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Louie4's YJ

352K views 3K replies 156 participants last post by  Skerr 
#1 · (Edited)
Well, I figured I would make a "build" thread. I have had my YJ for nearly 10 years and have been doing mods here and there so I won't have a lot of pics of the entire process.

I got my '93 YJ when I turned 16. I paid $1500 at the time which was a steal. I can't find any stock pictures but I have some of the earlier versions.

Some specs as of today:

-3.5" Black Diamond lift springs
-Stock TJ alloy wheels
-Worn out Aurora 31" x 10.5" M/T's (cheap)
-Detroit EZ locker in the rear
-Lock-Right in the front
-Yukon 4.10's front and rear (Yes I still have the D35 and I regeared it:thumbdown:)
-Some kind of hack 'n' tap SYE and a Tom Woods rear driveshaft from a wrecked '95 YJ
-Currie boomerang shackles front and rear
-Herculined Tub


Here's some pics from Tellico when I had 2" double military wrapped springs (complete crap), Liberty all-terrain 30" x 9.5" cheapo tires. I can't remember if I had my rear locker in or not.

I got my SYE from a buddy that worked at the old shop I used to work for.
I had to get the driveshaft shortened because the '95 YJ it came off of was a SOA. Took about 2" out of the center section.


I'm sure a lot of you have had this problem with the rear shock mounts on your Dana 35. I backed into a rock and after a year of on road driving it finally gave out. I replaced them this past April with some generic ones I got from a 4WD shop I rode past. I'll post the new ones up later.
Also, this was the first break. I got my neighbor to weld the piece back on one time and it broke again another year later.


This doesn't show the entire process but it shows some of the gear pattern pics of when I was re-gearing my front and rear axle. I rebuilt both axles replacing all the bearings. I set everything up myself. It was my first gear install and they haven't torn up yet so that's a good sign. I don't know if I would do it again just because of the hassle factor. I don't have all the tools a machine shop has but I have more than the average backyard mechanic. The most important tool I bought was an in-lb torque wrench. I got it from Amazon from a bike shop.


Some of the D30. I had to take the ring gear off to put the locker in. I wasn't thinking and forgot to put it in.



After I re-geared my rpm's went up and vibrations from my front driveshaft were becoming very noticeable on the road. I had originally got a ZJ front driveshaft planning on putting that on the front. I took it to the driveshaft shop and the guy there wouldn't warranty the ZJ one because going to a length of 43" with an O.D. of 1.75" he said it would fail at 3000 rpm's. I was surprised because my stock front driveshaft was that length and I have been running it for a long time. He said he would have to go to a 3" O.D. to warranty it. Well, I ended up spending $50 to have my stock one straightened and balanced. I still have a few vibes but not as bad. Here's some pics of the ZJ front driveshaft and the one I put in.
 

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#409 ·
A few better pics of the knuckle. I had one our retired welders put three tacks on each just in case I need to change something. I also took a flap disk and ground the excess insert flush with the other side of the knuckle.
 

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#410 ·
Louie4 said:
A few better pics of the knuckle. I had one our retired welders put three tacks on each just in case I need to change something. I also took a flap disk and ground the excess insert flush with the other side of the knuckle.
Completely random question: what kind of welder/material/gas/power was used to weld such thick steel? (I'm starting my second year of hobby welding)
 
#411 ·
It was a Miller MIG with a wire gun. I don't know the exact model number. It also has an argon tank. It's just standard wire for steel.

The welder that did it has been welding for over 3 decades. He can weld anything that can be welded.

I can get you the specifics on the welder tomorrow if you'd like it.
 
#412 ·
Louie4 said:
It was a Miller MIG with a wire gun. I don't know the exact model number. It also has an argon tank. It's just standard wire for steel.

The welder that did it has been welding for over 3 decades. He can weld anything that can be welded.

I can get you the specifics on the welder tomorrow if you'd like it.
It's not that big of a deal. I'm still learning so much. I use a Hobart with .35 and argon. I've heard that argon (mix for you I assume) would still cool the puddle too much or that a MIG may not get good enough penetration. BUT you said he was an experienced welder so I was curious what he used. The internet is full of so called 'experts' so it's good to hear this stuff from someone you can trust.

If I were doing it I would probably distress the arm from pre heating then melt the sleeve while trying to get good penetration.

