Marn's 73 Wagoneer Thread - Page 21 - JeepForum.com

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post #301 of 1735 Old 01-17-2011, 08:34 AM
tofuzeppelin
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great build man, hope you figure out the ghost in the trans and hope the pic above may have a reference for a 401 in the works...


01 TJ with some stuff
77 SJ Cruzer


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post #302 of 1735 Old 01-17-2011, 10:16 AM
Camo Deere
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She's coming along Marn, good luck with the leaking issues and the motor problems.

Right now I'm looking at an 85 Grand Wagoneer, it's been in and out of the shop for a lot of different problems while he's trying to sell it, must just be a Wagoneer thing
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post #303 of 1735 Old 01-17-2011, 11:12 AM
Tinga
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Looking good Marn. After we bought our Cherokee Chief I told my hubby that these damn FSJ's are like chick magnets.
We're having issues dialing in our carb. We're thinking vacuum leak somewhere possibly cause if we go any leaner, damn thing will stall out.

Girls like STROKIN too!
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f153/1971-jeepster-commando-1380633/
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post #304 of 1735 Old 01-17-2011, 02:16 PM
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Ill sell ya a good 360/th400/D20 combo...........
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post #305 of 1735 Old 01-17-2011, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tinga View Post
Looking good Marn. After we bought our Cherokee Chief I told my hubby that these damn FSJ's are like chick magnets.
We're having issues dialing in our carb. We're thinking vacuum leak somewhere possibly cause if we go any leaner, damn thing will stall out.

Try checking for leaks around the base of the carb? Spray around it with some carb cleaner, if it bogs down you know its sucking it in from somewhere.

Quote:
Originally Posted by balzer View Post
Ill sell ya a good 360/th400/D20 combo...........
I'd take you up on it if you werent 9 hours away...each way. I've found something much closer, though it was mated to a TF727, but there shouldnt be many fitment issues.

A cleaner TH400 and D20 would be nice though. Wanna drop em off for me? haha.

i guess the cats out of the bag?

Yeah, I'll be picking up a running 360 out of an 87 Grand Wagoneer this weekend. Lots of miles on it but it runs smooth and is responsive with plenty of power. Complete motor only with no manifolds or carb. seen a video of it running.

So, I'll have to figure out my plan of attack once I get it. I'm leaning towards dropping the good runner into the truck and hoping that it buys me more time/use than my current rattly knocky setup. Then keep the old motor on a stand and rebuild it as time/money permit.

Or, just rebuild the new motor?

The tranny is a whole nother question....pull it now and go over it with a fine tooth comb while the engines are being swapped? Have it rebuilt? Pull it when i put a new rebuilt motor in? I guess it sort of depends on what I'm going to do with the engine i buy.

Too many choices for this newb. biggest thing I've ever done is swapped out a clutch, and here i am buying engines and talking about rebuilds.

-Andrew

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The Beast Build Thread: Marns '73 Wagoneer Thread ----- The Camper Build Thread: Marns 1980 Jayco JayFinch6 Build Thread

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post #306 of 1735 Old 01-17-2011, 03:38 PM
McRoberts
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Sell the ld engine and current trans and get a new trans???? I have a soft spot for FSJs (especially J-Trucks).

Being Green is the new Red.
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post #307 of 1735 Old 01-17-2011, 03:57 PM
DaleII
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You shouldn't have any problems with rebuilding a motor. You're mechanically inclined enough to do it. Get yourself a good manual, and take your time. Make sure you get everything set right and don't skimp on things. Things like a new oil pump will save you a ton of headaches in the future. If you rebuild one make sure basically everything is brand new and you will have a nice running motor for years to come.

As far as which one to rebuild I guess would depend on which block you want to use etc. You might have to have them bored over, or maybe you can just get a good power hone done to it. If you've got any questions feel free to ask! Older engines like that are a piece of cake to build. Just takes time and some money.

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post #308 of 1735 Old 01-17-2011, 05:01 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McRoberts View Post
Sell the ld engine and current trans and get a new trans???? I have a soft spot for FSJs (especially J-Trucks).
Probably cheaper/easier to have the current TH400 rebuilt, they are good trannies.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleII View Post
You shouldn't have any problems with rebuilding a motor. You're mechanically inclined enough to do it. Get yourself a good manual, and take your time. Make sure you get everything set right and don't skimp on things. Things like a new oil pump will save you a ton of headaches in the future. If you rebuild one make sure basically everything is brand new and you will have a nice running motor for years to come.

