Let me first start off by saying i have owned about 10 Jeeps, and 3 Toyotas. Last jeep i owned was a 2005 Grand Cherokee that my wife drove. We decided to get rid of it and i bought a 2005 Jeep LJ.
Here are some of my past vehicles:
95 Jeep YJ
85 CJ for Parts
91 Toyota Pickup
85 Toyota Pickup
86 Toyota 4Runner
When i Bought it its all Stock:
So far what i have done is add a 1.25 JKS BL/1" MML and 2" Spacers that i had lying around from my old jeeps:
My plans are:
3" Currie Progressive Springs
Homemade Control arms all around
Metal Cloak Fenders/Or Gen-Right Hylines
Gr8 Top/Full Hardtop
ARB Lockers + 4.56 Yukon Gears
Waggy 44 Front
Currently waiting to be installed is my new Bilstein Shocks and Stock Rubicon Rock Rails.
My plan for this Jeep is to make it a Street/Trail Truck
I am active duty army stationed at fort hood but plan on moving back to colorado once my contract ends. I want to have this capable for when i go back in 2 years. This will be somewhat a slow build as the army pays us pennies but i will be doing alot of little fab work as i go. Enjoy
got my MML on today, wow what a difference any noises i herd before are now gone. I broke my fan shroud though which is a total bummer. I am heading to the pick and pull now to see if they have one i can grab. Also heading to HF to get my a nutcert tool to install my rubicon rock rails. I will do a write up on them since there really isnt many around.
Drill bits 3/16 and 9/32(Must have)
Harbor Freight Nut-cert Tool (Found here)
Step 1: Remove the Stock Flare extention
Step 2: Install 5 Nut-Certs per side on the underside of the jeep in the Hexagon style holes they will use the 1/4 size nut-certs that came with the HF tool (I have a 2005 I have herd if you have an older one you will have to drill these holes)
Step 3: Using 3 bolts and the Rock Rails, install the front/back/middle bolts into the nut-certs that you just put in. This will hold the rails in place so line up your side mount holes.
Step 4: Using a Sharpie marker trace the holes out of drilling
Step 5: Remove the rock rails at the 3 bolts you previously installed
Step 6: Using a punch make your starting spot for the drill bits
Step 7: Use your 3/16(or smaller sized drill bit of your choice) to start your holes. Make sure you don't slide the bit out of the punch hole
Step 8: Use the 9/32 Drill bit to drill your final hole (Try not to reem this hole out any since you want the nut-cert to fit as tight as possible)
Step 9: Use some primer or touch up paint around the hole to prevent rust
Step 10: Install nut-certs into the newly drilled holes, the nut-certs used on the sides are the 10-24 size from the HF tool (note: some holes if you don't want to install the nut-certs you can use a nut and bolt through the body. If you want to do this just look inside the door)
Admire your work
Step 11: Re install the underbelly bolts and then install the new side bolts and enjoy your new sliders:
If you are lucky enough to have the rubber seal that comes with the sliders use some double sided take or glue to install it to the rail. this will help it from moving around a bunch during the install and making you mad
I used the stock underside bolts with the 1/4 size nut-certs, but was unable to use the stock bolts for the side 10-24 cert-certs as they are metric.
Make sure you use plenty of beer during this install
my currie springs should be here hopefully before the weekend, going to get those installed and then start working on building control arms. I need to find the proper length for 3" lift, the arms i am building will have JJ's and Poly Bushings and will be adjustable. I dont know if i am going with square or round tubing yet.
Well ordered some more small parts today got the LEDs to do my entire dash super white, got an aa transfer case bracket to fix my shifter and got a new hinge for my swag off-road tailgate mod. Hopefully this stuff should fix some problems that I have been having. Tomorrow I'm going to install my ram mount for my iPhone and my cb hopefully the ups man comes early 😎