To put it more simply: I respect doing something this seemingly simple the right way.

Thanks.
 
#413 ·
I wish I was more knowledgeable about welding but until I get my own Hobart I'll just have to rely on the expertise of others. I asked him to tack the sleeves for a couple of reasons. First is because I have to do the mock up. Second, the tie rod will keep the sleeves in place when I torque them down. I may remove the sleeve on the top arm and flip it later down the line if I go SOA.
 
#414 ·
Got a good bit accomplished this afternoon.

Here's how it started. Those ball joints are the original ones from 1993. The lower one was a little wobbly but there was no movement when the knuckle was on. I never realized the top ball joint only went up and down so I originally thought my old one was seized.





Well I went with some Moog ones from O'Reilly's and also rented the press. I was dreading having to do this but I actually knocked it out quicker than I thought.



I'm getting a little excited after I got the knuckle on. I put the drag link on to see how the clearance was. Not that bad.



 
#416 ·
Well ain't this a b****. I've done this on more than one occasion.



Here's the almost finished product.





I think I will need to get the Ford Ranger pitman arm in order for the drag link to clear the tie rod.





 
#417 ·

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#418 ·
Wow Lou I hadn't seen this thread before! This is awesome all the stuff you've documented here! Thanks! I need more time to check this out.
 
#419 ·
Thanks Fernando! Hopefully it will be entertaining and informative. I do enjoy your tech threads as well. They are always top notch.

I'm surprised you haven't made a build thread yet. That propane conversion is a slick setup.
 
#421 ·
I'm hoping with the Ranger pitman arm I can clear the tie rod at full stuff on the drivers side. I'll figure something out I just need to find time to get to the junkyard in South Atlanta. I may go by the one off Buford Hwy on my way back to G-town from Athens...maybe.
 
#422 ·
Hey Lou,
I have been so busy getting my jeep ready for Moab I completely neglected to check the forum( I leave in a week and still don't have a front drive shaft made). I like the ranger arm on mine I can still turn lock to lock with it. Just make sure its a 80's 2 wheel drive with "power steering" I learned that lesson the hard way. It has about a half inch drop to it. Then all you have to do is file out the keyways which is real simple I used a hack saw to score a line down the center then a triangle file to cut it down to look like the rest of the splines now you can't even tell there was any keyways.
I guess an astro or waggy arm could work to but they would put your draglink behind your tie rod. I don't see how that would be too much of a problem since you have the tera knuckle.
 
#423 ·
I'm going to call the local yard today and see if they have one. Depending on the price and availability I might get one from there instead of heading to South Atlanta and scrounging through the Pull-a-part.
 
#425 ·
I think my build thread is going to start to slow down (not that it was fast to begin with) because life is taking me in another direction.

At the end of July I am quitting my job and moving to Knoxville, TN. I'm returning to school to pursue my Masters in Mechanical Engineering. It's something I've wanted to do since I got out of college the first go around but I listened to my mentors/bosses at my coop during school. They were real engineers in the working world who told me to go out and work first to see what I like and don't like. Another reason for going to UT (not a fan of the orange BTW) is because my fiance is doing a medical residency at the College of Veterinary Medicine there. We are going to get married in October and I don't want to start our marriage off over 260 miles apart. It will be tough going from a professional job to a poor student again but it will be worth it.

For the jeep I'm just hoping to keep it maintained and wheel it for the duration I'm in school. Once I get another real job I can get more serious and build it better.
 
#426 ·
I think my build thread is going to start to slow down (not that it was fast to begin with) because life is taking me in another direction.

At the end of July I am quitting my job and moving to Knoxville, TN. I'm returning to school to pursue my Masters in Mechanical Engineering. It's something I've wanted to do since I got out of college the first go around but I listened to my mentors/bosses at my coop during school. They were real engineers in the working world who told me to go out and work first to see what I like and don't like. Another reason for going to UT (not a fan of the orange BTW) is because my fiance is doing a medical residency at the College of Veterinary Medicine there. We are going to get married in October and I don't want to start our marriage off over 260 miles apart. It will be tough going from a professional job to a poor student again but it will be worth it.