As far as which one to rebuild I guess would depend on which block you want to use etc. You might have to have them bored over, or maybe you can just get a good power hone done to it. If you've got any questions feel free to ask! Older engines like that are a piece of cake to build. Just takes time and some money.
I plan on rebuilding one of them, i guess it all depends on what it's going to take to swap the new one in.

apparently I'm going to run into some non-matching parts on the back of the engine. The plate on the end of the crank is apparently different when mating to a TH400 than a TF727. Apparently I can pry off the plate from the old crank, and fit it onto the new one, but i think there are some differences in the end of the crank, so, I'm still trying to get that figured out.

-Andrew

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post #309 of 1735 Old 01-17-2011, 07:05 PM
balzer
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Your going to run into a lot of differences unfortunately. Thats why they are called AMC they used bits from every make. My 71 360 has a different crank than the 83 the heads have different holes and the accessory mounts are all different. The 83 has plastic vacuum parts that say FoMoCo on them. of course the 71 doesnt have much vacuum parts on it.

I am going to just guess that the older engine will be better quality steel, but that is not necessarily true. Still If I was to add my $.02 I would say rebuild the older engine.

Last time I had a TH400 rebuilt (probably 8+ years ago) I got it fully rebuilt with a full manual reverse valve body, an upgraded planetary, extra clutch disks and a shift improvement kit. It was right under $600. The point is you should be able to do a full rebuild and a shift kit for fairly cheap. The last th350 I had rebuilt was only $370 for a bone stock rebuild. Im betting a th400 should be close to that price range.

If I had mt gladiator torn appart I would probably deliver stuff to you as I am without a job right now. But currently the truck has 2ft of snow on it and I havent a place to get in out of the weather to work on it LMAO.

good luck man you can do the mechanical work if you set your mind to it. If you get stumped just ask questions.
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post #310 of 1735 Old 01-17-2011, 07:54 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by balzer View Post
Your going to run into a lot of differences unfortunately. Thats why they are called AMC they used bits from every make. My 71 360 has a different crank than the 83 the heads have different holes and the accessory mounts are all different. The 83 has plastic vacuum parts that say FoMoCo on them. of course the 71 doesnt have much vacuum parts on it.

I am going to just guess that the older engine will be better quality steel, but that is not necessarily true. Still If I was to add my $.02 I would say rebuild the older engine.

Last time I had a TH400 rebuilt (probably 8+ years ago) I got it fully rebuilt with a full manual reverse valve body, an upgraded planetary, extra clutch disks and a shift improvement kit. It was right under $600. The point is you should be able to do a full rebuild and a shift kit for fairly cheap. The last th350 I had rebuilt was only $370 for a bone stock rebuild. Im betting a th400 should be close to that price range.

If I had mt gladiator torn appart I would probably deliver stuff to you as I am without a job right now. But currently the truck has 2ft of snow on it and I havent a place to get in out of the weather to work on it LMAO.

good luck man you can do the mechanical work if you set your mind to it. If you get stumped just ask questions.
I'm still planning on rebuilding the older and possibly original motor. I'm not sure if its even original though.

Anyway, apparently I've got an older TH400, the nailhead style, that uses an adapter ring to mate to the engine. That means I've got a spacer/adapter on the back of my crank, which will apparently swap over to the one from the 87. I'm being told there is no pilot hole on the back of the 87 crank, but it's not an issue? I'm not positive, but folks are telling me it'll swap right over and make sense when I look at it.

i guess the issue would arise if i did not have a complete setup from 73, and was trying to drop in an 87 engine. I SHOULD be good to go with all my existing parts i guess.

-Andrew

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post #311 of 1735 Old 01-18-2011, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Here's a question:

Restore my AC to operational status (need some hard to find parts - could buy complete under-hood system w/ lines for around 200 bucks)

or

Convert my york compressor to run an OBA setup?

-Andrew

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post #312 of 1735 Old 01-18-2011, 02:02 PM
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I guess that depends... do you plan on wheelin' between May and October?

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post #313 of 1735 Old 01-18-2011, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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The crazy thing is that it is likely going to be cheaper/easier to get it setup as OBA.

The lines I need for the thing are more or less non-existant, and the same goes for the R12 refrigerant used to charge it, haha.

And i've driven it plenty in the summer heat already, so, i dunno. I doubt a 40 year old motor would like turning an ac compressor while wheelin at 5mph. Even on the highway the thing heats up, but maybe my new engine will alleviate some of that.

-Andrew

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post #314 of 1735 Old 01-18-2011, 04:56 PM
balzer
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Use the york for OBA and if you decide later you want AC go the aftermarket route.
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post #315 of 1735 Old 01-18-2011, 10:12 PM
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Why don't you do both? Putting in another york for an OBA wouldn't be hard. You also shouldn't have to use factory A/C hoses. Also if you have to fix the system anyway you can convert it to run R134 without much of a problem. IIRC it's mostly o-rings and seals that have to be replaced.

I'm not 100% sure, but it's a nice thing to have, even if you don't use it alot.

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