the headlight switch would get burning hot, i could smell it if the lights were on for more than 15 minutes).

I wired in some relays to take the load off the switch and get the power alot closer to the headlights and that alone made a big difference. I'm sure adding the H4's will be wayyyyy better than the original 7" sealed beams before i did the relays.

Also, the cost was hardly anything. I paid 40 bucks shipped for the bulbs and housings. it's all plug and play seeing as i did the relays.

-Andrew

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The Beast Build Thread: Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread ----- The Camper Build Thread: Marns 1980 Jayco JayFinch6 Build Thread

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