Lifting my 95 YJ - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 09:15 PM
lutzke21
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I have the "hack n' tap" style SYE from RE, I've had no problems with it in the last ~10 years. Cheaper than some methods. Got the CV DS from RE as well.


-Scott

'94 YJ on 35s

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post #32 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 11:10 PM Thread Starter
ziloh22
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Another thing I want to add is that when I go to take off from 0mph. I get a little shimmy vibration as well. When j bought the jeep the rear track bar mount was cut off. Seems like they put a new exhaust on it and removed the track bar for that reason. Maybe this could also be causing some vibration issues if the rear sways a bit. I was going try and get a new one and mock up some new brackets.

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post #33 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 11:22 PM
Anticanman
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The rear track bar doesn't locate the rear axle, the leaf springs do. Track bars on yj's are useless in stock form and can actually cause problems when you change suspension components like a lift.

Have you checked your ujoints?

I had a bit of a shimmy too until I switched to a cv shaft and SYE. Then it went away. You might be too tall for a TC drop.

Luck Favours The Prepared
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post #34 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 11:35 PM Thread Starter
ziloh22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anticanman View Post
The rear track bar doesn't locate the rear axle, the leaf springs do. Track bars on yj's are useless in stock form and can actually cause problems when you change suspension components like a lift.

Have you checked your ujoints?

I had a bit of a shimmy too until I switched to a cv shaft and SYE. Then it went away. You might be too tall for a TC drop.
I did hear rumors of that as well, But yes I think the sye is my smartest option. I'll run it a bit then get the parts I need and eventually do it. The tc has been leaking way more than normal so it's def an issue

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post #35 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 11:44 PM
Anticanman
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With vibrations at hand, the "sooner" option doesn't cause more problems later. Ask me how I know.

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post #36 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 11:49 PM Thread Starter
ziloh22
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Def agree w you there. Tell me how....

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post #37 of 245 Old 04-14-2012, 11:55 PM
Anticanman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziloh22 View Post
Def agree w you there. Tell me how....
Vibration started in the driveshaft because my angles were so far off and it eventually ate my pinion bearing and ate up the seal on the transfer case output shaft. I suspect it had something to do with weakening the transmission torque arm because that broke last week and threw my now cv shaft out off alignment and blew the cv joint in between the ujoints. It's come full circle.

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post #38 of 245 Old 04-15-2012, 07:58 PM
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Did you get the TJ flares yet?

87 YJ, 4.0L, 5speed......sold, 05 LJ Rubicon
"It'll buff out"
"If it moves and shouldn't, use Duct Tape & Zip Ties. If it doesn't move and should, use WD-40 & A hammer"
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post #39 of 245 Old 04-15-2012, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
ziloh22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtRider1357 View Post
Did you get the TJ flares yet?
Yea I have em just didn't get to them yet

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post #40 of 245 Old 04-15-2012, 09:03 PM Thread Starter
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Took a ride to the beach today. Nothing fell off or apart yet so were good lol.
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post #41 of 245 Old 05-13-2012, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
ziloh22
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Added another set of Hellas to the jeep. Mounted on the windshield. Gotta put on my tj flares I got soon too. Coming along. Just bought a house so things are slowing down a bit haha
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post #42 of 245 Old 05-13-2012, 09:10 PM
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Jeep looks great, cant wait to get a job so I can ditch the 3in BL a add a 4in suspension lift. keep up the good work
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post #43 of 245 Old 06-13-2012, 11:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockWoRM

THIS is why most of try to tell/warn guys that there is more to lifting a YJ than just the lift. An SYE/CV is the correct way to go, but there is another possible cheaper route you can take. Since you've already done the TC drop, 2 other things you can do.
1. check to make sure your shims (assuming RC included shims) are giving proper pinion angles. standard dline output/pinions need to be in parallel.
2. instal a 1" mm lift. this will tilt the TC output down a little and help the angle and 'might' let the slip move in a little. (but I doubt it would be much if any at all)

Aside from the above, you'll likely be going thru ujoints on a regular basis. Not to mention you now have an increased chance of dropping your dline if you over flex.
This is why an SYE is a better solution.

btw... the SRS has nothing to do with your dline problems. and I'm also not sure why you want to get rid of it. now that you're almost done, drive it a bit and see how it works out. if you have no bump steer and it steers ok, then why change it? it looks to be one of the kits quadtech used to sell... or still may sell. not completely sure. but they got good reviews IIRC.

WRM
What is a sye again??

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post #44 of 245 Old 06-13-2012, 11:51 PM
Pru-J
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziloh22
Some progress. 33x12.5 duratracs. Love the way they ride. They're not loud and they ride smooth.
Explain a reversal shackle?? I've never heard of that.. An did you have to change anything up by adding the shackles? I have a 4 in. On mine currently. Thinking about doing a 1in. Shackle lift to clear the tires when flexing.. I'll post pics below. Your looks like it sits up noticeably higher then mine
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post #45 of 245 Old 06-14-2012, 10:54 AM
ldso
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Have you put new u-joints in the rear driveshaft? They are probably 17 years old and might solve your problem.

My RC 4" lift settled almost 2" after a year of DD and wheeling, and then the driveline angle with the TC drop was pretty much back to stock.

Wish mine was a Sahara, nice YJ bud

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Actually, it's pronounced "mill-e-wah-que" which is Algonquin for "the good land."
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