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Unread 11-24-2012, 02:24 PM   #61
chmo
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2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates
Posts: 1,260
ok ... because I don't want to post twice ...

here is the last trip's impression
(suspension wise):
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/pr...l#post14501064 suspension wise ...

Engine wise here the add on's:

I did the whole trip with A/C on (switches the efan as well as the transmission cooler fan to on as well) ... max temps were on the highway going 75mph for more than an hour : 216* F ... hmmm ... I don't know if my pcm settings for switching fan1 on and off when A/C is on are right for higher speeds.

But on lower speeds and in the city with A/C (and all fans) on I NEVER get temps beyond 211*F ... most of the time around 200-206 ...
(without A/C on and the e-fan cycling normally the same range)

More engine wise (POWER) :
I don't need more ... I should even say I don't WANT more (yet!)
"more" would bring my current drive train into trouble ... and would bring me and my "sluggy" in biiiiiig trouble offroad as well
I have to learn a new throttle usage and more sensitive "power management" still ... before it was simply "oh -- my auto TJ can't climb that ... oh no this bowl I am going to skip" ... etc

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Unread 11-24-2012, 02:46 PM   #62
chmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDoc25 View Post
Hi chmo, spotted your link for Oalai's rust bucket build. Once I saw LS1 i was hooked read from front to back just now.

Thanks for putting so much detail in the write up, you now have me thinking, Ripp or V8. Hmm what to do... I guess the big factor is finding a donor engine.

How do you find side sliding the dune on the way down, are you in more controlwith the 8?

Nick
Hi Nick,

side sliding a dune down ... you mean the whole slip face 50 meters down diagonally? well ... that is not recommended any way ... but control there or the lack of it has not much to do with 4.0 I6 or 5.7 V8 ... it is more dependent on the right gear and the transmission holding it and your gas foot. If you mean side cresting ... well that is more a function of the right momentum (not too fast and not too slow) and the right suspension setup and the angles (crest, and approach/traversing). Slip face down as said before is normally done with engine breaking ... avoid normal braking ... but do not avoid slight throttle sometimes

Ripp ... seems less costly and mechanically a DIY bolt on ... but less power as well ... I did NOT do it because:
1. I would have wanted a different transmission than my original 42RLE for many reasons
2. desert climate was not encouraging me to charge my I6L 4.0 bc of some cooling challenges
3. not all 2006 TJ owners were reporting a DIY and direct resolving of all tuning issues
4. less power than the smallest GM GenIII V8 upgrade

So ... instead of spending 5k (most likely 7k after all "other stuff" resolved) with the Ripp ... I aimed for the GM GenIII V8 swap.
I managed to do it for around 8k as well ... but I consider it "more reliable", more fun and more powerful and it comes with a better transmission.
Don't forget the "sound" factor as well

Only "downsides" of the V8 swap:
Much more homework to be done to do it (or get it done) right. And much more "down time". But I enjoyed every single moment!

EDIT: just noticed "Oman" in your profile ... the right "donor" would be any V8 chevy caprice or lumina post 2000 for the LS1 ... for the 5.3 LM7 any tahoe, Yukon, silverado, sierra ... plenty LS1 donors here and cheap.
The truck engines seem to be more expensive here ... And don't be afraid of the "bigger" 6.0s and 6.2's ... block wise they are all the same size ... only harness and electronics differ slightly (drive by wire? cable?) and you need to look at transmissions which are stronger than the 4L60E (e.g. 4L65E, 4L70E, 6L80 etc.)
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THE cheap progressive bump stop solution
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Unread 11-24-2012, 10:54 PM   #63
TheDoc25
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Great thanks for the info, yes in Oman. If my passport was not so full 1 page left. I would shoot over for a look a drive with you guys. Going home to Australia in 3 weeks for a 4 week break, when I get back I will be on the hunt for another Jeep for me. So throwing all ideas around, buy a basket case and drop a V8 or go for an old Rubicon if I can find 1 here in the gulf. Again thanks for great info.
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Unread 11-24-2012, 11:26 PM   #64
chmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDoc25 View Post
Great thanks for the info, yes in Oman. If my passport was not so full 1 page left. I would shoot over for a look a drive with you guys. Going home to Australia in 3 weeks for a 4 week break, when I get back I will be on the hunt for another Jeep for me. So throwing all ideas around, buy a basket case and drop a V8 or go for an old Rubicon if I can find 1 here in the gulf. Again thanks for great info.
You are welcome any time in AD ... we keep driving regularly until May in sun light. Drop me a pm a week in advance when you are ready. Have a safe and nice break
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Unread 01-13-2013, 04:18 AM   #65
chmo
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update:

