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Unread 09-30-2012, 12:11 PM   #46
chmo
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2006 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates
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Good News:
A/C control of the Sanden FLX7 now completely transparent through the dash controls ... as if it is a OE Jeep A/C. Custom piping, Audi dryer
BUT icecold (yeah no pressure switches...) so the guys who did it are recommending a in cab electronic thermostat which would cycle the A/C according to actual interior temps.
Icing the lines is quite unlikely here in the desert

Bad News: my leak at the power steering pump is still seeping some drops of fluid ... interestingly the low pressure line WAS NOT AN -10 ... they somehow needed and used a slightly smaller AN elbow hose end. (AN -8?)
I am fed up with this improvising and hack jobs! Going to order from summitracing some steel power steering AN elbow hose ends and some feet of high pressure hose tomorrow (just need to make sure which AN size fitting I will need)



(I want my monster toy back!)

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Unread 09-30-2012, 09:28 PM   #47
rcn11thacr
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Please remember to give your fuel mileage specs when you get time. Great build!
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Unread 10-04-2012, 10:39 AM   #48
chmo
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I cannot give accurate fuel mileage yet ... still not driven regularly.

all I can say: with the 4.0 I6L I could only do 200 kms before my light went on in the dashboard.
Last time I did 160 kms with the LS1 in mixed city driving and the gauge was just below half ... looks like a 50% increase to my old setup

power steering pump return line was seeping because of too large diameter hose and the hack job of a hose clamp barb setup
(too many shortcuts taken by the shop .... grrrrrr) NOW FIXED!

another nice thing ... 20 kms mixed city and urban driving in the middle of a warm day with AC on and my coolant temps NEVER got above 200* F

But in the same occasion I was monitoring open/closed loop ... and my PCM never got out of open loop ... WTF!?
(no codes triggered!)

need to dig some more ... temp above 160*F should switch to closed loop ... except when the upstream O2s are defective? ... I need to check my tune as well! Eventually the PO of the caprice did not have a stock tune in the PCM after all? (too many DTC codes were disabled already and make me suspicious now )

other than that ... here my other observations:
- with 4.88 and 33" tires and a tire size gear ratio adaptation via HPTuner I have a interesting shifting behavior :
1st gear stays engaged until 2000rpm ... which might be nice sometimes ... but on the other hand the shift into 2nd comes surprisingly when turning into a corner and is still abrupt somehow... quite confusing
- shifting behavior and torque management work much better if I have the courage to step a bit more on the throttle
- there is a surge with part throttle for a second or two after shifting into next gear SOMETIMES ... but goes away impressively mighty when pushing the pedal slightly.
- acceleration is amazing ... with no effort and no time sluggy is at max city speed of 80km/h
- from 80 km/h I am in 4th (OD) with 1500 rpms ... if I accelerate I simply see the speedo needle climb ... moments later I am running 120km/h at 2600rpms ... like sitting on a bungee rope driven sleigh (superior to any I6 4.0 I could drive before ... just mighty truck like)

I am REALLY glad I did the Vanco Big Brake conversion just before the swap !!!

All in all : wow ... still have no guts to press the skinny pedal hard ... now really curious about off road behavior ... eventually need to tamper a bit with torque management and shift points
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Unread 10-11-2012, 08:37 PM   #49
chmo
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UPDATE regarding my failed attempts to get the Lokar CIND-1725 KIT running to finally have a nice display AND reverse switch and park/neutral:

the decoder box was nuts ... despite correct wiring and quadruple checking I could not get rid of those Reverse and Drive lights being on simultaneously during programming and after ... some undocumented error code probably.

and the flimsy led display was changing lights by just touching it

(not to speak about the idiotic micro allen set screws on the cable ends)


ended up by tearing the crap out ... readjusting the switch on my lokar shifter to activate my reverse lights ... and running sluggy without park/neutral safety switch (for now?)

THE TESTING ON AND OFF PAVED RoADS HAS BEGUN
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Unread 10-11-2012, 09:39 PM   #50
tofuzeppelin
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............

Sexy TJ man
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01 TJ with some stuff
01 XJ with no rust
76 Ford with both

WTB TJ hard top, let me know what cha got
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Unread 10-12-2012, 07:05 AM   #51
chmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tofuzeppelin View Post
............

Sexy TJ man
thx, man!
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Unread 10-20-2012, 09:40 AM   #52
inkryptic
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Can give some more info on the A/C conversion? My swap starts in a few weeks and I need to finish getting the parts to go from a non-AC equipped TJ to A/C with the GM system. I have the bracket and compressor.. nothing else, though. Evap, etc. What did you need?

Thanks!

PS.. Nice thread; thanks for doing it.
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Unread 10-20-2012, 03:14 PM   #53
chmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by inkryptic View Post
Can give some more info on the A/C conversion? My swap starts in a few weeks and I need to finish getting the parts to go from a non-AC equipped TJ to A/C with the GM system. I have the bracket and compressor.. nothing else, though. Evap, etc. What did you need?

Thanks!

PS.. Nice thread; thanks for doing it.
weeellll... I started from a A/C equipped TJ which came already with the right dash controls, the A/C request signal to the PCM and the A/C clutch signal from PCM and PDC circuit. Additionally you would need a evaporator, a condenser and a filter/dryer and some aluminium piping and fittings. Important is a so called orifice tube insert and eventually some pressure switches which interrupt the A/C request signal to the PCM if some pressure is exceeded or below a minimum threshold to protect your piping and the new compressor.

