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Unread 04-20-2014, 03:19 PM   #1141
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
i havnt thought about changing the front hoops. is it necessary ? i dont seem to have problems with mine. when i went to 35' tires i started beaking front axle joints every other trip.sometimes 2 on one trip. i did upgrade to the 1995 tj axles so i hope it helps. ive only done onw trip with them and so far so good. next trip ill have 4:88 gears and with the 4-1 tc ill probably start breaking them again. the hobart 140 is a 220volt welder right? i had a 110volt and didnt like the penetration.
I want to change to the hoops to get the eye mounting option. That would give me more options for shocks and allow for a longer shock to be mounted. The Hobart 140 actually runs on 115V. You can buy one that does both voltages but it's a good deal more expensive than buying one or the other.

If I ever find a Rubicon t-case for a decent price I'll get it. I would really like that 4:1 low range.

How much did you get yours for?

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Unread 04-20-2014, 05:43 PM   #1142
'92 vegas YJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsquat
i havnt thought about changing the front hoops. is it necessary ? i dont seem to have problems with mine. when i went to 35' tires i started beaking front axle joints every other trip.sometimes 2 on one trip. i did upgrade to the 1995 tj axles so i hope it helps. ive only done onw trip with them and so far so good. next trip ill have 4:88 gears and with the 4-1 tc ill probably start breaking them again. the hobart 140 is a 220volt welder right? i had a 110volt and didnt like the penetration.
Stock shock mounts limit your amount of shock travel. I have WFO upper hoops and custom lower shock mounts. I use 14" travel shocks with an extended length of 3' and my springs still have more travel in them. You shouldn't necessarily have more breakage with the new gears and case. I run 4.56 gears with a 4.1 tcase on 35s and don't get breakage. I run stock XJ shafts in my 30. The HH140 is a 110 welder. It is a VERY good 110 welder with tons of penetration. I own one as well as a Millermatic 175.
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Unread 04-21-2014, 01:44 PM   #1143
The_Goob
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
Finally put another hanger on my exhaust and a new band clamp. Way better than I had it.
did you put this clamp over a joint where one piece of pipe slides inside the other, or was the joint butted up with same size? I just did the TJ downpipe and boogered up a weld on the top side and cant easily reach the leak there to close it up. It was right on an overlapped seam.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
I'm in transition now with location so it was the best option.

2. Synthetic rope. After installing the new winch it sunk the front end down maybe up to an inch. It was noticeable at least. I believe it still has the OEM 150' length 5/16" cable on it. I am thinking about doing 5/16" x 125' or maybe 3/8" x 100'. Haven't decided yet but it will reduce weight either way.

4. 35" Goodyear MT/R's and new wheels. This is a biggie and will take the most time to save for. My 33" KM2's still have maybe 3/8" tread but I want a bigger tire and I have the room. If I don't have the room I can make it.
Alot of guys around here run Bubba rope for the synthetic, worth a look. Also, I just got the same tires you listed, and pro comp alloy 7069 wheels. They are pretty nice.(the center bore is bigger than stock jeep though. I found them cheapest on 4wd.com and took the printout to discount tire and they beat the price by $5 on each tire and threw in free mount+balance. Alot of the online vendors were backordered on the MT/R. I paid 1388 out the door with tax for all 5 wheels and shoes. Figured I would share that, since you seem like the kind of guy who likes to beat the system like me Ended up something like 83 per wheel and 195 per tire.
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Unread 04-21-2014, 03:58 PM   #1144
84jeepcj7rock
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[QUOTE="Louie4"]Finally put another hanger on my exhaust and a new band clamp. Way better than I had it.[/QUOTE
"One time, at Band Clamp" couldn't help but think if that movie
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Unread 04-22-2014, 09:48 PM   #1145
bigsquat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Louie4 View Post
I want to change to the hoops to get the eye mounting option. That would give me more options for shocks and allow for a longer shock to be mounted. The Hobart 140 actually runs on 115V. You can buy one that does both voltages but it's a good deal more expensive than buying one or the other.

If I ever find a Rubicon t-case for a decent price I'll get it. I would really like that 4:1 low range.

How much did you get yours for?
it was out of a 2006 rubicon and if i remember it was 8 or 900.


Quote:
Originally Posted by '92 vegas YJ View Post
Stock shock mounts limit your amount of shock travel. I have WFO upper hoops and custom lower shock mounts. I use 14" travel shocks with an extended length of 3' and my springs still have more travel in them. You shouldn't necessarily have more breakage with the new gears and case. I run 4.56 gears with a 4.1 tcase on 35s and don't get breakage. I run stock XJ shafts in my 30. The HH140 is a 110 welder. It is a VERY good 110 welder with tons of penetration. I own one as well as a Millermatic 175.
thanks for the shock mount info. as for the axle joints breaking ,i guess its more tire size than gearing. it does seem that with the ability to keep turning the axle even when the tire binds in the rocks you would tend to break more because the motor wont stall as easy
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Unread 04-27-2014, 08:35 PM   #1146
Louie4
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Went back to Knoxville this weekend and found my Brown Dog mounts. I even installed them before I left Knoxville. I wanted to have them installed before I came back to tow my wife's stuff to NC.

