Marn's 73 Wagoneer Thread - Page 10 - JeepForum.com

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post #136 of 1737 Old 08-23-2010, 06:17 PM
Louie4
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The waggy is looking good. I really like them and probably know more about them than I should. My buddy had one in high school, a '75 with 401 AMC. He was always working on that thing and kept doing a halfa$$ job on fixing it so he would call me. At that point I was working on his junk more than mine. I still thought it was pretty slick. I just wish my buddy would have fixed it right.

As for the tick it seems pretty pronounced. The cheapest option is pulling the valve cover like you said. I'm thinking bad lifter, bent pushrod, maybe a worn lobe on the cam shaft as a worse case scenario. Hopefully just tightening the rockers down will do the trick but you'll be lucky if it's that easy. Let us know what you find.


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post #137 of 1737 Old 08-23-2010, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tj98 View Post
I didn't see a clear pic of your master cylinder, if your trailer controller is hooked up like the ones I've removed from pickups your going to have to bleed the brakes to remove it. I usually wait until I have to replace the master cylinder and get rid of it then. On the ones I've removed I take the "T" out and plumb the brake line back into the master cylinder.
Yeah, that's how it's set up, and thats what I figured.

Not that the truck is scary to drive, but I don't think I'd ever tow anything with it that needed brakes hooked up, its hard enough to stop on its own. And I think the jack/wiring harness on the bumper is totally out of date, haha.

If I ever get anything worth towing I'd likely just wire in the plug for the lights.

Gonna try to resolve my headlight/dash light issue tonight. picked up a new dimmer today

-Andrew

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post #138 of 1737 Old 08-23-2010, 06:28 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
The waggy is looking good. I really like them and probably know more about them than I should. My buddy had one in high school, a '75 with 401 AMC. He was always working on that thing and kept doing a halfa$$ job on fixing it so he would call me. At that point I was working on his junk more than mine. I still thought it was pretty slick. I just wish my buddy would have fixed it right.

As for the tick it seems pretty pronounced. The cheapest option is pulling the valve cover like you said. I'm thinking bad lifter, bent pushrod, maybe a worn lobe on the cam shaft as a worse case scenario. Hopefully just tightening the rockers down will do the trick but you'll be lucky if it's that easy. Let us know what you find.
Thanks for the info. The more and more I listen, the stranger it gets. Now it only seems to be audible while coasting down. Not when I let off the gas, but as i slowly coast at lower speeds, like before a stop.

It's realllly getting weirder and weirder. Not worse or better, but i feel like it's changing. I obviously cannot use a stethoscope while driving, and its totally intermittent while idling. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesnt. Now almost all the time while it's parked and running I cant hear a thing, just minor ticking or clicking, sounds like a normal older motor. I think I'm gonna recheck my flexplate this weekend.

This damn thing makes some crazy *** noises from the starter when I turn it on or try to turn it on. Every time without fail, the first time i turn the key, it sounds like the truck starts and the starter lets go, but it didnt start up. Then after that, as soon as the engine fires up, it makes a horrible grinding noise, and not the noise that happens when you hold the key too long.

I'm still thinking there's an issue somewhere in the starter/flexplate zone.

I'm probably hearing 10 different problems all at once.

-Andrew

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post #139 of 1737 Old 08-23-2010, 07:41 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Well, it was suggested I replace my dimmer switch, as that is a common source of headlight issues.

Well, i thought it looked like it was in good condition and was clean...and it was. No issues there. My flickering headlights and diving amp meter still happened, so I pulled my headlight switch finally and took a look.


Nothing heavily corroded, but this is a 37 year old switch, with 37 years of dust and crap all up inside it. I figure this is the next step in identifying the problem. Next will be to look for bad grounds or shorts somewhere. When the lihts went out the first night, i was reaching up under the dash poking and prodding, and the lights would flicker every few pokes. I figure this helps point to the switch or at least a bad connection under there. I also smelled something hot, but not quite burning. Hopefully it's on the switch and no a bad wire or connection elsewhere under there.


This is the plug that goes into it, looks like it's missing a connection, but I figure it might not be used.

-Andrew

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post #140 of 1737 Old 08-23-2010, 08:25 PM
Louie4
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You could take the valve cover off with the motor running and take a look also. Then see if you can visually see any mechanical problems while it's moving. I believe those head light switches are the same as the ones on the old CJ's. When we replaced my buddies headlight switch in his CJ it fixed a few problems. We were able to get the interior lights working. We also beefed up the grounds and that made a huge difference. I say replace the headlight switch if you still have issues.

