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post #16 of 178 Old 11-18-2011, 09:54 PM
ksilovich
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1998 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Location: Ottawa
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Finally!!!!!!!!!


Jeffery 2.0 : Cummins 4bt, 40's, ORI's, D60, 14B, lots of AL
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post #17 of 178 Old 11-19-2011, 02:11 AM
Optiskate
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Very nice!

-Brad
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post #18 of 178 Old 11-19-2011, 06:35 AM
lovett86
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thats an awesome build
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post #19 of 178 Old 11-21-2011, 02:11 PM Thread Starter
Red_Smoke
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A couple more shots. This frame was in better shape than my last TJ, but I went ahead and made frame gussets to fix the rust that was starting at the UCA access hole. The Genright stuff was made for a 4" stretch, but you can see how offset the tire is in their wheel opening. And even with the new stretch tube fenders, they hung off the back, so tried my hand at cutting/sectioning out 6" of the rear part of the flare. Also ended up making a plate to fill in the gas tank filler opening since it was gonna be covered now.







2007 WK CRD: DD @ 27mpg, tuned by Keith at GDE
1997 100" TJ: Cummins/NSG370/TeraNomore/37's and leaf springs - Gone!
Lil Green Bean build thread
2008 Rubi Unlimited: Gone!
Smashin' Punkin - 06 Rubi LJ, Cummins QSB3.3, work in progress
IndyORV
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post #20 of 178 Old 11-21-2011, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
Red_Smoke
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More pictures of how I did the rear wheel well openings. These are Genright ext rear armor with standard 3" flares sectioned to match the body lines.






2007 WK CRD: DD @ 27mpg, tuned by Keith at GDE
1997 100" TJ: Cummins/NSG370/TeraNomore/37's and leaf springs - Gone!
Lil Green Bean build thread
2008 Rubi Unlimited: Gone!
Smashin' Punkin - 06 Rubi LJ, Cummins QSB3.3, work in progress
IndyORV
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post #21 of 178 Old 11-21-2011, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
Red_Smoke
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1997 TJ Wrangler 
 
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Hardest part of fab work is making both sides look the same. 88 cents at walmart, and voila, you have a reversible template






And now begins the powertrain swap:



2007 WK CRD: DD @ 27mpg, tuned by Keith at GDE
1997 100" TJ: Cummins/NSG370/TeraNomore/37's and leaf springs - Gone!
Lil Green Bean build thread
2008 Rubi Unlimited: Gone!
Smashin' Punkin - 06 Rubi LJ, Cummins QSB3.3, work in progress
IndyORV
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post #22 of 178 Old 11-21-2011, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
Red_Smoke
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Here's my first stab at motor mounts. Not sure I like them - a little too low with only four inches of uptravel between the UCA and the lower motor mount. Gonna do a Rev B maybe next week.




In between engine mounting stuff, I went back to the Genright Highline fenders. Just could wait to cut into that hood! unk:



2007 WK CRD: DD @ 27mpg, tuned by Keith at GDE
1997 100" TJ: Cummins/NSG370/TeraNomore/37's and leaf springs - Gone!
Lil Green Bean build thread
2008 Rubi Unlimited: Gone!
Smashin' Punkin - 06 Rubi LJ, Cummins QSB3.3, work in progress
IndyORV
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post #23 of 178 Old 11-21-2011, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
Red_Smoke
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I only used the sawzall for the double layered portions at the front and rear of the hood. For the rest I used this body saw - doesn't heat up the paint, and a little more refined.


And here's the long awaited moment...


I can't get over the clearance with 37's and a 2" budget boost! Only thing to keep in mind is the front is lacking 567lbs of engine. Have to do quite a bit of clean-up on the cut and even everything out, then back to mounts.

2007 WK CRD: DD @ 27mpg, tuned by Keith at GDE
1997 100" TJ: Cummins/NSG370/TeraNomore/37's and leaf springs - Gone!
Lil Green Bean build thread
2008 Rubi Unlimited: Gone!
Smashin' Punkin - 06 Rubi LJ, Cummins QSB3.3, work in progress
IndyORV
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post #24 of 178 Old 11-21-2011, 02:22 PM
jeep0312
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Location: palm coast, fl
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Im liking it

-Travis-
2004 Chevy Malibu, red, 2.2 ecotec, shiny wheels, loud stereo
2000 Suzuki SV650N, V-twin, Yoshimura Exhaust, Custom Rashed Paint Job...
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post #25 of 178 Old 11-21-2011, 02:25 PM
teamgreen666
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that looks great nice job so far..
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post #26 of 178 Old 11-21-2011, 04:05 PM
Billy
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coming along nicely. very good!

Everyone IS out to get you, if you just believe in yourself and try hard enough!
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post #27 of 178 Old 12-04-2011, 12:42 PM
mcannon111
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okay setting up shackle angles is the part that is giving me the absolute most trouble on figuring it out online.

okay first of all is the shackle angle represented by alpha or beta? and yeah i know that shackle angle is awful but it was easy to draw on


also when you are setting up your shackle angles without weight on it, how much do you plan on the shackle angle to change after you place weight on it? or maybe should i just ask what is the process of how to set up shackle angles?

edit: i think you should post a picture of how it sits now at the top so people don't think you're building it right now

no doors, no top, no problems

live in sc? join OffroadSC.com

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post #28 of 178 Old 12-05-2011, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
Red_Smoke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcannon111 View Post
okay setting up shackle angles is the part that is giving me the absolute most trouble on figuring it out online.

okay first of all is the shackle angle represented by alpha or beta? and yeah i know that shackle angle is awful but it was easy to draw on

also when you are setting up your shackle angles without weight on it, how much do you plan on the shackle angle to change after you place weight on it? or maybe should i just ask what is the process of how to set up shackle angles?

edit: i think you should post a picture of how it sits now at the top so people don't think you're building it right now
Actually it's neither Alpha nor Beta in your pic The shackle angle is the imaginary line directly thru the shackle hanger bolt and the leaf spring bolt. So in your picture, it's probably a 15-20deg angle off vertical. For setting up the suspension, unless you know the leaf spring rate and have a good idea of the weight distribution F/R, you're going to have a hard time estimating the shackle angle at ride height using an unloaded spring. You can search the 'net for eye-to-eye measurements under load, or take a look at kyle_craig's build thread. He just posted his measurements from the rear leaf conversion.