tune/closed loop: ok ... finally figured out how to re enable the settings to be able to switch to closed loop!
... PO did a tuning at some place to run without ANY O2 sensors and disabling quite some features ... obviously because the tuner wanted to simplify his tuning job.
but still ... my upstream O2 sensors seem not to get hot enough to allow the pcm to switch to closed loop as early as possible ... it takes quite some "heating all up". Considering grabbing some Bosch 13111 sensors which come with a stronger heater (Corvette downstream sensors) and use those upstream.

tune/auto shifting: tweaked the torque management and the line pressures slightly to allow for firmer shifts with less clutch slippages ... especially 3->4 part throttle was awfully slow ...
and tweaked the WOT shifting rpms in such a way that I can intentionally hold a gear up till cut off at WOT. (it up shifts if I release the throttle slightly below the WOT TPS position ... or do not go WOT at all)
... and I can hold 3 a bit longer than before ... yesss

tune/fan control: lowered ON/OFF thresholds to match my newly installed 160*F Thermostat ... BEFORE my engine was running at 200-210 with 220 peaks depending on load and traffic/offroad ... NOW even with added powersteering and additional transmission cooler both in front of the condenser I was running MAX 200 OFF road ! In city driving I am usually at 190-198 ! (with A/C city driving!)



did some upgrades regarding transmission cooling:

1. my transmission temp gauge was mistakenly mounted to the wrong "colder" line ... discovered that after I started using the Scangauge to read the transmission temp from the PCM (WTF ... offroad 220-230!?)... they were like 50-70*F higher than my external gauge ... now corrected! (but the B&M gauge is still not really accurate and does not show close to PCM readings ... eff it)

2. Hayden 676 cooler in the grill in front of the condenser ... ADDITIONALLY to my under the tub mounted Derale 13960!
NOW ... and with PCM readings the transmission temps stay when warmed up between 160-180*F ... EVEN OFFROAD while DUNE BASHING FOR HOURS ... YEESSS ... (maybe my modified shift tables are contributing to this result as well)


FINALLY took the chance to do something for my powersteering oil temps:

Had ordered for this a second Hayden 676 ... and mounted it bolt together with the additional tranny cooler as one wide unit directly in front of the A/C condeser.
Could not reproduce the fading effects of a overheated powersteering anymore. And last trip on Friday was the toughest ... kind of challenge against some tuned nissan patrol (4800 vtec with a +70hp head, headers,cam tune up) over here

I like the new Hayden 676s A LOT ... great quality, RIGHT DIMESIONS TO FIT together into the grill, cheap!
I hope I have hereby ironed out all so far identified weaknesses ... will do some electrical wiring clean up (old jeep harness, aux led light wires, new LED tail lamps, flasher relay, 4-3 wire conversion of my Euro tail lamps ... etc etc) NEXT

btw ... google and summitracing are your friends for parts pics ... will see if I can take good pics of the coolers mounted ... won't be easy, since I have a grill mesh as well
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THE cheap progressive bump stop solution
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Unread 01-13-2013, 04:26 AM   #66
chmo
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mileage

ok ... now I can give a more realistic mileage ... after resolving the open/closed loop issues:

WITH 33" aggressive tires on low psi, 4.88 gear ratios and 3-4" lift:

~12 mpg city
-
~15 mpg highway

which I consider great ... considering the "new way of driving" with the new engine
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my LS1 swap build thread
THE cheap progressive bump stop solution
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Unread 01-16-2013, 02:03 AM   #67
oalali
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmo View Post
ok ... now I can give a more realistic mileage ... after resolving the open/closed loop issues:

WITH 33" aggressive tires on low psi, 4.88 gear ratios and 3-4" lift:

~12 mpg city
-
~15 mpg highway

which I consider great ... considering the "new way of driving" with the new engine
those look great .. Considering the setup ..
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Unread 03-04-2013, 03:58 PM   #68
chmo
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Posts: 1,260
Sluggy Build Status - Feb 2013

Since the actual V8 conversion is done and Sluggy meanwhile LIWA tested without ANY issues on a advanced desert trip (2 days, more than 130 km off road) I think it is time to give a general

SLUGGY BUILD STATUS
(softcore daily driven SLeeper bUGGY) as of February 2013

ready for action ...

sluggyout1c.jpg

sluggyout2.jpg

Powertrain:

- Streetlegal and officially registered 5.7 LS1 V8 conversion w/
4 spd 4L60E automatic with fully functional jeep dashboard
and ice cold Sanden FLX7 A/C!
- original Kwik Performance engine accessory brackets
- Novak adapter(s)
- Novak/Griffin 3" aluminium 2 row single core crossflow radiator,
Spal fan with full shroud (Novak system)
- Sanderson ceramic coated headers
- Spectre intake
- stainless steel 3" custom exhaust with Moroso spiralflow as resonator and Magnaflow 12589 muffler
- 160*F thermostat
- Lokar transmission cable shifter
- Lokar transfercase cable shifter
- 2x(!) Aux transmission oil coolers, one Derale 13960 with efan and temp switch and
one Hayden 676 in front of rad!
- Power steering oil cooler Hayden 676
- Corvette orange fuel rail/engine covers ... for more power, LOL


Drivetrain:

- 3" suspension lift (OME HD coil springs 933/942 + front 0.75" spacer + T&T rear spring plate relocators)
- Bilstein 5160 remote reservoir 10" travel shocks (for 3" lifted TJs, front: 25-193114, rear: 25-193145)
- Prothane progressive bump stops
- 1.25" JKS body lift
- front and rear Currie adjustable track bars
- 8x adjustable Currie JJ control arms
- Currie Anti Rock front torsion anti sway bar
- rear JKS extended anti sway bar links
- Advance Adapter SYE + Tom Woods HD CV driveshaft
- 5x Ultra 164 wheels, 33x12.5x15 Procomp Xterrain tires
- Vanco 15" Big Brake Kit with double piston calipers and Blackmagic brake pads
- front D30 axle reinforced with IRO inner sleeves and inner C gussets
- front 27 spline G2 chromoly axle shafts with Spicer 5-760x u-joints
- front TrueTrac full case gear driven LSD
- rear D44 Superior Super Truss
- rear 30 spline G2 chromoly axle shafts
- rear TrueTrac full case gear driven LSD
- Richmond Gear 4.88 regearing
- (to come: aftermarket transmission and engine skid which clears front driveshaft!)


Exterior:

- original ORFAB tire and fuel can carrier (+ 2 SS gerry cans)
- Trektop NX frameless safari / fastback top with tinted windows
- Raingler Nets extended rear and side window cargo nets
- additional Body Armor Trail Doors with side mirrors (rock doors)
- 7" OE style fender flares to fully cover big tires (flush with side wall!)
- 2x 18W KC Lazr spot leds on bumper
- 2x AOR 48W square flood leds on Mopar grille hoop
- 2x AOR 20W dual spot beams on
brushed billet aluminium Delta brackets on windshield frame
- GenRight 5pcs brushed natural aluminium hood louvers kit
- protective black powder coated steel mesh grille insert
- stainless steel Kentrol hood latches
- custom flag/fishing pole holder mounted to tire carrier
- 2x front tow hooks, 1x rear tow hook
- (to come: 2x LED tail lights, Euro to US wiring conversion)