For the jeep I'm just hoping to keep it maintained and wheel it for the duration I'm in school. Once I get another real job I can get more serious and build it better.
Good for you :highfive: An Education is so important. Im learing that the hard way:rofl: I wished I would have finished college first. Now Im trying to finish online while having a full-time job and part-time job all so my wife can be a stay at home mom. Besides better education means better job and more money to spend on the jeep:cheers2: I wish you much success
 
#427 ·
Awesome dude! Mechanical engineering is my first love but I'm a software engineer due to the money, job market, etc. (Not that I don't find it fulfilling or anything)

Going back to school for the masters and staying with your fiancee is very admirable.

BTW: having a science minded wife is great; you need to hold onto her. (My wife's a meterologist)

I won't be surprised to see this jeep project keep rolling along regardless of your college situation no matter what you say now.
 
#429 ·
Thanks for the encouraging words guys it is much appreciated. The build will slow down but not stop completely. Working on my jeep is my release and keeps me sane.

My fiance is a good one. She was my first and only girlfriend. We are high school sweethearts and started dating when I was 16 and she 15. We got engaged about a year ago in San Francisco. So I guess we're compatible. It's funny because I come from a Southern family and her family is on the opposite end of the scale. Her dad is from Connecticut and mom from Germany. Despite that we get along pretty well. It is nice having a girl who is science based. She is a veterinarian working to become a veterinary pathologist. Which means she focuses on deceased animals of all kinds and determining how they died. Most folks don't realize how vital that can be especially since most diseases/plagues begin with animals. Places that can use her expertise are diagnostic labs, USDA, FDA, and CDC. So I'm hoping she will be making the big bucks...I hope.
 
#432 ·
As you and Lora should :D I can guarantee we'll have a decent bed, extra bathroom, and plenty of coffee.

Good luck on your endeavors. I grew up in Oak Ridge. We kinda parallel each other. I have a degree in welding and automotive technician. My wife is in school earning her masters in medicine to be a physicians assistant. I even have her wanting her own Jeep now. Hope to see you on the trails. .
That's pretty sweet. There seems to be a lot of jobs down that way as well as Maryville. I'm hoping to find something part-time in town...hopefully.
 
#431 ·
Louie4 said:
Thanks for the encouraging words guys it is much appreciated. The build will slow down but not stop completely. Working on my jeep is my release and keeps me sane.

My fiance is a good one. She was my first and only girlfriend. We are high school sweethearts and started dating when I was 16 and she 15. We got engaged about a year ago in San Francisco. So I guess we're compatible. It's funny because I come from a Southern family and her family is on the opposite end of the scale. Her dad is from Connecticut and mom from Germany. Despite that we get along pretty well. It is nice having a girl who is science based. She is a veterinarian working to become a veterinary pathologist. Which means she focuses on deceased animals of all kinds and determining how they died. Most folks don't realize how vital that can be especially since most diseases/plagues begin with animals. Places that can use her expertise are diagnostic labs, USDA, FDA, and CDC. So I'm hoping she will be making the big bucks...I hope.
Good luck on your endeavors. I grew up in Oak Ridge. We kinda parallel each other. I have a degree in welding and automotive technician. My wife is in school earning her masters in medicine to be a physicians assistant. I even have her wanting her own Jeep now. Hope to see you on the trails. .
 
#433 ·
I forgot to mention. I got the toe set on my front end, tightened the jam nuts, centered the steering wheel and put cotter pins in all the TRE's. I was lucky enough to get the maintenance man to help. He's a good guy and has always helped me out. After that I decided to go around the parking lot. That was good, then I decided to go up the street. Everything was gliding and doing fine. Well then I decided to go to the next town to get some Chick-fil-a. I love Chick-fil-a and it's almost a ritual for me when I accomplish something on the jeep. The catch is I have to drive the jeep to get it.

Anyway the steering did great. It seemed to be able to make tighter turns and when I thought I had turned the wheel I normally do I could just keep turning. It was pretty nice. No bump steer whatsoever and I don't plan on running a stabilizer either. The only thing I'll need is a smaller pitman arm which I plan to get here in the next couple weeks. I actually called the local junkyard and they have it but they sell the steering box and arm as a unit for $35. I said I just need the arm and they said they could take the arm off but I'll still be paying $35. I'm thinking I may just go get one from Pull-a-part. That way I can be certain I'm getting the right one.
 