Lou

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post #141 of 1737 Old 08-23-2010, 09:32 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Yeah, ordering a switch tomorrow. They are like 15 bucks with a 2 day delivery time at autozone. no biggie.

-Andrew

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post #142 of 1737 Old 08-27-2010, 07:59 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Blew my jeep budget on something else this weekend...but a good investment nonetheless.





not bad for 120 bucks!!!!

Thing is super sturdy, feels better than a lot of the craftsmen toolboxes I was looking at, and its a cart...and just the right size! it'll be nice to just roll that over to the jeep to work!

Guess I can only do free repairs this weekend!

-Andrew

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post #143 of 1737 Old 08-27-2010, 08:17 PM
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Marneaus View Post
Thing is super sturdy, feels better than a lot of the craftsmen toolboxes I was looking at, and its a cart...and just the right size! it'll be nice to just roll that over to the jeep to work!

Guess I can only do free repairs this weekend!
You win big time.

Lou

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post #144 of 1737 Old 08-27-2010, 09:11 PM
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I'd say that's an upgrade if I ever saw one.
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post #145 of 1737 Old 08-29-2010, 02:03 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Hmmm, could this be the culprit of my rattle clack click? Methinks I found the answer.


-Andrew

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post #146 of 1737 Old 08-29-2010, 03:31 PM
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Methinks we told you that answer. You need to adjust the rockers. There aren't supposed to click like that.

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post #147 of 1737 Old 08-29-2010, 05:13 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Originally Posted by DaleII View Post
Methinks we told you that answer. You need to adjust the rockers. There aren't supposed to click like that.
I know they arent supposed to click, haha.

As far as adjusting, from what I can tell these are just a straight torque setting. I'm being told that chevy's are different and need to be adjusted while running, but this truck is 1 straight torque spec across the board.

All the bolts are tight past spec (19 ft lbs) from what I can tell. I loosened 1 or 2 and tightened them down with a torque wrench, but they are still clicky. The bolts were so tight that it bent one of the bridges as I loosened it. I had to bend it back and turn the rocker back into place. Dunno why they're so tight.

I guess this means the rocker on the inside or the pivot are worn out. I can pick up a new set of 16 rockers and pivots and 8 bridges for like $116 bucks I think. That'll have to wait for a bit. Should be an easy enough repair once I have the parts

-Andrew

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post #148 of 1737 Old 08-29-2010, 05:19 PM
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What's the engine? It's true Chevy's have to be running to adjust them, Ford, I don't think have to be. But from my little experience, it should be one straight spec. You should be able to back them off and adjust one part to tighten the rocker, then torque another part to make sure it stays that way.

Some of the ones I've seen use and allen and nut sort of deal. You take and lossen the nut so you can turn the allen, and when you do it tightens the rocker down. Then you tighten the nut back up to lock it.

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post #149 of 1737 Old 08-29-2010, 05:23 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaleII View Post
What's the engine? It's true Chevy's have to be running to adjust them, Ford, I don't think have to be. But from my little experience, it should be one straight spec. You should be able to back them off and adjust one part to tighten the rocker, then torque another part to make sure it stays that way.

Some of the ones I've seen use and allen and nut sort of deal. You take and lossen the nut so you can turn the allen, and when you do it tightens the rocker down. Then you tighten the nut back up to lock it.
AMC 360.

There's 1 bolt inside each rocker, it goes rocker, pivot, bridge, bolt. I didn't see anything that's adjustable. It's 3 parts then 1 bolt.

Lemmie get some pics uploaded.

Edit: Instructions from a 1974 TSM:

1. Install Pushrods.
2. Install Rocker Arms
3. Install bridged pivot assembly
4. Install Capscrews and tighten to 19 Foot-Pounds of torque.
5. Install cylinder head cover and gasket.
6. install retaining screws and washers. tighten screws to specified torque.

OH and it looks like the PO missed step 6 there. I have 1 broke off valve cover bolt. *******it. The forward most bolt on the passender side is snapped off in the hole. Atleast I know how to deal with that now

-Andrew

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post #150 of 1737 Old 08-29-2010, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
Marn
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Here we go.

Apparently this is the newer style rocker, which seems to come on 74's but not 73's....so again more evidence that this truck was probably rebuilt a while ago.

So, see, rocker, pivot, bridge, bolt.



Even though I didnt technically do anything today other than poke around, it was satisfying. I atleast found what i THINK is part of the noise. I cleaned up the old cork gaskets and installed some rubber ones because I couldn't find cork locally. Hopefully it'll leak less now though.

Anyway, learning about stuff is fun. These old trucks are so simple it seems.

-Andrew

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