Interior:

- fire extinguisher
- Pioneer CD/USB receiver
- Pioneer mini subwoofer/amplifier
- Rugged Ridge overhead storage system
- ICom ICF 111 VHF radio
- Transmission oil temp gauge
- handle bars
- Dakota Electronics gear shift position sensor + indicator
- electrical wiring "cleanup" and on dash switch pod with Daystar rocker switches)


oh ... and this is how I got it in October 2010 ... bone stock and "no balls"
bbeforevitamins.jpeg
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"The more I know, the more I realize how much I don't know"
my LS1 swap build thread
THE cheap progressive bump stop solution
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Unread 03-04-2013, 04:14 PM   #69
Gates72ss
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2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Pittsfield, Massachusetts
Posts: 44
Awesome write up and awesome build!!You make me wanna do that to my jeep...Funny part is that i actually have the same color deep amethyst pearl jeep and i LS2 out fo a 2005 corvette with 20k miles on it sitting in my garage.......
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Unread 03-04-2013, 04:26 PM   #70
chmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gates72ss View Post
Awesome write up and awesome build!!You make me wanna do that to my jeep...Funny part is that i actually have the same color deep amethyst pearl jeep and i LS2 out fo a 2005 corvette with 20k miles on it sitting in my garage.......
Thanks!
Same color and same engine preferences ... lol ... maybe a sign?

The LS2 only needs a different harness and pcm and is drive by wire (and has much more power).
Otherwise all the same externally ...

DO IT! (you can start collecting parts already )
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THE cheap progressive bump stop solution
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Unread 03-06-2013, 06:14 AM   #71
oalali
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Posts: 768
Let us have a race when I hopefully finish my Hemi !
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Unread 03-06-2013, 06:42 AM   #72
chmo
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sure ... and we will publish the result here !
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Unread 03-06-2013, 03:07 PM   #73
oalali
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Posts: 768
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Unread 03-18-2013, 12:04 AM   #74
chmo
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I need new 33" tires ... my procomps are nice off the road BUT

- meanwhile cupping badly
- most likely will fail next inspection in October
- have more than 2 years duty behind them ... being regularly deflated to below 10psi on weekends and bearing extreme heat in the summer.


Since October last year we have new regulations effective in the UAE which require higher tire quality standards. Besides ECE ( e number ) every batch of tires needs a special local conformity test certificate to be allowed into the country.
So simply ordering from overseas is past tense.

Actual situation :
Most nice load rate C 33x12.5x15 tires are rendered illegal here

Most likely I have to go either 16" or 17" wheels and respectively 305/70/16 or 305/65/17 in load rate D or E

right now I am torn between:

- atx slab
- raceline 231

- Staun II internal bead locks (plus wheel adapters and newer JK wheels from the local aftermarket?)

- Interco Birddog wheels

The Staun IIs plus JK wheels are the cheapest option considering the big PIA of shipping costs for any of those wheels. No reviews on the new Stauns
and no experience if they are up to the super temps here

Next would be the birddogs ... also available in 16x9 and 17x9.
Fugly and unknown results as well. (I assume they are better than standard 4x4 wheels ... we go down to about 8-10psi on standard wheels and wheel all day long with RARE pop outs.)

Coolest would be the ATX slabs in 17"! but some more $$$

Size decision is dependent on what tires I find here ...
Then I will decide on wheels (???) or Stauns.

Hey ... a V8 swap does not seem that expensive anymore looking at the cost of new shoes here.
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"The more I know, the more I realize how much I don't know"
my LS1 swap build thread
THE cheap progressive bump stop solution
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Unread 03-18-2013, 03:39 AM   #75
oalali
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I'm welling to order tires from outside just to test the new law. I have read the rules few days ago and there is a big legal gap in what they are saying.

The tire sizes you have mentioned are very rear, Especially around here.

The closest you may find is 285/70-17 ...

OR, you can go with 315/70-17 ! ..
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4l60e , conversion , ls1 , novak , v8

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