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Louie4's YJ

352K views 3K replies 156 participants last post by  Skerr 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, I figured I would make a "build" thread. I have had my YJ for nearly 10 years and have been doing mods here and there so I won't have a lot of pics of the entire process.

I got my '93 YJ when I turned 16. I paid $1500 at the time which was a steal. I can't find any stock pictures but I have some of the earlier versions.

Some specs as of today:

-3.5" Black Diamond lift springs
-Stock TJ alloy wheels
-Worn out Aurora 31" x 10.5" M/T's (cheap)
-Detroit EZ locker in the rear
-Lock-Right in the front
-Yukon 4.10's front and rear (Yes I still have the D35 and I regeared it:thumbdown:)
-Some kind of hack 'n' tap SYE and a Tom Woods rear driveshaft from a wrecked '95 YJ
-Currie boomerang shackles front and rear
-Herculined Tub


Here's some pics from Tellico when I had 2" double military wrapped springs (complete crap), Liberty all-terrain 30" x 9.5" cheapo tires. I can't remember if I had my rear locker in or not.

I got my SYE from a buddy that worked at the old shop I used to work for.
I had to get the driveshaft shortened because the '95 YJ it came off of was a SOA. Took about 2" out of the center section.


I'm sure a lot of you have had this problem with the rear shock mounts on your Dana 35. I backed into a rock and after a year of on road driving it finally gave out. I replaced them this past April with some generic ones I got from a 4WD shop I rode past. I'll post the new ones up later.
Also, this was the first break. I got my neighbor to weld the piece back on one time and it broke again another year later.


This doesn't show the entire process but it shows some of the gear pattern pics of when I was re-gearing my front and rear axle. I rebuilt both axles replacing all the bearings. I set everything up myself. It was my first gear install and they haven't torn up yet so that's a good sign. I don't know if I would do it again just because of the hassle factor. I don't have all the tools a machine shop has but I have more than the average backyard mechanic. The most important tool I bought was an in-lb torque wrench. I got it from Amazon from a bike shop.


Some of the D30. I had to take the ring gear off to put the locker in. I wasn't thinking and forgot to put it in.



After I re-geared my rpm's went up and vibrations from my front driveshaft were becoming very noticeable on the road. I had originally got a ZJ front driveshaft planning on putting that on the front. I took it to the driveshaft shop and the guy there wouldn't warranty the ZJ one because going to a length of 43" with an O.D. of 1.75" he said it would fail at 3000 rpm's. I was surprised because my stock front driveshaft was that length and I have been running it for a long time. He said he would have to go to a 3" O.D. to warranty it. Well, I ended up spending $50 to have my stock one straightened and balanced. I still have a few vibes but not as bad. Here's some pics of the ZJ front driveshaft and the one I put in.
 

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#702 ·
zte87 said:
I may be doing the same thing when I install my teraflex rear shock bar, do you notice and fumes in the cab?
My exhaust is dumped right before my rear axle, it's loud, it smells, I plan to get a tail pipe...

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#705 ·
NHfireYJ said:
Tried it. Hated it. Stinky!!!
Yup, dumping the exhaust before the axle really only works for pickups where the exhaust dumps under the bed and its back far enough not to allow fumes an noise into the cab...

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#708 ·
Thanks Chris. I'm definitely down for that. I believe next semester will be wrapping up near the end of April beginning of May. Then I have to go to my sister-in-law's wedding in Jekyll Island.

I'm thinking either early April or June. I would say May but my finals are done the 5th, then the wedding on the 11th and my wife's birthday is the 29th.
 
#717 ·
Found a broken circuit that put power to the speedo back lights. Then I fixed it with a small piece of copper wire and a soldering gun.
 

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#718 ·
If you ever want to just replace it, Morris4x4 has the complete circuit ribbon for about $80 IIRC. I was so broke that I just hard-wired the entire dash directly into the harness with the soldering iron. Not even a connector plug, just soldered directly in. Its been great ever since.
 
#719 ·
Pete,

I looked into it and found that circuit ribbon but I believe it was for the '87-91 YJ's. I found another site with '92 and above and it was $173.00.

luckily this is the only bad connection I found though it wouldn't hurt if the entire ribbon was replaced.
 
#723 ·
Hey Lou,

Got any pics of your steering box relocater bracket installed? I'm looking at mine and if I move my box forward the inch, its gonna be into the upper shackle bolt...

Thanks
I'll snap a pic of my box tomorrow. I may have forgot to mention this but the braket I got not only moves the box forward 1" it also moves it 1/2" towards the pass. side. I was concerned about this as well but it fit nicely.

Pics tomorrow.:cheers2:
 
#726 ·
Louie4 said:
No problem. I'll snap a few pics tomorrow in the daylight. I've drove the jeep today and I'm pleased with how it drives.