How we've done it on a couple TJ's thus far... BTF crossmember in place, shackle length determined and mocked up, leaf spring attached to front frame bracket and place it on the frame rail with the shackle at a 0deg (vertical) and either tack the hanger on, or put a good c-clamp on there. Now put a jack stand under the axle center pin on the spring and slowly load spring to get an idea of your compression and approximate shackle angle. Obviously this is much more accurate if you can do both springs at the same time and actually get the weight of the vehicle, but you can approximate it one side at a time. Once you're happy with the angles, do some X measurements to make sure the axle is true to the frame and burn in the front hangers.

2007 WK CRD: DD @ 27mpg, tuned by Keith at GDE
1997 100" TJ: Cummins/NSG370/TeraNomore/37's and leaf springs - Gone!
Lil Green Bean build thread
2008 Rubi Unlimited: Gone!
Smashin' Punkin - 06 Rubi LJ, Cummins QSB3.3, work in progress
IndyORV
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post #29 of 178 Old 12-05-2011, 10:47 AM
mcannon111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red_Smoke View Post
Actually it's neither Alpha nor Beta in your pic The shackle angle is the imaginary line directly thru the shackle hanger bolt and the leaf spring bolt. So in your picture, it's probably a 15-20deg angle off vertical. For setting up the suspension, unless you know the leaf spring rate and have a good idea of the weight distribution F/R, you're going to have a hard time estimating the shackle angle at ride height using an unloaded spring. You can search the 'net for eye-to-eye measurements under load, or take a look at kyle_craig's build thread. He just posted his measurements from the rear leaf conversion.

How we've done it on a couple TJ's thus far... BTF crossmember in place, shackle length determined and mocked up, leaf spring attached to front frame bracket and place it on the frame rail with the shackle at a 0deg (vertical) and either tack the hanger on, or put a good c-clamp on there. Now put a jack stand under the axle center pin on the spring and slowly load spring to get an idea of your compression and approximate shackle angle. Obviously this is much more accurate if you can do both springs at the same time and actually get the weight of the vehicle, but you can approximate it one side at a time. Once you're happy with the angles, do some X measurements to make sure the axle is true to the frame and burn in the front hangers.
alright so if that alpha line would have gone from the leaf spring bolt to the hanger bolt, and the other side vertical it would have been correct??

and yeah i follow his build pretty closely haha, but he said they are 51.5 from eye to eye, and from hanger to hanger its 48.25. so i'm guessing you would start out almost vertical, say , to get it to sit on its own weight at 30 with the stock xj w/ extra main leaf? cause didn't after you tuned it for a while end up with a 30 degree shackle angle?

some more questions which shocks were you running in the rear when you ran a 45 degree angle?? and which ones are you running now??

did you loose any travel when you changed from 45 to 30? i know you said that the 30 provided more up travel but did you have to limit it, and did that limitation lead to less overall travel?

no doors, no top, no problems

live in sc? join OffroadSC.com

The Silver Bullet
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post #30 of 178 Old 12-05-2011, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
Red_Smoke
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcannon111 View Post
alright so if that alpha line would have gone from the leaf spring bolt to the hanger bolt, and the other side vertical it would have been correct???
Yep, you got it

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcannon111 View Post
and yeah i follow his build pretty closely haha, but he said they are 51.5 from eye to eye, and from hanger to hanger its 48.25. so i'm guessing you would start out almost vertical, say , to get it to sit on its own weight at 30 with the stock xj w/ extra main leaf? cause didn't after you tuned it for a while end up with a 30 degree shackle angle??
Yep, tried 45 which was very soft, but also tended to invert the leaf springs too easily. Granted, I still invert the springs at full bump, but the 30 shackle angle gives a higher effective rate at ride height and in normal travel range.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcannon111 View Post
some more questions which shocks were you running in the rear when you ran a 45 degree angle?? and which ones are you running now??

did you loose any travel when you changed from 45 to 30? i know you said that the 30 provided more up travel but did you have to limit it, and did that limitation lead to less overall travel?
I've always run 12" bilstein 5125 shocks with the 255/70 valving. My initial travel measurements were around 5.5" up and 5.5" down with the 45 angle. Now with a steeper 30 angle, I have more like 7" up and 4" down. It makes perfect sense if you envision your shackle as having an ≈90 arc of suspension travel - 90 being full bump and vertical (or in most cases just past) being full extension. Where you place shackle angle at ride height will determine your up/down travel. Now if you want more travel altogether, that's where shackle length and leaf spring length comes into play. I wouldn't recommend anything over a 1" YJ lift shackle though.

2007 WK CRD: DD @ 27mpg, tuned by Keith at GDE
1997 100" TJ: Cummins/NSG370/TeraNomore/37's and leaf springs - Gone!
Lil Green Bean build thread
2008 Rubi Unlimited: Gone!
Smashin' Punkin - 06 Rubi LJ, Cummins QSB3.3, work in progress
IndyORV
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