I used a Audi dryer and some custom piping/fittings to/from my Sanden FLX7 ... other than that all was OE Jeep. I omitted the pressure switches as well.

For the dryer and the piping I would wait until you have populated your engine bay with the new engine first. Then you can figure out the size of the dryer. Ebay is a nice resource to check out some A/C dryers.

But all in all the A/C job is no DIY job in my eyes ... you need to evacuate the system properly and you have to apply the right amount and sort of oil while charging ... and welding aluminium pipes and doing some rubber hose press fittings was out of my scope as well.
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Unread 11-05-2012, 12:44 AM   #54
chmo
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and some more news:

Sluggy went out to some (4h) dune bashing last weekend :

woaah ...
Coolant temp climbed to 216*F MAX ... stayed below 210*F in the slower parts.
Tranny temp (sender in the hot line at the tranny) stayed below 160*F!!!

but one more finding:

After some ambitious show off high speed looong and high side sloping I noticed I really need a power steering cooler. Coming down and idling to a halt my steering became hard. pressing the throttle a bit gave it some support.
I let the engine bay cool down for 5-10 mins and my steering was back (at idle) and no more problems that day bc I took it easier.
I will swap first the cheap PS fluid which probably was used for some higher quality fluid before next trip ... and eventually shop for a cooler

Other than that Sluggy is getting some drivetrain upgrades right now :

- Superior D44 Super truss (less torque flex of the rear axle tubes )
- Currie JJ adjustable control arms (full set)
- Currie JJ trackbars (both are here, but at the moment I will only swap the rear, the front teraflex TB is still good)
- Currie Anti Rock
- Bilstein 5160 shocks for 3" lifted TJs
- T&T rear spring plate relocators to straighten the rear springs out ...
- revisiting my Prothane Coil Spring Inserts which act as progressive bump stops ... the old ones are torn here and there ... more in the other thread soon

pics to come soon

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Unread 11-05-2012, 07:18 PM   #55
Ohiojeepguy
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Just read the entire build, nice jeep!!
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Unread 11-05-2012, 10:21 PM   #56
contdevelop
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nice build! post a video of the jeep in action.
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Unread 11-07-2012, 02:26 PM   #57
chmo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chmo View Post
...

Other than that Sluggy is getting some drivetrain upgrades right now :

- Superior D44 Super truss (less torque flex of the rear axle tubes )
- Currie JJ adjustable control arms (full set)
- Currie JJ trackbars (both are here, but at the moment I will only swap the rear, the front teraflex TB is still good)
- Currie Anti Rock
- Bilstein 5160 shocks for 3" lifted TJs
- T&T rear spring plate relocators to straighten the rear springs out ...
- revisiting my Prothane Coil Spring Inserts which act as progressive bump stops ... the old ones are torn here and there ... more in the other thread soon

pics to come soon

all went in ...
for more details and pics ... especially revisiting the progressive Prothane Coil Spring Inserts ... see here:
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/pr...l#post14419242


video will get posted as soon as one of my friends doesn't forget to press "record" on his gopro over drooling while I am trying to look cool with Sluggy doing crazy things
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Unread 11-09-2012, 03:09 PM   #58
chmo
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UPDATE (after the season opening party and some play nearby in the higher dunes):

- truss is slightly touching exhaust tail pipe under full compression ... don't know if I will do something about it
- in the front the prothanes compress more than expected ... shock shaft is going in completely under full compression ... eventually a few big washers under the upper stamp will do.

OTHERWISE the suspension and the AntiRock rock!!!!

ON road a smooth and soft ride ... no strange noises what so ever ... some sway noticeable in turns ... especially with my strong engine (torque twist)!

OFF road in the dunes it is amazing ... still no noises going slow or fast ... no hard bottoming out, thanks to the prothanes! All smooth and controlled. The AntiRock makes side cresting a joy!



(BUT backing up slowly with nose pointing slightly down I heard a singular strange clunk coming from the front ... I hope my gears are still ok.
Need to check CA bolts for torque as well ... and need to check CA joints as well. The workshop guy was tempted by all those grease zerks and I forgot to tell him NOT to grease the JJs ... I hope he did not blow a joint by power greasing it )
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Unread 11-17-2012, 08:30 AM   #59
chmo
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clunk resolved:

lose control arm bolt
ALL checked and retorqued to 90/60


and another "issue" ironed out:
from day one I had a "strange" shifting from 1->2 ... one was being held for too long and then the shift to 2 came abrupt and harsh (if I did not do torque management myself with my foot).
Quite annoying and sometimes scary in tight turns

Initially I thought my tire/gear ratio adaptation with HPTuner did not work well ... so I started reading the newbie stuff about 4L60E shift tuning.
STEP ONE: check your VSS for correct readings ...
Connecting my scangaugeII and watching the pcm speed value while crawling along unveiled something: for speeds lower than 20 km/h I was getting 0 from the chevy pcm ... and then suddenly the value jumped to reasonable values. (and the shifting jumped of course too )

some reading on pirate gave me a hint that my VSS sensor was too far away from the tone ring.

so ... today I screwed the VSS completely in and backed it off 1/2 a turn.
Et voila ... now sluggy got manners (still can get wild if I stomp on the skinny )
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Unread 11-22-2012, 11:20 PM   #60
TheDoc25
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Hi chmo, spotted your link for Oalai's rust bucket build. Once I saw LS1 i was hooked read from front to back just now.

Thanks for putting so much detail in the write up, you now have me thinking, Ripp or V8. Hmm what to do... I guess the big factor is finding a donor engine.

How do you find side sliding the dune on the way down, are you in more controlwith the 8?

Nick
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