I need to see if the drag link interferes with the frame under full stuff. It did before so I assume it still will. If so I have two options, notch the frame or modify my bumps. I'm not opposed to either.
If you modify your bumps make sure to get something besides metal, I have metal stops and they can get old when wheeling for a day listening to them making contact with the axle haha!
 

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#729 ·
My buddy got me some extended Daystars for a birthday present. I put them on but they don't line up with the axle under full compression.

For the most part I never worried much about bumps. I have a trip in a couple weeks to Morris Mountain. We'll see how it goes.
 
#731 ·
Looks good Lou. How would a steering box skid fit over top? Would it have to be custom or are there enough places to utilize the factors mounting brackets on the box to mount it? I understand the front of the skid would have to be modified. How about a steering box brace?



 
#732 ·
Thanks for the pic...

Anti, as for the skid. it shouldnt be an issue. it aligns withe the box bolts so as the box moves over so does the skid. and a brace can always be shortened a 1/2" if needed..
 
#735 ·
Question to the JF guru's.

My pass. side axle seal is leaking. I still have the CAD system and will most likely just refill the diff until warmer weather comes. I have spare shafts for the CAD system so I'm not in a rush to do a solid shaft conversion.

The question, if I were to replace the seal in the CAD would it be beneficial to put some seals in the pumpkin on the pass. side? I know there isn't a machined surface on the shafts so it would inevitably eat them up. I've seen other guys put (2) seals stacked in the pumpkin. I would put some gear oil in the CAD as well to keep it lubed.

I figure it would keep the fluid in for the most part. Or it would drain to the axle tube and keep it from getting back in.

On another note, I am riding at Morris Mountain this weekend in Alabama. Will be driving 260 miles just to wheel the jeep. We'll see if I make it home.
 
#737 ·
Question to the JF guru's.

My pass. side axle seal is leaking. I still have the CAD system and will most likely just refill the diff until warmer weather comes. I have spare shafts for the CAD system so I'm not in a rush to do a solid shaft conversion.

The question, if I were to replace the seal in the CAD would it be beneficial to put some seals in the pumpkin on the pass. side? I know there isn't a machined surface on the shafts so it would inevitably eat them up. I've seen other guys put (2) seals stacked in the pumpkin. I would put some gear oil in the CAD as well to keep it lubed.

I figure it would keep the fluid in for the most part. Or it would drain to the axle tube and keep it from getting back in.

On another note, I am riding at Morris Mountain this weekend in Alabama. Will be driving 260 miles just to wheel the jeep. We'll see if I make it home.
I'd just do the CAD seal... Like you said the inner seal may not last long due to the lack of machine surface, It's worked for years like that. a double seal is uneccessary
 
#736 ·
Louie4 said:
Question to the JF guru's.

My pass. side axle seal is leaking. I still have the CAD system and will most likely just refill the diff until warmer weather comes. I have spare shafts for the CAD system so I'm not in a rush to do a solid shaft conversion.

The question, if I were to replace the seal in the CAD would it be beneficial to put some seals in the pumpkin on the pass. side? I know there isn't a machined surface on the shafts so it would inevitably eat them up. I've seen other guys put (2) seals stacked in the pumpkin. I would put some gear oil in the CAD as well to keep it lubed.

I figure it would keep the fluid in for the most part. Or it would drain to the axle tube and keep it from getting back in.

On another note, I am riding at Morris Mountain this weekend in Alabama. Will be driving 260 miles just to wheel the jeep. We'll see if I make it home.
I just replaced my pass side CAD seal to. It's actually really easy and only took about an hour and a half. I used a piece of threaded rod and washers to press the seal in. There's no need to put a seal in the diff if your still running the CAD and two piece shafts. There's a write up on here showing the method of pressing the se in with the threaded rod but I'm sure you've seen it.

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#738 ·
I'd just do the CAD seal... Like you said the inner seal may not last long due to the lack of machine surface, It's worked for years like that. a double seal is uneccessary
Thanks guys. I'll just replace the CAD seal when Spring rolls around. I've see the threaded rod and washer write-up. Seems a lot easier than when I did it. I used a steel rod that went into a 3/4" drive extension to a 3/4" drive socket. I hit that with a hammer from the driver side axle opening...dumb.
 
#743 ·
If anyone around East Alabama wants to wheel, a buddy and I are going to Morris Mountain ORV this weekend. We'll be there Saturday morning and leaving Sunday afternoon. Camping of course. The fee is $30 for the weekend.

If you're interested just PM me.
 
#744 ·
Got back from MM today. The jeep did well. Got a few new dings and breaks. My bumper side piece was not welded too well obviously. That or I just bash it too much with rocks. My buddy busted his shackle mount on the front of the frame, my under carriage is taken on a new shape, my pass. door will not close with out a lot of persuasion, and the end of my winch cable came out of the lug on the end that threads into the drum.

Great trip though. I'll post pics tomorrow.
 
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