#434 ·
Hey Louie,

I've been following your steering setup closely as I have been thinking of doing the same thing. I have a couple of questions to ask now that you have it almost done.

1. At full stuff, will your drag link hit the frame rail? Are you going to have to notch it?
2. Ever think about using the M.O.R.E. steering box bracket that will move your box forward an inch. So your drag link and tie rod would clear each other? Rather than getting a new pitman arm.
3. If you were to put your tie rod under the knuckle, would that give you more clearance. Do you think it would be enough?

Any info would be great. I am real close to pulling the trigger on this one.
 
#435 ·
I still need to tweak everything and do some more suspension cycling to check clearance but here's what I can answer now.

I flipped the drag link under the top arm because I knew I'd have a clearance issue with my setup. I have not stuffed the front but the distance from the top of my axle tube to the bump stop is close to the distance between the top of the drag link to the frame. I think if I made a little plate for the top of the tube I'd be good. However, I will notch the frame if needed.

I have thought about the bracket for that and even created a thread about the drag link and tie rod interference with my stock setup. The bracket is $100. A 2WD Early 80's Ford Ranger pitman arm with power steering arm I think would do the trick. They cost $10 at Pull-a-part and I would need to file the key ways out. That sounds more appealing than taking the box off.

I think putting the tie rod under the knuckle would work but you may need to adjust the bump stops to limit up travel before they interfere with each other. I didn't want to go that route because my 33" tires do not get the steering out of the way of the large rocks. Since I was redoing it all anyway I didn't want to compromise on that.

Once I get everything dialed in and trail ready I'll post back.
 
#437 ·
#439 ·
Louie4 said:
It looks just like the one you got and the posting states its for a 1983 even. I have one more question. Is the taper from the bottom up? Will it fit a stock YJ TRE?
The taper is the same taper as the YJ one. The hole for the tre is bigger than stock YJ tre. I had to order one more goferit to make it work for my application. If you are going with a one ton tre you should be fine.
 
#441 ·
Louie4 said:
Unfortunately the drag link TRE on my setup is drilled and tapped for a stock YJ TRE. So it sounds like I'll have to get an insert for it.

Thanks for the help. :cheers2:
I hope you understood my first sentence in my last post. I meant to say the taper is on the bottom like the YJ,or did you mean the sector shaft taper? Either way they are set up the same its just the ranger tre is bigger than the YJ tre.
 
#443 ·
I just got a wild hair and started doing some research on making your own pitman arm and I found a few threads where a few guys heated their stock one's up and flattened them. Well I have access to a torch and a 100 ton press. Since my stock arm cannot be used as is I might as well give this a shot and see. I think if it was flat I could have enough clearance between the drag link and tie rod at full stuff.

I figure the worst that could happen is I trash the pitman arm and continue on with my original plan. Another outcome would be I have more clearance with the flattened stock arm and have to change it out eventually for a shorter one. I looked at my steering yesterday and I saw where the drag link hit the tie rod, most likely after hitting a bump on the road. I can at least mod my stock one for now and use my jeep on the road without the interference.

The threads I found during my research on JF:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/need-flat-pitman-arm-1360414/

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/broke-pitman-arm-today-time-beef-up-1266540/
 
#444 ·
I like both ideas its worth a shot. I didn't Think of that for mine. I have a torch but no press, it looks like one guy just used heat and a crecent wrench. Cool!! I just may try this out myself. Thanks Lou
 
#446 ·
I will probably be crucified and then burned at the stake for saying this but my stock YJ pitman arm was too long and my drag link was hitting the tie rod. I cut mine down by 3/8" and welded it back together. now it has no clearance problems. ( I tapered the edges way back, preheated good. it is welded solid right to the center. I'm betting its stronger than it originally was.)
 
#447 ·
I was originally thinking of doing that after researching. The arm itself is cast steel, not iron, so I think it can be done...if done properly. If my flattening adventure doesn't do the trick I may shorten it and have my professional welders at work TIG it back together. I'm sure they will preheat and do it right if it comes to that.

But we'll see.
 
#448 ·
I chose to use MIG on mine only because I am more comfortable with that so far. I could have TIG'd it too and it would have been solid as well. The main thing is plenty of heat and clean in between passes to remove any contamination. thats where you get bubbles in your welds quite often.
 
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