Little bit of tinkering aka Tinkertoy - Page 4 - JeepForum.com

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post #46 of 3079 Old 04-23-2011, 06:06 PM
JeepRocks86
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Looks good. Have you had any trouble with the drums in the rear?

I currently have a pair of 60s out of a 79 250 in my garage, but I'm going to start looking for a 70 rear so I don't have to bore the spindles out for 35 spline shafts as well as the larger ring gear.

I really like how the pit bulls perform, but I'm looking to run the 39.5s and I don't like how wide they are in that size so I will probably run IROKs because they are narrower.


Stretched TJ , Coil overs, 42" IROKS, 60/14 bolt...
'95 YJ fuel injected 302, 8.8, cage, ARBs.
'04 QC LB Cummins 4x4

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post #47 of 3079 Old 04-23-2011, 06:27 PM Thread Starter
aw12345
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The width of the tires doesn't seem to bother me or my wheelin buddy that has 42" pitbulls and is just about as wide as mine. The drums in the rear do not bother me, eventually I will change it over to discs. Now instead of a Dana 70, why not a Chevy14 bolt? They are dirt cheap and take a hell of a lot of abuse they both are big pigs so there is no difference there. I started with a Dana 60 and after considering what to do to get 35 spline shafts in there I decided the easiest was to stick a 14 bolt under there and call it good

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #48 of 3079 Old 04-23-2011, 11:15 PM
JeepRocks86
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If I recall, the 42s are narrower than the 40s for the rockers.

Isn't the 14 bolt only 30 splines? I could pull the 14 bolt out of my suburban, but that would leave me with no tow rig.

I thought the 70 was about the same size as the 60.

I figure i should be able to get some money out of my rear 60 since I only paid $100 for it.

Stretched TJ , Coil overs, 42" IROKS, 60/14 bolt...
'95 YJ fuel injected 302, 8.8, cage, ARBs.
'04 QC LB Cummins 4x4

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TJ Rear Dana 44 shaftsfor sale
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post #49 of 3079 Old 04-23-2011, 11:40 PM Thread Starter
aw12345
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Dana 70 has a bigger pumkin unless you find a Dana 70 U, for which there are no 5.38 gears available. 14 bolt is 35 spline has a nose bearing on the pinion and is pretty darn hard to break and quite easy to find, you want the one with the 10 1/2 ring gear not the 9 1/4" one. is pretty easy to distinguish the big one is the full floater

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #50 of 3079 Old 04-24-2011, 01:14 AM
JeepRocks86
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gotcha thanks. I may go for the 14 bolt. Maybe shave it a little. Everything I have read is that they are stock 30 spline with a maximum diameter of 1.54" I have heard that the coarse spline 30 spline 14 bolts are very strong though.



Did you clock your steering box to gain any front stretch? I noticed that you re did the front crossmember/ front frame
.

Stretched TJ , Coil overs, 42" IROKS, 60/14 bolt...
'95 YJ fuel injected 302, 8.8, cage, ARBs.
'04 QC LB Cummins 4x4

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TJ Rear Dana 44 shaftsfor sale
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post #51 of 3079 Old 04-24-2011, 01:44 AM Thread Starter
aw12345
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You are so right about the 14 bolt having 30 spline axle shafts, I had assumed they were 35 spline since I had matched the thickness with a broken 35 spline shaft out of a dana 70 full floater
The frame got cut and straightened and instead of doing this twice I welded a new piece to the front of it, but it is still pretty much stock length.
These pics explain it pretty well, the biggest reason for it was to make room for uptravel of the dana 60 pumkin since it sits right under the lower radiator neck. basically altering the frame this way opens things up nicely.
The only drawback is that the grille sit 2" higher than stock, but it allows 6" of up travel of a Dana 60 front axle with a 7" front end stretch
The steering box basically moved up and a few inches forward. I basically worked the basic steering and clearance issues out in one weekend.
A couple of weeks before we had done a lot of the thinking on this in a BS session drinking a few beers when we were trying to figure this out on my buddy's silver TJ built. One of the reasons our TJ's ended up looking somewhat similar















My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #52 of 3079 Old 04-25-2011, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Fairly productive day today, my buddy Fred, drilled and tapped another steering gear housing for me, thanks Fred. Then I ran over to the autoparts store and ordered a new seal kit for it, should be here tomorrow.



Then ran over to a bolts place and sourced some bolts for the diff cover and a few big allen bolts to fudge around with the steering linkage some more, would be nice to get that higher up and out of harms way.
It will have to do for now though.




The crossmember for the rear lower control arms, seems to flex, so I will beef that up before it's next outing in a few weeks.

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #53 of 3079 Old 04-26-2011, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
The crossmember for the rear lower control arms, seems to flex, so I will beef that up before it's next outing in a few weeks.
How thick was the box tubing you used for that? I was considering building a similar crossmember.


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post #54 of 3079 Old 04-26-2011, 01:13 PM Thread Starter
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1/4 wall, it keeps working the 2 bolts loose where it attaches to the skidplate
I am going to use some 2x2 1/4 tubing to angle it to the frame that should stiffen it up nicely

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #55 of 3079 Old 04-26-2011, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aw12345 View Post
1/4 wall, it keeps working the 2 bolts loose where it attaches to the skidplate
I am going to use some 2x2 1/4 tubing to angle it to the frame that should stiffen it up nicely
I think if you have room forward of the crossmember to run some 2x2 from the the area where the LCAs mount to the frame that would take care of any flex. Sounds like that's what you plan to do.


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post #56 of 3079 Old 04-27-2011, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Started messing with a few things today. First called king and discusses what to do to get the Jeep to sit 2" higher, so will swap some springs later this week. Then started messing with the rear crossmember and cut this piece for it, needs a bit more trimming and that can be welded in.


My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #57 of 3079 Old 04-29-2011, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like I might end up with a Chevy astro van to part out, if that comes about then the Jeep will most likely sport a 4.3 V6 and a 4L60E before the summer is out. We will see where it goes. Yesterday swapped some of the springs around, now the back sits where I want it and will have to visit King Shocks on Monday for some beefier springs for the front.
This weekend , it's time to finish bracing the rear crossmember and get a handle on the steering

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #58 of 3079 Old 05-01-2011, 11:08 PM
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it is looking epic man AWESOME work
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post #59 of 3079 Old 05-02-2011, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
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Looks like swapping the 150 lbs springs from the front to the rear and sticking some 250 lbs springs in the front got the ride height issue resolved

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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post #60 of 3079 Old 05-07-2011, 10:21 PM Thread Starter
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Tackled the steering and diff cover today, took a bit of work but, the steering gear is rebuilt and working the way it should.
Straightened the tierod, that thing started to look like a pretzel, had 4 different bends in it from the last round of trail fun. Didn't hurt the auxiliary ram any though. I guess this summer I'll get around to giving the Jeep a true high steer setup or something close to that.
Swapped the leaking diff cover and fixed the a few fuel vapor lines that had a small leak according to the OBD 2 system.
All that is left is a bit of welding tomorrow and sticking the belly skid back on and she is good for another round of hammering

My Tinkering and wheeling thread http://tinyurl.com/pbwdm5u
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