Pics:
img_0729.jpg

img_0730.jpg

img_0731.jpg

img_0732.jpg

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Unread 05-02-2014, 08:54 AM   #1147
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those look great! i see they put a brace in the center of the motor mount. has that always been on those mounts? when i made mine i didnt do that. i wonder if ill have a problem
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red 92 yj,4.0,dana 44 rear,xj driveshaft,rubi 4-1 tc,35"tires,smitty built winch,oba, 6" flares,hand throttle,aussie's front and back,posi-lock,6" lift.anti-wrap, hombrew bumpers, rack and sliders,cb,rear shock truss <>< ,MY BUILD: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...hp?t=613943see
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Unread 05-02-2014, 04:49 PM   #1148
Louie4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigsquat View Post
those look great! i see they put a brace in the center of the motor mount. has that always been on those mounts? when i made mine i didnt do that. i wonder if ill have a problem
I'm not sure. I also got the 1" lift ones so maybe that's why. If you had painted yours yellow I wouldn't be able to tell the difference.
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Unread 05-02-2014, 05:13 PM   #1149
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Those are quite nice homemade jobbies there. I would say they look much stronger than stock so I'm sure they will hold up.
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Unread 05-02-2014, 11:59 PM   #1150
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ill keep an eye on them. i dont think a 1" raise would work on mine with the rubi transfercase being so big. it touches the body now at times. im not sure if it woud be closer or farther away . plus it would mess up my driveline angle
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red 92 yj,4.0,dana 44 rear,xj driveshaft,rubi 4-1 tc,35"tires,smitty built winch,oba, 6" flares,hand throttle,aussie's front and back,posi-lock,6" lift.anti-wrap, hombrew bumpers, rack and sliders,cb,rear shock truss <>< ,MY BUILD: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...hp?t=613943see
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Unread 05-10-2014, 05:52 AM   #1151
Louie4
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Quote:
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I have thought about my future plans for the jeep and I figured I'd make a list on here to remember and stay on track.

SOA: I have a need for more articulation out of my jeep. I want to get some 0" lift springs or stock rears, maybe even Waggy springs. I already have the steering in place to make this possible. I would just flip my drag link to the top of the Tera flex arm. I will need a traction bar and a good way to mount it. I've seen many build threads about them so I will just have to do the research.

Dual Batteries: I am finding that I use a lot of juice when wheeling and just driving. I have the Taurus fan and I will wear the battery out with the winch. I also told my wife I would fix the A/C for her at some point. That means the fan will be running as well as the compressor and blower motor. So I think it's a must. I have been reading up on a few write-ups.

High amp alternator: I figure this will get lumped into the dual batteries. My current alternator is from a 1990 Cherokee that I swapped in after mine bit the dust. It's only a matter of time until this one goes.

35" x 12.50 Tires: I'm tired of 33's. They get the job done but I bash too many rocks.

High clearance skid: May get the UCF and get the one for better clearance. I already have a 1" body lift so that's a plus.

These upgrades probably won't happen until I'm finished with my masters this December. But once I'm done and have a full-time engineering job I will be acquiring a better welder and all the parts needed. I can currently make the dual battery tray so that might be the first thing I do.
I was looking through my thread for some info and found this post. I have completed grad school and got my full-time engineering job so now I need to get a better welder and start saving.

My wife and I are closing on a house in 2 weeks (with an attached garage!) so once we get moved and I can get a better feel for my finances I can start addressing this list but I may reverse it.
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Unread 05-10-2014, 07:52 AM   #1152
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I would do 1 good battery and a good alternator. If your having a power issue while the jeeps running than the alternator isn't keeping up. Adding a second battery to that will only make it worse. Spend the money for the battery on a good alternator, we do a lot with DC power alternators at work with good results.
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Unread 05-10-2014, 11:17 AM   #1153
bigsquat
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Quote:
I was looking through my thread for some info and found this post. I have completed grad school and got my full-time engineering job so now I need to get a better welder and start saving.

My wife and I are closing on a house in 2 weeks (with an attached garage!) so once we get moved and I can get a better feel for my finances I can start addressing this list but I may reverse it.
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wow you have been busy! congrats on the job and the house.

in your list i see you want a dual battery setup with new alternator. i see a lot of guys on the trail with that setup. i still run the stock stuff and have never had a problem
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red 92 yj,4.0,dana 44 rear,xj driveshaft,rubi 4-1 tc,35"tires,smitty built winch,oba, 6" flares,hand throttle,aussie's front and back,posi-lock,6" lift.anti-wrap, hombrew bumpers, rack and sliders,cb,rear shock truss <>< ,MY BUILD: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showt...hp?t=613943see
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Unread 05-10-2014, 11:23 AM   #1154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navman View Post
I would do 1 good battery and a good alternator. If your having a power issue while the jeeps running than the alternator isn't keeping up. Adding a second battery to that will only make it worse. Spend the money for the battery on a good alternator, we do a lot with DC power alternators at work with good results.
I agree that the first priority is an upgraded alternator; however, there is no alternator that you could put in a Jeep that would keep up with a winch. The only way to improve in that area is another battery.
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Unread 05-10-2014, 12:26 PM   #1155
'92 vegas YJ
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I personally run a stock alt and a diehard platinum battery. No troubles at all.
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